I bought a new refrigerator that holds more beer.
Do you build anything for your high fidelity system? If so, what do you make?
After some self assessment and introspection on my own high fidelity habits I discovered that I build or make things for my stereo/audio room. Some examples of these things are;
1 Tore out carpeting/padding/floor tiles in the addition to my house (audio room) and painted the cement floor with epoxy paint and clear coat. Placed out a Turkish area rug.
2 Made cherry wood speaker stands on wheels.
3 Had made custom speaker covers and stereo stand covers for when I am not listening to audio to keep away dust. Thanks to my seamstress....
4 Custom made Paduak wood cover (with legs) with two low speed exhaust fans for my tube amp
So curiosity got the best of me. Have you made anything for you stereo system or room? If so what did you make and why?
79 responses Add your response
@4krowme I felt the exact same way about incuding photos. Why don't they make it easy? Well, someone gave me the steps to use ImgPile and I though it was complicated. Turns out it is only one extra step from importing directly from your computer. You just have to make a free account with ImgPile and pop your picture into there. Then it's one cut & paste of the image address and the picture is there. You can see mine a few post above. If I can master the technology, anyone can. Stop fighting it and start posting all the photos you want to. 😁 |
| Post removed |
Hey guys, What a great thread! I’m not sure if I’m breaking any rules but I would personally like to share some thing with everyone that I’ve been working on for the past 2 1/2 years.This thread seems like the perfect opportunity.
Some of you know me some of you don’t, i’ve been around now for about three years. I’m fully retired, 55, ended up becoming handicap five years ago and I’ve been looking for a project Since I can’t do my first love, mountain biking. I guess this thread is a great place to announce it. When I was a kid in the 1980s I loved all things audio. I took about a 30 year hiatus and just listen to whatever systems were in my vehicle. My wife didn’t like the whole speaker system thing in the living room so I just gave in and sold it. After my accident I sold one of my businesses and kept one. I’ve been pretty fortunate and worked hard through the years. I still like to work, just not at the same pace I used to. So,here’s what happened. While driving myself nuts (after purchasing my 4th speaker system in 1 year) I decided to do what I’ve done many times in the past. Woke up one day with my own idea. I asked myself what was missing from audio that mountain biking had. The answer for me was, since I’m not an electronics wizard, I can’t get my hands involved in the hobby except for turning a couple knobs. So I asked myself how can I get my hands involved in this hobby?well, I think I solved it. The name of the new business is Blueprint Acoustic llc. The website shares the same name and social media. I’ve looked hard and I don’t think it’s ever been done quite this way before. It’s an affordable, expandable, collapsible, changeable, modular speaker system. We even have built a CONFIGURATOR on the website that lets you build one of over 10,000 variations of speaker systems. You can start small…and add on later, order different modules and switch them out, experiment with different driver modules….. We have been building all different sizes and have been astounded at what we’ve learned and how great they sound. We are moving into the marketing phase.everything is ready to go, we are stocked up, everyone is in place, we are open for business. I’m looking forward to building what will probably be my last successful business. I hope you keep an open mind and find the idea as fun as I do. Never second-guess your speaker purchase again! www.blueprintacoustic.com
thank you for the privilege of your time, Ray
|
Two things got me into building my own starting at an early age. 1) money, and 2) Getting screwed hard from just enough audio specialists. It isn't always about doing the job better myself, it is more about knowing what actually goes into the finished product. So, speaker building, and preamps, power amps, crossovers, phono preamps and so much more have kept me busy over the years. I wouldn't have it any other way looking back on the whole thing.
BTW, I would love to post photos, and have done so for my audio system page here, but at the forum, forget it? Make something that serves all of us, not the just the tech crowd. Just something that I can drag a photo from my desktop. You say, 'it's easy, all you gotta do is this, then this, then that, then more.... Same thing that I could to someone in my woodshop, or my electronics shop. It's easy.
|
Interesting topic. While I didn’t actually sit down with a soldering iron and perform the work myself, I did have a long discussion with the engineers at Jolida Audio (now Black Ice) about modifying a Jolida Glass FX DAC DSD to my exact specifications. We settled on a blend of mods starting with a factory Level 1 upgrade which is simple upgrades to resistors, diodes, capacitors and vacuum tubes (the Glass FX DAC uses 12AX7 tubes in the analog pre-amp section to “sweeten” the D/A conversion) upgrade. Then I requested that they add a ByBee Rail. The ByBee Music Rail reduces the noise floor with internal power conditioning. Last, I replaced the standard Mullard Gold Lion tubes with Tung-Sol Gold Tips for a slightly brighter output. |
Great thread! I get a lot out of adding "handwork" that helps my systems sound and look good. For example: -Rebuilding a Lenco L75 in a custom designed phenolic resin plinth -Designing and building custom stands for my Quads -Building custom stands for Monitor Audio MA-3's, modeled after an Audio Note design. -Adding an exotic hardwood faceplate to an old tube amp pulled from a console . . . Fun, fun, fun! |
Back in the 80's a friend built for me a retro looking equipment cabinet using 3/4" solid oak plywood. After I moved in my home, I built two storage cabinets and record shelves (hold about 800 records) on top of them using MDF. Recently, I re-build the basement dedicated room, install all new drywalls, new drop down ceiling (wife not let me use drywall) and re-wire 5 outlets to a dedicated circuit. Ran wires ready for 7.2.4 HT speakers, outles for a ceiling mount projector and electrical drop down screen. Also install smart light swithes to control two lighting zone. While doing the demo, I found out the drain tile contractor did not re-pour concrete under the two outside walls and only nail metal brackets on the floor joint and the wall frame to hold up one long wall (19') and let the other shorter wall (12') just drop down more than an inch!! Besides that, the previous home owner only use 2x2 to frame these two walls!! So, I have to take them down completely, pour concrete before rebuilding them. But the worst, was the egress windows, the two old windows have metal rough frame and some spots were rusted through. No window installers were willing to touch the metal frame, they only replace the windows. Contacted some welders asking them to cut out the rusted metal and weld new metal sheet on the cut out spots, only two are willing to do that but asking for $3000 and $6000!! So, I bought a Dremel and some metal cutting wheels, a 12"x8" stainless steel sheet, lot of sanding papers, some J-B Weld steel reinforceed proxy, and a bottle of rust converter. With a harmer, a metal filer and lot of elbow grease, I got the frames fixed for less then $150! |
After spending great time and effort looking for the 'right' stand to hold my gear, I finally designed and built a stand to meet MY standards/size/needs. Frame consists of angle iron. Shelves are 1.25" thick cherry wood. Bottom unit has two drawers for basic storage, vinyl brush, stylus cleaner, zerostat etc. Each shelf can be adjusted in 1/2" increments. Each shelf is isolated with Isolatit rubber disks. It is quite heavy and on appliance wheels to allow it to be rolled out, making it easier to hook up equipment. Very solid. |
Years ago, I made a 6 shelf equipment stand using oak plywood (from Lowe's) and applied edging, stained it many times, applied some Urethane clear coat. Used 6-foot long black anodized threaded rods (McMaster Carr), wide stainless steel washers, nuts, and a rubber washer underneath them at each joint. Added casters (need larger ones now). In the rear I added some PVC conduit to route the cables to keep it looking "neat" for WAF. If I had to do it over, I'd probably go for a 4-foot or 5-foot tall one instead. |
Speaking of Dynaco units, I have the ST150 that was personally built by the person who wrote the very first technical article in the very first issue of the JAES, January 1952. (Journal of the Audio Engineering Society). One of those accidents of fate, where you see an advert and you answer it. And then run into this given person.... |
Lol long list. The stereo room in the last two homes the current one has 5/8 OSB then a layer of 5/8 fire rated drywall. Six dedicated powerlines with the wire crossed over it self so nothing runs parallel. All the wires the same length. The wall behind the speaker has a slight upwards angle the front corners of the room are angles off as well the ceiling rises a bit for the first eight feet. Stands under speakers. Diffusion panels bass traps absorption panels. Equipment stands furutech receptacle s put in power cords assembly. Amp stands arial mounting bracket. Lp holder cd cases. 78 case. Wall mount turntable shelf. Lol that's just the shortlist. As far as why i believe dense wood makes the best equipment stand that being said I make them out of thick slabs of either rosewood or purple heart. Also I have used walnut and bamboo planks in secondary system s. And of. Of course monetary reasons as well. Cheaper to make than to buy the ones built in lessor material. The base traps I made so I could vary the amount of suction they have so they are tunable. Signs telling people not to touch LoL. Spikes for stands as well.
Regards |
I built my power amp using the Neurochrome 686 units using a 1000 VA medical grade transformer and 4 x 51,000uF 100V 18,000 hrs at 85C of filter capacitance using 160 amp bridge rectifiers, which has about 0.6 volts fwd V drop so that their heat generation was virtually non existent even at very high currents. Since Orchard audio has recently introduced v3 of his Starkrimson Ultra class D GaN amplifiers, and since those also work with only +/- 36 volts DC (exactly the same voltage the Neurochromes were working with), I am planning on changing the Neurochromes with those to see how much difference in the sound and/or heat generation there is. Stay tuned.
|
I hope this thread will inspire more to boldly go the extra mile. For my system and room, it would be much easier to list what I did not modify or build or design myslef. Well, that list contains 0 items - I have nothing "stock", all the purchased items are heavily modified, and are in strong minority compared to what designed and built. One thing I would like to point out is the room treatment: walls are treated with the triple system of: mass loaded vinyl - green glue - quietrock drywall. This is the method used in movie theatres to isolate one room from the other. Each layer provides isolation at different frequencies, the end result is astonishing, provides approximately 65dB additional isolation for the walls. Here in the US, most homes are built with absolutely no respect for sound-proofing, and in every single apartment (here in HI) this has been a vital issue for all my friends systems. The soundproofing allows me to play music at any time and at any volume. Pretty sweet as my neighborhood has strict quiet hours policies. The difference is not just for loud music. It also dropped the noise floor tremendously, which allows listening to music more quietly with more enjoyment, and also listening at super low levels. The third HUGE advantage of proper room treatment is DEEP BASS. Finally, I can enjoy not only deep bass, but infrasonic bass - while untreated homes are basically midbass sources, have problems reaching down to deep bass, and not a chance for infrasound. (My room supports down to 13Hz). |
| Post removed |
| Post removed |
| Post removed |
| Post removed |
I'm a furniture guy, so mostly I've built consoles and speaker stands. This is the latest version of the main room system, though the Mrs has taken to transitioning party games in there. 🤨 It was not built for separates so I guess it is also in transition... Kicked out the home theatre set up and am enjoying 2 channel for that. The speaker stands were house jacks I rescued from a dumpster, did a little adjusting and put a nice finish on them. I've been on a simplification kick, so trying to get the gear down to an absolute minimum. Will go integrated next. That will leave just the integrated, Node 2i and router. Once that happens I can get the gear out of the corner and let that left speaker breathe better.
|
Hello 2psyop! I made passive "preamps," power amps & power supplies, speakers (from Linkwitz plans & others), passive crossovers, and speaker cables & interconnecting cables. Why? It's less expensive & more educational. It's also easier than you think. You can buy the output modules from PuriFi that NAD uses, build your own power supply and have fabulous performance for around $1200. Or you can buy the Starke AD4-320 for about the same price and save a lot of work. Shielded power cords are available from Parts Express for under $5! You don't have to go broke to have great sound in your home. Electronic crossovers are available for under $100. Your speakers will sound better directly connected to the amps fed by the elect. xovers. Yes you do need more amps, but power amps are relatively cheap, especially if you build them yourself. Check out Atikita and EleKit. Be brave, go DIY. |
@jond Thank you. I’m notorious for effin’ stuff up, the HiFi Gods blessed me on this one. 😁 @curiousjim Thanks! on the shelf is a Denafrips Terminator and Aurender N100SC. |
Some major improvements: - passive crossovers replaced with active, allowing for a multi-amp system - dedicated AC lines with #8 wire and regenerated power - equipment rack with hollow vertical tubes filled with lead - added 160 lbs of lead to each speaker, added 100 lbs lead to each sub
Planning on adding Rockwool insulation to attic and interior walls to help achieve my goal of 30 dB ambient noise level.
|
@jl1ny Fantastic job on your rack thanks for posting a pic! I can't DIY but would love to see pics of some of these projects guys. |
Needing more room on top, I took a 4X2 foot 3/4 inch plywood blank and replaced the top shelf of a generic four-shelf equipment stand. Now I have plenty of room for my turntable and all the gizmos for playing vinyl. Also, got an eight-foot aluminum "C" channel (should have got an "L" channel) made cuts and bent it around the plywood (to hide the edge laminations). Will probably paint the wood in the future. |
I usually don’t mess with stuff but I couldn’t justify spending $$$ on a rack so I modified my Pottery Barn end table into a HiFi rack using thick slabs of reclaimed wood to fabricate a shelf for my Dac/Streamer and a plinth for the amp to sit upon. Anti-vibration material (Herbies Audio Lab) is fitted under the shelf, amp slab and the table/rack feet. I think it turned out rather well!
|
We bought a house on the lake that needed a lot of attention. With that in mind I rebuilt the entire house. Almost 6 inches of closed cell spray foam in the floors. Closed cell foam in the exterior walls. Open cell foam in the attic and layer acoustic batting on all trusses from one end of the house to the other. All interior walls are insulated. Used cork floors throughout the house. Used all double pain low e impact windows. Also cut the entire top off of the fire place stereo rack and rebuilt the top to fit the equipment. I did all of the things to this house that I always wanted to do to every house that I lived in. This one gave me the opportunity as it needed rehab. Acoustic bliss! |
Dacs are not a big deal. You can use existing models as a template. Doing such complex involved beasts from scratch makes you a prototyper(ist)(ish) for manufacturing, so it’s bit far down the rabbit hole, there. If indeed you went that way. These days it would involve using software for circuit layouts and then a whole bunch of ancillary skills and lore, so yes, a real pain. The vast majority of all executions of modern complex chips, in a given circuit, involve a perfect copy of the orignal chip utilization tech manual’s suggestions. No one wants to take risks these days via any variances in the proffered employment/utilization of given chips. None of them ever did, actually. In this specific case..this turns most engineers and engineering the world of modern complex electronic (audio) circuitry (when working for large firms)... into elevated technicians or technologists, not engineers. Glorified rubber stamp board swappers. No one steps out of their lane of expected competence any more. Pity. Re mods, using selected models for modification, where most of it is in place as a starting point, is useful. It invariably makes a (hands on modifier) person far more adventurous than most any main manufacturer these days. What I means is... you can open up any Denon, Yamaha, Sony, JVC, NAD, Marantz, etc etc..and you will se the exact same utilization and layout and parts count and parts type, around any ESS, AKM, TI, etc..digital chip and so on, in all of them. That is a large part of why they can sound so similar. Within the scope of chip utilization, they are similar. Exceedingly so. None of them will take any form of a risk in the build and execution of the given gear that is built out of so many complex ICs. The same thing, for the most part, happens around the idea of Class D amplifiers, to an extreme. The entire amplifier board comes in, fully assembled/finished, and then they stuff it into a box, with some power supply and some speaker jacks, maybe a relay. That is now called ’amplifier manufacturing’, in the world of Class D. I think it is a bit of a joke. Designing a functional and good sounding Class D amplifier circuit, and executing it well is no small task, mind you. so we end up where things in class D models and companies..is more a case of box stuffing than anything else. This consideration makes such manufacturers more of a ’Dynaco kit assembler’ kinda manufacturer, akin to taking dynaco kits and swapping faceplates and boxes out and somehow calling it ’manufacturing’ of audio gear. Even then, with the older less complex analog based circuits, more builders would be closer to true manufacturing as they would take chances and make modifications and parts changes involving the given circuit. |
I for one would like to see MORE PHOTOS of some of this cool stuff!!!!! It's very easy to post photos (create a system) here. doesn't need to be anything more than what you want to show. delete/add photos at any time https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/10186/edit
|
@asvjerry , Black Locust is usually used for decking and fence posts. Carbide will cut it fine but like Teak it has silica in it which dulls carbide blades fast. This is why woodworkers avoid it. We also (except for the Danish) tend to avoid teak. Most of it goes into boats and they are probably using diamond tooling to deal with it. @buellrider97 , I started out just like you building DynaKits. It is great to have a group of people who are willing to mix it up and treat this like a real hobby. |
The current moving-coil phono preamp, 50-watt center channel amplifier, and 120-wpc left rear/right rear stereo amplifier (Published in Audio Xpress magazine) are all of my design and construction. In the past, the front left/right 100-watt pure class A monoblocks were also of my design and construction (See Audio Magazine's January, February, and March 1995 issues for construction details). Prior to purchasing McIntosh MC611 600-watt monoblocks 1-1/2 years ago, the front channel amps were ten Harmon Kardon Citation II tube amps configured by me to deliver 500 wpc, the details for which AudioXpress magazine published. The listening room was configured in live end/dead end configuration and front 'speakers configured according to a formula I ran across, but acoustics is not my forte. 'Speakers are B&W 802D's, which are excellent in my opinion. |
