Has anyone switched from Class AB/A to Class D? Was it better? Was it worse?

I've been in this hobby 50+ years..I've owned them all.Class A Single Ended Tubes,Class A Single Ended SS,Class A/B PP Tubes & SS,Class A Hybrid & Class A/B Hybrid & I will admit,I WAS a Class snob!
 Recently,in preparation for a move across the planet,I've sold off everything, & now my sole & only amp is the WONDERFUL,Class D,Creek 4040a driving tiny little ProAc Tablette Anniversaries via Tellurium Q Black II cables...
 In the same room I once had large 3 way tower speakers or Harbeth M30.2Xd speakers,driven by any one of the above mentioned amps,I now revel in the mighty mouse sized expatriate system that will most likely take me to my grave(yea I am OLDDDD)...
 In all honesty with myself & you the OP,the Creek is as lucid & organic as any of the Class A SE amps,images & stages as well as any of the all tube amps and,has BASS that just absolutely blows me away..The miniscule ProAcs,with a modicum of volume,pump out bass that absolutely defies the laws of physics!DEEP,tight,textured & detailed beyond any & all my expectations!
 REGRETS?
ABSOLUTELY none!
 If there are moments while I listen I wonder,did something sound as good as I had it in the past,I walk over & pick up the less than 5 lb.amp & marvel at the beautiful Rosewood finish on speakers I can fit in a shoebox with room for cables left over..From a performance standpoint I see it as a sideways move that netted me size & weight benefits that I will absolutely be grateful for as the few remaining years I have left come & go...Oh & did I mention I banked several thousand $ from the downsizing!
 

I'm no longer convinced that talking about "Class A" vs. "Class D" etc. is all that helpful. Implementation designs vary in sound character so much that's it's almost like asking, "Has anyone listened to any 5' 5" musicians? I used to like them but now I listen to 6' 10" musicians. Anyone else make the switch?"

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/class-d-amplification

Check out the comment made by @atmasphere dated 5/5/25.

It depends, but when someone like Ralph @atmasphere builds a GaN amp it’s a pretty strong indicator it’s a legit technology.  As always, it comes down to personal preferences.  I’ve heard Class A/B amps sound sterile and Class D amps sound utterly musical, so again it depends.  Why are you so against room correction?  I heard Lyngdorf’s RC and it was pretty awesome.  

When the air conditioner in my small house could not keep up with the heat input from my Pass XA30.8, (ok, slight exaggeration), I said to myself this is ridiculous and I don’t care how much I liked the sound. Additionally, moving the 75 lb hulk every time the wife wanted to move furniture was equally ridiculous.

I went to a Hypex based class D amp that weighed 13 lbs but I was not crazy about the edgy sound. Then I went to a Benchmark AHB2 which is class H or something, and never looked back. It is a compact powerhouse.

So in summary, my motivation was more about convenience than sound but it worked out well in the end once I discovered Benchmark. Sometimes I miss the Pass sound but not enough to ever go back.

Amplifier class is just that. A different topology and implementation.

Doesn't correlate with sound quality at all and yes I use Class D.

Remember Class is  moniker for different topology. It is not a grading system

Doesn't correlate with sound quality at all and yes I use Class D.

Agree, much of the time. Since Class D is relatively new and the kinks are still getting worked out, I think there is some correlation to sound quality – but as you point out, not because of the topology, per se.

If someone said to you, "You can can have one free amplifier worth $1000 and we won't tell you which brand or topology it is," what would you choose to ensure the best possible sonic outcome? At $1000, I'd choose Class A/B.

Well, the main reason to buy a Lyngdorf amp is for Room Perfect, but that said, I look at amps like DACs. They have one purpose: to reproduce what is given to them accurately. Changing the character of your sound should be done at the preamp level. Enjoy!

@ntpc4 someone gets it

I tried Ralph's Atma Class D. It sounded pretty good. The bass was excellent, but the upper frequencies just seemed 'off'. (Which I put down to feedback). -And, I still own Atmasphere tubed amp and pre.

For me, it will be Class A/AB for the while...

Bob

I’ve always been a tube guy myself. However being in this business, you have to hear different technologies. In the beginning, Class D did not sound all that good as it was a new technology. They really have come a long way but like everything else, there are good and bad examples out there. I am a Class D fan (GaN FET) but I do not limit myself. If I like it, I’ll use it. 

In my primary residence the electronics is supplied by Conrad Johnson and the amp is the ART 27A, Class A.  In our summer home the electronics is Marantz, and the amp is an integrated PM10, Class D.  Before sending them to their final destination, I was able to compare the C-J and Marantz components quite carefully.  The C-J excelled at microdetail, but in terms of liquidity, tonal accuracy, and overall presentation they were remarkably similar.    

As others have mentioned, it seems the topology of the amplifier isn’t what’s important but the implementation.  I really enjoy both my Class A Pass Labs XA30.8 and my Class D Primare A60.  They each have a different sound.  The Primare almost sounds like some tube amps I’ve heard.  Just very smooth and nice to listen to.  The Pass is... well a Pass Labs... absolutely amazing with detail, imaging, tonal accuracy etc.  But it also is like having a heater in my studio when it’s running.  I have a solid climate control setup and only run the amplifier when I’m using the system but yea it’s a lot.  I’ve also tried quite a few A/B and D amps that just didn’t cut it compared to these amps.

Best advice I can give is if there’s ANY way to demo that piece of gear, then do that before purchasing unless you get a very good deal and don’t mind reselling.  You just never know what it’s going to sound like in your system until you get to live with it for a while and A/B it with your current setup.  Class D are lightweight so at least they aren’t rough with shipping costs!  Best of luck to you OP!  Please tell us what you decide.

In two weeks I should have a better understanding of GaN Fet amps. 
Will be using Class D Audio’s mono blocks paired with a Benchmark LA4 preamp.

Linear Tube Audio DAC fed by a Shanling ET-3 all into some Spendor D9’s.

My streaming computer is out for upgrades. 

@texasblues1959 I didn’t. Some of my comments were removed without explanation. I didn’t say anything untoward too

I have a Nord Purifi Class D and it is good as the best SS amp I have had. I also Have a VTL tube amp which does sound slightly more refined than the Nord.

I can tell you a newfound product I used to sell which sounds incredibly good 

as long as your room is not too massive and Loudspeakrrs around 88 db on up 

Pathos Audio  their integrated amps especially their products with the Inpol technologies  where the Tubes act as amplifiers and buffers to the amplifiers 

outputs simply just 🎶 musical in pure class A -0 feedback 

class A with a additional stage to bring more realism ,sort of like 

a SET  amp and class A combined ,well worth checking out ,you will be seeing more reviews coming out ,on YouTube some good information though.

I just bought their 45wpc into 8 ohms over 25% more into 4 ohms the Impol 2 - MK2  weighs around 86 lbs and Italian styling Very Nice . I will be running  it in .

I have heard these several times in. The last few years  the mk2  even better .

@kofibaffour I apologize then for my false accusation. 

I can no longer chuck around 50+ pound components. I switched to PS Audio class D monos. I’ve never heard my Magnepans sound better. Very clean(quiet) background. Totally non fatiguing, open, billboard size soundstage. My speakers sound like they just breathe easier. Happy! 

Lots of advice and opinions already given.

Here is my 2 cents worth.  Disagree, agree, send me a note telling me I am an idiot it is all good.

This is a false statement - They have one purpose: to reproduce what is given to them accurately. Changing the character of your sound should be done at the preamp level. Enjoy!

I can prove that any day of the week.  Not trying to pick on anyone but each component does what it does for a reason.

My company manufacturers tube base products.  We have repaired and upgraded all audio products for 30+ years now.  In our shop we currently have this month CJ, ARC, VAC, VTL, Marantz, Plinus, Tron, Counterpoint, Prima Luna, Rotel, Cary, on and on.  We have heard more equipment that most anyone in various systems.  So what I am about to say is based on these experiences.

Most of the input here is from experiences of products that are similar.  Designs have not changed much over the years.  You are comparing similar products in YOUR own system.  That is not the best way to judge a product but rather a good way to select something for your system.  What sounds good in your system may not sound the same way in another persons system.  Preference is what that is.

In one of our systems we have Vandersteen model Seven speakers.  After fixing a Art Audio 28wpc tube integrated power amp, we put that amp in the system to make sure it was working properly.  To our surprise,  it drove the 83db speakers amazingly well.  Who would have thought.  I almost kept the amp for that reason alone. 

Think of BMW - they make various models and then they offer the M series.  What is the difference.  Well the M series is an upgrade to the stock model in general terms.  Some want that and are willing to pay the price and some aren't.  Same goes for audio.  In most cases, upgrading an existing component can get you close the the M series without the cost of the M series if you follow me.  That is where we come in on repairing and upgrading components.  We get to hear the stock versions and the upgraded versions.

So like what has been mentioned already, choice selection is a preference but you can upgrade your component to sound even better for less than you think. You simply don't know what will work unless you hear something in your own system.  The goal is to enjoy music in your own system IMO.

Happy Listening.

"Think of BMW - they make various models and then they offer the M series. What is the difference."

The BMW M series’s original intent quickly diverged to a "M = Marketing" strategy to sell more upgraded BMW’s to those desiring the M badge of honor.

Originally, BMW had to sell a minimum number of street-legal cars to qualify for the European Motorsport series. They were true street-legal race cars at first and they sold out quickly. That is when the BMW marketing dept. realized an opportunity to increase profits. The M cars of today are far from the original spirit of M.

In the audio world, we see this sometimes with upgraded casework that gives the audio-jewelry effect that if it looks good, it must sound good, just like with the M-series’ aggressive styling and colorful racing stripes. Anyway.

In my case, better.  After the second repair of my 65 lb. Odyssey Stratos amp, which required lugging it to and from shipping facilities, I gave up after it failed a third time.  I was determined to find something powerful, yet much lighter.  My solution was Mike Kallelis' Arion Audio S500 stereo Class D amp.  It was more powerful, at 500 watts per channel, than the Stratos.  But the big surprise was the excellent synergy between the S500, my McIntosh C220 tube pre, and my Ohm Walsh 2000 speakers.  An annoying peak at about 7kHz, which I had attributed to the Ohms, vanished.  The Arion might be very slightly more neutral and less warm than the Stratos, but the elimination of that peak was worth way more to me.  I have had the amp for 6 years now, with no issues and no interest in upgrading it.  It runs cool, and weighs only about 22 lbs.  A very good value, too, IMHO.

Starkrimson 25 Mono Premium - Amplifer Tour | Steve Hoffman Music Forums

Try it for yourself.

@dman777 I used class D amps for 80kW front end PA gig setup, and I am using AB/A class amps for home sys.. class D has too much harmonics at low output level, RF noise, “weird” pulse response.. 

I came from an AT 6007 Signature Series amp to class D Legacy Audio V:I Amplifiers. At the same time, I went from Marantz 8805 to a Lyngdorf MP-40 processor with Room Perfect. The ATI weighed hundreds, and the Legacy weighs much less, but does it ever pack a punch. Plus, it runs cool with absolutly no buzz, no hiss. I love the combo  

All the matters in the end is how the amp sounds in our system. 

@hbarrel always a good point in these sorts of discussions.  Ultimately that is all that matters.

However, discussing brands and topology can be a fruitful conversation if people always remember the point you bring up as they discuss these things and remember that we all have different ears, systems and are at different points of our journey.

I prefer the sound of my Technics SU-G700M2 to what I've owned in the past, which have been various Class A/B makes, a Vinnie Rossi battery powered integrated (RedWine) and a EL34 tube integrated. Just don't call the Technics a Class D amp as they chafe at the mention of it. They call it a digital DAC with the power supply built in house using Gan FET output devices. So many shades of grey. Nothing off the shelf in the design.

The sound borders on the fantastic at times, compared to what I've owned. I can't say more than that.

All the best,
Nonoise

I bought a Panasonic SA XR 50 with an Energy Star sticker on it for my transition to class D. Not a reference piece but it can do 5.1 signals and it never gets hot. Now I run B&O Ice Modules in two sizes: Red Dragon M500 monoblocks; Wyred4Sound SX 1000 R monoblocks. Also a Peachtree Carina 300 running Hypex modules. 

Class AB can sound wonderful but there is more more waste heat, complexity and weight. Not as good an idea if you run your air conditioner a lot or you are off grid.  

I loved my Panny SA XR 50 in my bedroom system until it died.

@freediver  that's great feedback ... thank you!

I've had class A/B amps from Denon, PS Audio, Vincent, and Krell.

Very happy with my class D PS Audio M1200 monoblocks.

@tomcarr ya, I was eyeing the Class D PS audio monoblocks. But it really stinks for me to buy them without hearing them. Even with the 30 day return period. Were able to hear them first before buying them? 

There are a few differences:

1. I don't think we really know how long class D amps will last, how they will most likely fail, or whether they can be maintained in the same sense as a conventional amp.  They could last longer.

2. Class D amps use far more complex designs.  Many of the amplifier boards are built as modules and used by multiple amp makers.  That's why a class D amp will often be identified as a Nilai, NCORE, Purifi, PASCAL, etc.  Some (all?) of these companies also build and sell compatible power supply boards.  Add a case, power switch, input buffer. wires & connectors, and you're done!  I don't think all class D amps are built this way, though.

3. The more recent introduction of GAN FETs has made for another family of class D amps.  I don't know if these are also mostly being based on modular sub-assemblies; what makes them distinct is the use of a specific kind of transistor.

None of these are necessarily negatives, just things that occurred to me recently.  Hopefully, @atmasphere will drop by and fill in the blanks (please?)

@tomcarr ya, I was eyeing the Class D PS audio monoblocks. But it really stinks for me to buy them without hearing them. Even with the 30 day return period. Were able to hear them first before buying them? 

I'm not Tom, but I also own the M1200 monoblocks.  A friend has them and I did get the opportunity to hear them a number of times before I bought them.  I needed more power than the class A/B monoblocks I had, which I loved and thought would be hard to beat for the money.

After a speaker change to some very power hungry speakers I decided to try the M1200s in my system.  They sound every bit as good as my previous amps and are able to deliver the power the new speakers wanted.  I have also owned the m700 amps, which were surprisingly good, but not as good as my previous amps or the m1200.  

There's always something "better" or "different" that might suit your tastes more than the m1200s, but they are very neutral, light, quiet, and have none of the negative traits I've experienced with other class D amps. 

As a bonus, you can roll the input tube.  I've tried a number of tubes in mine and like Amperex Orange Globe 6dj8 and Genalex Gold Lions the best.

I can understand the attraction from A/b or even A if current is a problem to a class D amp.  But tubes are not something I hear and can easily go to a class D system unless heat or space is the consideration.  A preference for tubes is in a class by itself.  The differences are easily distinguishable in a blind test.  SS v tubes, if you enjoy tubes; my advice is don’t even bother, over time you will be sorry, have spent more money, just to go back to the sound you like, tubes.  
 

In 10 years, as Ralph says….then maybe? 

 But tubes are not something I hear and can easily go to a class D system unless heat or space is the consideration.  A preference for tubes is in a class by itself.  The differences are easily distinguishable in a blind test.  SS v tubes, if you enjoy tubes; my advice is don’t even bother, over time you will be sorry, have spent more money, just to go back to the sound you like, tubes.

@daytrader I like the sound of tubes a lot as you might surmise. I like the sound of the class D amp in my home system better. Its just as smooth in the mids and highs and seems to delineate information in the rear of the soundstage with more clarity than the best tube amps I’ve heard. I don’t miss having to replace tubes or the heat which is a nice side benefit.

1. I don’t think we really know how long class D amps will last, how they will most likely fail, or whether they can be maintained in the same sense as a conventional amp.  They could last longer.

2. Class D amps use far more complex designs.  Many of the amplifier boards are built as modules and used by multiple amp makers.  That’s why a class D amp will often be identified as a Nilai, NCORE, Purifi, PASCAL, etc.  Some (all?) of these companies also build and sell compatible power supply boards.  Add a case, power switch, input buffer. wires & connectors, and you’re done!  I don’t think all class D amps are built this way, though.

3. The more recent introduction of GAN FETs has made for another family of class D amps.  I don’t know if these are also mostly being based on modular sub-assemblies; what makes them distinct is the use of a specific kind of transistor.

None of these are necessarily negatives, just things that occurred to me recently.  Hopefully, @atmasphere will drop by and fill in the blanks (please?)

Class D amps will last as long as any conventional solid state amp; perhaps longer since the filter caps will have less heat around them. 

Class D amps are not particularly complex except in the case of the formula to determine values in the feedback network of class D amps that are of the variety known as ’self oscillating’. In terms of components used our class D amp is simpler than most class AB solid state amps.

Not everyone uses modules from other companies- we certainly don’t; ours is designed and built by us as are power supplies we use. What we found prototyping our amp is that the power supply is critical and for best results should be designed for the application rather than bought off the shelf. That so many people do the mix and match thing is IMO why class D has had trouble getting traction in the last 20 years. 

If you know what you are doing you can build a class D amp that is in the driver’s seat rather than the back seat WRT any other kind of amplifier technology.

Thank you Ralph for your thoughts.  I can see your points, they are best to be considered .  Atma-Sphere systems at home can be somewhat problematic especially if not placed in dedicated audio rooms, the heat alone and then to a lesser degree, pocket $ impacting tube replacements for those hi powered OTLs can have us second guessing one’s financial priorities.  In an open air environment, they are some of the best I’ve heard! 

I might think about this further the next time I buy an octet of KT150s.  😵‍💫😵‍💫

@atmasphere +1 "If you know what you are doing you can build a class D amp that is in the driver’s seat rather than the back seat WRT any other kind of amplifier technology."

its applicable to everything! 

I made the switch from A to A/B and finally Class D (AGD) and not looking back!

My experience with Class D amps demonstrated to me that the quality of the sound was completely based upon which amp I had used.  One particular amp was nice, but it grated on me with extended listening time.  It was just too bright on the upper frequencies with a harshness.  I suspect it was the generic Class modules which were used in the amp; it was not a very expensive amp, and I'd say it was a perfect starter piece for kids in college who want a lot of output, very light weight and easy to move around and as I noted, affordable.   I was comparing it against my A/AB amp at the time too which was my baseline. 

I got a great deal on a pair of not very used Anthem Statement M1 Class D mono blocks, these are very expensive amps, but the price was great from the original owner who had a bad case of habitual upgrading syndrome.  He just had to have the super expensive $30K class A monobloc amps, so he let me have the M1's at less than half cost.   When I installed these amps (with dedicated 240V 15 amp each with direct runs to my service entrance), I was blown out of the park with what I heard vs. my A/AB fancy amp.  I knew within 2 minutes of listening to some very familiar vinyl these were game changers.  By the end of the weekend, I moved my A/AB amp out of the rack and put into a home theater application.

The Anthem M1's are very sophisticated design amps using internal liquid cooling heat pipes for the output devices and they use a proprietary feedback circuit which is makes them so amazingly smooth in the upper ranges vs. other Class D's I have heard.  I also experimented with them on 120V input vs. 240V input and it's still very good, but the dynamics on 240V make it definitely worthy of using.  Plus, they jump up to around 2300 watts output per amp for amazing headroom.

I will never sell these amps!  It doesn't get much better than this as it's like being in a live venue.

Interested in the 240 to 120V input are you using converters and or inverters @slimpikins5 

I have been using a Schiit Magni 3 (Class D) for years, and only recently invested in an Asgard 3 (Class A) and found that the Asgard has greater clarity and soundstage, but less bottom end.  But there are too many variables to consider to call it a simple difference between Class A and Class D.  But that was my recent experience. 

Heck no. I stick with what has worked my entire life. Class A, and Class A/B. I don’t need to experiment with some new Class simply because it’s new. Some of are satisfied with tube amps, or Class A or A/B. Done are we. 

My main listening setup uses a Rogue Sphinx Class D, mostly because I prefer Magnepans and need the juice, but also because I think the differences in quality amps are getting to be vanishingly small. Now, I also keep two casual listening systems that are Class A driving more efficient speakers. And here’s the thing: my diy First Watt M2 from diyAudio Store comes with five different input stages that are swappable and guess what? They sound different. So different implementation on the input stage, different sound from the same power stage. Go with your ears and don’t look back.