All Shunyata protectors are non current limiting. I have 3 Shunyata Hydras in my main system, one of them has a McIntosh humongous 300 wpc amp plugged into it.
Better to get a whole house surge protector that connects directly to your breaker box. This will avoid the protector from being in series with your components’ power line.
My bad, I get what you’re saying now. You need a power strip with surge protection. Many good ones out there, Brickwall comes to mind. I have a Furman that works just fine but I will defer to others on that request.
The Isotek products are not supposed to limit current, but it probably depends on your power amp’s current draw. I have the Aquarius V5, with a low powered tube amp plugged in and it seems to be ok. I think if you check with a dealer like Upscale or TMR, they can advise you on the compatibility of the power strip with your particular amplifier.
I installed a whole house surge protection and it was worth every penny. It is not nearly as expensive as people think and we installed the Siemens system.
@atanarjuat99Very cool, about the same cost in the US. Here in Texas it cost $160 for the device and $100 to install, have a friend that is a master electrician, took him less than 30 minuets to install. Installed one on the pool equipment also (separate box.)
I installed a whole house surge protection and it was worth every penny. It is not nearly as expensive as people think and we installed the Siemens system.
A Type 2 SPD is the first line of defense against transient surges. Be it a near by lightning strike or a piece of equipment or appliance in the home that sends a high voltage transient surge/spike back on the branch circuit wiring to the electrical panel it is fed from. Hopefully the Type 2 SPD eliminates the high voltage transient surge/spike. In most cases it will. (Providing a good UL Listed 1449 3rd Edition SPD was purchased and installed properly by a licensed Electrician.
The Type 3, point of use, SPD will hopefully protect equipment plugged into it that the SPD at the electrical panel may not have. If the home owner does not have a Whole House Type 2 SPD at the main electrical panel, it’s a crap shoot if a user thinks a Type 3 point of use will protect his equipment. It’s not designed to as a stand alone SPD.
FYI, the branch circuit wiring from the main electrical service panel to the wall outlet the Type 3 SPD plugs into, must be at least 30ft in length for a Type 3 SPD to protect its’ connected load.
What is the difference between a thermal/magnetic and a mag only breaker?
What is the different between a thermal/mag breaker and a mag only motor circuit protector?
Product Line:
Molded Case Circuit Breakers
Resolution:
The thermal/mag has both thermal (for overload trip) and magnetic (for inrush/instantaneous trip) elements. This is used primarily for conductor protection. The mag only does not have thermal protection and is mainly used for motor protection.
SUMMARY
Thermal magnetic breakers are affected by ambient temperature
and are best used in applications where temperatures do not fluctuate
far from the reference ambient temperatures for circuit breakers,
25°C (77°F) and 40°C (104°F).
.
SUMMARY
Hydraulic magnetic circuit breakers are best used in harsh
environments where temperatures can vary widely.
Tripplite 1800w power conditioner. I have a Furman power strip with RFI filtering ahead of it. The power conditioner also has added RFI filtering, plus voltage regulation for high or low voltage which will stress electrical components. I have great experience with this setup.
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