Which subwoofer should I get?

Also looking at adding a sub to my 2ch system, went to my local dealer to listen to a few. Was thinking about SVS, REL and Rythmik. Of course you can't addition Rythmik unless you buy one. 

On the same system, with the same 3 songs, back to back, to back, 

Rel Classic 99 

sounded the best, disappeared into the room, fast, accurate, smooth, felt like it was hitting lower then it was. Felt like a warm blanket of bass.

SVS SB3000

BOOM, lots of BOOM, this thing had power, but not accuracy. Would be perfect, if I just listened to Techno, Rap.

JL Audio (forget the model, it was $5)

Very smooth, very accurate, LOTS of power, also most expensive. Was on the cold side. Also out of budget. 

Bowers & Wilkins - 800

Used the DPS to set it up in the room, that was cool. In between the REL and JL Audio. Good bass, good power, not as fast or accurate, not warm or cold, maybe more boom that I want.

In the end, I want the REL, it was by far the most musical, added pure bass, with out any boom, was very fast, accurate, not overpowering. Even though it hits higher over the other subs, it felt like it was going deeper. Also the fact that it totally disappeared into the room. 

Not sure how it compares to Rythmik, cost is about the same, the REL also perfectly matches my Walnut Klipsch. 

I have a Pair of BagEnd InfraSubs 18"  Amazing, sounds and service, and support, Great folks.   https://bagend.com/product/isub2-18-bag-end/

Easy to part fools from their money….

l mean $20k for a sub?

Anyhow this platform is for giving advice as we see it and opinions and beliefs.

Horses for courses, you pays your money and takes your choice. My advice opinion was directed to ‘mwsl’ who has shown his intention to buy a Rel and as most will realise on here, they do not stretch to a $20k overkill sub for a domestic environment.

My personal evaluation of Rels Neutrik hi-level input application is based on 25 years of ‘personal’ knowledge. I am still currently using two Rel T9i’s so my opinion is they work exceedingly well for me using hi-level for hi-fi.

My personal evaluation of Rels Neutrik hi-level input application is based on 25 years of ‘personal’ knowledge. I am still currently using two Rel T9i’s so my opinion is they work exceedingly well for me using hi-level for hi-fi.

@mylogic  Most other excellent lower-priced subs from the likes of Paradigm, Perlisten, etc. also only use low level inputs — are they just home theater subs too?  Silly.  Doubt you’ve even heard a decent sub in your room with low level inputs, so coming here and stating that subs with low level inputs are only for home theater is ignorant and frankly just a ridiculous statement, but you’re certainly entitled to your opinion just as I am to question it.

soix

l have heard a few Paradigm subs many years ago.

l think you have misunderstood my comments on Rels….. All their models offer hi-level AND low level inputs!

l use hi-level for two channel hi-fi and that’s the end of story for me. For home theatre that is a different story because you can only accept multi-channel via RCA line in so l have nothing against low level. Hi-fi 2 channel via Neutrik hi-level is just a better option. Adopting that input method passes on the amplifiers harmonics so the sub receives your amplifiers signature characteristics. You do know the signal is relayed from the amps speaker out terminals?

Rel were the first sub manufacturer to offer this to the market place and some other manufacturers adopted the technology and the reasoning. Rel by offering the two input options allow you to use the sub for two channel hi-fi via hi-level Neutrik (often referred to as Speakon) and low level line in RCA for cinema multichannel. That has to be TWO good reasons to audition the Rel range.

SVS SB3000

BOOM, lots of BOOM, this thing had power, but not accuracy. Would be perfect, if I just listened to Techno, Rap.

It's unfortunate that's what you heard.  Where did you hear it, and who set it up?  There's Best Buy and like stores that try to impress with loudness, then there's an experienced hobbyist's home where they are properly set up and integrated with the room and speakers.  What you described hasn't been my experience, unless I intentionally set them up for maximum effect during movies in a home theater system, which is where I started my subwoofer journey.

@mswale  I agree with @big_greg if you heard boom boom from the SB3000 and highly likely that sub wasn’t dialed in properly.  I’m not saying it’s on the same level as the better RELs or JL Labs subs, but it’s definitely not a boom boom sub if set up properly.  Read any review — they all say it works very well for music and no mention of bloom or bloat.  The cynic in me thinks the dealer may have done that on purpose to make the pricier subs sound better because this just doesn’t sound right.  I’ve got an SB2000 and there’s no boom boom whatsoever when the volume/crossover is set properly.  Something stinks here. 

I have a 12 inch Driver subwoofer that's 25 years old from Bowers and Wilkins, ASW 2000. It's a beast.

Would it be a good idea to replace this thing? It still works but I wonder if the quality is very good at this point.

Hey Matt,

I would be careful pairing a REL with your A5’s, Most if not all REL subs incorporate a passive radiator in their designs. The passive radiator dramatically increases the decay and sustain portion of a note or beat. (The four stages of every note or drum beat are attack, decay, sustain and release) Your A5’s being a sealed cabinet design will not do that, so the bass coming out of the REL will sound much fatter than what comes out of the Magico’s and they may not blend well together.

Concerning the high level input, that was created out of necessity. Most home audio at any level, low, mid or high is not designed for the incorporation of a subwoofer. Unless you have separates, or an integrated amp that has preamp outputs and inputs, it’s pretty difficult to send a secondary line level signal to a second amplifier. So if you are a speaker manufacturer and all you make are subwoofers and you want to increase your market share what do you do? Well you create a high level connection that takes that speaker level signal, convert it back to a line level signal that an amplifier and other circuits can handle, process said signal and re-amplify it. Not the best way to make a connection but if that is the only way you can make it, at least you have an option.

James633 is giving you excellent advice.

You also may want to check out the link below.

https://www.acousticsciences.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Soundoctor-Barry-Ober-sub-integration.pdf

Taking it one step farther, Wilson and JL both use their own active crossovers with their subs. 
 

link to wilson’s. 
 

https://www.wilsonaudio.com/products/activ/activxo

Westminster Labs Shockwave, currently in 12" and 15" configurations, pending or already released new 10".  Takes the monitor speakers and even full range standing speakers to a new level of fullness and openness (bass effects highs as well).  Brilliant design and execution but not inexpensive.

mwsl

Hi Matt. Just to clarify what audiorusty advised you. The Rel T5x you were originally recommended (in your first post l believe) would not cause concern with your A5’s. The T5 range do not have the passive radiator, just a single down firing driver. Move up the T range and they do have the passive radiator.

My only concern would be if the T5x could be too small for your room but if you are thinking of a stereo pair then that is a different situation. Try one and if needed buy a second….they are not that expensive.

In one my of my replies to your post l stated that l started with a Rel Quake the basic 100 watt budget end of their range. It was very impressive with Hi-Fi and Cinema so l bought a second. They integrated so easily and once set up there was no need to endlessly fiddle. I kept them for over ten years. The T5x is about the same size as the Quake but from memory has a 150 watt amp. T5i’s are a cheaper option on the 2nd hand market too and maybe not a lot difference to the T5x.

l believe you may have moved up the Rel range in your considerations now but thought this may still be of help. The Rels are well made and the cabinet finish is exemplary.

@ Audiorusty - thanks for validating James633. It struck me as good advice as well

@ mylogic - truly appreciate your ongoing clarifications. I was originally thinking about the REL Carbon special. 

To all: I am now convinced that a pair of subs is the direction I will be going. My overall budget needs to be limited to $4k, which gives me lots of options. I’m still leaning towards Rhythmik (wish they had app control, but I’m a little less hung up on this as being a critical feature…..more of a nice-to-have rather than need-to-have). The Arendel 1723 S1’s looks like another very interesting option, given their app control and better aesthetics. 

Once again, very appreciative of the advice this group can offer. Will keep you apprised later this month post-construction (there’s going to be holes cut in our drywall to install a new window; don’t want to introduce new equipment until the construction dust settles).

@ fleschler - FYI the Shockwave subs are a Von Schweikert product. Definitely over my price point. FWIW Westminster Lab makes amplification and pre-amps.

Hello and Happy New Year, 

I’m very pleased with HSU (pronounced “shoe”)subwoofers, of which I have two.  My older HSU sub is their VTF-MKII. I recently added Dr. Hsu’s (MIT PHd -engineering) newest and most powerful model, the VTF-TN1.  Both are accurate or I like to say “tight and right”.   Dr.Hsu has been designing subwoofers for over 40 years at his small facility in Anaheim.Ca  

Rather than go into descriptive detail in this post I suggest that you visit.

https://HSURESEARCH.com

ps  I think you will also be very pleased with the prices.  Also if you call Dr  Hsu he frequently answers the phone himself.   He’s a brilliant engineer, easy to took with and is a subwoofer “whisperer”.   :)

Enjoy the music