Subwoofer Footing - Connect or Isolate?

Put it on springs. Much better. Nobsound springs if you can only afford $30, or if you want the best then Townshend Pods or Bars. Pods are virtually as good but cost less and I think look better, as in you hardly see them.

The curling stone is maximizing vibration feeding into the floor, walls, and ceiling. Vibrations travel through all these setting the whole room ringing. A lot of what you think is bass response or room acoustics is really the sub exciting the walls turning them into speakers muddying the bass and everything else. Travels into all your components distorting them as well.

Springs eliminate all that, allowing the speaker to radiate into the room sound waves not sound waves plus mechanical vibrations. The improvement in clarity is not subtle, not if you go Townshend anyway. But even Nobsound will be a big improvement from what you are doing now.

Dont elevate the sub, or De couple it from the floor as this will tend to make things sound dead, you will kill and rob the life out of the sub, this is a key quality that REL subs have. REL's not only produce bass they have a musical sound that works and enhances the main speakers, this will be lost if you isolate the sub from the floor, use bass traps or other resonance absorbing material in SPECIFIC areas to combat this.

Matt M

You can't connect but you can Isolate it.. Always! Vibration in, Vibration out. Isolate from both, THEN remove as much as you can from the cabinets.. Speed the decay rates on everything.. No there's not 10,000 words.. My hands hurt.. :-)

Regards

The reason Matt says "tend" is because he doesn't know. If he did know then instead of pasting ad copy he would say springs and decoupling "are" better. Because he would know. From experience. https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367 Five subs. They have been on Cones, springs, and Pods. Springs are better than Cones. Pods are much better than springs. "A musical sound that works and enhances the main speakers, this will be lost if you isolate the sub" oh really? Read the listener comments. Please.

Some folks like BASS exciters hooked to there seat. Maybe mattmiller is one of those. What ya think? REALLY likes to feel it.

TT guys tend to pay just a little more attention to vibration mattmiller "I Like the Feelin'", don't work to well..  Different approach.

Baffle widths, flat surfaces sharp corners, all take away from "Sound is Round" "Smooth" "Clear" "Fast". 

EVERYTHING with uncontrolled vibration and every surface that collects it add to the issue. It's pretty weird when you get rid of it for the first time..
AND get to hear the difference.

It's also nice to have cabinets that sound like a fresh telephone pole when you knock on it. Curb and gutter type of quiet.

Regards

Yes, so much better to avoid isolation.  I mean, those subwoofers just don't seem as cool if they're not making my walls rattle, or vibrating things off shelves, or making the woofers pump on my speakers when I'm spinning vinyl on the turntable.

The last thing you want to do is put a subwoofer on springs. At some low frequency it will start shaking. Vibration/shaking in any speaker equals distortion. Just put your hand on the sub while playing an organ piece or better yet run a sine wave sweep and you can find all the resonance points. Keeping a subwoofer from shaking is not easy. Certainly, mass helps as does containment. In the home environment spiking it to a concrete floor would be best followed by spiking it to a wooden floor. The wooden floor's resonance point will hopefully and usually be above the subwoofer's range. Even so the floor is going to resonate regardless from airborne excitation. New designs Like Magico's big subs are using a method of force cancelation. They put drivers in opposite ends of the enclosure running in phase with each other thus their Newtonian forces cancel. This effectively stops the enclosure from shaking but does not stop cabinet resonances, another issue all together. Magico does it by building a battleship enclosure. 

I agree...put a sub on springs is ridiculous at best.Maybe good if your trying to bounce around like a pogo stick.

Somewhere Richard Vandersteen posted an excellent article on speaker isolation and he makes a very good point I've made before:

You want to prevent the speaker's ability from moving back and forth.  The forces of the drivers push against the cabinet and can cause it to move, which is audible even when there's very little of it.

So, I would stick to IsoAcoustic style of pucks for a subwoofer and nothing more springy.

Wow a lot of bad info here.  Isolating things that move is important when you don't want to excite other elements of the listening room that add to and change the total sound you perceive.  This is an issue of mass vs frequency.

The total sound you perceive is the speaker direct sound + speaker indirect [reflected] sound + room dimensional sound + all vibrating materials in the room [tables, floors, walls etc]. 

Wooden speaker stands vs heavy Sound Anchor stands is clear evidence of this idea as the wooden stands will vibrate at an audible frequency (knock on them with your knuckles to hear an example) vs hi mass Sound Anchors which vibrate differently due to high mass.

For the spring idea to work, it must be tuned for the weight of thing moving.  Random springs set for an unknown weight will not solve your problem.  Look at a car or truck, springs are set very specifically depending on weight and the many factors of behavior once excited.   

Decoupling sources of LF is important to not waste unwanted mechanical energy vs the energy you want: acoustic energy.  Giant generators are isolated from the concrete pad they sit to control vibration that turns into LF hum that can penetrate an entire building and make it impossible to work. 

See  Noisia Studio Tour | Razer Music - Bing video
this shows the springs used under some fairly heavy (150+ lbs) ATC monitors.  Very specific spring rates.
Brad

The last thing you want to do is put a subwoofer on springs. At some low frequency it will start shaking.

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WRONG... Just wrong..

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Giant generators are isolated from the concrete pad they sit to control vibration that turns into LF hum that can penetrate an entire building and make it impossible to work.

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I don’t know what constitutes "Giant" I’ve worked on Cats 1250kW mobile and stationary gen sets.

That same "Isolation Tech" Springs, Gummy Puffers and point of contact accumulators, keeps just about anything isolated, One from the Other.

12 to 15 tons of Generator can really put out LF harmonics. You couldn’t keep concrete UNDER it.
It would crumble it.. The engine perches would break, nothing would hold up. It has to be isolated.
They have used cancellation tech in machinery for a long time.. Joe Blow, human hearing application not so long.
30 years or so..

Regards

A REL engineer told me that the only thing I might want to try is some BlueTak under each foot. But with or without the ’Tak, he said the sub will perform properly on my hardwood floors over a crawl space using the T5 as REL designed it. I tried the BluTak, and in my room, but while I could discern no dramatic differences, I left it on the sub feet because, well, it’s just sooo sticky. :)

I suspect that REL knows how to build subwoofers a heckuva lot better than I do.

Knowing how to build subwoofers is of course a completely different subject.

oldhvymec is right. Springs are of course the best thing to put your speakers on. All speakers, sub or otherwise.

Yes the springs do need to be matched or tuned to the load. Duh. Too soft and the spring will fully compress and cease to be a spring. Too stiff and it will not compress at all and once again cease to be a spring.

In between these two extremes, where the spring is matched to the load so that it compresses about half way under load, this is where the load becomes an independently suspended mass.

This is a range, just as it is a range for cars. People with actual experience tuning suspensions will know the idea the spring being a function of the cars weight are nuts. They will have a hard time explaining why a 1200 lb F1 car uses springs 5X as stiff as a 4000lb sedan.

In cars or audio tuning matters. Read mahgister, he has tuned his by adjusting the weight and noticed a change with as little as 1/4 lb.

Another factor is damping. Fine tuning weight matters a lot more with undamped springs because the adjustment is really resonance tuning. Damping controls resonance making this sort of tuning much less important. It still matters, but damped springs like Pods have a very wide range of outstanding performance compared to ordinary springs.

The moving mass of even a large woofer cone and coil is only some tens of grams. The mass of all the rest of the sub is some 30 to 40 kg or roughly ten thousand times as much. For sure some acoustic energy is lost on springs. For sure if you know Newton, f=ma, it is infinitesimally small.

Again, note the difference between those who have done and those who talk as if they have done. Would be nice if all the people repeating nonsense about springs would include a statement to the effect they do not really know what they are talking about, because they have not tried.

Go and try it. Then get back to us.

Something else that is interesting about conventional VC drivers, they have a return spring sometimes TWO.

That which moves forward is pulled back and there is a dampening factor via the amp too, if it’s direct coupled.. Much like a shock that is used for dampening, more in one direction than the other. The exact reason for different bleed ratios between compression of the shock or the expansion of the shock.. AND then gas assist for speed.

Those shocks under your car or gas assist accumulator for the 200 lb rear door on soccer moms SUV. WORK to do different things..

But they sure work better than Fred Flintstones giddy up. Feet, A$$, and a little spotted hide. All the cushion Fred had.. Stone vacuum tubes, stone record player, Dodo bird for a stylus.. Thing change.. LOL

Innertubes work well, I’m telling you.. Now fill that innertube 1/2 way with water, I’ll bet you couldn’t stay in the room.. Water transfers LF pretty darn good.. Isn’t that the whole sonar thing.. It can be very destructive.

Air is fast enough. A more viscous material like different weights of oil would be slow enough. Both are very effective materials one for dampening one for isolation, BUT both in the same (for ease of application) flexible tube.

The initial shock, the air and tube take the brunt via expansion of the tube, then dampened by the oil. NOT amplified like a less viscous material would act..

It’s not rocket science but you do have to think a bit.. It’s right in there with the "Farmer Astronaut", HECK NO!... but a great example. Great movie. I’d forgotten about it.. I think I'll watch it...

Regards

Speakers and subwoofers like to be solidly mounted to add structure to the enclosure, they do not like to be in micro motion.
The ONLY reason you would ever want to iso mount a speaker or subwoofer is if the energy of the speaker is transfering into something such that it is audibly resonating, e.g. a suspended wood floor.
In that case you would introduce isolstion of some sort because not using it is worse than using isolation.
isolation is a compromise solution, the speaker is now in micromotion.   no isolation is always best if the speaker isnt causing something else to vibrate audibly.

Are there any subwoofer manufacturers who provide a set of tuned springs with their speakers?

@mijostyn --

The last thing you want to do is put a subwoofer on springs. At some low frequency it will start shaking. Vibration/shaking in any speaker equals distortion.

@avanti1960 --

Speakers and subwoofers like to be solidly mounted to add structure to the enclosure, they do not like to be in micro motion.

+1 to both. 

WOW, it makes me wonder if people pay attention AT ALL.

There is no solid anything in a conventional domicile.

I had to pour a 22" thick by 24" wide x 18 foot long to get a base.  Just to isolate gear correctly, and stop transfer from built in base traps. 10,500 pounds of concrete and a 5/8 rebar cage of sorts.. It is isolated from the 5.5 inch slab in the old metal shop.. LONG term project, LOL 33 years ago now. A really good concrete guy did the figuring a LONG time ago..
ZERO cost.. he paid for everything. REAL good friend.. RIP..

In Pete, sandy loam or bog forget it..  I can jump up and down and you can feel it 50 feet away.. 1/8 mile from my house it's just that way.. Tule Pete.

Regards

I'm with oldhvymec on this one. The only thing that made listening to my stereo system remotely tolerable was to move the house off its existing foundation, remove the foundation, excavate a 35' x 45' x 15' deep pit,
fill it with rock and rebar and pour a bazillion truckloads of concrete into the fill it. The new audiophile foundation cost me plenty, you can be sure of that.

That's why my REL T5 does not need special footers or even springs.

Have any of you guys who are so sure about springs actually tried them?

Again, note the difference between those who have done and those who talk as if they have done. Would be nice if all the people repeating nonsense about springs would include a statement to the effect they do not really know what they are talking about, because they have not tried. 

Have you actually tried them? Because everything you are saying is proven wrong the minute you actually try them. None of what you are saying actually happens. So have you actually tried? Or is it all blather?

I have.  Huge difference in the system I heard it on (the one in the video posted earlier).  Amazing what it sounds like isolated from the floor and room structure.  This was build by an acoustics expert whos quite popular in the US and builds the best mastering rooms Ive ever heard. 

I like oldhvymec, cool story about the big generators.  I was thinking of a hotel I visited recently with back up generators out back on big concrete pads so maybe it was more than concrete?
brad
    

Spikes; definitely not springs. 

I can assure you it is not uncommon for some here who will not be named to post solely for the sake of posting and to garner attention for reasons unknown and with absolutely no regard for Truth or integrity. It should surprise nobody that this kind of thing goes on all the time in forums like this.

Spikes; definitely not springs.

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Yikes, I've never seen a place where they worked. There is vertical and horizontal, vibration control. There is also From and TO the source. It's  difficult to make points work on both plains and variance of the two..

Have you EVER seen any type of power plant that wasn't isolated. I've never seen one. You ever see one on points? I haven't!

LOL Kinda like steel wheels they never did catch on.. Maybe a BIG  dimple roller.

Every time it's a gummy puffer (soft mount) with a hole through the center and longer bolts with washers and springs, on either side of the mount sandwiched between the gummy puffers. You back up and slam it forward or forward and slam it in reverse, the spring compress, while the mounting plate is between silicone wafers. Pretty tough!!

You should see what happens to a typical 4 stroke diesel (5-15 liters) engine that loosed the integrity of a harmonic balancer. Break in half!

You can't make it solid enough, but you can make it soft enough..

Regards

I discovered early on that placing my Velodyne HGS-15s of Auralex SubDudes really improves their performance.  I do enjoy that subtle more felt than heard experience when a large pipe is played by the organist.

I just bought 4 Townshend Seismic pods for my 140 pound sub. I say vibration isolate your sub from the floor.

Using the pods is a relatively inexpensive way to completely isolate your sub.

I use Auralex Subdude platforms. Things sound more defined, controlled and right with them. 

You can not isolate a subwoofer from a "springy" floor. It will shake/resonate from the bass regardless. The solution to a "springy" floor is to fix the floor which can be easily done with lally columns and a header. Once the resonance frequency of the floor is above the subwoofers highest frequency you are in business. 
People imagine all these EVIL gremlins lurking around corners. Lay instinct run amok. 
Any shaking, movement or vibration in any loudspeaker is distortion. With subs this is viciously true. The failing of most subwoofers is the enclosure. It is extremely hard to contain that vibrating monster in a cost effective manner.

SVS sells their SoundPath sub isolation footers for only $50 and offers a generous risk-free trial so you can try’em at home. They are said to both improve bass and reduce transmission and get excellent reviews from customers who bought them. No brainer in my book. Best of luck.

Another Auralex Subdude user here.  Cleans up muddy bass that obscures midrange detail when flooring is problematic.  Everything is more refined and detailed top to bottom.   

key phrase:
when flooring is problematic

Great feedback everyone, thank you. As a low cost test I ordered some Nobsound springs, though something like a Subdude is definitely under consideration. I shall report back.

Has anyone tried the  Auray ISO-SUB Subwoofer Isolation Stabilizer?  Same overall dimensions as the Auralex but made of slightly different materials.

With that sub you will probably only need 3-4 springs per footer. This will leave you with 12-16 springs left over, enough to make another set of footers to use under another component. You can make additional footers from MDF, acrylic or wood. Drill some 1/4" divots the way Nobsound does to hold the springs.

The improvement from under the sub will be okay, not nearly as much as Townshend Pods but at least as good as other stuff mentioned. Combined with using the extra set under a CDP or whatever you will find hard to beat for $30.   

You do not by the way have to put them under the existing factory feet. They can be used just inboard of that, and with a spacer can wind up with almost exactly the same height above the floor as now.

Here is a little one up on the 30.00 spring packs.

Get the spring load right, about 1/2 compression on the springs no matter if you suspend the whole piece or just one side of it. The side closest to the wall I have on a silicone snubbers and springs the inside I have on springs and perches with gummy puffers (30.00 model)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274400620548?epid=801363065&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3fe38d3004:...

I use the term "gummy puffers" because that is what it translates to.
Memory foam ear plugs. Take one per spring, roll it, install it, and put the top back on. Add sorbothane top and bottom.. Same thing on spring suspension TT add gummy puffers..

Now we have good dampening to boot. We are stopping vibration and bringing the decay rate close to ZERO from the box to the floor. That’s the real trick. Is the room still acting like a Ricochet Biscuit?

It really effect a transport, turntables cone drivers (with VC) or any valve based gear. Valves don’t like to be shaken. EVER. Neither do Voice coils.

like I said before some people like tactile bass shakers.. Some people like panel exciters. I personally do.. they are fun.. Bass shakers NO. You can shake the walls down if that what you wanted to do with the HE sub drivers and powerful amps available today. I use 15 and 18" with 22mm XMax. 90 or 91 efficient.. I don’t need NO STINKIN’ SHAKERS at all.:-)

Friday, time for a little Boom Boom..

Hat on the floor, as I slowly walk around to the beat of the music and my faithful dog follows me. I STOP. and we slowly back around the hat to the beat of the music.. Olay Amigo!

Time to feed the chickens..

Do the Auralex SubDudes work on carpeted floors or are they only good for hard flooring?

Subdude works great on carpet. Mine are on carpet.

I am a big fan of the Townsend isolation products.  I have them under my main speakers, amps and equipment rack and they really do make a noticeable difference.  I was looking to put them under my REL 812/s subs (2).  As they are not inexpensive I thought I would contact REL to see what they had to say.  In their opinion, they said I would hear no perceptible difference adding isolation to the subwoofers.  My wallet cheered this news but my instinct still wonders if I am not missing something.

My subs went from BDR Cones to Nobsound spring to Townshend Pods. The last was a big jump with 5 subs but the difference was a surprise. Instead of the obvious improvement in bass that was expected the difference was immediately apparent even in music that seemed to have no real powerful low bass. The whole room opened up becoming larger, the speakers disappeared even more and the sound stage became even more enveloping. I think this is because when really low bass is done right you don't hear it so much as feel it, and this feeling is expressed in the sensation of being in a larger space. I know that sounds crazy but talking to others who have done Townshend under subs that is what they hear as well. I haven't touched the level on the subs yet at times it feels like they are turned down, until something happens and I realize no there is at least as much bass as before only cleaner now. So yeah you are missing something. Pods are cheaper than bars, I would try Pods if you can.

I can save you the trouble, REL will tell you their product is so perfect nothing can possibly ever be better, except their next one. 🤣 That is not a knock on REL. That is what they all say. No amp maker will ever tell you their amp needs a power cord or a fuse and no speaker maker will tell you to use a Podium, and caps? Forgetaboutit!🤣🤣

As someone stated previously, I switched out the stock feet for the Soundpath footers on my SVS sb1000 and both pb1000's in my HT, and definitely notice the difference on our wood floors with wall bass traps/acoustic panels. 

I have a REL 528SE subwoofer and tried springs (Nobsound) to see if the sub would sound better.  However, went back to using blue tak to affix to my suspended wood floors, as I preferred this sound over the springs.  The bass seems tighter and also turns out that I had a lengthy correspondence with Justin at REL who suggested blu tak as the preferred method for their subwoofers.

it all depends on how much sustain you want on the bass notes if the bass is too heavy isolating it is a good idea but if it is too light coupling it is a better idea.

Another shout out the SVS SoundPath feet.  A bargain @ $50 ea.  

Question:  Why would a manufacturer build and sell a product that will not work optimally with the feet supplied knowing that a bad review can kill sales.  If you have to spend $200 + to make their product work properly shouldn't they tell you that up front?  They know that very few people would have a perfect environment.

If I were a sub maker, I would make sure my feet were the best and then advertise that you have to spend $xxx with other subs to match my subs performance.  Reviewers would jump on that and make comparisons.

Old P.T. Barnum was right!

Not a single subwoofer manufacturer offers springs for their subs. But hey, what do they know about subs anyway. SMH.

The only component that may benefit from a sprung suspension is a turntable. That also happens to be the only component offered with suspension. 

A sub (and every speaker known to man) is best served by being spiked onto a firm surface like a floor.

"Why would a manufacturer build and sell a product that will not work optimally with the feet supplied knowing that a bad review can kill sales. "

barjohn-you are on an audio site. Audiophoolery  is the name of the game here.

There is no product that doesn't need to be tweaked, cryo'ed, fused, retubed, cabled, sprung...etc.

After you do  all those things, you start a forum thread titled: "what's best, digital or analog?"

"Why?" To keep the price down and give people options. I use the soundpath feet because I have wood floors, I don't want to make a plinth for a huge sub and I don't want it walking across the floor. Various reasons people make their choices...  

"Why would a manufacturer build and sell a product that will not work optimally with the feet supplied knowing that a bad review can kill sales. "


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Why would a manufacture sell a 20K amp with a 10.00 usd power cable.
They don’t expect YOU to use it..

Just because someone puts a name on a box and call’s it "The Best Sub", Doesn’t mean it is... I keep reading how ’So and So subs should know about subs" WHY? 10-20 year old businesses. Most Agoners have been at this STUFF for 40 plus years. So who has the years under their belts.

I keep seeing Points, solid to the floor, no isolation, spring move, La-Te-Da. Mercy!!

In the 70-80s they new to do it.

From the old VMPS web site, below.. Mr Bass Himself Brian C

"Spikes

Spikes both couple and decouple the cabinet/speaker output from the floor.

Bass wavelengths are quite long and, below about 200Hz, boundary dependent. Without a surface to travel along they dissipate somewhat rapidly. A woofer would ideally be as close to a boundary (floor) or multiple boundaries (side and back walls, and even ceiling) as possible, or at least a constant distance from them. By elevating a cabinet from the floor with spikes, you reduce the propagation efficiency of bass wavelengths. So, you decouple bass from the room, even if ever so slightly. The effect is quite audible.

Spikes couple cabinet output to the floor, turning it into a transmission medium. Soundwaves travel through many solids much more rapidly than through the air. Instead of "moving the floor", cabinet output is transmitted to the listener ahead of the music, through the floor (made usually a good carrier of sound like wood or stone). This is why I’m no fan of spikes, and the Sunfire people aren’t either.

Try some damping compound between the spikes and the cabinet (not between the spikes and the floor) and let me know if you hear a difference. I’ve seen composite spikes that were metal only on the tips, otherwise rubber. Should work better.

Since spikes do two things I don’t like--diminish bass propagation, and transmit or even amplify spurious cabinet talk--I never recommend their use.

As Sunfire recommends, rubber or other absorbent materials can be used as feet for speakers or subs.

Since a lot depends on the height of the stand and the materials from which your floor is made, why not experiment? Personally I like Dynamat".

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That was in the 80-90s. 3-40 years LATER I read this

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Speakers and subwoofers like to be solidly mounted to add structure to the enclosure, they do not like to be in micro motion.
The ONLY reason you would ever want to iso mount a speaker or subwoofer is if the energy of the speaker is transfering into something such that it is audibly resonating, e.g. a suspended wood floor.
In that case you would introduce isolstion of some sort because not using it is worse than using isolation.
isolation is a compromise solution, the speaker is now in micromotion. no isolation is always best if the speaker isnt causing something else to vibrate audibly.

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Sounds confusing doesn’t it?

Everything vibrates. HOW MUCH? That is the question.

IF the cabinet is not solid to begin with, it’s certainly not going to get that way setting it on the floor. You can ADD weight to the structure to mass load then spring load. THINK!! Just like the bus, car, plane, train, horse and buggy, bicycle, motorcycle, baby carriage. When you ride in them, they isolates your BUTT from the road..

There are NO STEEL WHEELS... You don’t couple vibrations to other structures... THINK!!!

Why would a manufacture sell a 20K amp with a 10.00 usd power cable.
They don’t expect YOU to use it..

Most amplifier manufacturers recommend aftermarket cables. Not a single one advises against using them. At best, some may claim aftermarket cables aren’t needed.

Not a single speaker manufacturer, currently active or active during the past 80 years, have ever recommended their speakers be sprung. They all recommend their products be placed on a solid and firm surface.

The idea that using a aftermarket power cable is analogous to putting a speaker on suspension is ridiculous.

A speaker driver cannot possibly reproduce sound accurately when it’s enclosure is moving on the same axis as the driver. It’s simple physics. Very simple physics.

You’re the one who needs to think.

BTW, the caps key is the third from the bottom on the left side of your keyboard.

I just gave you two. Carver and VMPS. I meet Carver when I took a class from him as an apprentice and Worked with Brian Cheney off and on for 30 years before his death in El Sobrante, CA

BOTH isolated their personal rigs, and recommended their customers do the same.

The quote was from the old VMPS site.. NOT MINE...

IF you don’t mind I give BACK the "stupid" remark to whom it came from.. I’ll pass on your gift..

Again if you haven’t been isolating "things" and making sure they continued working for a living. Maybe you should pay a little more attention, before you infer others offer stupid advise..

The coherence between the bass from the speaker box and then transferring it to the floor causes smear. The Two are NOT going to deliver the same frequency at the same time.

That is why guys like MC notice a cleaner more time coherent bass AFTER decoupling from a second source. The floors, walls and ceiling.

"A cabinet output is transmitted to the listener ahead of the music, through the floor (made usually a good carrier of sound like wood or stone)".

"Soundwaves travel through many solids much more rapidly than through the air."

AIR transmits the sound slower.. Brian Cheney "Mr Bass" quoted that, pauly..

That is also why I use separate (directional) MB columns. There is NO sub or bass signals inside in my monitor cabinets.. There is no SUB frequencies in either MB or monitor cabinet..

ALL three types of speaker cabinets are DE coupled from the room and each other.. That is the eye opener of eye openers..
It requires more real estate and cabinets somewhat sized to the room, but it is the very best way I’ve found. BAR none..

Try it, seriously, your going to be surprised if you JUST try it.. I like innertubes the best for heavy Bass bins or subs.. I’d be happy to help if you want to give it a try. I’ve said it over and over. Stereo gear and all its crap is about as sophisticated as the door on a 63 VW Bug.. BUT not quit to the level of a 65 BUG left door.. I’m just a common man who happens to be an OLD heavy mechanic.

After years of repairing heavy equipment over the phone or via Email I could get a little passionate if I had to go do what I told people to do in South America on an off shore drilling platform.. It’s their 50k for 3 days of flying and 15 minutes of work.. 5 times at least that happened.

In California and the West coast every day for over 45 years..

Regards