looking for an integrated amp in the $1500 range

More great suggestions. Keeping my weekend busy. Many, many thanks to all.

One option is to purchase an integrated amplifier with a processor loop (tape loop) and insert a Schiit Loki (~$160) in the loop for low volume listing. 

You already have a very decent amp & preamp (within your budget range).

Previous posters are correct - look for higher efficiency speakers (i.e. >94 dB/M) .

When I ran a pair of Martin Logan Spires (94 dB/M), I powered them with a pair of monoblocks that put out 900W @ 4Ω. As I’m 64 and have experienced many (many!) live rock concerts from the front row in the 70’s & 80’s, I rarely pushed them to loud levels.

I was constantly asked why I needed 900W, but I would astound my audio friends by how much detail was still present at very low volumes.

I currently run a Coincident Dynamo SE34 MK III tube amp (8W) that feeds a pair of Coherent Audio GR-12’s (96dB). At 2/10 of the volume pot., I can serenade my neighbours 5 houses away. The detail a low volumes isn’t as good as my ML/900W amp combo, but it’s very, very close. The price differential between the two is ML/900W combo - $10,000 vs the Coincident/Coherent at $12,000 (some components were bought used and/or modified by myself). So not a huge cost difference. But still outside of your budget, so ignore what components I have.

In order to be able to continue to listen to all the detail at very low volumes, you need both a) high sensitivity speakers, and b) lots of quality power. Lower sensitivity speaker (like yours) require am immense amount of (quality) power to sound good. What sets a great system apart from a lacking system (at a minimum price point) is how much detail you can still hear at low volumes of sound (aka noise floor).

So, if you’re going to start with one of them, given your budget and current equipment, I’d recommend you start with the speakers.

Consider how much you’ve paid me for this advice and act accordingly...

some more great suggestions! Whew. I've got a lot of homework for this weekend. - Thanks to all!

I don't work for The Music Room so check their policy before you buy. They will also negotiate the list prices.

Pioneer A-27 integrated amp from 1978-80 recently serviced by a good technician will bow away anything else in the $1500 price range. First 30 watts pure class A, the rest class A/B up to 120W per channel. Finest example of the Golden Age amps and receivers, very rare though.

An idea if you want to go used. The Music Room will give you a 45 day return window on their gear and sometimes will pay return shipping if you aren't happy for any reason. I have seen some good deals on amps there and they get new stuff all the time. 

For a $1500 or under integrated you need a Willsenton R8. It gives you the option of either 4 EL34’s or 4 KT88’s. You can swap all different types of tubes and various 6SN7 tubes. Tube combinations will drive your system to sublime levels. You won’t miss the 4004. All for less than $1500. Available at Amazon or directly from the manufacturer for a bit less, and delivered in less than 10 days. But of course the return option via Amazon has its advantages if you don’t like it. But I believe it’s the perfect budget integrated with all the power anyone needs. See all of the videos on YouTube.

Regarding the rogue Sphinx…. I haven’t heard the V.3 which very well could be a totally different animal, but had the V.1 for a very short time. Did not care for it at all. 

@bgross 

”Find a vintage Sansui, AU-9500... best integrated I've heard at the $1500 price point. ”

For speakers that aren’t real hard to drive I totally agree! Wonderful sounding unit and build like brick s..t house. 
 

Seems you get a lot for your money on used Musical Fidelity integrated. My A1008 I sold I could only get $1,200 for and it’s a 6k unit new. Bags of power and really great clean dynamic sound with a little warmth. 

Audio By Van Alstine - American Made - The owner will return your call  - THE OWNER.  Great sound, great price factor - what a great company.  You will not go wrong with Van Alstine.

Well done andrake !!!

This is a general answer because there were so many good  suggestions that I’m still working through them all.

But I’d like to point out as a member for some years now, and as it may be for others, I sometimes forget how generous and well informed the members are. But as the suggestions I’ve received show, what a great group. Thanks to all.

It seems you have a pretty nice setup now; one thing that can negatively affect low volume playback is if your analog volume potentiometer (I think the AVA has an Alps Blue in it) is very low to the left - meaning below 9 or 8am on the dial. That would mean the audio is running through a lot of the carbon resistance track on the potentiometer and potentially losing dynamics on the way. The newer AVAs have a "low gain" button, that should give you more range on the volume control and better sound at lower volumes. 

You could test this with your DAC, if you can control its output. Set its output to very low so you have to turn your volume on the AVA pre way up and see if you get better sound. 

If you get an integrated, I would think getting one with a digital style volume control (with a resistor relay ladder like on the RAGNAROK or equivalent) would do better at high attenuation than the Alps Blue. My son had the same problem as you, with a lower budget than yours and he has high sensitivity (94dB) speakers with an older amp and an analog volume pot that he could not turn up past 8am on the dial and his sound suffered. We tried an Arcam SA-10 and it was night and day. He was amazed at the difference in low level listening from the Arcam. The Arcam's, the Creek Evos, Audiolab, etc have the volume control in a chip - something you might want to look into. 

I had the S400 mk II speakers, which are rated at 87 dB, in my bedroom. During low-level listening sessions at around 45 dB at night, I found that, with well-recorded music, I could discern articulated bass notes and open, airy treble without any difficulty. To maximize my listening enjoyment, I would activate the preset EQ in Foobar2000, adjusting the SPL to match a spectrum of multiband frequencies according to F-M-based equalized loudness curves (as described below). It’s important to note that if the resulting dB levels at certain frequencies approach the distortion threshold, it’s advisable to lower the entire spectrum of dB levels by the same amount.

OP,

Agree with what some have said, higher efficiency speakers might help. That said the Buchardt S400 MK1 already has a "mid bass hump" that works well, but takes some guts to get that passive radiator cooking. I'd suggest sending Mads Buchardt an email to ask his opinion info@buchardtaudio.com

High efficiency equals good listening at low levels minimum of 92 for low-level listening.

The Buchardt are great-sounding speakers. IMO they work nice at medium to high listening levels. Surprisingly they can sound very good in large rooms.

Rogue Sphinx sounds like a great idea in the budget!

Find a vintage Sansui, AU-9500... best integrated I've heard at the $1500 price point. 

Pre-owned REGA 

I have had Heresy’s since I was 18, now with my big brothers 74’s rebuilt. Love them, then added Omega crossoverless single drivers, love them more. Listen to alot of low level ambient and to 85db jazz and blues mand more. I have the Omega JR XRS towers, small footprint and beautiful cabinets. Louis has several nice standmounts as well.

I had a Rogue Sphinx 3 paired with multiple speakers. I loved the hybrid design and thought it sounded quite good. While traveling for work I got a Peachtree Decco integrated. I was amazed at how good low volume sounded. It was a small apartment with low celings unlike my home. I ended up upgrading to the Rogue Cronus Mangnum III. Low volume is a dream but out of tour price range. I would look at the Sphinx and compare with a Peachtree. TMR usually has both used for under $1500. Good luck.

Call underwood Wally , the Audio GD line has very good value ,and Walter 

owns the Peach tree Audio line and May Ave something  close to your budget 

if you can stretch to around $2k  it would be much more feasible and much higher quality parts. You dont want a $20 Alps volume pot it robs resolution .

a relay controlled ,or resistive ladder is much better.

Higher sensitivity speakers. Will make the biggest difference, especially if your looking for a $1500 integrated to fix your problem. Your 400's are rated at 87db, which means they are probably along the lines of 85db. I've never heard your 400's but with those specs I would imagine you need to turn it up a little to hear all the details, dynamics, and bass on the same level. Lower the volume and you are missing a couple quality's of the loudly played music.

If what I'm describing is the issue you are having then I think you should look for higher sensitivity speakers. If what I described is not really a problem for you then spend your money elsewhere. Good luck 

Try an Allen Eaton tube amp (no need for pre), and a pair of caintuck audios fast 15 - that setup is slightly over budget but man will it sound magical at low to mid volume levels. Great combo.

Look at Musical fidelity M3i  ,  very good amplifier.

I found that low level listening was best done with super quiet gear. I had a lot of success with Benchmark AHB2 and LA4 preamp for that type of listening. Music details at low volume are not obscured by noisy gear.

Now if you want to skip the low level requirement but in the same physical space. Get a RAAL SR1a earphone and have 2 channel sound at any volume level in your space. I listen to the SR1a or CA-1a (not 2-channel sound) late at night, such as right now, when everyone is sleeping. Listening to Led Zeppelin now and it is as loud as I want it. I am using a Schitt Aegir amp for this ($800).

I totally understand where you are coming from, selling can be a hassle. But the truth is low level listening has much more to do with the speaker, its impedance curve and its sensitivity, then the amplifier’s characteristics. You already have a very beefy amp which is more then capable of driving your speakers, so if that amp doesn’t do it for you at low volumes, a $1,500 integrated will likely be a downgrade. Plus as I mentioned, high sensitivity speakers may cost a bit more up front, but you can easily get away with a lower cost integrated.

True high sensitivity designs tend to be large to compensate for the bass tradeoff, the Heresy is among the smallest that I know of with a true high 90’s sensitivity. Honestly from a floor space perspective it doesn’t take up much more room then a stand mounted speaker. Are you placing these on a cabinet or shelf? If not I’d seriously consider them, they are awesome. Many people actually place them on stands. I’ve even been to a bar that had some old versions wall mounted. The sound was incredible. I have the Forte IV’s myself and they’ll never leave.

Another way to achieve high sensitivity without a huge box is to get rid of the crossover and use a full range driver. Zu Audio has a few designs like this and they do make a bookshelf, though its a rather large bookshelf. Check out the Zu DWX. I have no personal experience with the DWX though. Others may be able to chime in.

Probably a step down in a few ways, and you'd be buying an internal DAC and Phono Stage, that you already have, but..

The Parasound NewClassic 200 Integrated is a nice class D Integrated.

What makes it great for low-level listening is it's feature-ridden, back-lit, remote. From the remote you can adjust bass, treble and sub levels, turn sub off/on (great for placement testing) and you can return to flat levels at the touch of one button. I've driven B&W 606 s2 Anniversary editions and Kef R30's with great results..at normal and low levels.

Much of my listening is at low level and I've really enjoyed this little integrated. I had separates before and downsizing pushed me to look at Integrated. No regrets! 

They run in the $1,200 to $1,300 range, new.

I have always adored the sound of my Musical Fidelity A1 (2008) version Class A integrated.  But it does run HOT.

I listen with Reference 3A DeCapo I speakers, 90 db and no crossover, the midwoofer rolls off naturally so just a high pass cap on the tweeter.

If the new $1600 msrp Musical Fidelity A1 sounds as good as my 2008 version, I think you would love it.

I'm very pleased with my Rogue Sphinx...Plenty of power, all analog of course. Reasonable price. 

Thanks lanx. I'm going to try on my WIIM, imminently. 

Thanks Elliot...:Great tips no matter what my system.

@stereo5 Wrote:

If you want to waste your money, buy an amp.  If you want to solve your problem, get higher efficiency (93db and higher) speakers.  Buying a bigger or more powerful amp will NOT help low level listening. 

I agree! 😎

Mike

+1 @elliottbnewcombjr

However, before acquiring more gadgets, consider implementing the F-M curve concept by using the internal 24 EQ presets or a 10-band graphical EQ in your Wiim Pro streamer, especially if you’re planning to downsize.  I have found that effective for low level listening at night.

"Lower volume not so much"

How low? Do you think you may be in the low volume region whereby some Bass Boost is needed (by all of us)?

Fletcher-Munson analysis, and solutions exist

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equal-loudness_contour

In the old days, all receivers and all preamps had a ’loudness’ filter, which was actually a ’low volume compensation filter’, based on Fletcher Munson curves, boosting bass progressively as volume lowered (also boosted highs, but bass is more important).

One way to add Fletcher Munson curve to a system without it is this Chase Remote Line Controller RLC-1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115950746438?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338381866&toolid=10001&customid=7dfb441e-72d0-11ee-a314-313035333933

it starts at a default volume with no F-M compensation. As you lower the volume below default, it automatically and progressively implements F-M bass boost, in relation to the reduced volume.

Essentially ALL Preamps/Amps need this (modern equipment lacks ’loudness’ filters), and all speakers need to receive boosted bass signals at low volume.

Therefore, different speakers will not solve the problem, different integrated amp will not solve the problem.

Add a gizmo? No one, none of my friends, including myself are able to detect whether the Chase unit is in or out of my system.

Right now I have a 200w at 8 ohms Aragon so not looking for more power, less is what I' m seeking

Thansk stero5. Normally I might go with that, but I'm just trying to downsize.

If you want to waste your money, buy an amp.  If you want to solve your problem, get higher efficiency (93db and higher) speakers.  Buying a bigger or more powerful amp will NOT help low level listening. 

Thanks soix. It's just that I don' want to be selling and buying more than I can least do. 

Thanks Jl35. Interesting but over my price range unless used

Agree with @perkadin that if you’re looking for better low-level listening you’re better off with higher-sensitivity speakers, and they don’t need to be floorstanders.  Speakers that are easier to drive tend to open up easier at lower volume levels, and I highly doubt you’re gonna find what you’re looking for driving your speakers with a $1500 amp.  Put another way and more directly, I think you’re barking up the wrong tree here in terms of what you’re looking for.  I’m no expert in high-sensitivity, easy-to-drive speakers from the likes of Klipsch, horn speakers, etc., but I’d be looking there first, and it’d also open up more options for an integrated amp as you wouldn’t need nearly as much power.  Just my $0.02 FWIW, and best of luck. 

Belles Aria, no DAC but a nice MM phono stage...

Thanks srinsr

Also note that they both have internal DACs. You can A/B them against your gustard - you may well end up with one less component!

Thanks srinisr: both worth checking out

Used Parasound HINT or Cambridge audio cxa 81

Thanks Jason. I'll check them out

The Quads (all versions) can't be beat for low-level resolution. Regardless of whether made in the UK or China.