Sounds like you've graduated from the Primaluna budget. Go for the Dartzeel.
Selling off Tubes for Solid State, A Cooler Love Story?
I've always sought out Primaluna gear as my end all be all gear. I started with an integrated, then went to separates and have been very, very happy. What has given me such good sound, is also causing the room temperature to be somewhat annoying. Being in a little shoe box room of 10x15, I've had to result to opening a window, which is becoming tiresome.
The heat from just the KT88's is causing me to considering going solid state, which will be in preparation for the Summer in my tiny upstairs room. I'd like to possibly get a second amp for the summer months, but am not sure where to start with solid state amps. Do I pick up a BHK? Do I go all in on a used Ypsilon or Dartzeel? What did you look for in a solid state amp and where should I look? I BHK I could test drive at home, but a used Ypsilon I wouldn't able able to try and would just have to pull the trigger. Any advice or guidance is appreciated.
Some random observations,
1) your choice of amplifier, especially if you are considering a class D amp, will be very speaker dependent. In my case, I was driving a pair of Opera Platea's with a Prima Luna Prologue 5 (primary system) and tried a Class D Audio CDA 250 and thought they paired very well. The Class D sounded like schiit though with every other speaker that I had in other systems. 2) I am curious how much heat your KT 88's (do you run 4 or 8 of them, btw) could be throwing out. I have never felt this way with my PL5. Granted it is not a near field or desktop set-up. 3) Hard to replicate the PL/ tube sound if you are happy with it without using tubes. I have in use and/ or have used the Outlaw RR2150, Rega Brio, & Musical Fidelity M3 amplifiers and they were not as satisfying. I am using a Rogue Sphinx now in a secondary system (Golden Ear BRX speakers) and it is pretty good, but I enjoy my PL5 more (Zu Audio Dirty Weekenders speakers). I would stay with my PL gear. If I were to try a different tube amp, I would consider Raven audio. Rich
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As usual, @jjss49 is plugged into my brain so I’ll just echo his thoughts. Read the AGD reviews, and they’ve recently launched a stereo version that’d be worth a good look. The only other thought I have is there are some very good Class-A amp manufacturers that offer their amps with a hi/low bias switch (Clayton, Plinius) that might give you a nice compromise. Or, maybe look at Valvet amps that I’d view as Class-A lite and may give you what you’re looking for depending on the sensitivity/power needs of your speakers. Just some other food for thought, and best of luck. |
as many experienced hands have noted, modern solid state amps at the upper tier use various technologies and techniques to produce a sound that gives the best of both perhaps the most articulate among the makers is nelson pass, who describes how he and his crew dial in small, desired amounts of even order harmonic distortion into their amps to provide that tubey goodness our ears crave in reproduced music -- all the while producing the tuneful, deep, taut, powerful bass that can only be approximated by the tippy top massive tube amps well made, powerful class a amps do the same, as does alberto at agd with his brilliant take on ga-n tech - now, powerful class a stuff still produces a good amount of heat, but there are no tubes to replace, bias, burn out, and so on a really wonderful time to be in this hobby |
I went from tubes (Cary Integrated) to Pass XA100.5's and have been very pleased with the sound quality. The XA amps do get quite warm however and if heat is your issue you may want to stay away from SS amps that are heavily biased into class A. Perhaps a Pass X series amp will work for you although I have no experience with how much heat they give off. Chuck
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This is an often posed "dilemma" by audiophiles...that I just don’t get? SS amps produce heat, too. A typical SS class AB amp is going to be ~ 50% efficient. Maybe add 10 Watts per heater for each KT88, and you get an extra 40 Watts for a typical 80 Watts / ch tube amp over a comparable traditional high-bias class AB SS amp. That’s equivalent to a single, very dim, incandescent bulb. Or half of a person (since a person’s body heat is said to be roughly equivalent to an 80 Watt bulb). Double that for ~ 150 Watts/ch tube monos. Still not much. You could save perhaps a few hundred Watts of heat with a class D amp. That’s still not "a lot lot". Are there a lot of audiophiles that have their systems in a non-air conditioned hut in the Thai jungle? 😂 Buy a portable AC unit and keep the amp you want. |
I followed the same Primaluna path and ended up with AGD Audions monos. You can demo for 30 days. I run them through a Rouge RP-7 so still have "some" tube sound / rolling capability. Another advantage of the AGD's is weight. Getting older it was nice to reduce the heat in the summer and the weight if / when moving. I know class "D" is controversial in some camps but I'm pretty happy. I know the Audion design is like when Porsche went from air cooled to watered cooled but I believe these will be collectable over time. i.e. - using KT-88 to encase amp section. They really sound great. Maybe not class "A" or full tube but I can't say I miss anything. Happy class D owner.
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I have AV8 Wave amps, Prima Luna integrated, Quicksilver monos, six packs, M3si, and a Parasound A21. I just ordered a Sphinx because I needed a little tube sound but not the heat or wear of power tubes. Replacing my M3si. Good to hear it might be an upgrade. I think the OP is on the right track for heat reduction, I'd pick my A21 for his system. |
@mulveling is the heat output that insufficient from Class A to say Class A/B? I'd imagine the fins on solid state amps tend to hold on to heat rather than dissipating it up into the air/surface. I use a portable air conditioner in the room in the summer, but these things are loud as all hell so I imagined a slower heat rafitijg amp for summer would help alleviate heat and cold fighting for space in the summer months.
@tablejockey I love my Primaluna amps, I'm more curious to try something new and have been looking at more Allnic gear after just acquiring their H-5200 Phono. Then I got to thinking about more tubes and more heat which got me thinking of going to try solid state. My room is an upstairs southwest facing, 9x15 box that the sun bakes all day long. House AC doesn't work, and as a renter we've been forced to compromise with portable AC units in every room. |
just my 2 cents i would say, qualitatively, that if comparing to running my audio research ref 110 tube amp (8x kt120), if we call the heat output from that amp a '10' a decent powered solid state class a amp - say pass xa25, first watt f5, belles sa30, pair of schiit aegirs would have heat output of say, a '6' whereas a higher powered class a/b amp like hegel h20 would be a '3' and then, the agd audion monos would be a '1' |
@jjss49 this is the anecdotal information I've been looking for. I have a very inexperienced interaction with anything but tubes so this is exactly what I was hoping for. So essentially I'd be able to lessen the heating of my room which is what I wanted to assume was true with solid state Class A. Thank you |
I know what my friend,if you love how sound your system with tubes,keep it because solid state amps the majority it’s sounds stident and dynamic but the only solid state amps can sound similar is First Watt but it’s you have a eficient speakers and neutral sound,the only solid state vintage amp can sound like a tube is BK,and Pass Aleph class A but it’s very difficult to get and the prices it’s up the ceiling plus consume a vast of current, my humble opinion keep in tubes or hybrid amps. |
I did the exact same thing j-wall. I have a Primaluna dialogue premium hp amplifier with 8 kt150 tubes and also found my 13 by 17 upstairs listening room getting very warm during the summer. After an hour or two the temperature rise in the room was noticeable. I bought a PS Audio BHK 250 several months ago and while the amp does run a little warm it’s nothing like the PL. As much as I enjoyed the Primaluna the BHK is on a whole different level. Bass grip is positively phenomenal. |
@j-wall Others have asked - what is your budget? Two names I would add are Ayre Acoustics and Bryston. As good as Pass class AB products to me. Great support from the manufacturers. Very neutral and smooth compared to Rogue Sphinx, which I auditioned before buying a Rogue Stereo 100 for one of my systems. Both work well with speakers that drop to 2 ohms. High current amps with great power reserves and excellent transient response. Expensive. Bryston provides a 20 year manufacturer’s warranty. Can buy used knowing manufacturer will service them, if needed. Many Magnepan dealers use Bryston amps in their showrooms. Good luck! |
Ever hear of air conditioning. ? I have no idea of what speakers you are driving, much less your taste in music, but getting rid of PRIMA LUNA, well, I think you will discover is a big mistake, just for the sake of an environmental condition. Considering that PRIMA LUNA designs employ technology that only drives the power output stages at about 30 - 40% of their full capacity is also puzzling. Were you to switch to a very good quality "CLASS A" solid state amp, you will soon find that it too, will dissipate a significant amount of heat. So, if the temperature of your room is more important that the quality of you audio reproduction, then perhaps you should go "CLASS D". (YUCK !! ) PS If you are stuck using a noisy window AC unit., Then I might suggest a portable MITSUIBISHI "heat pump" which both cools and heats. I've read good reports on it. |
the linear tube audio zotl reference 40 tube amp is worth mentioning in this discussion https://www.lineartubeaudio.com/products/zotl-40-reference-amplifier a very special amp in that it uses the berning circuit, without output transformers and runs its 4x el34’s at a very modest biasing, thus very moderate heat (much less overall in my experience than a pass or belles class a ss amp, for instance) the amp has a wonderful, sparkling clarity, speed and impact rarely found in tube power amps, kind of a ying to the primaluna’s yang in sonic attributes - but with all the midrange and imaging magic we expect from tubes (not to mention that w/o transformers, it is light as a feather... :) |
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lordmelton: "Class A is the absolute best sound quality and contrary to popular belief they don't get that hot." Sorry but you are wrong on both counts. There are plenty of AB and class D amps that sound just as good if not better, and "yes", class A does generate a lot of heat. Axpert: I guess your comment "So, if the temperature of your room is more important that the quality of you audio reproduction, then perhaps you should go "CLASS D". (YUCK !! )" shows that you have not heard many class D amps. This is a pity and you should try to listen to more. |