Suggestions for a holographic preamp?


I'm looking to replacing my Herron Audio tube line stage with something else, not because of a problem with the sound, but for a few other reasons.

I do both digital and analog, and have a Herron Audio tube phono preamp. My power amp is an MSB S-200, which is awesome, and my speakers are Marten Parker Duos, which are wonderful for a deep, holographic soundstage that I like so much.

I listen mostly to rock and reggae, and I'm looking to keep the price under $10K US, and I'm fine with a used one as well.

I get the feeling that I will need a tube preamp to get that holographic sound, but perhaps there are some SS ones that do as good a job?

The fellow I work with at The Music Room suggested a ModWright LS-100 or a used PS Audio BHK preamp; I've researched and they both look like they'd fit the bill, but I'd like to hear your suggestions, too! 

larsman

CAT would be Convergent Audio Technology, and the preamp would be an SL1. It’s been around awhile, so there are iterations.

https://www.catamps.com/

daveyf has it.

@daveyf - I looked it up and it seems like a great preamp, but it has no remote control, and as I'm constantly having to change volumes and mute during the course of a TV/music session, it would not work for me. Thanks again for the suggestion; I had heard of Convergent Technologies, just not the CAT acronym. 

The CAT is a minimalist preamp, which is totally by design. Ken Stevens, ( Mr CAT) believes that things like a remote control are not what one wants IF one is interested solely in SQ. I agree with him.

@daveyf - makes total sense; that's why Keith Herron was reluctant to have a remote with his preamps until his customers demanded it, so he gave us this cheap tiny thing. Alas, I'm not interested SOLELY in SQ; I've got to be able to live with it functionally and practically as well. I was checking out Aric Audio's tube preamps, and he's the same way - no remote, all purity, but not for me. 

@larsman   I believe the Aric Mother Lode preamp does have a remote control. Volume control, but no mute. 

In my opinion, meaningful spatial imaging requires accurate speakers - rock solid phase accuracy through crossover regions and minimal coloration.

If you don't have that, a preamp is not going to deliver it.

ATC come to to mind

I have the BHK pre with none of the issues cited. Works wonderfully, comes with a great remote and compatible with my Harmony One universal remote. 

The comment by Soix about holographic imaging was exactly what I had in mind when I made my comment about the Rogue RP-7 and RP-9 preamps.

 

i have also heard good things about the Backert preamps in this regard.

I've never heard of a good universal remote (basic good, as in something from URC or ProControl) not being able to learn IR codes from another remote.  More than likely, an existing IR codes set was used for those remotes, especially if it is a small manufacturer.  It could be something as simple as a code set from an old Sony Trinitron tube TV.  It wouldn't matter.  As long as the receiving IR chipset can "see" and interpret the codes sent from the remote, it would work.

If the remote is RF, (rare, but possible) then that can be a different can of worms.  At that point, the OEM remote would be the easiest way to go.

@daveyf - Right again, Davey (and @soix ); I don't know why he couldn't have put a 'Mute' button on there - all I really require is volume and mute. 

@oliver_reid - I have Marten Parker Duos - they deliver that in spades; they do with my current preamp. 

@signaforce - if I go the PS Audio route, it would be to audition the new PMG Signature preamp.

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I've researched all the suggestions you all have made, thank you, and as of right now, I'm leaning towards a home audition of a Backert Rhumba Extreme 1.4 and/or an LTA MicroZOTL Level 3. 

@paradisecom The harmony remotes with hubs are great. No longer sold, but still supported (and available used) with most major components supported and learning. I have 3, 2 with hubs (harmony ultimate) on my 2 systems & and one (700) without a hub in the master. Been using them for years. Solid app, very reliable. A web site that provides all supported components. The hub allows you to control components inside a closed cabinet or components that do not have line of sight. It comes with two “hub extenders” for multiple cabinets or on top of your cabinet for your TV,  

I have a rather nice system, all Rock and roll ONLY. Pass X250.8 and Bricasti M1 SE DAC with network card. Wont go into all the other pieces. Both systems controlled by Benchmark LA-4 preamps. 30 day trial period, made in Upstate NY 3K or so, Phone always  answered by a human (RORY, IS GREAT TO DEAL WITH. Adjustable gain, etc. Quality in and out!  Robert TN

BTW, I found the email and this is what Keith Herron says about his remote:

I am not aware of a universal remote that will work with the 360.  Our remote changes the code (a toggle bit) every other time you push the buttons (except for the volume level - and +).  This prevents switching back and forth when holding the button in too long.

@larsman 

I agree with the earlier post about your room being vital for the sound you want. Address any issues with it first. If you are considering SS Boulder is extremely good albeit neutral. I use their app on my tablet for volume control and it works great ! Good luck! 

I don't know why he couldn't have put a 'Mute' button on there - all I really require is volume and mute. 

@larsman Many mute circuits have the potential to mess with the sound.

Since your amp has a balanced input you might consider a balanced preamp as well. If you do, its helpful if that preamp supports AES48, the balanced line standard. The standard helps prevent the interconnect cable from having a 'sound' (coloration). There are not many tube balanced preamps that support the standard. Many audiophiles don't realize how important that is; getting rid of cable interactions in the system opens up transparency which contributes to a more holographic sound stage. 

@atmasphere - Wow, thanks for all that great information! And yes, I was leaning towards a balance preamp as well, so it can take advantage of the balanced XLR output of my DAC.  

Is there some spec I should look for to see if it supports that standard? 

A Post follows that was made in 2019.

"  In his Positive Feedback review of the EAR-Yoshino 868L line stage pre, the reviewer made the statement that, though the 868 provides XLR jacks for balanced operation, the pre-amp circuitry itself is single-ended. Designer Tim deParavicini in his manufacturer reply corrected the reviewer, stating that no, the 868 is a true balanced design. It is a commonly-held understanding by audiophiles and semi-pro hi-fi reviewers that a true balanced amp by definition has doubled parts. As atmasphere just said, that is a misconception and misunderstanding of what balanced is. A pre-amp can have single-ended circuits yet be true balanced in operation.

The real concern in any piece of gear is how the balanced inputs/outputs are implemented. In the EAR 868, Paravicini accomplished that goal via transformers. In his Music Reference RM-200, Roger Modjeski does so with a resistor network. Companies with lower standards typically create balanced inputs/outputs with the dreaded opamp, and with the expected sonic compromise. A higher retail price does not necessarily buy one balanced ins and outs NOT created with opamps. If possible, inspect the schematic of any piece of balanced gear you are considering buying, to see how it’s balanced connections are created, and if they conform to AES48. " 

The Following is the Industry Info that can be investigated.

https://www.aes.org/publications/standards/search.cfm?docID=44

@pindac - I checked out that link, and they've got those documents, but you've got to buy them. If it was electronics stuff, I wouldn't know what I was looking at anyway. 

I don't mind 'coloration' - I usually quite like it; I'm more interested in how the music makes me feel than how accurately it reproduces what the producer laid down. 

 @laaudionut - I might just do that; he might have some kind of solution to accomplish a remote muting functionality; I'm sure he's been asked about it before.

@larsman 

sweet speakers and amplifier!  

i suggest my current preamp- the two chassis Cary Audio SLP-05 if you want a truly spatial sound stage.  

no matter which amp I have used with it over the years it never fails to deliver a huge top to bottom side to side sound stage with detailed cues of the location of musical elements in space.  

there are many NOS 6SN7 tubes you can swap as well as NOS GZ34 tube power rectifier.  All class A triode design with ultra low noise from the 2nd chassis power supply with premium R-core transformer.  The sound is also incredibly energetic and dynamic.  

@avanti1960 - thank you! Actually, quite a long time ago I had a modded SLP-05, and my other gear was different then too, but it just didn't do it for me as much as I'd have liked. Could have been any number of factors, but I did give it a go! 

@larsman check out space tech lab, there are many preamps to choose from on the website, Al the owner can customize any one of his models also. I like his reference series of preamps, he even has an 845 tube preamp, but that only has balanced outputs and no remote. Many of his models have remote and I'm pretty sure he can incorporate a mute function also. I have one of his lower model preamps, but it has great 3D sound and is also dynamic. He uses power tubes on the output stage of quite a few of his preamps.

@invalid - I just checked out their website, and their product list is overwhelming! I'm not going to be doing any direct buys from Canada anyway (I love Canada, I just don't want to deal with international stuff).

And 1997 is calling them and it wants its web style back! That has to be one of the worst looking websites I've seen in a decade or more; they really should consider hiring a web developer to do an upgrade to the 21st century. 

@larsman One other tip when investigating preamps:

The output impedance is usually specified at 1KHz. But if you want to have the preamp play bass as well as it does the midrange, the output impedance at 20Hz is nice to know too. 

If the preamp has output coupling caps or an output transformer, its likely its output impedance is much higher at 20Hz; particularly in the case of the former.