As you would expect, boistrous arguments break out on bulb directionality. One group claims the bulb goes in clockwise, another group claims it’s counter-clockwise. A third group claims it doesn’t matter. Obviously, the debate how long it takes the bulb to light up once the light switch is flicked is a fierce one.
An audiophile needs to understand light itself better before they install or start doing anything with it. Then the games begin. Where can I buy and audiophile light bulb? Is it real or imaginary, what I am seeing? Will my system sound brighter? What cables can restore my balance when I put a my new audiophile light bulb in? Can I get the distortion measurements of my new light bulb?
Sorry but we cannot change the lightbulb we received as requested above by the OP.
The mfg just notified us its been upgraded to Bulb version 2a and the upgraded bulb 2a is being shipped to us overnight with a signature required (sorry). The bulb we have is unsafe for us to use.
The good news is the upgrade is free but we need to delay its installation until the bulb adjusts to our room temperature. This adjusting process is expected to take 5-7 days.
The installation instructions for the bulb version 2 has been slightly revised. These details are included in the 10 page bulb operating instructions. The Mfg has upgraded the bulbs light sampling rate making it more efficient, less noisy and with clearer light. Please see the bulb’s release notes on their web site for more bulb feature details.
The delay is disappointing but, hopefully, worth it because of these new features. The Mfg also recently announced another bulb upgrade but reports it is 8+ months away. No further details are available at this time. The new bulb 2a will be here sometime on Monday.
Inexplicably, some lightbulb-changers argue that new-fangled, cool-running but high-powered, neon can approach the luminescent warmth of conventional incandescent.
I had an authentic "Uncle Fester" light bulb when I was a kid. Took it to school and got hundreds of laughs. Also got two hours detention after school.......
You guys n gals are forgetting a couple of my bulb installation steps before I can even think of spinning my naked wife (because clothes could generate a harmful static charge )as she's holding the bulb with her velvet gloves on (because she looks sexy nude with nothing on but those soft velvet gloves and okay, maybe her high heels too):
Filament modifications by Phil Ament Technologies. Light absorption panels at first light reflection points just in case the light is excessively bright due to overly pale wall colors.
Even after the bulb has been properly installed, don't forget we also need to decide the important question of whether we turn the bulb off after each use or leave it on 24/7. I'm certain we all understand the bulb can't produce its optimum light quality until it's been properly warmed up.
I think the real concern here is, would the light bulb still be burning had we left it on continuously rather than turning it on and off? Also before we change the bulb, don’t we owe it to ourselves to do so in home demos before we buy. I think Home Depot has a lending library.
I'm not paying $$$ for something I can DIY. So first I sourced Russian made lamp bases. Then after extensive research I developed my own braided filaments using .9999999 copper and tungsten and a material I prefer not to disclose (I'm filing for a patent) in what I call a Hyper Light Braid. The braid creates an optimal distribution of photons across the visible spectrum--though as an older male I do have some upper frequency roll off and dont see deep purple as well as young folks. My wife and kids can though. Color temperature is controlled by the ratio of copper to tungsten to my material X.
Next is the critical issue of bulb type. While the conventional white frosted bulbs are more pleasing they obviously both filter and distort the source. So clear bulbs. But not glass. Currently I'm using crystal specifically Waterford globes. Swarovski is for rich poseurs. I use argon glass to fill the globe at 2 atmospheres. I use a regulated linear power supply of course, rewired with Cardas wire and Wattgate plugs.
The resulting light stage is very broad and deep. I can see the precise location of every component in my big rig. Shadows are very carefully cast with little excess penumbra due to the single point source nature that the braid creates. The light is very revealing of surface imperfections in the panel faces as well as dust on the turntable plinth. But truth is more important than beauty.
So far, it seems that no one, not one commenter, has mentioned the necessity of burning-in the bulb for a minimum of 250 hours before passing critical judgment on the fidelity or balance of the light produced. Likewise the cabling supplying the current...
Changing the light bulb is all well and fine but we audiophiles all know that you have to change the room first. It's a must.
The type of bulb natters too. Forget this eco rubbish, I can tell you that NOS light bulbs are best but they're not cheap. Russian / Chinese replacements might well be acceptable....or they might not.
You might need 2 for stereo or perhaps even 4. Mono light is best left to the sun.
And whilst you're at it, don't forget the switch - faders are out!
Of course there are some who will always insist that scented candles are better.
Ah the age old question. I have researched all opinions, trials, studies, controlled lab testing and I have found out the correct answer and there is only this one answer. The answer is..... Oh, you thought that I was just going to give you my years of research here. Not a chance.
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