A 2nd on the recommendation of Novus by wolf_garcia. I've been using it on vintage drums---both natural wood and plastic-wrapped finishes---for a quarter century.
I guess when you go away for extended periods while in Europe or you're Mountain lodge or when you're at your Beach house, this would be a good idea. I think the fabric covering it up may rub against it unless you design a special enclosure to avoid contact. Practically speaking I'm not sure this works for me.
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+1 @yyzsantabarbaraCover-up is probably the best way to keep dust and moisture out. If you maintain a good habbit covering the speakers up you will find the huge difference after a few years' use. |
Certainly, cleaning glossy speaker cabinets requires a delicate touch to prevent scratching or damaging the finish. Here's a recommended method: Materials Needed:
Steps:
Remember, the key is to be gentle and cautious while cleaning to avoid any scratching or damage to the glossy finish. Always test any cleaning solution on an inconspicuous area first, and if you're unsure, it might be a good idea to consult the speaker manufacturer's recommendations for cleaning and maintenance. |
Novus #1. Been using this amazing stuff for years since it was recommended to me by Pat DiBurro, the amazing "right coast" luthier and brilliant guitar repairman, and he got the idea from the late Bill Collings of Collings Guitars when he was hanging out at their shop years ago. I use it mostly on my acoustic guitars and my motorcycle helmet face shield. Higher quality guitar finishes are often nitrocellulose (my faves are anyway) which is a pretty finicky and often a very thin finish so this stuff will work well on glossy speakers regardless of what the finish is. If there’s something better out there I haven’t heard of it. For scratches Novus makes grittier stuff you can use in stages with #1 being the final gloss polish. Don’t use car stuff...ever...sandpaper...really? |
Lot’s of good and also silly suggestions here...a few suggestions and corrections if you will...
Most importantly, learn to ignore the imperfections. |
@ghdprentice Where do you think it got the answer? I will stick to Maguire's detailing products. |
OP,
Great question. Here is what ChatGPT says:
To clean the glossy finish on speakers, use a soft microfiber cloth to gently wipe away dust and fingerprints. You can dampen the cloth slightly with water if needed, but avoid using harsh chemicals that could damage the finish. If there are stubborn smudges, try using a small amount of mild soap diluted in water. Remember to dry the surface thoroughly afterward. |
Use a high quality car wax. For light swirls and scratches, use the same methodology as for car detailing. FWIW, I also use car wax on all my guitars to protect them from skin oils and acids. It works on tools, on my Weber grills, especially in Hawaii, where corrosion will rot anything not protected. |
I like the car detailing spray idea. Also a swiffer duster is really good to have. What an incredible invention this was and how stupidly simple it is. No one mentions use of distilled water, which is a lot better to use versus tap water. Amazing answers herein. A Clean microfiber cloth is probably a good idea. Glossy finishes on speakers can be pretty damn incredible. I think polishing glossy surfaces is probably not a good idea. Cars you need it because it protects against all the Dust and air flow. |
Since most "glossy" speakers use a high quality automotive finishes, the same rules would apply. As one poster suggested, a "quick detailer" and microfiber cloth should do the trick for general maintenance. Just be careful of overspray. Your raw drivers won’t appreciate being sprayed with contaminants. If your speakers have a little age on them (3+ years) the finish might have gotten a little lazy or neglected and may need some attention. My general rule on this is to take a clean microfiber cloth and move it about the surface. If it doesn’t move effortlessly, then the material made need a little motiviation to deliver its orignal shine. IF the surface is nearly perfect. a good automotive wax is a good starting point. If you see some swirl marks, or light scratches, then you may need to take it to the next level(s) Mequiar’s "Ultimate Compound" is slightly more aggressive than wax, cleans better and will "remove" some slight scratches and/or swirl marks. I use the term "remove" in parenthesis because you are not actually removing those scratches. The compound comes in contact with the indented surfaces and "polishes" them to a degree that they don’t draw as much attention to themselves. I also use this material on turntable dustcovers. Works great for me. If you really want to get after it, "glaze" takes it another level, with a slightly more aggressive material than the compound mentioned above. You can get "hand" or "machine" glaze depending on how big a surface you’re working with. This will remove small surfaces scratches and swirl marks, but be prepared to devote a little work to get there. Actual "scratches" are a different critter. In this case material is missing (gouged out). Minor scratches (with solid color throuout the scratch) can be helped with the compound or glaze mentioned above, concentrating on the scratch itself. You won’t remove the scratch. It will just be less noticable. Deep scratches will require that the damage be repaired. A good technique is similar to taking "rock bites" out of cars. Find the matching paint. Fill in the scratch with the paint with brush or q-tip not paying much attention to how it looks at this point. The idea is to build up the material in the void so that it will be higher than the other surfaces. Then sand it down even with the other surfaces. and polish. It may take several layers of paint to to this. Don’t try to fill in deep scratches with one coat. Solid colors are easy. Metallcs, no so much. Shine on (you crazy diamonds) |
All of the Automotive Quick Detailers work. What I have done on my Vienna Acoustics piano black finish was wipe them with a NEW Microfiber cloth that has been damped. Then applied automotive glaze wax in them and polished them. There were swirls when I got them so I actually did a little paint correction on them with a Dual action polisher first (very carefully) and they turned out really really nice. |
I use a swifter on my black Rockport Cygnus (lots of surface area) to remove all dust, spray on McGuires high gloss Quick Detailer, then use a new microfiber cloth very lightly. Micro fiber towels are now pretty cheap, so I only use them once on my speakers. Had a memeber buy my Wilson Sasha 2s that were also black and he was shocked that I had no mirco scratches. This process has worked great for me, and it's all available at Wallmart. |
I would think caring for a Steinway piano would be the same for your speakers. 😊
https://www.steinway.com/news/features/utilty/cleaning-your-piano |
Use a swifter and never touch it. Almost any cloth will have dust embedded in it and will cause micro scratches… dulling the finish. If you had accidentally touched it, then use a brand new / perfectly clean fluffy micro fiber closet with a small mist of water on the cloth.
Once clean, don’t touch and dust with a swifter.
It most beautiful finished items I owned are my Sonus Faber Amati in red violin… they are simple mesmerizing to look at. I want to do nothing to take away from the finish. |
I do not know the answer to your question but I have some very glossy black speakers from Yamaha (same finish as their pianos). I am looking for best way to clean them my self. One thing I did for both a dust and safety issue was to get a cover for them. YAMAHA NS-5000 Dust Cover (digitaldeckcovers.com)
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