If it sounds 'great', everything is ok?

I've not noticed that AS has much affect on the apparent L to R location of images on an LP, but I confess I never paid much attention to that when setting AS, because imaging is more about azimuth adjustment, in my mind.  No argument here.

lewm

I also finalize by ear, using my favorite CD and LP versions of this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friday_Night_in_San_Francisco

CD version 1st; side 2, last 2 tracks: all 3 guitarists play, strong L/C/R separation.

Now LP: same tracks: refine AntiSkate if/as needed to move center guitar l or r to be centered, also hear balance of l and r guitars, also hear balance of audience cheers

 

Side 1

No.	Title	Performers	Length
1.	"Mediterranean Sundance/Río Ancho" (Al Di Meola, Paco de Lucía)	Paco de Lucía (left channel) and Al Di Meola (right channel)	11:25
2.	"Short Tales of the Black Forest" (Chick Corea)	John McLaughlin (left channel) and Al Di Meola (right channel)	8:39

Side 2

No.	Title	...	Length
3.	"Frevo Rasgado" (Egberto Gismonti)	John McLaughlin (left channel) and Paco de Lucía (right channel)	7:54
4.	"Fantasia Suite" (Al Di Meola)	Paco de Lucía (left channel), John McLaughlin (middle channel) and Al Di Meola (right channel)	8:41
5.	"Guardian Angel" (John McLaughlin)	Paco de Lucía (left channel), John McLaughlin (middle channel) and Al Di Meola (right channel)	4:00

 

@dweller 

Ha! I have a habit of touching my drivers as I occasionally walk by my speakers that have built-in powered sub woofers  One night I just wasn't getting the magic out of my stereo rig and walked by one of my tower speakers, touched the woofer and sure enough, not working!! Had it repaired and now back in the magic

Dear Elliott, I cannot find where you might have written about the amount of AS relative to VTF, and I do see where you described how you arrive at a suitable setting, using a grooveless area on vinyl. Your method as described would be unlikely to arrive at an amount of AS very near to or equal to VTF. So, mea culpa. My mistake.

I would additionally remark that since the skating force is a result of friction between stylus and groove, I would prefer to set AS while the stylus is in the groove, because the friction force in a groove is likely to be different from the friction force on a flat area of vinyl. And I do it by ear not by watching the arm move toward the spindle. However, I know there is a school of thought, including some highly respected audio professionals, that recommends your method, so I am in no position to say I am right and all of them are wrong.

lewm

"Just one teeny, weeny thing: Back up the thread, Elliott recommended to set AS to equal VTF or some high percentage of VTF."

lewm,

either someone else, or maybe I worded something wrong,

but I use the Blank LP method, don’t even think about VTF, just start AS at zero, spin platter manually (easy with direct drive) watch the arm pull in (if it doesn’t there is something wrong), add anti-skate a bit at a time, checking in the two approximate null point locations, and set it with no outward force, consistently floating, or if needed to avoid ’out’ set it for a speck of inward pull, rather than a spec of out.

I don't look at VTA before or after, just the actual results.

I re-check perhaps monthly, to confirm both VTF, AS, and if removable headshell: view Azimuth from front with mirror method.

@elliottbnewcombjr 

'Why did you mention Rowen TT1? Is it a variation of Clearaudio? Made for them by Clearaudio?'

Sorry for the confusion..

https://www.rowen.ch/en/index.php

ROWEN is a Swiss Company who brought his 'own' tt to the market. Basically, it is a Clearaudio Concept. But marketed as the ROWEN TT1. The only visible difference is the 'R' on the front of the tt.

ROWEN declares that they let Clearaudio develop and build the ROWEN TT1 according to ROWEN's ideas. ROWEN's contribution is the developpment of another frame and motor control system and has slightly modified the tone arm.

However, no further (technical) details are known or disclosed.

 

Just one teeny, weeny thing: Back up the thread, Elliott recommended to set AS to equal VTF or some high percentage of VTF.  With all respect to E, most agree that the AS force should be set to some small fraction of VTF.  In another concurrent thread, you can read where Mijostyn has calculated that AS should be precisely 11% of VTF.  I am not necessarily in agreement with his dogmatism on the subject, especially since he built a Rube Goldberg device to measure AS that none of the rest of us has, but I do agree that he is in the ballpark.  (Wally make an AS measuring device, too.) There are a lot of ways to set AS, but what I do is to first listen to a representative LP without any AS.  I typically hear distortion in the R channel with no AS.  I then add AS in very tiny increments only until that distortion disappears.  So you could say I do it by ear.  But VTF = AS in magnitude is definitely too much AS.

One problem I have with tonearms that have a dial setting for AS, usually marked in numbers from 0 to 5, or something like that, is that we don't know what those numbers mean.  The dial setting is typically found where AS is done magnetically. Do the numbers refer to "grams" of AS?  Or are the numbers to be correlated with grams of VTF, where 2g of VTF is to correlate with setting the dial to 2. Because 2g of AS, which is applied at the pivot is not equal to 2g applied at the headshell.  To me this is another reason to do it by ear.

prior post: "as his tt is a Clearaudio with magnetic tone arm."

quick look at Verify Arm, anti-skate, pg 15, also from below.

https://clearaudio.de/_assets/_pdf/manuals/tonearms/CA_Verify_E+D.pdf?d=1667911999

when they say counterclockwise is weaker, I would interpret that -5 full turns is fully weak/ZERO

Why did you mention Rowen TT1? Is it a variation of Clearaudio? Made for them by Clearaudio?

https://www.rowen.ch/en/data/rowen_tt1.php

Confusion: Clearaudio has a TT1 arm .You don’t need anti-skate on Linear Tracking Tonearms

https://clearaudio.de/_assets/_pdf/manuals/tonearms/CA_Statement_TT1_E.pdf?d=1671461176

@elliottbnewcombjr

Thank you for all these detailed information. We are talking about the Verify arm. And yes, the alignment template is available.

There is one BIG difference between the anti skating screw/knob of the Clearaudio Concept and the ROWEN TT1: The screw on the latter has no zero marker. So, it will be necessary to figure zero anti skate first in order to be able to set VTF correctly.

I will provide an update as soon as I have received feedback from my friend.

 

 

 

 

eagledriver_22

Switzerland, a land of precision: terrific, he must have a friend who knows about TT setup.

Clearaudio ’Clarify’ Tonearm Manual (example, what arm does your friend have?)

https://clearaudio.de/_assets/_pdf/manuals/tonearms/CA_Clarify_E+D.pdf?d=1667911999

other arms here

https://clearaudio.de/en/products/tonearms.php

They recommend a digital gauge to set stylus force (no interference with magnetic bearing, no ’seesaw’ type needed.

Presumably the arm was installed by a pro, and is correct. Hopefully the alignment template was provided to your friend. IF NOT, I would request a template from Clearaudio.

The manual/template shows everything you need to know about mounting the arm, the cartridges’ overhang; and cartridges’ two null point alignments.

arm height a single set screw from the side of the base plate.

to align azimuth, there is a set screw in the bottom of the arm tube near it’s head

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

anti-skate is inconveniently located below the plinth.

manual page 14

level via adjustable feet must be maintained while in adjustment position with 1 corner ’in outer space’ for access to adjustment screw below. then level re-confirmed when TT moved back to operating location.

After confirmation of arm and cartridge: IF the cartridge will not track within the specified range 1.4g to 1.7g something is wrong, EVEN IF it sounds GREAT.

Note: anti-skate needs to be reduced to zero from below BEFORE adjusting tracking force; then add tracking force; then back below to ’add’ anti-skate as final setting.

Note: ANY subsequent adjustment of tracking force: anti-skate needs to be reduced to zero again, tracking force set; anti-skate set.

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

basic confirmation:

1. suppose arm mounting and cartridge mounting (overhang/two null points), azimuth, arm height are verified correctly. (or correct them).

2. anti-skate needs to be reduced to zero before step 3.

3. tracking force set to 1.7g max with digital gauge

4. ’add’ anti-skate.

a. blank disc method

b. Clearaudios’ Trackability Test Record

We recommend the Clearaudio Trackablity Test Record available from www.analogshop.de or from your specialist retailer for a professional and perfect anti-skating setting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Kind of agree with wolf garcia sometimes....

my turntable sounds great too, but I regularly have a skilled friend with ALL the tools recalibrate it regularly (he enjoys doing this)...not sure if it sounds better, but technically it always needs some adjustment...I like knowing it's set up correctly...I did just use some maple dowel hole buttons as recommended by Pierre of Mapleshade, and things do sound better (at $9.99 for a bag of 50)...lots of tweaks are easy, fun and cost nothing...

It's not "OK" to assume you're system sounds great...you need to fuss incessantly over tiny details, spend a small or large fortune on hyperbole festooned gear, fill your listening space with sound absorbing ugly stuffings, and take as fact the meandering nonsense of people who have no idea what you like or what your system sounds like. Then face the fact that it's never going to sound as fabulous as anybody else's system and simply give up.

@dill here here ...        Yaaaaaay!

 

One thing I love about hanging out around here is when you ask for the benefit of others expertise in the hobby, as long as you do it without being a complete d**k, folks show up pretty quickly with the right answers.

 

I'm not into vinyl, but love to read some of these threads too, because it's always fun to learn, right?  And who knows, I might be able to at least get in a good barb in, Lol.

 

my input on this matter:  first of all, there's no such thing as a stupid question. I'm, personally, glad you had the courage to ask, because I guarantee you others had the exact same Q. 

And I have some other heavy wisdom to lay on you. I haven't been at this nearly as long as a lot of others around here, and admittedly I don't tweak much anymore because I'm real pleased with the sound I'm getting out of my system, but I've done my fair share and have come to the conclusion that it's part of the fun of the hobby. 

So have fun tweakin. Because that's one of the ways we learn.

@elliottbnewcombjr 

My friend lives in Switzerland. Detour ahead 😃

To all who contributed in a friendly and helpful manner, I say thanks a million for your support. Much appreciated!

 

BDW

I'm too old to be a troll,

but not too old to rock and roll 😎

 

Cheers, eagledriver

@elliottbnewcombjr 

Thanks a lot for your assessement and advise. It will be helpful to my friend, as well as other comments. I agree that 71% more VTC as recommended by Ortofon appears to be a bit too much (Wear and tear on the cartridge and stylus). 

My friend needs to invest some quiet time to get the right things done, if he does not want to replace the cartridge after a few month.

Cracks me up.  Troll post if I ever saw one.  All these armchair quarterbacks convinced that if it sounds great, something must be wrong!

though I also know people who were "happy" with their system's sound until they heard something they actually liked a lot more, and wasn't expensive...,so it's also very relative to knowing what your options actually are...so maybe it sounds great, but might sound "greater" if properly set up - either way, no worries...

If it sounds good to him, that’s all that matters.  I have a friend from collage who still has the receiver and speakers he bought in the seventies, and he still is very happy with the sound. I’ll never tell him he’s wrong.

 

clearthinker

everything's relative.

your example: .4g extra on 2.5g is +16% 

1. 2M Black specs say track at 1.4 to 1.7g.

2.9 g is +1.2g, which is +71% of OEM's max tracking force.

Something else is wrong if this extra 71% is needed. 

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

Not only more wear on it's expensive Shibata tip, and more wear on the grooves: it must be restricting the proper movement without and within.

the suspension/compliance/magnet movement within the body are in no way close to their design parameters.

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

Cantilever Material? Ortofon info does not mention it. I found a 2M LVB 250 upgrade that has Boron. I therefore 'presume' 2M Black is Aluminum.

It won't take much time for that aluminum cantilever to deflect from the extra weight, becoming a 'low rider', WRONG VTA will result.

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

His entire TT setup needs to be re-evaluated. TT Deck level? Platter Level to Deck; Arm properly mounted: proper Spindle to Pivot, parallel/perpendicular to the deck/platter.

Cartridge: overhang, two null points alignment, proper cartridge tightening; Arm height (parallel to LP when in the groove. Azimuth from Front, VTA from side when in he groove. Now factory tracking force; now anti-skate.

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

This is exactly why I recommend everybody acquire the simple tools, and practice setup until they find it is not as hard as anticipated. Or make friends with someone nearby; or pay someone to set it up in your home.

Where does your friend live? Perhaps a member here lives nearby. Anywhere near Plainfield, NJ?

I know that if I took my car to a service center,paid good money for a service and was told that they did it by ’feel’. When they ’felt good’ about the intervention, that was all the car needed. I would feel ripped off.

 

If I went to catch a commercial jetliner and they said that the pilot didn’t learn how to fly. The new policy is that they abandon the instruments and do it by ’feel’. No training neccessary. I would never fly again.

 

If you aren’t serious about cartridge set up and want to do it by ’feel’. Go ahead. It is your property. Do what you wish.

@ashoka             Enjoy listening to your steaks.

@elliottbnewcombjr     Sorry, the obsession with low tracking weight ended decades ago.  Record wear is much exaggerated.  With MCs tracking at around 2.5g I have never heard it on any of my records.  We all accept stylus wear is inevitable and not much affected by an extra 0.4g of weight.

To start with always observe the manufacturer's advice on tracking weight. Set up with weight in the middle of his range.  If it doesn't track cleanly add weight 0.1g at a time until it does.  If it already does, lower it 0.1g at a time and see if it tracks securely.  Stop if you reach the bottom of his range.  If you hear the slightest mistracking, especially on high level, high frequency programme then add 0.2g back on and leave it.

Apart from poorer sound, more damage is done to records and stylus by mis-tracking at too light weight than by tracking at a few 0.1gs more.

Always use enough weight to track securely.

Yes, leave it alone !    I am at the point where I am afraid to make any changes.....   really digging how everything sounds.   

Yes

To enjoy music Ear is best judge. measurement is like putting thermometer to into every cm of steak for perfect temperature(and salt spice...), enjoyment is in eating the steak. 

Sure!

There are going to be opposing views on the dangers of high VTF. Some would say it's better for the stylus to remain firmly seated in the groove, even at a bit too high a VTF, versus being too light and risking mis-tracking, or even bouncing around in/out of the groove. 

If I found out I'd been running a cartridge at 2.9g for (say) a week by accident, I'd correct it but wouldn't sweat the "what ifs" about whether damage may have occurred. Quite frankly I'm surprised an Ortofon 2M could hit 2.9g without bottoming out, since they're already low riders by nature and have fairly compliant suspensions. 

FWIW Ortofon's high-end MC's are spec'd to track as high as 2.5g or 2.6g, and I think some SPUs may be even beyond that.

from Shure 1954 bulletin

"the downward pressure of the stylus tip on the record groove. The greater this pressure the greater the amount of friction generated between the walls of the record groove and the stylus tip. Increased friction naturally results in increased wear."

adding 1 gm over specs ain't good!

Most of these digital scales come with a 1 gm weight to use to check it's accuracy. Perhaps your friend forgot it came with one.

modern cartridge tracking 2.9 g ain't good. Can sound good now, however it needs to be properly checked, soon.

One of the criteria I look for is light tracking force. Less wear on both stylus and grooves, IF it can stay in the groove which is not always easy.

Shure's always went for 'trackibility', their last great MM was V15Vxmr, it tracked between 1.0 and 1.5, I used 1.25. Stiffest Ever: Beryllium cantilever with MicroRidge Stylus.

I looked sideways at my Beryllium cantilever and it shattered (I dropped it about 1").

AT440ml tracks 1.25

Current AT33PTG/II MC tracks at 2.0g

 

@eagledriver_22

The Clearaudio magnetic bearing arms are far enough away from the VTF scale that it should not affect the measurement at all. However these arms are extremely sensitive to footfalls (or feedback) and require meticulous isolation to work well - but if you’re concrete slab they should be OK.

Yes, it’s perfectly possible the VTF is actually 2.9g and still sounds good. That might even be smoothing over issues with the magnetic arm (which I’m definitely not a fan of - especially the Concept and Clarify models. If he has a Magnify, that one is a hybrid and I like it much better). 2.9g won’t hurt anything in the immediate short term, but you really do want to verify and adjust that down to 2.0g max.

So far, many thanks to all of you for your time and effort in answering to my question. Which is acutally a question from a friend living 200 miles south. I have some knowledge regarding this topic (and 4 different tt's in operation) but I know you might have even more (knowledge). So, I am glad you are supporting me.

Special thanks to

@vonhelmholtz Since you are happy with what you have, why not ask if incorrectly setup tonearm/cartridge will damage a record?

@mulveling (....) if is sounds really good, it probably isn’t too far off the mark on anything. Maaaybe VTF and anti-skate can get into "you shouldn’t do that" territory without being overtly audibly bad. But VTF is super easy to check & re-check, and anti-skate should be applied sparingly. 

You might add some conditions, too:

• Does it remain good across the whole record surface, especially inner grooves?
• Does it retain clean playback at loud SPL (exposing feedback and rumble issues), assuming the owner chooses to enjoy those levels? Boy has that one bit me lately lol.

and @elliottbnewcombjr

As to the main raison of my friend's question. It appears that the tracking force he has applied is around 1gr higher than recommended in the user guide of the Ortofon MM Black. However, he measured VTF with a digital scale. And this not a good idea as his tt is a Cleraudio with magnetic tone arm.

Despite the 2.9gr the digital scale is showing, he says the sound quality is 'super' to his ears. I assume that the 2.9gr is an incorrect reading. I will recommend to use a basic analog scale ("seesaw" model) and to compare this value with the other one given by the digital scale.

If VTF is really way too high, vonhelmholtz's comment comes into play

If the sound quality is 'super' to my friends ears, is it possible that the VTF is far away from being correctly set? --> coming back to my initial question.

Best regards, eagledriver

 

 

 

You don’t know what you don’t know. It is likely it could sound better to you. Hence, experimentation with your system can be beneficial. It starts with basic setup then goes to interconnects, vibration control and spreads out. Turns out there is virtually always gains to be gotten.

Having over the decades occasionally found that I had been happily listening to a system that was later found to be out of whack in a major way, I would say the short answer to the OP is "no".  But some imperfections of set-up or function are OK to leave alone.  Or, don't worry; be happy.  As time goes on, you will chip away at what you have in search of the elusive quality known as perfection.  They say Michelangelo could "see" his images even in a virgin lump of marble.

If you're happy, you're happy. That's probably a truism or some egregious and simplistic error to philosophers, but I'll stand by it.

The only problem comes along when you want to compare your sound (and thus, your happiness) with that of others. Then it all gets complicated.

Many, many more of us (I include myself) should stop worrying and learn to love the bomb just enjoy what we have. Otherwise, there will be no peace in our lives, and more importantly, less appreciation for the music we could have enjoyed.

A clear sigh of Audio Neurosis.

Stay off audio forums and enjoy listening to your LP’s.

Get a considerably better table setup/phonostage to hear a significantly "greater" sound.

Of course we will try to overcomplicate this. But I think that’s a fair rule of thumb to simplify the 1-million-variable complexity of vinyl setups: if is sounds really good, it probably isn’t too far off the mark on anything. Maaaybe VTF and anti-skate can get into "you shouldn’t do that" territory without being overtly audibly bad. But VTF is super easy to check & re-check, and anti-skate should be applied sparingly. 

You might add some conditions, too:

• Does it remain good across the whole record surface, especially inner grooves?
• Does it retain clean playback at loud SPL (exposing feedback and rumble issues), assuming the owner chooses to enjoy those levels? Boy has that one bit me lately lol.

I got a new Fluance RT85 a few years ago that sounded obviously "wrong" on first listen. There was a significant Left / Right imbalance, plus additional sonic problems, almost like the channels were a bit out of phase. Then I looked at the headshell, and the factory-installed Ortofon 2M Blue was clearly mis-aligned in the shell: it had a significant offset angle deviation, when the cantilever was straight. Squaring it in the headshell 100% fixed the sound. I forget if I even bothered to verify alignment on any of my tools lol. It still sounds good to this day.

That’s great, for a while, however

if something(s) off, inaudible.un-noticable now, there is the potential for future deterioration.

IMO, everyone should acquire the basic inexpensive tools, and learn to mount and align a cartridge. Then make periodic checks.

.........................................................

 

your arm/cartridge’s setup. all must be precisely done a. TT level (check at platter, AND check at base of arm (verify arm is mounted level with the deck) b. remove any anti-skate force, (last thing to do) c. cartridge/stylus tip: set overhang (for that arm, _____? MM in front of spindle). d. Null points (2). (for that arm). Look down from above, see the cartridge body relative to the null point lines. Look sideways, position of the arm/cartridge the stylus tip at the indicated line. Adjust the cartridge body in the headshell, so that it’s body is parallel to the lines at both null point lines. (i.e. twist cartridge left or right in the headshell). (do not move cartridge forward or back, i.e. do not alter the overhang, double check the overhang). c. arm height. remove any tracking force, use big weight to level the arm when in playing position. Note, the cartridge/arm will be very slightly up when cue lever is down, arm floating. the arm should be parallel to the lp when the and stylus is in the groove. d. set tracking force. use digital stylus force meter to get the tracking force in the middle of the range specified by the cartridge maker. LP off the TT, the scales are the thickness of an LP. e. Azimuth, viewed from the front. lp off, a mirror the thickness of an lp, placed below the stylus. ANY deviation from ’straight’ will be reflected ’opposite’ in the mirror, (easier to see). adjust so that there is no off vertical. IF not straight, solutions: 1. shims above one side of the cartridge 2. some play when the removable headshell is tightened. 3. arm has a set screw at the headshell mount: loosen, rotate to straight, tighten 4. buy a headshell with azimuth adjustment, like ’Pat’s adjustable azimuth on ebay. By hook or crook, azimuth is correct. f. balance the arm: use the big weight to balance the arm, lever down. (arm very slightly up, will drop down to level when lowered onto the LP. g, add tracking force. set in the middle of the maker’s range for that cartridge. i.e. maker says: 1.25 tp 1.75, set at 1.5 gm Now the arm should be parallel when the stylus is in the groove. h. last: anti-skate force. 1. spin the platter when on a blank disc with no grooves, it should naturally ’skate’ into the center. this is what anti-skate’s opposite force will eliminate. Generally the anti-skate needs to be equal to the tracking force. You cannot trust the anti-skate dials. Add some anti-skate force, spin the platter, watch, add more/less force until the arm does not pull in or pull out. spin a few times, adjust as needed. DONE!       Report this   elliottbnewcombjr   3,720 posts 03-06-2023 at 01:50pm ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; My tools for cartridge alignments:   CARTRIDGE ALIGNMENT   elliottbnewcombjr   3,529 posts 12-16-2022 at 09:02am I put this together in another discussion. Not meant to scare you, or anyone starting out, just to encourage everyone to learn, bit by bit, and acquire the simple tools and skills to change/align your cartridges after the first one is worn, (typically elliptical, avg. 250 hours play time. If you get hooked on vinyl, which I suspect is a high probability: ............................................. elliottbnewcombjr I’m a bargain hunter, I say ’inexpensive’ tools and these are them: I put this together for a friend, I hope the links are still good TOOLS FOR LP’S CARTRIDGES $15. ALIGNMENT DISC: one side: Lines for Overhang and Two NULL Points ANTI-SKATE: other blank side: spin platter manually, adjust anti-skate control while watching https://www.amazon.com/Hudson-Hi-Fi-Turntable-Cartridge-Protractor/dp/B01MU6AD2E/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1HK4102CVP5X2&keywords=hudson+hifi+protractor&qid=1652980845&sprefix=hudson+hifi+protractor,aps,120&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1 $14. TRACKING FORCE, Digital Scale https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Turntable-Backlight-Tracking-Cartridge/dp/B071P9VZ5Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=10W9ADQJF0QMC&keywords=tracking+force+scale+turntable&qid=1652982087&sprefix=tracking+force+,aps,67&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 $10. AZIMUTH and VTA Alignment Block: clear actylic with Grid of Lines https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Tonearm-Cartridge-Alignment-Headshell/dp/B07794JXYZ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=20KYR5S10Y5C1&keywords=azimuth+alignment+tool&qid=1652982195&sprefix=azimuth%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-8 $6. MAGNIFYING MIRROR to VIEW STYLUS (two). 3-1/2” DIAMETER, One: 10X; One 20x + 2 tweezers https://www.amazon.com/Magnifying-Funtopia-Magnifier-Tweezers-Blackhead/dp/B093BPDZZD/ref=sr_1_29?crid=3MVJVIBL6SMFW&keywords=small%2Bmakeup%2Bmirror%2B15%2Bx%2B3.5&qid=1652983011&sprefix=small%2Bmake%2Bup%2Bmirror%2B15x%2B3.5%2Caps%2C73&sr=8-29&th=1 $11. FLAT MIRROR to View Azimuth Reflection 4” X 6” X 3MM. Thickness of LP, place under the stylus, view from front, any deviation from straight will be reflected ‘opposite’. https://www.amazon.com/Plymor-Rectangle-Beveled-Glass-Mirror/dp/B07T31MRZ9/ref=sr_1_8?crid=BQ3FJFG31C2D&keywords=small%2Bflat%2Bmirror&qid=1652983461&sprefix=small%2Bflat%2Bmirror%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-8&th=1 $13. STYLUS CLEANING FLUID, Audio Technica https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT607a-Cartridge-Stylus-Cleaner/dp/B00DI8I2JM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=7HHAU2OW7TGG&keywords=stylus+cleaner&qid=1653006308&sprefix=stylus+cleaner%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-5 CLEAN LPs $50. MANUAL LP WASH SYSTEM (do batches of 10) https://www.amazon.com/Record-Cleaner-Cleaning-Brushes-Microfiber/dp/B07VQN5XML/ref=sr_1_67?crid=21DNL6IO42FSJ&keywords=lp+cleaning+kit&qid=1652984282&sprefix=lp+cleaning+kit%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-67 $9. INFANT SCALP SCRUBB BRUSHES (3). Scrub Dirty LP’s Vigotously, then rinse in above system https://www.amazon.com/Scalp-Scrubbie-Sterile-Cradle-Sponge/dp/B005EJ7YH4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DSF6EWMO77AC&keywords=infant+scalp+brush&qid=1652984426&sprefix=infant+,aps,77&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2W58AXSS61W30 $13. OVERSIZED EYEGLASS CLOTHS, Dust LP ONLY IF Needed (13 pack). I DO NOT use a brush anymore. Place LP on platter, just lay cloth on, spin platter by hand while very lightly pulling cloth off the edge to remove surface dust, not push anything down into the grooves. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S374VSO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=edf8ce1bb96b6c730ccf869039f09147&hsa_cr_id=7286139130601&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=69ff5251-fe67-4b12-ae01-d114bdce0de0&pd_rd_w=6xLCx&pd_rd_wg=aIG7G&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_lsi4d_asin_1_img $1.00 DISTILLED WATER https://www.amazon.com/365-Everyday-Value-Distilled-Water/dp/B074J5L82H/ref=sr_1_7_f3_0o_wf?crid=3O8SQDLD5NYKI&keywords=distilled+water&qid=1653006535&sprefix=distilled+water%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-7 $6. ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, 91%, 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Brand-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Antiseptic/dp/B07NFTZ522/ref=sr_1_20?crid=3R7PQ8NF1MDMK&keywords=isopropyl%2Balcohol%2B91&qid=1653006688&sprefix=isopropyl%2Balcohol%2B9%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-20&th=1 $15. GEL STYLUS CLEANER https://www.amazon.com/Turntable-Stylus-Needle-Cleaning-Gel/dp/B086T4RLY3/ref=sr_1_52?crid=VNKUXR7SGLH0&keywords=stylus+brush&qid=1653008196&sprefix=stylus+brush%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-52 $14. STYLUS BRUSH, Carbon Fiber, Non-Slip Textured Handle https://www.amazon.com/Boundless-Audio-Stylus-Cleaning-Brush/dp/B087182G57/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3GLAZP4MMEO2J&keywords=STYLUS+CLEANING+BRUSH&qid=1653009531&sprefix=stylus+cleaning+,aps,65&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1   MISCELLANEOUS $13. ISOLATION PADS below Turntable, I wrapped my edges with black tape) https://www.amazon.com/Turntable-Equipment-Tuneful-Cables-Audiophile/dp/B076DGD3X2/ref=sr_1_178_sspa?crid=VNKUXR7SGLH0&keywords=stylus%2Bbrush&qid=1653008611&sprefix=stylus%2Bbrush%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-178-spons&th=1 $__ CENTER WEIGHT, Disc Stabilizer. Size/Weight/Style Vary, how strong is your motor? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=audio+technica+record+weight&i=electronics&crid=1OQGMXU52UY8V&sprefix=audio+technica+record+weight%2Celectronics%2C83&ref=nb_sb_noss_1     Rulers $6. Pair of Metal Rulers, mm and inches, starts on the edge of the ruler https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Stainless-Centimeters-Drawing-Measuring/dp/B07ZS4JSQP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1LATKSHREH6JX&keywords=stainless+steel+ruler&qid=1654711597&sprefix=stainless+steel+ruler%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFaSVVPRE5HWERBOE8mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1NDA4NDExRENXOTRFSkhMVTBMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4MjE3MDMyWDIwREFMR1lGMFJSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== ........................................ $31. Finally, Removable Headshell with Azimuth Adjustment You adjust it ONCE for your arm’s fitting which may be ’off’. Then, each time you use that headshell in that arm: before you tighten the headshell into the arm, there is very minor movement possible, you snug it up, double check it’s azimuth with the mirror, fully tighten Some arms, like the Micro Seiki 505 have an adjustment of the fitting IN the arm, a very nice feature. https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649871273-micro-seiki-ma505-tonearm-including-base/images/3917430/ I installed two of these, standard and long on a Luxman TT for a friend. Magnificent engineering This one has unique base, others a simple hole and bolt below. Report this elliottbnewcombjr 3,414 posts 11-19-2022 at 08:47am Suppose you do not want to add weight on your platter, i.e. the Luxman Motor lifts the platter to reduce bearing wear. These rubber gizmos hold reels on tape recorders. They are the same diameter as the TT platter spindle You press them down, they stay holding the center and pull off easily when done.   you want one’s with flexibility, not dried out that have become rigid/brittle. Above just for a visual example.

It depends on you. Your expectations, your experience, your physical capabilities.

My brother-in law had his speakers hung on the wall. I pointed out that one of his woofers was "blown" to which he was oblivious. To him, his speakers must have sounded, if not great, at least "O.K.".

" It can never sound great because your speakers aren’t tuned to your ears ..."

- Kenjit has been silenced, his AudiogoN account has been deactivated.

Ears beat measurements, but it's always worth hearing other systems to see if your overall balance might be better.

Also, room acoustics are things which many dont' know they need until they've heard a great sounding room. Some may never care.  I know some "audiophiles" that absolutely refuse to invest in room treatments on some moral principle.  Good luck to them. :)

Since you are happy with what you have, why not ask if incorrectly setup tonearm/cartridge will damage a record?

Sorry, I find this question pretty silly.

Of course it's correctly set. To his ears.

 " It can never sound great because your speakers aren't tuned to your ears ..."

                                                      love,

                                                          Kenjit