Surge protector

You sure it’s not the fuse that needs to be replaced?

^^^^^^^^^

This, exactly this.  It isn't just the repair cost, it's the lifting and shipping.  An amp/ speaker that's blown sounds a lot worse than one plugged into a surge protector.

I wrote about this here:

 It knocked out the sub woofer components of my GoldenEar Triton one speakers. In my ignorance I had them plugged into the wall rather than a surge protector. 

OP:  was everything else plugged into a surge protector, or was everything plugged into the wall and the sub components of your speakers were all that got knocked out?

Will your home owners cover any of this?

@erik_squires  , forgive me if I am missing something really obvious, but I will preface my question with the excuse that I am, at this point in my life, more than half blind, and not only that, my reading comprehension is getting worse as I age; but from your blog:

Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra

 

This is what I use everywhere except the audio/home theater or where I have a UPS. 

 

Best for Audio and Home Theater

Furman makes dozens of models of power strips and surge suppressors but the feature mix that are must haves are LiFT and SMP.  LiFT will reduce noise on the line and SMP is a hybrid series mode surge suppression.   In addition they have models for everything with features like remote triggers, voltage regulation, balanced outputs, coaxial surge suppression, separate filter banks, the list goes on!

 

Furman with LiFT and SMP

 

Furman seems to have discontinued the more affordable LiFT/SMP strips so I can no longer recommend them for general use.  If you don't need any of the advanced features beyond surge and noise suppression you should get a Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra instead for the price. 

What is the "UPS" you mentioned?

And I did go to the Furman link you provided and I saw a PL8C that did say it had SMP and LiFT for $255.  Would that be what I'd be looking for as related to protection for an audio system?

Uninterruptable Power Source/Supply (U.P.S.).

I ALWAYS unplug everything as soon as I hear thunder.

@dweller  , I actually turn the dedicated circuit breaker off for my system because it is easier to access than my outlets, but something nasty could always sneak up when one was out of the house or asleep.

Hi OP: I meant to say that I use a Trip Lite everywhere except my PC because I have an Uninterruptable Power Supply.

Because Furman makes so many products it’s important to note whether they have SMP (Series Mode Protection) and LiFT (Linear Filtering). These are the two features to look out for surge protection but there are more expensive models with features like switched outlets, voltage regulation and power factor correction.

The PST-8 is around $200 and has both SMP and LiFT.

According to the latest Wirecutter testing they provide the lowest let-through voltage of any surge protector they tested, which included ZeroSurge.

@dweller ’s approach is good but here in SC I’m not always home when thunder rolls by. I absolutely turn the breaker off when the thunder gets close, but that’s probably only about 30% of the time there have been storms around my home.

@erik_squires  , so to clarify from this quote below:

Hi OP: I meant to say that I use a Trip Lite everywhere except my PC because I have an Uninterruptable Power Supply.

Because Furman makes so many products it’s important to note whether they have SMP (Series Mode Protection) and LiFT (Linear Filtering). These are the two features to look out for surge protection but there are more expensive models with features like switched outlets, voltage regulation and power factor correction.

The PST-8 is around $200 and has both SMP and LiFT.

you suggest the PST-8 for audio if one does NOT have UPS?  (Sorry if I am beating you over the head with this question, but I will just have to defer to my previous comment regarding my diminishing reading comprehension skills.)

@immatthewj - I was speaking to how I protect all the different devices in my home that are considered sensitive. Not all have the same needs.

For my stereo and home theater I use Furman. In terms of just surge protection and AC noise filtering I trust Furman more than anything else in my home, that’s why the most expensive gear I own is on Furman protectors. I also trust Tripp Lite for some things and for my PC I trust APC as being reliable enough.  My subwoofer is an exception because it's not located in a place convenient to the Furman. The sub is on a Tripp Lite.

For most other devices I use Tripp Lite except in the case of my Wifi router and PC when I use a UPS and rely on it’s built in surge protection. I use a UPS on my wifi router to keep my internet up even when the power goes out.

The only devices I have on a UPS are those I need to keep working even when the power goes out. I often work remotely, and power does go out here multiple times a year so my PC and my Internet have to last me at least through a video conference call. On the other hand, I really don’t need my stereo to be guaranteed to stay up through a typical blackout.

PS - I also have a whole house surge protector which protects the dozens of directly attached devices like my fire alarms, wifi enabled light switches, and GFCI outlets. They all have a rather high clamping voltage (~ 400 V/leg or higher) so they are no substitute when it comes to PC’s and stereo gear.  Furman clamps around 160V.  See the Wirecutter reviews for more specifics.

As I type this we have a strong but narrow thunderstorm moving through the area and yes, I’ve turned off the stereo and HT but I’m still online, allegedly working and studying. 😀 

Besides lightning we've lost 3 transformers nearby over the last two years for non weather related issues.  So, sure tell me all you want  to about how macho it is to run your amps straight into the wall, I don't care.  😀

I ordered this right after the incident.  It’s already been shipped:

Pangea Audio Octet Premier - 8 Outlet Power Center 20 Amp Outlet
 

I have an Isotech unit for my amps and a few other devices.

OP:

That is not a surge protector.  It's a very expensive power strip.  There's zero protection there.   Read the description carefully.  It doesn't even have a breaker or fuse.

Best,

Erik

@rvpiano  , will your homeowners cover some of the cost?  And were the damaged components all that was plugged straight into the wall?

@erik_squires 

Thank you very much for the info.  What would you suggest I use as a surge protector?

@immatthewj 

Hopefully the electric company will pay something. I’m going to fill out a claim form. I’ll also check out the homeowner policy.

As Dweller said, unplug everything first sign of thunder.  

I am a ham also, and I unplug my antenna and throw the coax out the window if I see any lightning on the radar.  

Have to cut my listening short sometimes, but I doubt any surge suppressor will protect your gear from a direct strike.

I live in N. Florida and summer afternoons can be miserable.

Be safe.  -Jim

I have a lot of free time on my hands and I try to stay on top of the weather and when there's any hint of thunderstorms in the area I flip the system circuit breaker (used to be three but I am now all on one) off.  I am thinking maybe I'll start turning it off after every session.  I also think I'll pick up a surge protecter for that circuit.

@erik_squires 

Thank you very much for the info.  What would you suggest I use as a surge protector?

@rvpiano  , this is what   @erik_squires  told me up above in this thread:

Because Furman makes so many products it’s important to note whether they have SMP (Series Mode Protection) and LiFT (Linear Filtering). These are the two features to look out for surge protection but there are more expensive models with features like switched outlets, voltage regulation and power factor correction.

The PST-8 is around $200 and has both SMP and LiFT.

@tvad I encourage you to read the Wirecutter reviews, which goes deep into how they tested and why Furman with SMP beat Brickwall. They also mention a number of other makers who have outstanding surge protection to what was common 20 years ago.

The actual surge performance, plus features and relative price makes it really hard for me to recommend Brickwall or ZeroSurge instead.

I won't argue that Brickwall, or Furman have lower clamping voltages than the whole house units however and that having a whole house unit won't protect the most sensitive devices.

@rvpiano If you find a true surge suppressor, make sure to determine if it is A. Resettable or B. Sacrificial. A sacrificial model may self-destruct in the act of saving your equipment. This may become expensive. 

@dweller, none of the Furman’s with SMP are sacrificial though they do include an MOV for a rare edge- case surge. It almost never has a part to play in the surge protection.

Arguably the Zerosurge/Brickwall units are completely not sacrificial, but they also let more voltage through and have one wierd case they don’t cover. I talked to an engineer at length about this, and I’m afraid I forgot the full explanation. SMP, he argued, is a series mode protection with lots of similarities to Brickwall / Zerosurge PLUS an MOV just in case. So long as the SMP does it’s job the MOV never activates.

Bottom line is after the discussions I had PLUS the Wirecutter testing consider the Furman as reliable if not more, and more cost effective.

If you own a Brickwall or Zerosurge already it's an excellent choice and will give you many years of service.  It is only those users who are shopping new that should consider the alternatives.

@rvpiano - Might consider doing 2 things, having whole home surge protection installed at your panel; and also getting non-sacrificial surge protection to plug the equipment into. I use ZeroSurge. I haven’t had any degradation for whatever reason(s) using one in both of my systems , and also with my main TV. And, they aren’t unreasonably expensive $290 for 8 outlets.  I had a Furman, don’t recall the model it cost $150 or so when I purchased it, it went wonky after a while and ruined a 55 inch tv

You absolutely should have one at your breaker box , if you want something very good on a dedicated circuit then go to VH audio great for audio .

if you just want one for the whole house still have installed at the. Breaker box 

Siemens make very good ones for under $250 on Amazon I have one 

plus the top model around $1k from VH Audio , for my dedicated Audio circuit 

and I believe it has power wave form correction ,I have to lookfor the paperwork 

it works excellent the sound sounds improved day or night .

Why don't you just take the amp boards out of the speakers and take them to be repaired? It's probably just a few screws and a couple connectors, and they probably weigh under 10 lbs, not that hard to do. 

Power conditioning your stereo is never a bad idea. But absolutely install a whole house surge protector in your panel. In addition to your stereo. Your TVs, refrigerators, stove, washer, dryer and everything else electric are all at risk, not only of failure but also fire. 

I have an Isotech unit for my amps and a few other devices.

I missed that post, @rvpiano  , I guess it must have worked okay.

Really sorry to hear that. Good luck with the repairs.

I have alot of power filters surge protectors our power went out 5 times saturday.i might lose some sound qualitybut have not lost expensive equipment.furman has been good to me among others but best bang for the buck.enjoy the music

One of the benefits of the PSM136 is 

“…Massive 9,000 Amps Repetitive Rating, three-dimensional, non-sacrificial voltage surge protection…”

All sources, pre/power amps, and DAC are on the Puritan… my subs, which are not in the front, each have one of these on the wall:  

i got my puritan here: 

. Nice 45 day at home trial.  

Does your main breaker panel have a surge protector?(It should.) If you are going to spend money on a surge protector, start there. And while your subwoofer might seem worth protecting, so are the boards in your washing machine, air conditioner, air handler, computers, refrigerator and cooktop.

A surge protector will help for certain power surges. A lightning strike will likely overspeed a typical surge protector (I recall one strike at an apartment I lived in in Florida, at about 6:00 am or so on awakening, I saw a spark come from my climate control box and travel to the center of my living room carpet at the instant of the thunder, it wiped out an electronic phone I had at the time.)

I have been using a SurgeX SEQ for surge protection and sequencing. So far no problems.

I use a whole home surge protector,Siemens. They are relatively easy to install at the breaker box and around $200. Also good power conditioners offer a level of surge protection as well.

How did you diagnose the power surge? you don't seen to be a tech guy (not criticizing).  

I use Furman on all of my stereo equipment which makes me feel as comfortable as I can. Plugging equipment directly into the wall is a disaster waiting to happen and a very expensive one too I might add.

Consider hiring a licenced electrician to install a whole-house surge protector unit into your electrical panel itself. 
Far superior solution and problem solved. 

@immatthewj What does switching off the breakers do. Don't you want them on so they offer protection by tripping?

If you switch them off, don't you lose their protection and allow current to flow through without impediment? 

MOV's should be avoided with stereo equipment. They clip/limit full transient peaks. I sold my Richard Gray because of MOV's. 

Something like this will do the trick:

I have the 20 amp version myself. 
 

Are you sure there is no fuse? my plinius was a victim of power surge.Originally I thought there are only 2fuse near the IEC . To find out there are 4 more inside. OP try opening it maybe it is just a fuse, it will save you all the money and headache. Only if you are confident enough and safe for you.

I have always used BackUps brand uninterruptable power supplies with built in surge protection.  ANYTHING plugged into them is guaranteed to I believe 20 grand. If not 20, then it's  more. Do they work? Never had an issue except replacing their batteries every few years, which is to be expected. They protect against surges, brown outs and blackouts. This all makes your stuff last much longer. I have a CRT TV that's been plugged into a BackUps since it was new. Still works as good as the day I bought it and it's 24 years old. 

@rvpiano said:

This morning we had a power surge. First one I ever experienced.

@rvpiano Said:

Hopefully the electric company will pay something. I’m going to fill out a claim form. I’ll also check out the homeowner policy.

Sounds like lightning was not involved. Surge was caused by the Power Company’s equipment. An SPD, in most cases, will protect from a utility transient spike.

An SPD (Surge Protection Device) will not protect from an over voltage surge that lasts more than a few microseconds to a few milliseconds. They are not designed to.

Video, Eaton- Surge Protection

Video, Leviton Whole House Surge Protection.

.

How surge protectors work.

Eaton Power Surge Protectors Explained.

.

The foundation for a good SPD to do its’ job as designed is a low resistance electrical service Grounding Electrode System. Therein a low resistance electrical service connection to Mother Earth. IEEE recommends 5 ohms or less.

FYI:

Before you buy a Whole House Type 2 SPD that connects to the main electrical service panel, and or electrical sub panel, read the manufacturer’s warranty fine print.

Many say must be purchased from an authorized dealer.

Must be installed by a Licensed Electrician.

Home owner must file an insurance claim with their home owner’s insurance company first. SPD manufacture pays the remainder, if any, up to the warranty specified limit.

I absolutely believe in whole house surge suppression, however I also know that they are not enough, so I have to reply when I read:

Far superior solution and problem solved. 

The issue is clamping voltage and speed.  Whole house suppressors let much more voltage than the best surge strips.  They are meant to save your house wiring as much as your major appliances.  I know from experience of losing a laptop that they don't do very well for sensitive electronics.

I want to point out something about the old Tripp Lite Isobar units.  I have at least 3 of them running around my home.  The one feature they lack is that they don't turn off when protection is spent, but the newer Tripp Lite models often do.

Check the Wirecutter article quoted above for specifics because it's one feature they list.

@rvpiano 

What Isotech unit do you have attached to your amps? I’m guessing it tripped and saved them?

Sorry for your loss.

Here I am In total silence due to my own neglect of a surge protector tho I have read Squire's missive numerous times. So very timely topic. Now I am waiting for my little unit to be repaired - Shipping $112, Flat fee repair $250- Peachtree- I have purchased two 8 outlet Tripps from Amazon at $72.08 each for future use. Squires you do good work. While waiting I shopped for a backup unit and upgrades and spent another $1000. Oh well my bad. Thanks for listening and get the Surge protector even if you think you don't have that much to protect.--BEST JS

A couple of years ago we had a power surge from a storm. Everything that was plugged into a AQ Niagara conditioner(s) were fine. However, 2 rear JL subs were plugged directly into the wall was damaged. BTW, the front JL subs that were plugged into a Niagara 1200 were unharmed.

So, today all of my equipment, including all 4 subs are plugged into Niagara power conditioner.

BTW, I do have a whole house surge protector, but they do not protect against high/low voltage.

ozzy

I see a lot of recommendations for whole house surge protectors, but most of the talk is directed at the Type 2 unit that is easily installed at the panel.  My understanding is these units give you protection against a surge generated within the house.  All those little surges that dim the lights when an appliance turns on etc., but will give very little in the way of protection against a large surge from an external source such as Lightning strike or a local transformer blowing.  For this you really need a Type 1 protector that is installed at the meter.  It's a complicated issue and I think many of us may not have the protection we think we have.  IMHO.  Cheers. 

@ozzy  I read, I think, that the engineer who did the Furman SMP/LiFT tech went to work at Audioquest.  Maybe I'm mistaken?