@jmk2
Priceless...
Good call sending it in! I’m glad you didn’t trash it! |
That is one heavily marked up fuse, but good to hear. You were lucky. The other devises you haven't fried yet are designed for 110 or 220, either works. Most things are not. Read the labels on your equipment, this tells you what you need to know! |
Time to buy a new one ....you cooked it... |
So I've enjoyed the confident pronouncements of my receiver's certain death. But for €30, the hi-fi shop down the street replaced the fuse, and the unit is good as new.
My thanks to slsemans2, who had the correct answer.
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Treat 220v with respect, it will kill you. Luckily you are not toast like the unit.
With different plugs and sockets across Europe for 220v I guess you went with two prongs, a live and neutral and no ground......not safe, especially when you unplugged the cable, had the breaker not tripped the cable could have melted in you hand. The breaker should have tripped immediately? |
Ok. I can see clearly that you need some good advise, no one has done so, so I’ll jump in...
Before you remove the cover to see what fried, UNplug the receiver from the wall socket.
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Better the receiver then you receiving 220 volts, it is after all, just a receiver. The only thing in my home that runs on 220 volts is the electric water heater and and there is a severe warning about about electric shock that can kill. Always check your component's set voltage. Too bad it wasn't switchable.
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How can you plug a 110V device into a 220V outlet be cause the plugs are different. Second, I'm pretty sure that the power supply is toasted. Unfortunately, power supply is one of the expensive part in your receive. Only the manufacturer may have the replacement part.
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Good , you got lucky now you can buy an nice intergraded gear and not the mid fi thing you blew up
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@millercarbon always wants you to spend your money like it was his.
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Next time make sure you check the voltage requirements before plugging it in. If you would have noticed it was set for 120 or 110 you could have returned it or purchased a voltage converter to use with it.
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I hate it when that happens. I know an audio technician in St. Louis who is apparently able to fix almost anything. I visit him often, because sometimes things break, especially if you have ten systems. I hesitate to give his name, because if he is too busy, I would have less access. He even fixed a broken Oppo 83 that I got for free from a colleague.
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All electronic components run on smoke. If you let the smoke out, they don't work anymore...
That being said, I'd open it up to see what fried. The power transformer should have been protected by the fuse. Often, there is a power line conditioning circuit/components prior to the fuse. If not rated for the higher voltage, that's what smoked. Relatively inexpensive repair.
Look before tossing. |
Good for you, JMK. Some of these jerks need to be bitten back. |
You could spend $10k on a AVR and find ten $500 integrateds that will absolutely kill it in sound quality
OK, I’ll bite. I want to be able to - switch between various HDMI video sources
- stream audio & video from AirPlay, Spotify Connect, and ChromeCast
- listen to FM radio
- drive a pair of 4Ω Totem Rainmakers
How do I do that for $500 with better sound than an expensive AVR? |
My phone, my tablet, two laptops and a desktop computer all handled the voltage change without a problem. Didn't occur to me that the power supply inside my receiver would be less capable. Now I know... Now you know why I say the lowest of the low in all of audio is the receiver- and the lowest receiver is the AVR. You simply cannot do worse. No amount of money will get you a "good" one. They are cram packed with as much pure cheap crap as they can fit in the box. You could spend $10k on a AVR and find ten $500 integrateds that will absolutely kill it in sound quality. The whole HT industry is a huge marketing scam devoted to selling people on the worst possible sound quality. |
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None of the devices you listed have a power transformer, designed (or wired) for one specific voltage. A transformer designed/connected for 120V + plugged into 240V = toast (typically). |
power supply inside my receiver would be less capable.
Power supplies in receivers are a joke. Lesson learned. Oz |
What I do not follow-If you knew enough to post an inquiry here,
is this your first visit?
My phone, my tablet, two laptops and a desktop computer all handled the voltage change without a problem. Didn't occur to me that the power supply inside my receiver would be less capable. Now I know... |
What I do not follow-If you knew enough to post an inquiry here,
is this your first visit?
This from a guy who fried his TV and Oppo two weeks back!! |
You pretty much destroyed it.
You need a step down transformer next time, unless the device supports multi voltages. |
twoleftears is correct... the repair will cost more or close to a new unit. lucky you this one is not the top of the line . The lesson is priceless! |
Thanks for all the entertaining responses. Sounds like I should have no problem getting it fixed. I've wrapped the whole thing in duct tape, and I'm going to plug it back in...
Actually, if anybody has a good suggestion for a replacement, I'd appreciate it -- my Rainmakers look nice enough, but I'd rather hear them. (But it does have to be a network-capable receiver with HDMI. Surround sound not necessary.)
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If it's a receiver you need, in Europe, I would get a Cambridge Audio SR20 or whatever the new series is called. You won't get HDMI inputs, but you will get a competent, multi-voltage receiver for moderate Euros. |
1. What did I break? Can't be sure without going in to troubleshoot. But you saw smoke, A Lot.
A fuse? More than likely.
A capacitor? Probably
Everything? No. The cabinet, foots, panel knob and buttons are still good.
2. What’s the best way to get it back up and running here in Europe?
Get IT back up running? Money hope and prayers.
Get YOU back up running? Money.
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BBQ'd any other devices?
"...I love the smell of fried circuitry in the evening gloom...."
Once upon a time, some equipment had that small 'fail-safe' switch that read '110vac><220vac' by the line cords' strain relief.
If one was lucky, and it was new, the 'gender bender' plug that allowed for Euro wall sockets...
...but I guess I'm just showing my age....*tapping cattle-prod cane on the floor softly to a beat* |
Once the magic smoke is released....... |
I thought the different plug design doesn't allow you to do this kind of damage.
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Most likely took out a few capacitors and resistors and probably the output device. Hard to tell. Pop the top and see what the damage is. Check the transformer.
Good luck. |
The above beat me to the punch....it would not have even fit the receptacle...a step down transformer may be a good investment in future. |
Not meaning to pour salt in the wound, but the unit would not have even plugged into the wall with a North American plug. I've lived and worked in Europe for years. You had to have used an adaptor.
Anyway, as previous posters have concluded, you are done here. This is an opportunity to buy a souvenir, most likely for use ONLY in Europe. Unless you purchase something like Rega which is so familiar with the North American market that everything could easily be converted upon return to North America. Best of luck
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Sorry for your bad news JMK. But don’t let these guys get you down. I’ll bet most of them learned by doing the same damned thing, or something pretty much like it.
I know a very senior electronics genius - control systems for big time nuke research - and he calmed me down after one of my disasters, saying, "How do you think I already knew that?"
If you learned from the episode, that’s plenty good enough. Write it off and move on. Good luck with the replacement! |
It's junk, man. Use this as an opportunity to go with separates, and never look back.
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I’m sure there are lots of used receivers available on ebay Europe, but as others have offered, why not use this as an opportunity to upgrade to a nice integrated amp? Do you really need/use the tuner and the AV functions? Ultimately it’s your choice ~ choose wisely. |
I'd have to look, just my nature. Now if the cover is welded on, lol
that might slow me down.. But I'd have to look..
THEN go get yourself a different unit, all kinds of options now.
I take it if you move again, you will check the next time, going the other way? I'm just making sure..
Regards |
It's toast. And definitely not worth even trying to get repaired, even if that were possible. |
this^^^^!!!Find a good integrated and never look back.
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Consider this karma telling you not to buy a receiver next time. |
If the unit does not say it can handle 220v, then do not plug it in.
As soon as the equipment is witnessed to have a power transformer in it, which is partially indicated by the great mass of the unit, then it is designed to have ONE voltage used. Just one single voltage. It might have been internally re-wireable to handle 220VAC, but we’re past that now.
You blew it all to ratfecal, I’m afraid.
It is junk. Big time, junk. Dumpster material, for sure. I’m fanatical about saving gear..but that one is a perfect dumpster candidate.
I’ve fixed a lot of audio gear (thousands), and I do this as it gives me insight on the market, with respect to design vs execution vs time. I get to understand all the mistakes that can be made.
And I’d toss that unit, I’d not even bother to open it up .....unless I wanted to amuse myself with what electronic hamburger/chum looks like.
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If you got smoke, you did some serious damage. Take it to a repair shop.
Erik
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