I love my system......but I had the opportunity to use an SVS PB-2000 pro (home theater subwoofer) for a few weeks, and it really improved the overall experience.
I have the opportunity to purchase a REL Carbon Special sub (used) or purchase an SVS SB 3000 Pro. I really like the fact that the SVS subs have so many user adjustable features, and can be adjusted on the fly from an app. I've been told over and over that the sonic qualities of the REL far outweigh the advantages of the SVS subs. Would love to hear from you regarding this issue.
So, in brief, should I go for the REL, the SVS, or some other sub (if so, why?)?
I’m very pleased with HSU (pronounced “shoe”)subwoofers, of which I have two. My older HSU sub is their VTF-MKII. I recently added Dr. Hsu’s (MIT PHd -engineering) newest and most powerful model, the VTF-TN1. Both are accurate or I like to say “tight and right”. Dr.Hsu has been designing subwoofers for over 40 years at his small facility in Anaheim.Ca
Rather than go into descriptive detail in this post I suggest that you visit.
ps I think you will also be very pleased with the prices. Also if you call Dr Hsu he frequently answers the phone himself. He’s a brilliant engineer, easy to took with and is a subwoofer “whisperer”. :)
@ fleschler - FYI the Shockwave subs are a Von Schweikert product. Definitely over my price point. FWIW Westminster Lab makes amplification and pre-amps.
@ Audiorusty - thanks for validating James633. It struck me as good advice as well
@ mylogic - truly appreciate your ongoing clarifications. I was originally thinking about the REL Carbon special.
To all: I am now convinced that a pair of subs is the direction I will be going. My overall budget needs to be limited to $4k, which gives me lots of options. I’m still leaning towards Rhythmik (wish they had app control, but I’m a little less hung up on this as being a critical feature…..more of a nice-to-have rather than need-to-have). The Arendel 1723 S1’s looks like another very interesting option, given their app control and better aesthetics.
Once again, very appreciative of the advice this group can offer. Will keep you apprised later this month post-construction (there’s going to be holes cut in our drywall to install a new window; don’t want to introduce new equipment until the construction dust settles).
Hi Matt. Just to clarify what audiorusty advised you. The Rel T5x you were originally recommended (in your first post l believe) would not cause concern with your A5’s. The T5 range do not have the passive radiator, just a single down firing driver. Move up the T range and they do have the passive radiator.
My only concern would be if the T5x could be too small for your room but if you are thinking of a stereo pair then that is a different situation. Try one and if needed buy a second….they are not that expensive.
In one my of my replies to your post l stated that l started with a Rel Quake the basic 100 watt budget end of their range. It was very impressive with Hi-Fi and Cinema so l bought a second. They integrated so easily and once set up there was no need to endlessly fiddle. I kept them for over ten years. The T5x is about the same size as the Quake but from memory has a 150 watt amp. T5i’s are a cheaper option on the 2nd hand market too and maybe not a lot difference to the T5x.
l believe you may have moved up the Rel range in your considerations now but thought this may still be of help. The Rels are well made and the cabinet finish is exemplary.
Westminster Labs Shockwave, currently in 12" and 15" configurations, pending or already released new 10". Takes the monitor speakers and even full range standing speakers to a new level of fullness and openness (bass effects highs as well). Brilliant design and execution but not inexpensive.
I would be careful pairing a REL with your A5’s, Most if not all REL subs incorporate a passive radiator in their designs. The passive radiator dramatically increases the decay and sustain portion of a note or beat. (The four stages of every note or drum beat are attack, decay, sustain and release) Your A5’s being a sealed cabinet design will not do that, so the bass coming out of the REL will sound much fatter than what comes out of the Magico’s and they may not blend well together.
Concerning the high level input, that was created out of necessity. Most home audio at any level, low, mid or high is not designed for the incorporation of a subwoofer. Unless you have separates, or an integrated amp that has preamp outputs and inputs, it’s pretty difficult to send a secondary line level signal to a second amplifier. So if you are a speaker manufacturer and all you make are subwoofers and you want to increase your market share what do you do? Well you create a high level connection that takes that speaker level signal, convert it back to a line level signal that an amplifier and other circuits can handle, process said signal and re-amplify it. Not the best way to make a connection but if that is the only way you can make it, at least you have an option.
@mswale I agree with @big_gregif you heard boom boom from the SB3000 and highly likely that sub wasn’t dialed in properly. I’m not saying it’s on the same level as the better RELs or JL Labs subs, but it’s definitely not a boom boom sub if set up properly. Read any review — they all say it works very well for music and no mention of bloom or bloat. The cynic in me thinks the dealer may have done that on purpose to make the pricier subs sound better because this just doesn’t sound right. I’ve got an SB2000 and there’s no boom boom whatsoever when the volume/crossover is set properly. Something stinks here.
BOOM, lots of BOOM, this thing had power, but not accuracy. Would be perfect, if I just listened to Techno, Rap.
It's unfortunate that's what you heard. Where did you hear it, and who set it up? There's Best Buy and like stores that try to impress with loudness, then there's an experienced hobbyist's home where they are properly set up and integrated with the room and speakers. What you described hasn't been my experience, unless I intentionally set them up for maximum effect during movies in a home theater system, which is where I started my subwoofer journey.
l think you have misunderstood my comments on Rels….. All their models offer hi-level AND low level inputs!
l use hi-level for two channel hi-fi and that’s the end of story for me. For home theatre that is a different story because you can only accept multi-channel via RCA line in so l have nothing against low level. Hi-fi 2 channel via Neutrik hi-level is just a better option. Adopting that input method passes on the amplifiers harmonics so the sub receives your amplifiers signature characteristics. You do know the signal is relayed from the amps speaker out terminals?
Rel were the first sub manufacturer to offer this to the market place and some other manufacturers adopted the technology and the reasoning. Rel by offering the two input options allow you to use the sub for two channel hi-fi via hi-level Neutrik (often referred to as Speakon) and low level line in RCA for cinema multichannel. That has to be TWO good reasons to audition the Rel range.
My personal evaluation of Rels Neutrik hi-level input application is based on 25 years of ‘personal’ knowledge. I am still currently using two Rel T9i’s so my opinion is they work exceedingly well for me using hi-level for hi-fi.
@mylogic Most other excellent lower-priced subs from the likes of Paradigm, Perlisten, etc. also only use low level inputs — are they just home theater subs too? Silly. Doubt you’ve even heard a decent sub in your room with low level inputs, so coming here and stating that subs with low level inputs are only for home theater is ignorant and frankly just a ridiculous statement, but you’re certainly entitled to your opinion just as I am to question it.
Anyhow this platform is for giving advice as we see it and opinions and beliefs.
Horses for courses, you pays your money and takes your choice. My advice opinion was directed to ‘mwsl’ who has shown his intention to buy a Rel and as most will realise on here, they do not stretch to a $20k overkill sub for a domestic environment.
My personal evaluation of Rels Neutrik hi-level input application is based on 25 years of ‘personal’ knowledge. I am still currently using two Rel T9i’s so my opinion is they work exceedingly well for me using hi-level for hi-fi.
Also looking at adding a sub to my 2ch system, went to my local dealer to listen to a few. Was thinking about SVS, REL and Rythmik. Of course you can't addition Rythmik unless you buy one.
On the same system, with the same 3 songs, back to back, to back,
Rel Classic 99
sounded the best, disappeared into the room, fast, accurate, smooth, felt like it was hitting lower then it was. Felt like a warm blanket of bass.
SVS SB3000
BOOM, lots of BOOM, this thing had power, but not accuracy. Would be perfect, if I just listened to Techno, Rap.
JL Audio (forget the model, it was $5)
Very smooth, very accurate, LOTS of power, also most expensive. Was on the cold side. Also out of budget.
Bowers & Wilkins - 800
Used the DPS to set it up in the room, that was cool. In between the REL and JL Audio. Good bass, good power, not as fast or accurate, not warm or cold, maybe more boom that I want.
In the end, I want the REL, it was by far the most musical, added pure bass, with out any boom, was very fast, accurate, not overpowering. Even though it hits higher over the other subs, it felt like it was going deeper. Also the fact that it totally disappeared into the room.
Not sure how it compares to Rythmik, cost is about the same, the REL also perfectly matches my Walnut Klipsch.
ln my opinion hi level for hi-fi and low level for home theatre only.
@mylogic That might be your opinion, but most of the top subwoofers extant from the likes of Magico, Wilson, and JL Labs whose top subs venture well north of $20k only have line level inputs. Hmmm. Pretty sure these guys know what they’re doing, and if they thought high-level inputs were in any way better they would’ve included them in subs at this level. Or maybe you can explain to Alon Wolf and Daryl Wilson why their uber-expensive subs are just for home theater. You know what they say about opinions…
l have the manuals for various Rel subs but it is so difficult to post photos on Audiogon.
l started with a Rel Quake in the early 2000s and over this time since then l now have two T9i’s in my latest set up. Rel are more expensive than the competition but l believe they achieve what they are best at….hi level Neutrik connectability.
lf you just Google Rel Neutrik hi level input this will get you started on how to connect to amplifier and their philosophy on this method over low level RCA.
ln my opinion hi level for hi-fi and low level for home theatre only.
l would say the RCA outs for sub connection from your amplifier would probably be low level not hi. Stick with hi level for pure Hi-Fi stereo.
Rels hi level Neutrik connection is for direct connection to your speaker out terminals (or from your speakers inputs if is easier to wire up if you have a stereo pair of subs)
I would recommend a pair of RSL 12 S subs. I have had many of the subs listed above, and I have to say, the RSLs are "musical", if anyone could know the meaning of what this term says. Very hard to match subwoofers to my Klipsch Lascala dog houses, but I have found them. If you overlook these, you are losing out on a great product at a great price. Many excellent reviews. Happy New Year to all. MrD.
This was a VERY helpful post….thank you. The JTR’s are truly above my price point, so will do very serious investigation of the Rhythmik, since you and so many others think so highly of this brand. As suggested by another post, I will contact Rhythmik to get their advice on which subs make the most sense for my room and system.
FWIW (to all): my local audio dealer is a BIG REL fan and strongly encouraged me to get the Carbon Special. What started all of this was I found a very good used deal on a Carbon Special, and then thought I ought to seek the wisdom of this group……and I’m very glad I did.
Thank you to everyone for your feedback.
P.S. We’re about to do some construction in my 2-channel room, so will likely wait until that mess is done in a few weeks to pick this back up and make some final decisions.
It’s telling seeing main speakers with bigger displacement area in their woofer section than the subs that augment them. Indeed, physically subs are quite often smaller than the mains, and knowing Hofmann’s Iron Law we know what it affects (i.e.: sensitivity) - which is not without consequences. Somewhere along the line the dominating narrative has crept in that a physically smaller sub cabinet volume makes it easier to control resonances, effectively setting an upper limit for sub size, but seeing the forest for the trees (and knowing what it’s really about here) it’s also an argument that conveniently supports audiophiles’ resentment towards large sized subs for no other reason really than the inconvenience of size.
Enclosure resonances aren’t trivial, but the question is to which degree compared to lessening the workload of the woofers; smaller/fewer woofers working nearer their limit will effectively negate the work that has gone into making the cabs rigid due to large amounts of mechanical distortion from the driver itself, so it comes down to knowing the difference ease of reproduction (from prodigious air radiation area) a good sub design can have, from cabs that are as rigid as it requires for them not to impede too severely with the overall quality of the bass (hint: it can be done without resorting to builds that weighs in excess of several hundred pounds). For those wondering about the sufficiency of what’s required to make large cabs rigid enough, as an outset at least it only matters that such sub designs produce cleaner, more palpable and effortless bass than their smaller or less efficient brethren.
If one were to abide by the "no resonances"-approach of sub cabs it follows that their weight (and price) would become the actual, practical hindrance way before the woofer size/effective air radiation area would get to a place where it really mattered. Small subs, both with regard to driver and cab size, can be made to sound well with bigger main speakers within morerate SPL’s, no doubt, but that way (unless in multiples, and of course taking for granted good implementation/distribution) one isn’t taking the fuller advantage of what subs can do and how they could complement the overall sound. Shooting for energy linearity into the subs region and seeing what’s required for this to come true is a good starting point, but it’s a rudimentary physical aspect few seem to consider or won’t practically accommodate, so there we are.
I have a few thoughts as a sub user for 20+ years now. I have heard the brands you are discussing and many others. I am firmly in the camp that all systems improve with prosper implementation of subs.
short answer, will the SVS sound as good as the Rel and cost less?… yep… and a big chance the SVS will sound better as it is tunable. -6db @ 20HZ Is comical for a sub as the sub still needs room gain to get flat. At which point you are hoping for the perfect amount of room gain. The SVS will allow you to adjust for room gain and a bit of boundary interference.
Rel’s high level input is a joke. No one with a lot of subwoofer experience would choose this connection. Yes it can work fine but why take the time to dial this very old method in.
In general I would buy the biggest sub you can, think 15” or 18” subs. Each drop in octave takes 4 times the displacement. Your mains have 3x9” drivers with a surface area of 189 square inches per speaker and I bet they have good throw distance too. A 15” subs is 175in/sq and an 18” subs is 254”in/sq. The less the sub has the work the better it will sound. You have top notch speakers that need top level subs imo.
if you like SVS I would look at the new Ultra 17 ($2500). They have a 30 or 60 day home trial.
If it were my money I would be looking at Rythmic 18 or JTR RS1 with an active crossover. I own the JTRs and have written about them if you want to see my detailed opinion. Big subs that play a wide bandwidth (10hz-200hz) will play 20-80hz with ease. Highpassing the main would take it up another level too.
Especially as you want the app and other features and a sealed sub, check out the Arendal 1723 1s or 2s, as its sound characteristics is said to be between the SVS and REL. Many reviews on YouTube, especially Nemo Propaganda as he covers all the subs that have been discussed here.
I use Arendal’s smallest sub in my bedroom system paired with Magnepan LRS+.
I can recommend 2 SVS subs depending on your budget. The 45 day buy and try and return for free in the US allows you to make sure they sound good with your system in your room. The most important part or buying without regret in my experience. Their customer service is excellent after the sale. You can talk with someone live to help troubleshoot any issues. The app makes it so easy to use. I run with my 2 SB1000 Pros with my iPad and it’s working well for me.
I had a similar dilemma. I was matching to Revel Studio Ultima 2’s. I went back and forth between buying REL or Rythmik. I read and read, listened some, but never sub for sub with my own Revel speakers, in my own listening room.. I ended up buying two Rythmik F12SE’s. I did get a discount when you buy two at the same time.
I’m driving them with an Odyssey Kismet Amp and Hegel pre-amp. I suggest you talk to the folks (Enrico) at Rythmik directly. One note, the guys at Rythmik tried to steer me to instead buy two E15HP2 subs. I didn’t listen. I regret not taking their advice. It’s a small footprint!
I could have bought REL, the choice wasn't about the money. It was there appeared no good reason to spend more money for the REL’s.
BTW..today 1/2/2025, Echo Audio in Portland Oregon has two REL 810 subs for sale in very nice condition for @$3700 for the pair. If this would have been in play, I don’t know if I would have passed that deal up to buy the Rythmiks..
I had a similar dilemma. I was matching to Revel Studio Ultima 2’s. I went back and forth between buying REL or Rythmik. I read and read, listened some, but never sub for sub with my own Revel speakers, in my own listening room.. I ended up buying two Rythmik F12SE’s. I did get a discount when you buy two at the same time.
I’m driving them with an Odyssey Kismet Amp and Hegel pre-amp. I suggest you talk to the folks (Enrico) at Rythmik directly. One note, the guys at Rythmik tried to steer me to instead buy two E15HP2 subs. I didn’t listen. I regret not taking their advice.
I could have bought REL, the choice wasn't about the money. It was there appeared no good reason to spend more money on the the RELs. BTW..today 1/2/2025, Echo Audio in Portland Oregon has two REL 810 subs for sale in very nice condition for @$3700 for the pair. If this would have been in play, I don’t know it I would have passed that deal up to buy the Rythmiks..
Given that the T/5x's are only rated -6dB at 32 Hz, I wonder if this is enough low end given my speakers and room? On the other hand, I'm a little concerned that a pair of Carbon Specials may be overkill for my situation (and a lot more expensive). Thoughts about this given my room size and need for music only?
Some thoughts — a sub that’s down 6dB at 19Hz at the price of the REL Carbon Special is nothing “special” at all when many other very good subs at less than half the price go down to an honest 20Hz and below. A lot of spatial cues that get unearthed down there will be lost by many REL “subs.” Many don’t realize that while not many instruments play down into the 20Hz region, there is still important recorded musical information that resides down there that plays a big part in improving imaging and an expanded 3D soundstage. I wouldn’t worry about overkill for your room — just buy good subs that can get you to an honest 20Hz (-3dB) and if properly dialed in not only will they not overpower your room, they will work much less hard and with less distortion than smaller subs. As for SVS subs being too sluggish for a 2-channel system — horse hockey! I and many others here have gotten excellent results with SVS subs when properly dialed in, and all reviews back this up. But you already got pleasing results even with a ported PB2000 so you probably already know this. Just my experience and $0.02 FWIW.
I realized I have a separate but related question. My integrated has two subwoofer out RCA connectors. The manual states only the following about them: "This output allow you to connect an active subwoofer or a second power amplifier."
Does anybody know if these are "high" or "low" level outputs?
I'm definitely getting some mixed messages about the utility of getting a sub that is app controlled versus the RELs without app control. That's ok, just want to acknowledge that there are differences of opinion (what else is new with audio?)
If I go with REL, simply based on specs, it looks like a pair of S/510's which are rated at -6db @ 20HZ are obtainable on the used market for $4k for a pair. This is significantly less than the Carbon Specials and would allow me to purchase a pair immediately rather than waiting. As another data point, the S/812 would be around $4.5 - 5k for a pair.
If I decide to go for the RELs, what would you advise is the best model for my room and music listening preferences, factoring in the cost differences?
The biggest flaw of almost all subs is the lack of a high pass filter for the main speakers. It's hard to do when you don't know the main speakers. But properly done a high pass will make the subs/mains twice as good because the main woofers have to do orders of magnitude less movement resulting in instantly recognizable better sound in the new bottom octaves of the mains. So I'd go for a sub with a high pass or find a way too add one your self.
Also, this is sort of taste. Closed box woofers are more accurate than ported ones(or passive radiators). But they don't sound as rich. Closed box subs are rare. Rhythmic makes them. There must be a few others.
I use a SVS PB2000 in my office system with JBL L100 Classic speakers. I have a seamless sound and a single sub gives me excellent bass in a very large room. Their tuning app is excellent and works via Bluetooth to your phone. Once I set it up in Jan 2021, I haven’t touched the settings since. It like the Ronco oven, set and forget. I do wish I bought the sealed box SB200, but I use the port plugs and get an extremely tight and tuneful bass.
I have two REL S/812s in my system. I like them very much. My one complaint would be the lack of an app or more specifically, a remote control. I find it impossible to tune the subs into the system as one size does NOT fit all. Sure they are fine for the majority of the music I play, but I'm constantly finding way too much bass when a recording has piled it on. A good example is Herbie Hancock's Dis Is Da Drum. The subs would dance across the floor if I didn't jump up and turn them down. Would a remote have been that hard to incorporate, given the price of these units? Cheers.
Hello @mwsl, I demoed both and bought the REL Carbon Specials. I have a pair of Carbon Specials in one system and a pair of Carbon Limiteds in another. One pair I run wirelessly with REL wireless system which allowed me to experiment with placement. Despite some saying their controls are limiting, I am able to dial them in to where they literally disappear, yet add bottom end, air pressure, enhance soundstage and generally improve things. My speakers are fairly full range (Vivid Giya G2.2s) yet my system clearly sounds better with the subs. Once dialed in, you completely forget about adjusting them and just listen to the music. Better than another remote control I think. People often think my amps are my subs...and then ask where the subs are.
To all: once I again, I really appreciate all the input.
@ Rick_N: helpful to know your experience with the SVS SB subs.
@ gkelly & jastralfu - good to know the REL's are easy to set up.
Another question for everyone: on the REL speaker matching page, they are recommending two T/5x's as optimal for my setup. BUT.....their speaker matching page does NOT have the A5's as an option, (I chose the S3's as closest match) and they do not have a choice for audio only. Given that the T/5x's are only rated -6dB at 32 Hz, I wonder if this is enough low end given my speakers and room? On the other hand, I'm a little concerned that a pair of Carbon Specials may be overkill for my situation (and a lot more expensive). Thoughts about this given my room size and need for music only? Is there a REL speaker that you think would be the sweet spot for my room and system?
FWIW, I listen to: acoustic and electric jazz, rock & pop of all eras, and all types of classical music. Oh yeah, occasionally, modern country and bluegrass.
I have two RELs connected via high level and they are outstanding. Super easy to integrate without the use of an app, just your own ears and maybe some measurements using something like REW. The measurement step isn’t strictly necessary I just wanted to know. REL has plenty of videos you can watch to help you sort it out.
Brian Ding---designer/owner of Rythmik Audio---recommends low level hookups over high level, but offers a couple of plate amps which include high level binding posts for those who want it.
I know the argument regarding feeding your main speakers and subs the same signal (from your power amp), but I consider that argument flawed. If the power amp were "perfect" (a straight wire with gain), there would be no difference between the output of your pre amp and your power amp (except in gain, watts, voltage, current, etc.). Assuming for the sake of argument that no power amp is perfect, the high level argument is therefore to add the same distortion (from the power amp) to the sub as your main speakers receive.
Let’s use a tube amp as our case study. Tube amps have long been considered slightly inferior to solid state when it comes to the reproduction of low frequencies (the Atma-Sphere OTL amps being one notable exception. A lot of the problems in tube amps when it comes to bass is the sound of output transformers, which OTL’s and most solid state amps are free of).
So with a high level hook up, you are adding the worst aspect of a tube amp to the one frequency band subs are made to reproduce: low frequencies. As the amp (presumably, and hopefully) does not suffer from that ailment in mid and high frequencies, your subs may very well be receiving a signal more different from what the speakers receive than if you were using low level connections.
At any rate, with a plate offering both high and low hookups, you are free to try both, and use the one you prefer. Rythmik Audio offers a few different amps that include both high and low level hookups. And all the Rythmik amps include a very valuable control: a continuously-variable 0-180 degree phase control, for time aligning your sub(s) and speakers. Most subs offer instead a simple 0/180 degree switch, which is of very limited value. A continuously-variable phase control allows you to find the best location in the room for the sub (in terms of bass nodes), and to then use the phase control to electronically "move" the sub (in the time domain. Rythmik labels the control Phase/Delay. Delay only, as it is obviously impossible to move the sub ahead in time.) so as to be in phase with your speakers.
I’m finding myself drawn to subs with app control. I don’t understand why REL (with their great reputation and significant pricing) hasn’t gone down this road yet.
my guess would be that, REL subs set ups are such an ease, the use of an APP would be frivolous.
One very important point that should be considered IMO. The connection to a 'high level input' (Rel and Paul McGowen suggest this also).
This connection feeds the subwoofer the exact same dynamic level imparted from your amp. A punchy amp characteristic will be passed on to the sub. If you take the signal straight from your pre-amp your sub won't recieve the same dynamics that your speakers will recieve from the amp.
My experience has been the dynamic punch was considerably increased using high level input directly from the amp. BTW...this does NOT put any additional load on your amp. The subs plate amp carries the load.
I run two SVS SB4000 in my HT room and know the sound very well. I don’t think they would be ideal in a 2 Chanel setup. I don’t think they will have enough speed and you will wind up with bass overhang that muddies the two Chanel system. I think for your usage I would go for the REL.
Also, as soon as possible start saving for a matching second sub. If you truly want them to disappear that is the way to go. Good luck and cheers.
One of the things I’m concerned about is having the properly sized sub for my room, which is 19’x17’x9’ (peaked roof design)
My room is very similar with a 13' peak and a 12' dining room open to the LR where my system resides. I have 2 Rel S510 clones. which are Sumiko. They were the importer for Rel for many years until Rel changed business model. They have the same specs as the S 5 rel. They fill my room easily.
I'm finding myself drawn to subs with app control. I don't understand why REL (with their great reputation and significant pricing) hasn't gone down this road yet.
Maybe they believe in the beauty of simplicity and eliminating possible interference. I'd rather adjust the sub while right next to the main speakers. Its easier to pick up all the subtleties while integrating the subs.
As for sealed vs ported, I think it comes down to design. One well designed of either design will be better than the poorer or the other design. Good luck with your search.
.....and the Paradigm subs look very interesting as well. Definitely more expensive; in line with REL costs.
To all of you.....
I'm finding myself drawn to subs with app control. I don't understand why REL (with their great reputation and significant pricing) hasn't gone down this road yet.
I also would be happy with two SVS SB-2000. I prefer sealed subs for music. Less bloat not using a port, tighter sound. Balance them left and right in stereo.
I have listened for many months to my system without a sub, and was able to listen to the system with the SVS home theater (ported bass) sub for about a month. There is no question that the subwoofer added a tangible sense of air and space to the experience. While I love my speakers (!!), I do think that adding a sub will be a positive add.
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) so as to be in phase with your speakers.