Surge protector

@immatthewj 

Probably the one that’s included.

@erik_squires  , after years and years and years of putting it off, I think I am about ready to pull the trigger on a  Furman PST-8 myself.  I note that it comes with an 18 gauge power cord--is there any down side to using a heavier aftermarket power cord with it?

Turning off a branch circuit breaker at an electrical panel is not the same as unplugging the equipment from the wall outlet. Distance...

Take a Square D QO single pole 20 amp breaker. In the open position the two contacts are about 3/4" apart. A several 1000 Volt lightning transient will easily jump that divide...

@jea48  , would a several 1000 Volt lightning transient  be like a direct hit?

I’ve ordered the Furman PST-8 unit to protect my new subwoofers once they are installed.

+1 on that, @rvpiano  , I am going to be right behind you.  Are you going to use the cord that comes with the PST-8, as I think it is an 18 gauge cord, or are you going to put a heavier cord on it?

@immatthewj I believe you are defeating the protection that breakers provide by tripping them. Best to unplug your mains cables from the outlets. 

@vinylshadow ​​​ there is a comment up above by @jea48 and he actually addressed my question of whether a massive voltage spike could jump across an 'open' breaker, and once again, I was wrong, as @jea48  states that, 'Yes, it can, so best to unplug.'  

However, I am not sure what you mean by 

defeating the protection that breakers provide by tripping them

If I am not mistaken, the protection that a breaker provides to a circuit is that when the circuit is overloaded with too many amps the breaker reacts to the heat generated by that overload of amperage and then it trips and opens that circuit and then everything powered by that circuit is without power.  So how does me manually tripping that breaker possibly defeat the protection the breaker offers?  

I’ve ordered the Furman PST-8 unit to protect my new subwoofers once they are installed.

@immatthewj I believe you are defeating the protection that breakers provide by tripping them. Best to unplug your mains cables from the outlets. 

Nothing will protect stereo equipment with a direct lightning hit to your house.

@immatthewj What does switching off the breakers do. Don’t you want them on so they offer protection by tripping?

If you switch them off, don’t you lose their protection and allow current to flow through without impediment?

@vinylshadow , I guess I wasn’t clear. I manually trip the breaker so the circuit for my audio system is turned off. (Kind of like unplugging the components but easier.)   I don’t know if a massive voltage spike would jump across a breaker that was tripped, but I would think not.

@erik_squires Yes, it was Garth Powell who left Furman and went to Audioquest.

I also use a Niagara 1200 and have had many brownouts and complete power losses from transformers going out in the neighborhood and all of my equipment is fine (lots of new construction).

I’ve tried Tripplite and Brickwall and the Niagara is the only one I couldn’t detect a difference in regarding soundstage and dynamics. My Cullen power boxes have bettered the Tripplite and Brickwall in the same regard, equaling the Niagara, but doesn’t sound as clean as it. YMMV.

All the best,
Nonoise

I meant to say that I use a Trip Lite everywhere except my PC because I have an Uninterruptable Power Supply.

You are saying UPS automatically does surge protection?

I just got the Trip-Lite Isobar. From what I understand Surge Protector Power Strip 1700J Protection does not offer surge protection but Tripp-Lite does because something to do wit the 3 status lights

@bigtwin Never said otherwise, but most damaging surges are not direct, and I'm definitely not home about 80% of the time there's lightning around the home. 

@wharfy  We've discussed Brickwall /Zerosurge, above.  I'd suggest you look at the Wirecutter article for pros and cons.

A very useful/informative thread. I'm sorry that the OP had to endure the power surge, to make this thread happen.

Am wondering if anyone knows/has tried one of these?

David

@erik_squires   Yes.  As I read further, it appears that nothing gives protection in the event of an actual lightning strike.  Storms in the area are best handled by unplugging your system.  Cheers.

@bigtwin Not really a difference for surge protection between Type 1 and Type 2 except where it can be installed. Being type 1 is not necessarily better for your computer or stereo because they still have similar clamping voltages, but if you can install it closer to the meter you may have better luck mitigating an external surge. In theory though a Type 1 has to use more rugged parts than type 2. See linke, above.

The Siemens BoltShield I have happens to be rated for both, and still has a relatively high clamping voltage and some activation time.

In terms of meeting the NEC requirements for new home construction either location is acceptable, so long as the SPD is rated appropriately, meaning, as far as the NEC is concerned they’ll offer similar protection for your equipment regardless of where it’s installed.

You may also install both kinds, and there’s some merit in installing them at sub-panels when the sub panels are particularly far away from the main panel.

So, I return to my main thesis, that the most important part of a surge protection strategy is having a whole house surge protector AND a highly effective plug in surge protector for your sensitive gear.

Once you have done that I think the question of whether your whole house unit should be at your meter or panel becomes less important.

@ozzy  I read, I think, that the engineer who did the Furman SMP/LiFT tech went to work at Audioquest.  Maybe I'm mistaken?

I see a lot of recommendations for whole house surge protectors, but most of the talk is directed at the Type 2 unit that is easily installed at the panel.  My understanding is these units give you protection against a surge generated within the house.  All those little surges that dim the lights when an appliance turns on etc., but will give very little in the way of protection against a large surge from an external source such as Lightning strike or a local transformer blowing.  For this you really need a Type 1 protector that is installed at the meter.  It's a complicated issue and I think many of us may not have the protection we think we have.  IMHO.  Cheers. 

A couple of years ago we had a power surge from a storm. Everything that was plugged into a AQ Niagara conditioner(s) were fine. However, 2 rear JL subs were plugged directly into the wall was damaged. BTW, the front JL subs that were plugged into a Niagara 1200 were unharmed.

So, today all of my equipment, including all 4 subs are plugged into Niagara power conditioner.

BTW, I do have a whole house surge protector, but they do not protect against high/low voltage.

ozzy

Here I am In total silence due to my own neglect of a surge protector tho I have read Squire's missive numerous times. So very timely topic. Now I am waiting for my little unit to be repaired - Shipping $112, Flat fee repair $250- Peachtree- I have purchased two 8 outlet Tripps from Amazon at $72.08 each for future use. Squires you do good work. While waiting I shopped for a backup unit and upgrades and spent another $1000. Oh well my bad. Thanks for listening and get the Surge protector even if you think you don't have that much to protect.--BEST JS

@rvpiano 

What Isotech unit do you have attached to your amps? I’m guessing it tripped and saved them?

Sorry for your loss.

I want to point out something about the old Tripp Lite Isobar units.  I have at least 3 of them running around my home.  The one feature they lack is that they don't turn off when protection is spent, but the newer Tripp Lite models often do.

Check the Wirecutter article quoted above for specifics because it's one feature they list.

I absolutely believe in whole house surge suppression, however I also know that they are not enough, so I have to reply when I read:

Far superior solution and problem solved. 

The issue is clamping voltage and speed.  Whole house suppressors let much more voltage than the best surge strips.  They are meant to save your house wiring as much as your major appliances.  I know from experience of losing a laptop that they don't do very well for sensitive electronics.

I have always used BackUps brand uninterruptable power supplies with built in surge protection.  ANYTHING plugged into them is guaranteed to I believe 20 grand. If not 20, then it's  more. Do they work? Never had an issue except replacing their batteries every few years, which is to be expected. They protect against surges, brown outs and blackouts. This all makes your stuff last much longer. I have a CRT TV that's been plugged into a BackUps since it was new. Still works as good as the day I bought it and it's 24 years old. 

Are you sure there is no fuse? my plinius was a victim of power surge.Originally I thought there are only 2fuse near the IEC . To find out there are 4 more inside. OP try opening it maybe it is just a fuse, it will save you all the money and headache. Only if you are confident enough and safe for you.

Something like this will do the trick:

I have the 20 amp version myself. 
 

@immatthewj What does switching off the breakers do. Don't you want them on so they offer protection by tripping?

If you switch them off, don't you lose their protection and allow current to flow through without impediment? 

MOV's should be avoided with stereo equipment. They clip/limit full transient peaks. I sold my Richard Gray because of MOV's. 

Consider hiring a licenced electrician to install a whole-house surge protector unit into your electrical panel itself. 
Far superior solution and problem solved. 

I use Furman on all of my stereo equipment which makes me feel as comfortable as I can. Plugging equipment directly into the wall is a disaster waiting to happen and a very expensive one too I might add.

How did you diagnose the power surge? you don't seen to be a tech guy (not criticizing).  

I use a whole home surge protector,Siemens. They are relatively easy to install at the breaker box and around $200. Also good power conditioners offer a level of surge protection as well.

I have been using a SurgeX SEQ for surge protection and sequencing. So far no problems.

A surge protector will help for certain power surges. A lightning strike will likely overspeed a typical surge protector (I recall one strike at an apartment I lived in in Florida, at about 6:00 am or so on awakening, I saw a spark come from my climate control box and travel to the center of my living room carpet at the instant of the thunder, it wiped out an electronic phone I had at the time.)

Does your main breaker panel have a surge protector?(It should.) If you are going to spend money on a surge protector, start there. And while your subwoofer might seem worth protecting, so are the boards in your washing machine, air conditioner, air handler, computers, refrigerator and cooktop.

One of the benefits of the PSM136 is 

“…Massive 9,000 Amps Repetitive Rating, three-dimensional, non-sacrificial voltage surge protection…”

All sources, pre/power amps, and DAC are on the Puritan… my subs, which are not in the front, each have one of these on the wall:  

i got my puritan here: 

. Nice 45 day at home trial.  

I have alot of power filters surge protectors our power went out 5 times saturday.i might lose some sound qualitybut have not lost expensive equipment.furman has been good to me among others but best bang for the buck.enjoy the music

Really sorry to hear that. Good luck with the repairs.

I have an Isotech unit for my amps and a few other devices.

I missed that post, @rvpiano  , I guess it must have worked okay.

Power conditioning your stereo is never a bad idea. But absolutely install a whole house surge protector in your panel. In addition to your stereo. Your TVs, refrigerators, stove, washer, dryer and everything else electric are all at risk, not only of failure but also fire. 

Why don't you just take the amp boards out of the speakers and take them to be repaired? It's probably just a few screws and a couple connectors, and they probably weigh under 10 lbs, not that hard to do. 

You absolutely should have one at your breaker box , if you want something very good on a dedicated circuit then go to VH audio great for audio .

if you just want one for the whole house still have installed at the. Breaker box 

Siemens make very good ones for under $250 on Amazon I have one 

plus the top model around $1k from VH Audio , for my dedicated Audio circuit 

and I believe it has power wave form correction ,I have to lookfor the paperwork 

it works excellent the sound sounds improved day or night .

@rvpiano - Might consider doing 2 things, having whole home surge protection installed at your panel; and also getting non-sacrificial surge protection to plug the equipment into. I use ZeroSurge. I haven’t had any degradation for whatever reason(s) using one in both of my systems , and also with my main TV. And, they aren’t unreasonably expensive $290 for 8 outlets.  I had a Furman, don’t recall the model it cost $150 or so when I purchased it, it went wonky after a while and ruined a 55 inch tv

@dweller, none of the Furman’s with SMP are sacrificial though they do include an MOV for a rare edge- case surge. It almost never has a part to play in the surge protection.

Arguably the Zerosurge/Brickwall units are completely not sacrificial, but they also let more voltage through and have one wierd case they don’t cover. I talked to an engineer at length about this, and I’m afraid I forgot the full explanation. SMP, he argued, is a series mode protection with lots of similarities to Brickwall / Zerosurge PLUS an MOV just in case. So long as the SMP does it’s job the MOV never activates.

Bottom line is after the discussions I had PLUS the Wirecutter testing consider the Furman as reliable if not more, and more cost effective.

If you own a Brickwall or Zerosurge already it's an excellent choice and will give you many years of service.  It is only those users who are shopping new that should consider the alternatives.

@rvpiano If you find a true surge suppressor, make sure to determine if it is A. Resettable or B. Sacrificial. A sacrificial model may self-destruct in the act of saving your equipment. This may become expensive. 

@tvad I encourage you to read the Wirecutter reviews, which goes deep into how they tested and why Furman with SMP beat Brickwall. They also mention a number of other makers who have outstanding surge protection to what was common 20 years ago.

The actual surge performance, plus features and relative price makes it really hard for me to recommend Brickwall or ZeroSurge instead.

I won't argue that Brickwall, or Furman have lower clamping voltages than the whole house units however and that having a whole house unit won't protect the most sensitive devices.

@erik_squires 

Thank you very much for the info.  What would you suggest I use as a surge protector?

@rvpiano  , this is what   @erik_squires  told me up above in this thread:

Because Furman makes so many products it’s important to note whether they have SMP (Series Mode Protection) and LiFT (Linear Filtering). These are the two features to look out for surge protection but there are more expensive models with features like switched outlets, voltage regulation and power factor correction.

The PST-8 is around $200 and has both SMP and LiFT.