I have a relatively nice system, but have done nothing with my AC power, with the exception of upgraded PC’s and a cheap iFi plug in power conditioner. My question is multi fold… do I need to do something, and if so what? Dedicated line (15A or 20?)? Quality power conditioner? Both? Which one first? How do you tell?
My system is a combination of HT & 2 channel & I tend to use both simultaneously as I like to watch sports while listening to music.
My amp is (I think) a relatively low draw… Moon 330A, Rythmik sub, BHK pre, Aurender, Qutest w/Sbooster, R11’s. No high power amps are in my future & never listen above 75db. I do currently plug my amp directly into the wall. All my wall warts are gone. For my HT, add a 75” Sony TV, Marantz 7015 AVR & a Klipsch sub (although at zero volume the AVR & sub should not come into play).
I am considering buying the Furman IT-Reference 15i or 20i first as they are well reviewed & are priced very well on Amazon ($1,400 / $1,900). Before I pull the trigger, should I go dedicated power & at what amperage (my nephew, an EE & audiophile thinks I am drawing no more than 5 amps) as that will dictate the Furman model?
Interesting, my nephew thinks neither are worth the investment. His statement: “Do you have appliances on the circuit now? What kind of interference can they inject?...voltage drops would come from current draws...which trip breakers.
Not steady 60hz a good power supply handles. So it all comes back to was the power supply engineer dropped on his head as a child.”
”Personally I think it’s something audio people do when they have run out of gear to buy.”
Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
Your nephew is clueless about electricity but don’t feel bad, most people are.
The disturbances in your 60 cycle sine wave come from outside the home, mostly from industrial loads. We have non-cyclic loads and supplies now that morph the sine wave. A dedicated line will help keep in-house interference off and more importantly, ensure adequate current is delivered to your amp. but will do nothing about the quality of the power.
The Furman you are looking at does nothing to fix the degraded sine wave. Only a regenerator can do that. PS Audio is the rolls Royce there.
I don’t think you have tube gear but most "conditioners" can’t regulate voltage either. a tube amp thrives with the voltage that it was designed to. Once again, a regenerator will allow you to set the voltage. My voltage is 120.0 +/- .1 V.
Now one last thing. Not all amps and components need clean power. It gets rectified eventually for most purposes and some amps and components work fine with dirty power. So results will vary. But tube amps will always work better with regulated voltage.
@carlsbad2 Thanks for your thoughts. A regenerator is not in my future if for no other reason than space.
On a side note, my nephew graduated with honors from a very well respected engineering school and is currently a distinguished engineer. Not sure of your credentials, but provably not a good idea to start your comments calling him clueless IMHO.
You are getting good advice. My observations, living in apartments and now a detached home is that most significant voltage fluctuations come from seasonal variations as well as major appliances (HVAC, dryer, etc.). It is _very_ rare to see a home user’s equipment draw enough to cause significant sag, but it does happen with mega heavy Class A amps. I base this on having a Furman with voltage output and using plug in voltage monitors.
The dedicated circuit may help reduce noise from other devices on the same circuit, such as for instance PCs, LED light strips, etc.
Based on this my advice is:
Get a whole house surge suppressor for basically everything not on a power strip (GFCI outlets, fire alarms, washer and dryer, etc.)
Get a Furman with SMP, LiFT and EVS to protect your gear from most voltage issues AND significantly reduce line noise, when present.
Optionally get a Furman with AR (voltage regulation). This will keep the voltage within 5 V regardless of your current draw or major appliance usage or season.
@erik_squiresThanks for your thoughts. My amp is just 5W class A before it changes to A/B.
I believe the Furman model I selected is their top model & has the features you recommend… but maybe not. Your link goes to a cross Atlantic yacht trip. Can you resend?
I was just describing why my own gear is more focused on voltage regulation than isolation.
Isolation focuses on noise. Regulation focuses on keeping the line voltage as close to ideal 120V as possible, and tries to compensate for over and under voltages as they occur.
The unit you are suggesting has the most important features. SMP, LiFT and EVS. That will keep your gear noise free and healthy for a long time.
Each step will provide a notable improvement in sound quality. 15amp direct lines... one for amp (no power conditioner) and one for the rest of your components. And a good quality power conditioner. The better quality the better. I would look at Shunyata and IsoTech. Since it is likely you will replace your power conditioner nearly as often as components, it is worth getting a good one. My 75lbs conditioner won awards twenty five years ago when I bought it and has been performing incredibly well since then.
@erik_squiresThanks! That was the unit I thought you were recommending. It would save space & money while providing good voltage regulation, while cleaning power. It does not have additional amp RMS reserves like the reference model. Not sure which is better? @yogiboyYou & my nephew may be (probably are) correct, but I may do this anyway… only downside is $$. @ditusaThanks. I had previously read this and most power threads. IMHO, that thread recommendations are overkill for my purposes & my somewhat modest system.
Interesting, my nephew thinks neither are worth the investment. His statement: “Do you have appliances on the circuit now? What kind of interference can they inject?...voltage drops would come from current draws...which trip breakers.
Not steady 60hz a good power supply handles. So it all comes back to was the power supply engineer dropped on his head as a child.”
”Personally I think it’s something audio people do when they have run out of gear to buy.”
.
voltage drops would come from current draws...which trip breakers.
"which trip breakers." Motor loads can. Non motors loads no.
.
”Personally I think it’s something audio people do when they have run out of gear to buy.”
I strongly disagree...
I assume you are feeding your 2 channel audio equipment and H/T equipment from a single 15 amp convenience outlet branch circuit. FWIW per 2020 NEC (National Electrical Code), there is no limit on the number of 15 amp duplex receptacles that can be installed on a 15 amp convenience outlet branch circuit in a residential dwelling unit. Also worth noting ceiling light fixtures can also be connected to the same branch circuit wiring. Got LED lamps in them fixtures? Harmonic distortion noise...
What wiring method did the residential electrician use to make up the in and out branch circuit joints/connections in the wall outlet boxes? Worst wiring method is using stab in the back residential grade 79 cent duplex receptacle outlets. That’s four connections, (2 hot conductors & 2 neutral conductors) for each outlet times how many wall outlets from the electrical panel to the wall outlet your equipment is plugged into.
Problem with stab in the back outlets? Piss poor connections. Poor connections? AC high frequency harmonic distortion noise caused from micro arcing in all the stab in the back connections. I didn’t even mention the type of loads plugged into wall outlets on the same branch circuit.
I looked at your equipment profile. I would recommend at least two 20 amp dedicated branch circuits. Maybe three... The big Sony TV with its Switch Mode Power supply isn’t helping the sound from the PS Audio BHK Signature Preamp and the Simaudio Moon 330A Amp. Those two analog and any other analog equipment should have it’s own 20 amp dedicated branch circuit. (Note 20 amp branch circuit.) Labor cost is the same whether 15A or 20A. Even the circuit breakers are the same price. Only difference is the price of the wire gauge used. Labor is the biggest cost. Labor for one circuits does not double for two, or triple for three... It doesn’t work that way. Material costs does though.
Depends on the challenges you have. Honestly I have a multi-level system where the first level has a Furman with AR, but only basic surge protection followed by Elite with power factor correction and advanced surge protection and filtering. It didn't start out this way until I lived in a high-rise in San Francisco and started measuring 130V out of the wall. There was nothing the Elite could do about that except shut off if things got too crazy.
Recently had a contractor plug a circular saw onto the same circuit and I watched the voltage after the AR, and it stayed rock solid. I could see the AR switching transformer taps every time the saw turned on and off, but the gear never felt it. That's how stable the voltage is.
@jea48I personally replaced all the receptacles in my house with good quality (albeit not audio quality) Leviton receptacles and attached all wires with the screw connections. The original install did use the stab, and I discovered during my installation, some had busted… Not good!
Good point on what is on the leg I plug into. I will check. Also good point on the cost of 15 vs 20 amp circuit & and multiples thereof. The only issue is my fuse box is becoming overloaded & 2 or 3 20A circuits may require a complete new box. @erik_squiresThanks!
@signaforceSorry about that. I am an Engineering Manager in the electric power industry with 40+ years experience. I have degrees in engineering and physics from well respected universities including the University of Chicago (physics, 1980). Engineers implement physics, physicists actually understand it. So unfortunately I have to stand by my comments. I work with engineers daily who do not understand electricity to the level you need to address the somewhat subtle challenges we face in audio. Tell your nephew to hook up his oscilloscope to the power coming into the house and see if his comments remain the same.
Your rejection of a regenerator for size concerns tells me you're a form-over-function guy. Looks are more important than how it sounds. I'm all about sound and I'll find a way to implement the better sounding option, so we speak different languages.
Finally, it seems clear you had made up your mind before you started this thread. I had a few more technical suggestions but I'll not waste your time.
The last thing you want to do is get an EE involved. You don't need to be an engineer to listen to music. That being said, there's only one way to handle the situation responsibility. When it comes to power products, you have no idea what will happen when you put something in the system. If you hear a difference, it may not be for the better. All of the recommendations you get here are well meaning and honest, but you just can't rely on someone else's opinion. Give the exact same component to 5 different people and you will get 5 different opinions.
If you live in the US, you should call The Cable Company. They're the biggest high end cable and assessor retailer there is. They keep demo units of everything they sell. So, if you want to buy a new power conditioner, for example, call them and go over your system. They'll make 4 or 5 recommendations and send them to you all at once. Listen to them for a couple of weeks and only make a purchase if you find something that's worth paying for.
One thing I can tell you for certain is you have a fairly complicated system. You're mixing HT and 2 channel, and from a power standpoint, you're going to have some surprises. For example, you may think a new conditioner is going to make a big difference only to find out a power cord for your DVD player does the most good. That's why you have to try everything first.
@carlsbad2Thanks. OK, you certainly have credibility. I figured you were an engineer by your directness. 😀 I am not a form over function guy, (maybe function & form) but when you truly don’t have the space… I would have a bigger amp IF there were space. I did come in with a set of ideas, but I am never absolute & am changing my plans real time based upon the outstanding input from this thread. So, if you have any other recommendations… please. @jea48 I powered down the circuit which includes my system. It includes all electrical in my Bonus Room… all outlets & 4 switches. On the outlet side, the only thing plugged in (aside from my system) is an LED bulb floor lamp, which I generally don’t use. One switch for the ceiling fans, one for the ceiling fan lights. The other 2 are for spots I don’t use.
Of a potentially more problematic nature, the Bonus Room leg on the fuse box includes 2 furnaces, 2 AC’s, 2 refrigerators. Looks like I need dedicated lines wired to the other leg. Thanks!
Given that you watch sports and listen to music, it seems like you enjoy the music but may not be actively and intently focused on listening to it. Even if you were, you may not notice an improvement with the Furman. I notice that if I am watching something on the TV, I focus less on the minute details of the music or audio. What is it you are unhappy with in your current system, or what do you want to improve?
If you try the Furman, keep an open mind about returning it if you don’t notice a difference. BTW, I am shocked people are insulting your relative. That says a lot.
"Your nephew is clueless about electricity but don’t feel bad, most people are."
"Not sure of your credentials, but provably not a good idea to start your comments calling him clueless IMHO. "
I appreciate that you probably like your nephew and don't like him being called "clueless", but when it comes to the effects of power imperfections on sound quality, I don't think they teach that at any engineering school. The fact that you are here asking the questions about power conditioners and dedicated circuits, shows that you know that they matter and he might not be the best source on whether either option is worth it.
@12many Thanks, I was also, but he has apologized. You are correct, sometimes I float back and forth between being focused on the game & the music. But also many times I am just listening to music without any TV. Most of the time, my system sounds excellent. Sometimes it sounds slightly harsh. But hard to tell if that is the recording, my room (8 windows) or my hearing aids. As all hearing aid audiophiles know, every thing you buy from a component standpoint is funneling through these tiny digital devices. 😒 So what I want is to continue to improve my sound through judicious well informed investments. @tony1954You are correct!
@052rcThank you, very true. I will look at the cable company.
BTW, on my space issue, my Bonus Room where my system is installed is large. However, there are 8 large windows, a large L shaped couch, a pool table & several components I didn’t list CD, DVR, DVD, Harmony hub, modem, headphones, phono stage, center channel speaker, TT, & 7.2 speakers.
Getting rid of the HT or pool table or a smaller couch is not in the cards, as I enjoy them all. Can’t do anything about the windows & have to place my racks (one low and long, one tall) between them.
The power conditioner will need to be hidden behind my long rack by pulling it out 5 more inches.
But I buy the finest components I can, given my space restrictions.
Normally I would be playing golf, but my club is closed on Monday’s. You gave me something interesting to do today. Thanks!
It has also been my experience that systems sound different day to day. I don't know if it is our brain, ears, or AC power, but I notice that as well. I tried the Shunyata Gemini in my system when a friend lent me his to try, and we both noticed an improvement. I have not tried any of the Furman products. The most you can do is to try them and listen for yourself. Every system is different and you won't know until you try. Please keep us posted on your findings.
I am convinced I need both 2 dedicated 20A power sources & power conditioning and/or regulation.
I would like to do to one at a time to access benefits. Which one would you do first?
Of a potentially more problematic nature, the Bonus Room leg on the fuse box includes 2 furnaces, 2 AC’s, 2 refrigerators. Looks like I need dedicated lines wired to the other leg.
Sounds like you might be thinking all the breakers on the left side of the electrical panel are on one leg, and all the breakers on the right side of the panel are on the other leg. That is not the case... The breakers on each side alternate from Line 1 leg and Line 2 leg down both sides of the panel. The wider breakers, two breakers with a single common handle, are for 240V loads. Single breakers are for 120V loads.
If the guy/gal that wired your house was a Licensed residential electrician he/she would not have put both furnaces on the same Line, leg. He would put one on Line 1 and the other on Line 2. By code he must attempt to balance known 120V loads on both legs the best as possible. Same for 20A branch circuits in the kitchen. Especially appliances.
As for the two ACs (I assume 2 air conditioner outside condensing units), they should be 240Vac. They are fed from both legs.
As for this:
The only issue is my fuse box is becoming overloaded & 2 or 3 20A circuits may require a complete new box.
The electrician has options that he will explain to you.
The cheapest method is to install what is called a tandem breaker. This type of breaker is two single pole breakers in a common molded breaker case. It connects to one Line, leg bus in the panel. (Remove a single one pole breaker and replace it with a tandem.) It would take two tandem breakers to create two spare breakers. (The electrician can move existing 120V circuits around so all your audio equipment branch circuits are, or, are not fed from tandem breakers.
(Note, best practices for multiple branch circuits feeding audio equipment, that are connected by wire interconnects, all branch circuits should be fed from the same Line, leg, in the panel. All from Line 1 or all from Line 2. NOT from both...)
(Note the electrical panel must be approved for use of a tandem breaker. Most are unless it is really old. Your electrician will know. Breaker type approved are listed some where on the panel enclosure.)
Second option is to add a small sub panel next, near, to the existing main electrical panel. Again the electrician will determine the best installation/wiring method for the sub panel location. If the main panel is exposed in a mechanical room in a basement cheapest sub panel install is next to the main electrical panel.
Cheapest method is to install tandem breakers in the existing electrical panel.
@jea48 Thank you for your thoughts. You are correct, I had assumed that the right side was one leg, and left the other. What you said makes sense. However, I had read in other threads on power that one should avoid installing your dedicated audio circuit on a leg with major appliances. Given what you said, I guess that is not possible.
I do have some tandem breakers installed as the breaker box was full when my house was built with 30 slots. The 5 tandem breakers have since been added (gazebo, additional outdoor & garage outlets, etc).
I don’t know if there is a limit on tandem’s or a limit on total circuits, but was told by a qualified electrician (maybe lying), that I was close to or out of additions. The main panel is in the garage.
As the SME, which do you recommend first, wiring or conditioner? Thanks!
Sounds like you might be thinking all the breakers on the left side of the electrical panel are on one leg, and all the breakers on the right side of the panel are on the other leg. That is not the case... The breakers on each side alternate from Line 1 leg and Line 2 leg down both sides of the panel. The wider breakers, two breakers with a single common handle, are for 240V loads. Single breakers are for 120V loads.
@jea48, I was also thinking that the left side is one leg and that the right side was the other leg. So I guess that this means that the 240A breaker for my drier is using both legs?
And also: the way you explained that is that the top most breaker on the left side and the top most breaker on the right side are both on the same leg? (And from there on all the way down the legs alternate in pairs of breakers.) Am I understanding you correctly?
So I guess that this means that the 240A breaker for my drier is using both legs?
Correct.
Hot L1 leg to Hot L2 leg measures 240V, nominal.
L1 to neutral as well as L2 to neutral measures 120V, nominal.
And also: the way you explained that is that the top most breaker on the left side and the top most breaker on the right side are both on the same leg?
Correct. Both are fed from Line 1 (L1) bus, leg.
(And from there on all the way down the legs alternate in pairs of breakers.)
However, I had read in other threads on power that one should avoid installing your dedicated audio circuit on a leg with major appliances. Given what you said, I guess that is not possible.
I agree that this seems impossible. Your HVAC, electric range, water heater, etc. are all going to be 240V, and therefore on both legs. Small window AC units, hair dryers, toasters, fridge and microwave will be exceptions, but ideally your 120 V AC lines are balanced so that about the same amount of current flows on each leg, so not sure why or how you’d do this.
Ahem... which is why I buck the trend and emphasize voltage regulation over isolation. If you can do both, even better.
It may be worth noting that tightly regulating your AC may be more important to more classic designs.
Gear with linear power supplies with DC rails that are always some proportion of the incoming AC line (i.e. linear amplifiers) will suffer more than more modern power supplies like in your TV or PC.
@erik_squires- Speaking of voltage regulation, any difference between this and this, other than $1,400? It seems 15A should mostly be enough for digital front end, if not all front end components.
If you are gonna spend good money on power conditioning, get a good warranty, then use it to see if you have an improvement in SQ. If not, well, lots of us haven't been able to tell the difference.
There is a very good chance that digital front end equipment already has voltage regulators on the DC power side of the equipment. Good chance that holds true on at least solid state preamps. Maybe even for tube preamps.
As for digital equipment the question is, does the equipment have filtering on the AC mains side that will filter out, prevent, digital hash from traveling back out on the power cord and re-interring on the power cords of an analog preamp and power amp that are plugged into a common power strip.? Even if the amp is plugged directly into the same wall outlet, same branch circuit, as the power strip.
There was a well respected EE, his field was in electronics, that passed many years ago. He frequently posted on the AA forum. I remember he used to say the main reason, (paraphrasing what he said), for multiple dedicated branch circuits is to decouple the power supplies of digital equipment from analog equipment.
That’s why I installed two dedicated 20A branch circuits. One for digital equipment, the other for analog.
Always funny how this place just forces us all to spend 3-5x the cost of what we are thinking. Come in thinking one thing, come out thinking very different.
Asking about a power conditioner, now we are doing a couple dedicated circuits! Think I need to check my HT outlets, have a feeling they are all backstabbed. But did replace a couple outlets with cheap audio grade ones.
My HT system has a Panamax PC, has both voltage and amp gauges on it. Everything is plugged into it. Voltage is usually 122v, depending on what I'm watching, 1.6-3.5a this is a 9.4.2 atmosphere setup, with a 80in TV, and an Xbox.
My 2ch has a Furman 15i, just with voltage gauge. My 2ch voltage goes from 115-124v, usually around 122. I can drop the voltage when listing at high levels. Also found out, that they hooked up the microwave to the living room outlets! When the microwave kicks in, voltage drops to 115v. I know that needs to be fixed. Also thinking abut 2 dedicated outlets.
Here is my point. On the HT side the PC really helps, picture is better, and sound is better when plugged into it. Almost everything there is digital. On the 2ch setup, the sound is cleaner with the PC, have plugged the sub and amp directly into the wall, and the PC. Could not tell a sonic difference. Also can not hear a difference when the microwave is turned on. This tells me the Furman is making a difference for the better. The 2ch setup is vintage, I use the Furman to power it all on/off instead of using the components power switches.
One question I do have abut dedicated circuits, is it worth the extra money to get magnetic breakers over the cheap other ones?
Speaking of voltage regulation, any difference between this and this, other than $1,400? It seems 15A should mostly be enough for digital front end, if not all front end components.
@mitch2
No, these units go on steep discounts routinely. Sometimes on Amazon, sometimes at Pro oriented stores so worth keeping an eye on them. You are correct that 15A (1800 VA) is basically overkill for most home systems.
Furman makes so many models that it’s always good to check the specific feature set with Furman. The basic features you want are:
SMP (series mode protection)
LiFT (linear filtering)
EVS (Extreme Voltage Shutdown)
Usually those three come as a package in their pro or consumer models. These are some consumer oriented features:
Power Factor correction
Balanced outputs
Switched outlets
So for me, SMP, LiFT, EVS and AR are features I really insist on having. The AR (automatic regulation) is the expensive part. Like balanced power, it takes a big internal transformer to work so adds a few hundred dollars to the price tag compared to say the basic Furman strip without.
Furman DOES make an almost pure regulator without SMP, LiFT and EVS but more LEDs (HAH!) but uses old-school surge protection. The only advantage of that unit is that the LEDs constantly show you the incoming voltage.
@jea48- I actually have four 20A dedicated lines powering my system.
One circuit located in a separate room away from my system that is dedicated to my internet modem, router, music server, and associated peripherals
One circuit powering the digital front end equipment in my system room, including peripherals, with all power cords coming from an Isoclean 60A3 II filter
One circuit powering my passive volume control (with display/remote) and SMc Audio unity-gain buffer, each of which have their own outboard linear power supplies plugged into the wall, and
One for my SMc 650wpc monoblock amplifiers also plugged into the wall. I recently replaced the 10A SR input fuses in those amps with copper rods and incorporated in-line magnetic circuit breakers provided by SMc Audio, and as they began using in their equipment shortly after they completed my amps in 2020 (see 2nd and 3rd pics on my system page).
I don't perceive any noise issues whatsoever but was curious about the potential effect of voltage fluctuations, primarily on my front-end equipment.
@erik_squiresGREAT info, as always!!!
The OP mentioned early that he has limited space for additional pieces of kit. I have a similar issue with space. The Furman unit you recommended (one you have always stood by and recommened before to others), is a 'rack mount' style. Since it has "AR" and a sizable transformer, is it an issue to set it ontop of another piece of gear, or under another piece of gear with "normal" feet stand offs? Meaning, 'stacking' but NOT in a rack?
I would imagine no due to magnetic induction issues in either or both? Is that correct? Assuming would need at least 5inches of space top and bottom?
Great thread and info!!!
@amtprod - I would 100% avoid putting it near other linear piece of gear, like an amp or preamp, etc. Keep at least 4" above and below to ensure the magnetic field doesn’t couple to something else, maybe more. It IS safe to put directly on the floor though, maybe with a towel to avoid screws from scratching.
I should also warn you that these sometimes do develop some mechanical hum.
Unfortunate. It appears all the Furman AR’s are designed to be rack mounted with no feet. I thought I could stack the 1800 AR model on my AVR by adding feet (alleviating my space issues), but apparently not.
The 2400 AR (20A) rack ears are not even removable adding 2” further I would have to move my rack from the wall if I put it behind.
Back to the drawing board. Any other brands that have voltage regulation?
@erik_squiresAaahhhh I -KNEW IT-!!! I guess one thing that could also be done is placing it vertically. In my case, I could easily cut a block of wood to 'fill' the rack ear, and simply mount it vertically OUTSIDE the wood low-boy cabinet the equipment is in.(There would be a good 1 foot+ from it, to the nearest piece of gear)
Maybe the OP @signaforcecould do the same? Vertically?
Speaking of voltage regulation, any difference between this and this, other than $1,400? It seems 15A should mostly be enough for digital front end, if not all front end components.
Probably fine. Loads are constant therein not fluctuating like with a power amp playing high dynamic music.
Worth noting. When dealing with the available power from a wall outlet the amount of power available is not necessarily limited to the handle rating of the branch circuit breaker.
Using a 15A circuit, #14 gauge wire, for example... Most people seem to think the breaker will trip when it senses 15 amps of current passing through it. That is a false assumption. UL / NEMA states the breaker must trip at a sustained current of 20.25A, (135% at less than one hour). (15A x 135% = 20.25 amps.) At 30 amperes (200 percent of wire rating) in less than 120 seconds. (15A x 200% = 30 amps).
With quick fluctuating loads, at say 40 amps, the breaker may never trip at all if the load is only for a few hours or so.
So the branch circuit breaker will continue to pass the connected load current well above 15 amps, 1800W for a short sustained duration or quick short fluctuations of current draw. Does VD, Voltage Drop, increase if the branch circuit wiring is #14 gauge and the connected load is over 15 amp? Yes, but how much VD depends on the length of the #14 gauge wire X 2. If the branch circuit wire is #12 gauge the VD is less. #10 gauge even less.
I guess the point I am trying to make is, how well will a 15 amp, 1800W, rated power conditioner available power hold up to the availability power at the wall outlet branch circuit wiring fed from the electrical panel. (Electrical panel... A whole lot of available power.) The wall outlet will delivery well beyond 1800 watts for short intervals of current draw in time. What is the power head room, Service Factor, for short durations of overloading the power conditioner? Maybe 10%? 20%? Maybe 30%? I doubt it.
@amtprod I do have space for that… good thought! Only problem is 4 new power cords required to work. Considering… Thanks
@mbarrett635 I hadn’t considered they had a smaller unit. You are correct. Be a shame to hide it behind my rack, more money than I wanted to spend, but will work. Thanks
Sorry, the issue with the AR models is not just feet or no feet. You really need to allow for space to prevent magnetic coupling. However, I have literally placed these on the floor under my rack before with no issues. Just a small towel to prevent the screws from scratching.
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