Which subwoofer should I get?

Just a quick update.....looks like for only a few hundred more dollars, I could get the SVS SB-4000 pro, and I have the physical space for it. Would probably opt for that sub if the group thinks I should do SVS over REL.

I think you should let your ears and your heart be your guide.       

Get a Elac Varro DS1000....dual opposed 10 inch drivers of a very high quality (German engineering at its finest) that would go well with the woofers on your magico. The app has a very user friendly auto eq tool that should help you integrate it satisfactoriy even if you don't have all the tools for correct sub integration.

I would suggest any of the Rythmik Audio models, where it not for the fact that the company does direct-to-consumer sales only. I'm not sure what their audition policy is, so head over to their website to at least check them out. Then go to the RA AVS Forum, to see what RA owners have to say.

REL lovers often cite that company's excellent subs as being unique in offering high-level connections on speaker binding posts. That is not true; Rythmik offers a number of different plate amps, a few featuring high-level connections. The Rythmik plate amps offer one feature the REL's don't: a continuously-variable phase control, imo indispensible. Others include variable damping, and a choice of crossover filter frequencies and slopes. And all Rythmik subs feature stop-on-a-dime transient performance, thanks to the patented Rythmik Direct Servo Feedback control of the woofers.

I've used Rel subs for 20-25 yrs and have never seen a reason to change. I'm also a drummer who has sat near the bass amp for a long time. I know what a bass guitar (or stand up) sounds like. Rel produces that sound. But more importantly, its the ease of integration and the effect the Rels have on the main speakers. The sound from the mains becomes as if you had upgraded them. It give more of all the good things you now hear from them

I haven't listened to all the subs available. But I don't need to do so because of my extensive time spent listening to and playing live music. I can heartily recommend the Rel. One sub is adequate but two subs are better. You will need to size them properly for your room  & system.

Oops, "were" it not.

I use two REL S/510 for two channel.  My mains are rated fairly flat down to 28hz, but the subs still produce a notably fuller sound. They're punchy, not boomy. A few days ago, I moved my gear to a new rack. When I turned it on to test everything, I could tell that I had forgotten to turn the subs on.  The gain is set quite low as is the crossover frequency. They blend well with my mains.

I have a larger, ported SVS sub for home theatre.  It wouldn't work well for two channel. I'm sure SVS has better subs for music. Mine shakes the house when watching movies. 

Much better to get two subs than one, especially for music. I’d take two SVS SB2000 subs over one SB4000, and with their risk free trial period that might be a good option to try. If you liked one PB2000 then two SB2000s would be a significant improvement over that. The Rhythmic F12G offers big performance/$ but doesn’t have integration software like SVS but does offer speaker-level inputs like REL but much higher value as they sell direct. REL is expensive for what you get and better to go with Rhythmik IMHO (compare the specs to REL). Best of luck.

https://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12G.html

I have 2 one for each channel, MK-70B’s dual 8" drivers (push/pull) that are super fast. You can go up the ladder for the larger cones, & resale would be no problem if they don’t match. YMMV

I’m also limited for space & could have got a set of 125s to match my Klipsch Lascala bins, but the location wouldn’t let them breath, so I stepped down the ladder a few notches.

I heard my first ’high end" loudspeakers in 1971. One was the Infinity Servo-Static, the other the ESS Transtatic. Both had woofers that reproduced pretty low bass, the Infinity by virtue of a single servo-feedback 18" woofer, the ESS a KEF B139 woofer in a transmission-line enclosure. The Infinity retailed for $2000/pr (a lot of money in 1971), the ESS $1200/pr. Being an itinerant musician, I could buy neither.

Then in 1982 I saw a pair of the Transtatics for sale locally, for $400. One B139 had been replaced with a knock-off, but a call to ESS and the speaker was restored good as new. I still have 'em. Back in ’73 I had heard the original Magneplanar loudspeaker, the Tympani T-I. It was love at first sight, and I bought a pair. I was stunned by the quality of the bass produced by the two woofer panels of the Tympani, which reproduced the sound of my Gretsch 26" bass drum (recorded in my living room with a pair of small capsule omni condenser mics plugged into a Revox A77) better than any other speaker I had heard.

I provide all the above info to establish my love of clean, lean, "un-fat" reproduction of the low frequency sounds produced by percussive instruments, in particular. Bass drum, piano, and acoustic and electric bass, first and foremost. I have made music with a lot of electric bassists, and with three players of upright acoustics. The sound of an acoustic bass is very unique, it’s character being like the low register of an all-string orchestra. Like the low register of a piano, but more "sinewy".

Harry Pearson chose the Tympani bass panels as the woofers in his custom Frankenstein loudspeaker creation, feeling they reproduced bass unmatched by normal dynamic woofers. Having lived with Tympani’s on-and-off for over 50 years, I completely understand his opinion. Tympani bass is free of the "plumpness" most woofers add to the sound of an acoustic bass.

When Danny Richie of GR Research approached Brian Ding of Rythmik Audio, it was with the intention of combining Danny’s talents at designing OB loudspeakers (including woofers) with Brian’s excellent servo-feedback woofer system. The resulting product is the GR Research/Rythmik Audio OB/Dipole Servo-Feedback Woofer, the only one of it’s kind in the world.

I say all this because I find the OB Woofer to sound more like Tympani Bass than any other woofer using dynamic drivers than I’ve heard. Brian Ding himself finds the OB Woofer to sound too lean, but I (and Danny Richie, and other OB Woofer owners) disagree. I think all other woofers sound too fat. I base that on my experience playing a drumset right next to an acoustic bass, as well as hearing lots and lots of bass drums and pianos in recording studios. You would be amazed at how much electronic manipulation recording engineers add to the raw signal coming into the monitor booth.

But the OB/Dipole Sub is not for everyone, or every system. For those people and systems, the regular Rythmik Audio subs will do just fine.

My personal choice would be the REL subs, I'm also a believer in using two subs, one for right channel and the other for left channel.

Thank you one and all. It seems like a “tie” between the REL and Rhythmik subs. I have heard of Rhythmik, but never heard them. One of the things I’m concerned about is having the properly sized sub for my room, which is 19’x17’x9’ (peaked roof design). My listening position is centered on the 19’ side of my room. I too expect to get two subs, but will start with one (for a variety of reasons). Finally, due to pricing, I am planning to buy REL used, but Rhythmik or SVS new. 

REL is the OPPO of the HiFi world, over-hyped because magazines like The Absolute Sound said it was great but many cheaper alternatives do better.

I'll vote for SVS if you want to save a few bucks and like the app.

I'll also throw in the Paradigm XR13 which adds room correction, sound fantastic with music and has a better aesthetic value (comes in a few finishes if that's important)

@mwsl

For your speakers I would recommend avoiding subwoofers and letting them run as they are.

They have 3 x 9 inch woofers and response down to 25Hz driven by a robust powerful amplifier. Unless you want to high pass filter your main speakers (not recommended) the subwoofers will contribute little additional content. Be aware that subwoofer integrations are a compromise and will introduce cancellation and dynamic issues that critical music listeners can detect.  

the elac subwoofers are fantastic fast deep bass and an incredible app

the ds 1200 at 3k is a killer sub for the money

Dave and Troy

audio intellect NJ

elac subwwofer dealer

@ avanti1960

I have listened for many months to my system without a sub, and was able to listen to the system with the SVS home theater (ported bass) sub for about a month. There is no question that the subwoofer added a tangible sense of air and space to the experience. While I love my speakers (!!), I do think that adding a sub will be a positive add.

I also would be happy with two SVS SB-2000. I prefer sealed subs for music. Less bloat not using a port, tighter sound. Balance them left and right in stereo.

@gdaddy1 

There is no question that whatever sub I end up getting, it will be sealed.

@audiotroy 

The Elac subs look very interesting

@sunshdw 

.....and the Paradigm subs look very interesting as well. Definitely more expensive; in line with REL costs.

To all of you.....

I'm finding myself drawn to subs with app control. I don't understand why REL (with their great reputation and significant pricing) hasn't gone down this road yet.

@mwsl 

One of the things I’m concerned about is having the properly sized sub for my room, which is 19’x17’x9’ (peaked roof design)

My room is very similar with a 13' peak and a 12' dining room open to the LR where my system resides. I have 2 Rel S510 clones. which are Sumiko. They  were the importer for Rel for many years until Rel changed business model. They have the same specs as the S 5 rel. They fill my room easily.

I'm finding myself drawn to subs with app control. I don't understand why REL (with their great reputation and significant pricing) hasn't gone down this road yet.

Maybe they believe in the beauty of simplicity and eliminating possible interference. I'd rather adjust the sub while right next to the main speakers. Its easier to pick up all the subtleties while integrating the subs.

As for sealed vs ported, I think it comes down to design. One well designed of either design  will be better than the poorer or the other design. Good luck with your search.

I run two SVS SB4000 in my HT room and know the sound very well. I don’t think they would be ideal in a 2 Chanel setup. I don’t think they will have enough speed and you will wind up with bass overhang that muddies the two Chanel system. I think for your usage I would go for the REL. 

Also, as soon as possible start saving for a matching second sub. If you truly want them to disappear that is the way to go. Good luck and cheers. 

One very important point that should be considered IMO. The connection to a 'high level input' (Rel and Paul McGowen suggest this also).

This connection feeds the subwoofer the exact same dynamic level imparted from your amp. A punchy amp characteristic will be passed on to the sub. If you take the signal straight from your pre-amp your sub won't recieve the same dynamics that your speakers will recieve from the amp.

My experience has been the dynamic punch was considerably increased using high level input directly from the amp. BTW...this does NOT put any additional load on your amp. The subs plate amp carries the load.

Hope this helps!

I’m finding myself drawn to subs with app control. I don’t understand why REL (with their great reputation and significant pricing) hasn’t gone down this road yet.

my guess would be that, REL subs set ups are such an ease, the use of an APP would be frivolous.

Brian Ding---designer/owner of Rythmik Audio---recommends low level hookups over high level, but offers a couple of plate amps which include high level binding posts for those who want it.

I know the argument regarding feeding your main speakers and subs the same signal (from your power amp), but I consider that argument flawed. If the power amp were "perfect" (a straight wire with gain), there would be no difference between the output of your pre amp and your power amp (except in gain, watts, voltage, current, etc.). Assuming for the sake of argument that no power amp is perfect, the high level argument is therefore to add the same distortion (from the power amp) to the sub as your main speakers receive.

Let’s use a tube amp as our case study. Tube amps have long been considered slightly inferior to solid state when it comes to the reproduction of low frequencies (the Atma-Sphere OTL amps being one notable exception. A lot of the problems in tube amps when it comes to bass is the sound of output transformers, which OTL’s and most solid state amps are free of).

So with a high level hook up, you are adding the worst aspect of a tube amp to the one frequency band subs are made to reproduce: low frequencies. As the amp (presumably, and hopefully) does not suffer from that ailment in mid and high frequencies, your subs may very well be receiving a signal more different from what the speakers receive than if you were using low level connections.

At any rate, with a plate offering both high and low hookups, you are free to try both, and use the one you prefer. Rythmik Audio offers a few different amps that include both high and low level hookups. And all the Rythmik amps include a very valuable control: a continuously-variable 0-180 degree phase control, for time aligning your sub(s) and speakers. Most subs offer instead a simple 0/180 degree switch, which is of very limited value. A continuously-variable phase control allows you to find the best location in the room for the sub (in terms of bass nodes), and to then use the phase control to electronically "move" the sub (in the time domain. Rythmik labels the control Phase/Delay. Delay only, as it is obviously impossible to move the sub ahead in time.) so as to be in phase with your speakers.

I have two RELs connected via high level and they are outstanding.  Super easy to integrate without the use of an app, just your own ears and maybe some measurements using something like REW.  The measurement step isn’t strictly necessary I just wanted to know.  REL has plenty of videos you can watch to help you sort it out.

To all: once I again, I really appreciate all the input. 

@ Rick_N: helpful to know your experience with the SVS SB subs. 

@ gkelly & jastralfu - good to know the REL's are easy to set up.

Another question for everyone: on the REL speaker matching page, they are recommending two T/5x's as optimal for my setup. BUT.....their speaker matching page does NOT have the A5's  as an option, (I chose the S3's as closest match) and they do not have a choice for audio only. Given that the T/5x's are only rated -6dB at 32 Hz, I wonder if this is enough low end given my speakers and room? On the other hand, I'm a little concerned that a pair of Carbon Specials may be overkill for my situation (and a lot more expensive). Thoughts about this given my room size and need for music only? Is there a REL speaker that you think would be the sweet spot for my room and system?

FWIW, I listen to: acoustic and electric jazz, rock & pop of all eras, and all types of classical music. Oh yeah, occasionally, modern country and bluegrass. 

Hello @mwsl , I demoed both and bought the REL Carbon Specials.  I have a pair of Carbon Specials in one system and a pair of Carbon Limiteds in another.  One pair I run wirelessly with REL wireless system which allowed me to experiment with placement.  Despite some saying their controls are limiting, I am able to dial them in to where they literally disappear, yet add bottom end, air pressure, enhance soundstage and generally improve things.  My speakers are fairly full range (Vivid Giya G2.2s) yet my system clearly sounds better with the subs.  Once dialed in, you completely forget about adjusting them and just listen to the music.  Better than another remote control I think.  People often think my amps are my subs...and then ask where the subs are.

I have two REL S/812s in my system.  I like them very much.  My one complaint would be the lack of an app or more specifically, a remote control.  I find it impossible to tune the subs into the system as one size does NOT fit all.  Sure they are fine for the majority of the music I play, but I'm constantly finding way too much bass when a recording has piled it on.  A good example is Herbie Hancock's Dis Is Da Drum. The subs would dance across the floor if I didn't jump up and turn them down.  Would a remote have been that hard to incorporate, given the price of these units?  Cheers.

Very happy Rythmic 15 in sealed sub owner. Integrates really well with my Maggie’s and ProAc set up.

I use a SVS PB2000 in my office system with JBL L100 Classic speakers. I have a seamless sound and a single sub gives me excellent bass in a very large room. Their tuning app is excellent and works via Bluetooth to your phone. Once I set it up in Jan 2021, I haven’t touched the settings since. It like the Ronco oven, set and forget. I do wish I bought the sealed box SB200, but I use the port plugs and get an extremely tight and tuneful bass.

REL; set it up properly and forget about it.  Doesn't draw attention to itself, enhances the overall system, and no "app" needed.

The biggest flaw of almost all subs is the lack of a high pass filter for the main speakers. It's hard to do when you don't know the main speakers. But properly done a high pass will make the subs/mains twice as good because the main woofers have to do orders of magnitude less movement resulting in instantly recognizable better sound in the new bottom octaves of the mains. So I'd go for a sub with a high pass or find a way too add one your self.

Also, this is sort of taste. Closed box woofers are more accurate than ported ones(or passive radiators). But they don't sound as rich. Closed box subs are rare. Rhythmic makes them. There must be a few others.

I'm definitely getting some mixed messages about the utility of getting a sub that is app controlled versus the RELs without app control. That's ok, just want to acknowledge that there are differences of opinion (what else is new with audio?) 

If I go with REL, simply based on specs, it looks like a pair of S/510's which are rated at -6db @ 20HZ are obtainable on the used market for $4k for a pair. This is significantly less than the Carbon Specials and would allow me to purchase a pair immediately rather than waiting. As another data point, the S/812 would be around $4.5 - 5k for a pair.

If I decide to go for the RELs, what would you advise is the best model for my room and music listening preferences, factoring in the cost differences?

Thanks again to everybody!!

I realized I have a separate but related question. My integrated has two subwoofer out RCA connectors. The manual states only the following about them: "This output allow you to connect an active subwoofer or a second power amplifier." 

Does anybody know if these are "high" or "low" level outputs?

Given that the T/5x's are only rated -6dB at 32 Hz, I wonder if this is enough low end given my speakers and room? On the other hand, I'm a little concerned that a pair of Carbon Specials may be overkill for my situation (and a lot more expensive). Thoughts about this given my room size and need for music only?

Some thoughts — a sub that’s down 6dB at 19Hz at the price of the REL Carbon Special is nothing “special” at all when many other very good subs at less than half the price go down to an honest 20Hz and below.  A lot of spatial cues that get unearthed down there will be lost by many REL “subs.”   Many don’t realize that while not many instruments play down into the 20Hz region, there is still important recorded musical information that resides down there that plays a big part in improving imaging and an expanded 3D soundstage.  I wouldn’t worry about overkill for your room — just buy good subs that can get you to an honest 20Hz (-3dB) and if properly dialed in not only will they not overpower your room, they will work much less hard and with less distortion than smaller subs.  As for SVS subs being too sluggish for a 2-channel system — horse hockey!  I and many others here have gotten excellent results with SVS subs when properly dialed in, and all reviews back this up.  But you already got pleasing results even with a ported PB2000 so you probably already know this.  Just my experience and $0.02 FWIW. 

I had a similar dilemma. I was matching to Revel Studio Ultima 2’s. I went back and forth between buying REL or Rythmik. I read and read, listened some, but never sub for sub with my own Revel speakers, in my own listening room.. I ended up buying two Rythmik  F12SE’s. I did get a discount when you buy two at the same time.
I’m driving them with an Odyssey Kismet Amp and Hegel pre-amp. I suggest you talk to the folks (Enrico) at Rythmik directly. One note, the guys at Rythmik tried to steer me to instead buy two E15HP2 subs. I didn’t listen. I regret not taking their advice.

I could have bought REL, the choice wasn't about the money. It was there appeared no good reason to spend more money on the the RELs. BTW..today 1/2/2025, Echo Audio in Portland Oregon has two REL 810 subs for sale in very nice condition for @$3700 for the pair. If this would have been in play, I don’t know it I would have passed that deal up to buy the Rythmiks..

Just so you know, SVS makes an $80 adapter that does allow you to use speaker level inputs if you have to or want to use that option. 

SVS SoundPath Speaker Level Subwoofer Adapter
 

I had a similar dilemma. I was matching to Revel Studio Ultima 2’s. I went back and forth between buying REL or Rythmik. I read and read, listened some, but never sub for sub with my own Revel speakers, in my own listening room.. I ended up buying two Rythmik  F12SE’s. I did get a discount when you buy two at the same time.
I’m driving them with an Odyssey Kismet Amp and Hegel pre-amp. I suggest you talk to the folks (Enrico) at Rythmik directly. One note, the guys at Rythmik tried to steer me to instead buy two E15HP2 subs. I didn’t listen. I regret not taking their advice. It’s a small footprint! 

I could have bought REL, the choice wasn't about the money. It was there appeared no good reason to spend more money for the REL’s.

BTW..today 1/2/2025, Echo Audio in Portland Oregon has two REL 810 subs for sale in very nice condition for @$3700 for the pair. If this would have been in play, I don’t know if I would have passed that deal up to buy the Rythmiks..

I can recommend 2 SVS subs depending on your budget.  The 45 day buy and try and return for free in the US allows you to make sure they sound good with your system in your room.  The most important part or buying without regret in my experience.  Their customer service is excellent after the sale.  You can talk with someone live to help troubleshoot any issues.  The app makes it so easy to use.  I run with my 2 SB1000 Pros with my iPad and it’s working well for me. 

Especially as you want the app and other features and a sealed sub, check out the Arendal 1723 1s or 2s, as its sound characteristics is said to be between the SVS and REL.  Many reviews on YouTube, especially Nemo Propaganda as he covers all the subs that have been discussed here.

I use Arendal’s smallest sub in my bedroom system paired with Magnepan LRS+.

I have a few thoughts as a sub user for 20+ years now. I have heard the brands you are discussing and many others. I am firmly in the camp that all systems improve with prosper implementation of subs. 

short answer, will the SVS sound as good as the Rel and cost less?… yep… and a big chance the SVS will sound better as it is tunable.  -6db @ 20HZ Is comical for a sub as the sub still needs room gain to get flat. At which point you are hoping for the perfect amount of room gain. The SVS will allow you to adjust for room gain and a bit of boundary interference.

Rel’s high level input is a joke. No one with a lot of subwoofer experience would choose this connection. Yes it can work fine but why take the time to dial this very old method in. 
 

 In general I would buy the biggest sub you can, think 15” or 18” subs. Each drop in octave takes 4 times the displacement. Your mains have 3x9” drivers with a surface area of 189 square inches per speaker and I bet they have good throw distance too. A 15” subs is 175in/sq and an 18” subs is 254”in/sq.  The less the sub has the work the better it will sound. You have top notch speakers that need top level subs imo.

if you like SVS I would look at the new Ultra 17 ($2500). They have a 30 or 60 day home trial.

If it were my money I would be looking at Rythmic 18 or JTR RS1 with an active crossover. I own the JTRs and have written about them if you want to see my detailed opinion. Big subs that play a wide bandwidth (10hz-200hz) will play 20-80hz with ease. Highpassing the main would take it up another level too. 

@james633 --

+1

It’s telling seeing main speakers with bigger displacement area in their woofer section than the subs that augment them. Indeed, physically subs are quite often smaller than the mains, and knowing Hofmann’s Iron Law we know what it affects (i.e.: sensitivity) - which is not without consequences. Somewhere along the line the dominating narrative has crept in that a physically smaller sub cabinet volume makes it easier to control resonances, effectively setting an upper limit for sub size, but seeing the forest for the trees (and knowing what it’s really about here) it’s also an argument that conveniently supports audiophiles’ resentment towards large sized subs for no other reason really than the inconvenience of size.

Enclosure resonances aren’t trivial, but the question is to which degree compared to lessening the workload of the woofers; smaller/fewer woofers working nearer their limit will effectively negate the work that has gone into making the cabs rigid due to large amounts of mechanical distortion from the driver itself, so it comes down to knowing the difference ease of reproduction (from prodigious air radiation area) a good sub design can have, from cabs that are as rigid as it requires for them not to impede too severely with the overall quality of the bass (hint: it can be done without resorting to builds that weighs in excess of several hundred pounds). For those wondering about the sufficiency of what’s required to make large cabs rigid enough, as an outset at least it only matters that such sub designs produce cleaner, more palpable and effortless bass than their smaller or less efficient brethren.

If one were to abide by the "no resonances"-approach of sub cabs it follows that their weight (and price) would become the actual, practical hindrance way before the woofer size/effective air radiation area would get to a place where it really mattered. Small subs, both with regard to driver and cab size, can be made to sound well with bigger main speakers within morerate SPL’s, no doubt, but that way (unless in multiples, and of course taking for granted good implementation/distribution) one isn’t taking the fuller advantage of what subs can do and how they could complement the overall sound. Shooting for energy linearity into the subs region and seeing what’s required for this to come true is a good starting point, but it’s a rudimentary physical aspect few seem to consider or won’t practically accommodate, so there we are.

my guess would be that, REL subs set ups are such an ease, the use of an APP would be frivolous.

Only Rel subs defied physics and set up with ease in spite of a severely lazy lack of features and integration tools??

"such an ease", Rel marketing is quite funny..

@ James633

This was a VERY helpful post….thank you. The JTR’s are truly above my price point, so will do very serious investigation of the Rhythmik, since you and so many others think so highly of this brand. As suggested by another post, I will contact Rhythmik to get their advice on which subs make the most sense for my room and system. 

FWIW (to all): my local audio dealer is a BIG REL fan and strongly encouraged me to get the Carbon Special. What started all of this was I found a very good used deal on a Carbon Special, and then thought I ought to seek the wisdom of this group……and I’m very glad I did.

Thank you to everyone for your feedback. 

P.S. We’re about to do some construction in my 2-channel room, so will likely wait until that mess is done in a few weeks to pick this back up and make some final decisions.

I would recommend a pair of RSL 12 S subs. I have had many of the subs listed above, and I have to say, the RSLs are "musical", if anyone could know the meaning of what this term says. Very hard to match subwoofers to my Klipsch Lascala dog houses, but I have found them. If you overlook these, you are losing out on a great product at a great price. Many excellent reviews. Happy New Year to all. MrD.

mwsl

l would say the RCA outs for sub connection from your amplifier would probably be low level not hi. Stick with hi level for pure Hi-Fi stereo.

Rels hi level Neutrik connection is for direct connection to your speaker out terminals (or from your speakers inputs if is easier to wire up if you have a stereo pair of subs)

@ mylogic - thanks, was wondering about that. 

Do you happen to have a URL for an article that can explain in layman's terms the concept behind hi and lo level inputs for subwoofers?

mwsl

l have the manuals for various Rel subs but it is so difficult to post photos on Audiogon.

l started with a Rel Quake in the early 2000s and over this time since then l now have two T9i’s in my latest set up. Rel are more expensive than the competition but l believe they achieve what they are best at….hi level Neutrik connectability.

lf you just Google Rel Neutrik hi level input this will get you started on how to connect to amplifier and their philosophy on this method over low level RCA.

ln my opinion hi level for hi-fi and low level for home theatre only.

@ Mylogic - thank. Will do.

ln my opinion hi level for hi-fi and low level for home theatre only.

@mylogic  That might be your opinion, but most of the top subwoofers extant from the likes of Magico, Wilson, and JL Labs whose top subs venture well north of $20k only have line level inputs.  Hmmm.  Pretty sure these guys know what they’re doing, and if they thought high-level inputs were in any way better they would’ve included them in subs at this level.  Or maybe you can explain to Alon Wolf and Daryl Wilson why their uber-expensive subs are just for home theater.  You know what they say about opinions…