Newbie here and electrical idiot. Just moved to a new to us house in Tampa. Before we moved in I had an electrician put in a dedicated line (has it's own breaker switch) which is 10 gauge and two Furutech GTX-D outlets - Rhodium.
When I hooked up the EMI meter in my old house, which didn't have a dedicated line, the reading was usually around 26 or so IIRC. At the new house the outlets are 89 usually and the dedicated line is usually around 82 - so not much help for the cost of the "project" and pretty noisy.
Also, when the ac /hvac is running the meter reads about 100 points higher (!) for both the regular outlets and the dedicated Furutechs. Not good.
Thoughts? Does the dedicated line need it's own breaker box?
I'm also considering a line conditioner but wanted to see what could be done here. Thanks.
@clearthinkerthose pre and phono amps used batteries build into the units or connected to a DC power inlet. That is different from using a cheap AC inverter running from batteries. I could word that differently. A cheap, high powered switch mode power supply.
The conversation has degraded to burning in AC power outlets. I think we have lost the plot on the conversation already. The op has not even verified there is a problem yet, but everyone is rushing to solve it without even knowing if there is a problem, or what it is.
This is what the inside of one of those low cost inverters looks like: http://www.kerrywong.com/2017/10/01/teardown-and-testing-of-an-800w-puresine-inverter/ It is a high frequency switch mode power supply that generates the high voltage (~170V) and then a PWM stage, and then a filter. I don't see a lot of capacitors or filtering on the DC side, so there could be RF coming out. I don't see any FCC on most of these. YMMV
Old school ones with the big huge transformers are probably not as noisy.
I have battery storage device I tried on various components, prefer sound from dedicated lines and transformer based power conditioner. The cheap inverters in these devices is the problem, create their own noise/distortions. I assume those built specifically for audio, like the Stromtank have paid much attention to inverter produced noise.
It is this kind of audiophile sh-t that drives me nuts. All you have to do is buy equipment that has audiophile nut proof power supplies and you do not have to worry about anything except maybe lightening storms.
As for running components with battery supplies. I had NEW (Nirvana Electronic Works) DCA66 class a ss amp way back in 90's, early 2000's, ran off four wheelchair batteries, also have Merlin VSM-MM which has BAM that runs off 4 9V batteries.
Point is technology and implementation has been around for some time. Is it game changer? Based on my experience, no, and wouldn't you think audio manufacturers would have caught onto this if it was. Perhaps more battery storage devices with audiophile quality inverters will come to market in coming years, we'll see.
@theaudioampJust pulling "isn't that against the code" out of thin air isn't helpful for anybody. No, it is not against the code. There are a lot of 240 appliances that need outlets. My home had 3 different 240 outlets for different appliances. There are codes that govern the installation.
But you did hit on one of the big problems with battery systems--the cheap inverters they use. The inverters for most commercial battery systems produce little more than a square wave. They would be a huge step backwards. One reason power regenerators are so expensive, the main reason, is that an inverter that makes a perfect sine wave is very expensive. In fact, I don't know where to buy one except in an audio market power regenerator.
And I see mention of rhodium like it is the latest supermetal. Shows how eager people are to jump on a buzzword. Rhodium is a poor conductor of electricity and has no place in audiophile electronics.
@carsbad. Pure sine wave inverters are not very expensive at all really. I can buy a 1000W unit out of Asia that will produce a fairly accurate sine wave for < $100. They are a dime a dozen on Amazon, Alibaba, etc. At light loads they produce good sine waves. At heavy loads there is some distortion. I even quickly found a DIY link for a 1KW pure sine wave based on old technology. The person built it for <$50 of parts. Probably not much of a market for those big old transformers so they are cheap.
Rhodium is an adequate conductor of electricity for a coating that is 10-20um. You would need very good equipment to measure the resistance of a coating that thin. It is poor because it is very hard.
You can’t install 240 outlets willy nilly. The NEC is written to prevent that. They can only be legally installed to support a device that requires that level of power (not voltage). Those appliances you have have 240V outlets because they require the power that 240V can deliver. It is NEC 210.6 (in complete) that specifies this.
I can provide a bunch move Links on the subject from users that have experience with the Rhodium plated copper contacts on the Furutech GTX NFC outlet.
My bet is the OP’s problem is with the outlets.... 35 hours of burn-in is nothing. Some of the loads that are plugged into one of the outlets may be less than a half of an amp...
Laynes- I fail to understand what in your post is the actual SQ problem?
Your PL has noise suppression circuitry. As mentioned, a good piece of equipment with adequate power supply is really all that's needed. You have the dedicated line, which is a good move.
If you're bent on having more audiophool stuff, there's AC regen or Audioquest Niagqra PLC's. Both get favorable reviews.
PL HP user/PS Audio PP.
The PL is good enough to not need any of that stuff, but alas, this is the hobby.
I will take that bet @jea48, friendly of course. I am sure there are lots of phile reports of Rhodium sounding wonderful. Not hard to find many listening reports from philes are are simply impossible. Has not been a barrier since the start of audio. We are not the most skeptical bunch.
In some cases things like a dedicated line ends up being more of an Insurance policy for best performance than otherwise and one might never accrue any concrete benefit. That appeals to many Audiophile types that are always on the lookout for whatever they think they might be missing.
The benefits of a dedicated line is more and cleaner power and current. How much that actually matters will vary case by case. Depending mainly on relative noise levels otherwise and does that even matter with the specific gear in play and how much current an amp must draw to function optimally. That’s about it.
Insurance policies may be beneficial for peace of mind alone if nothing else. YMMV. Other than additional cost, a dedicated line done well should never hurt.
If you need to add an additional breaker box make sure your dedicated lines (hopefully you will be adding one for your amp) are wired into the same box… otherwise this may cause a ground loop. I’ll leave the details of wiring to others. Only, they make a difference… both.
On the spousal acceptance factor. This is definitely something to consider. Personally I would rather put my system in a small room that I control versus a big communal room. Treatments and careful choices can make a system sound amazing in a large closet… but a really expensive system can end up sounding not so good when placement is compromised and treatments (especially something like lots of windows) cannot be installed.
Did you really think a dedicated line would make an improvement ?
Properly designed electronics INTERNALLY has all the necessary filters & mechanisms necessary to generate a good enough & acceptable DC. Nothing external is needed.
The only requirement from the mains is that it is reasonably sinusoidal so the transformers work properly, and the voltage stays within a reasonable range.
Unless you are driving synchronous motors, even the frequency deviation does not matter so much, as long as the frequency does not drop below a number which causes the transformers to heat up. Besides, not even the WORST mains supply in any country does not have fluctuating frequency to such a degree.
Inverter systems sound as different as anything.....here is one that will blow your mind.......incredible sound....everything you do makes a difference...even how an inverter is mounted.
On come on @westcoastaudiophile, you don’t need and unlimited budget. The average audiophile product includes more than enough budget to implement an adequate power supply. The issues are often not the power supply at all or just require good design practices, not even a lot of cost.
How are you finding those Ampere Time batteries @ricevs?? Saw them on Amazon. They seemed at the time a bit lower cost than others but not much difference between the brands. I have built up my own 24V batteries for my big boat using 200aH LiFeP04 3.2V cells, and an off the shelf BMS. Too many BMS failures. I wanted something that in a pinch I could bypass in and keep operating. Been looking for some 100Ah or 200Ah for the fishing boat.
RE: outlet burn-in. Interesting and I had no idea. As a newbie I think burn in is the most annoying thing about this hobby (wife issues aside). I'll just leave them in because ......although I have about 180 hours on my Sapphire M3s and about 90 hours on the tweeters (had to replace those after too much volume) I'm reading again and again on Audio Circle that they really need 500 hours so I've got a ways to go before those are burned in anyway. That said, if I wanted to speed up the process I could remove one at a time and run my PC through it that I'm on all day at work.
RE: Spouse and dedicated room. We have a 4 BR home, mbr, office, wife's office and yoga room and lastly a spare BR. So they are all taken. My plan is that she usually stops watching tv around 9:30 PM and then spends 2 hours doing chick stuff. If I'm not buried at work I will be able to listen from 9:30-11:30 once (!!!) I sound proof the MBR door some wich of course leads out to the LR/stereo room. I figure once I sound proof the door (as much as possible) i can at least listen at 70 db which is fine. Then when she leaves for doctor or hair or yoga the volume will immediately go up to 85-90 db which is where i usually like it.
RE: the topic of this thread :) , so many opinions (which of course is fine and the reason I created it) that I'll have to spend some more time sorting through them. I do want to look at a few things mentioned and will be discussing with my electrician and will also read ditusa'a link. I been slammed at work today (with a ways to go) so I haven't had a chance to look in the breaker box again but will do so.
RE: impact of SQ - I was just reading my EMI reading for the dedicated outlet vs. the regular outlets and not seeing much of a change. May or may not affect SQ. In an earlier post someone made a good point about this when listening to quieter passages - which I will do once I mount my cart and will put on the Wall or DSOTM or Abaraxis (sp) - there is a long list to choose from.
Thanks again all. I appreciate your time and expertise. As mentioned I will go through all of these a few times – especially this weekend when I have more time for it to sink in and look at the panel/breaker box. Will also discuss w/ my electrician.
I’m not too savy when it comes to electrical knowledge. In my case, I hired a highly regarded electrician who installed multiple 20 amp dedicated lines to my music room. He did an extensive rebuild/update of my box so everything is up to code. Everything has worked flawlessly since the work was complete. He installed the lines on a separate leg in my original breaker box. I did it mostly for my power amp which the manufacturer recommends be run on a dedicated 20 amp line.
It made a dramatic difference in the performance of my system. Due to my lack of knowledge, I hired an electrician with a stellar reputation in hopes I wouldn’t be taken advantage of…it wasn’t cheap (at all) but system performance really improved.
i plan to retire and sell my house in the next 5 years. I wonder if I’d have been better off buying a power regenerator that I could take with me when its time for me to go…
Installing dedicated lines should not be astronomically expensive. Twenty years ago… I think one cost me $300… last year $1,500 (it was a hard location to get to). The $1,500 was well worth it. It doesn’t take any sophisticated electrician… in fact, most of them think you are crazy. You just tell them what you want. For me, five years would be well worth the sound quality improvement I received.
An audio friend of mine really got into it with high end audio wiring and lots of extras. I think he thought it worth while. But you get a lot for just the basics. 10 gauge Romex.
In my case (2022) it was $1500 for the 4 lines and about the same to upgrade/rebuild the box. I also had him inspect my ground rod. The connection to the box was badly decayed (he showed me that) so the ground was not even connected. This apparently made my whole house surge protector worthless. I had him drive a new ground rod and redo the connection for $750. Around $4K all in…It took the electrician and his assistant two full days to complete the job.
He openly said I was insane. I showed him the prices of aftermarket power cables…he said he was starting a new business LOL. We enjoyed a bottle of bourbon and a listening session the last evening. He had no idea what a quality home audio system could do.
Like almost all threads here, this one has some good information and a lot of misinformation. I have to feel sorry for the layperson trying to figure it out.
I have a few questions before you call the electrician out to your home and start paying him his hourly rate. Time = money...
1) What year was the house built?
2) Has the electrical service ever been updated?
3) Is the power lines feeding the house ran overhead or buried underground in the earth?
4) How big, amps, is the electrical service? (Look at the main breaker there will be a number usually found on the breaker handle. Typically 100 or 200.)
5) What brand is the electrical panel? Example, Square D, Siemens, GE, ITE, ect.
6) Where is the main electrical panel located? Outdoors on the house next to the electric meter? In an attached garage? Inside the house? Is the main breaker located in the main electrical panel or outdoors next to the electric meter?
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
As for the layout of the branch circuit breakers in an electrical panel:
Line 1 and Line 2 alternate with one another down each side of the electrical panel.
Odd breaker numbers are on the left side. Even breaker numbers on the right side. If you look closely at the breakers metal panel dead front you should see the numbers. Usually stamped into the metal. If you can’t see them here is how the breakers are numbered. (Note: For standard sized 1" single pole breakers. A 2 pole breaker takes up two 1" spaces.)
L1 = Line 1. (Leg, Bus)
L2 = Line 2. (Leg, Bus)
brk = breaker. (Or unused breaker space.)
L1 >> brk #1 ...... brk #2
L2 >> brk #3 ....... brk #4
L1 >> brk #5 ....... brk #6
L2 >> brk #7 ....... brk #8
L1 >> brk #9 ....... brk #10
L2 >> brk #11 ..... brk #12
L1 >> brk #13 .... brk #14
And so on down each side of the panel.
(Note a 2 pole breaker connects to both L1 and L2... 240V potential...
Note the chart on page 35. Aluminum armored MC measured the second best. Number one being the best where the hot and neutral conductors are twisted together the entire length of the branch circuit. The EGC, (Equipment Grounding Conductor), is ran along side the twisted pair.
The type of branch circuit wiring can have an impact on the sound quality of an audio system. Also the installation methods used installing the branch circuit wiring can have an impact on the SQ.
Before we moved in I had an electrician put in a dedicated line (has it’s own breaker switch) which is 10 gauge
What type of #10awg branch circuit wiring was installed? NM, (Romex)? MC, Metal Clad) armored cable? Other?
A good presentation @jea48but not without questionable recommendations and some questionable interpretations of how things work, but still vastly better and debunking so much of what gets posted.
When I had a dedicated line installed, my system improved slowly over the first 30 days or so of breakin. After that . . . sweet tunes whatever the cause.
@theaudioampYou're new here. What an insulting statement.
@jea48 's knowledge and advice is above reproach. Jim's interest and expertise has helped solve the issues of many members over the years. In order to troubleshoot, one must ask questions.
I wholeheartedly agree that the receptacles have not had breakin time. A Rhodium duplex takes 200 to 400hrs. of run-in time. Manufacturers such as Furutech state this requirement.
@theaudioampYou’re new here. What an insulting statement.
And you don’t read well. My comment was not to the person who posted the link, obviously, but to the person who put on the non-peer reviewed presentation to the AES that was linked. There are absolutely some questionable things in that presentation that would not stand up to scrutiny. Questioning the accuracy of what someone links to is not rude, and being here for a long time does not make your posts any more accurate than anyone else and immune to criticism. This is not a professional forum where the accuracy of someone’s posts are validated by equally qualified people.
but to the person who put on the non-peer reviewed presentation to the AES that was linked. There are absolutely some questionable things in that presentation that would not stand up to scrutiny.
At higher frequencies, where inductance dominates, using thicker wire has virtually noeffect on impedance. At 1 MHz, replacing the #12 wire with a ½” solid copper rod has little effect (as noted in the plot).
Misleading and erroneous in the framework of the discussion. For a single wire, in free space, this is true. However, we don't use wires in free space, we use conductors. For a given insulation thickness, increasing wire diameter reduces inductance by increasing area between the two wires. For instance, 2mm wire, with 1mm insulation (4mm on centers) would have about 50uH/meter inductance. If I increase the diameter to 10mm, but keep the same insulation thickness, the inductance
Conduit Transformer (Voltage is directly proportional to load current, wire length, and rate of change in current or ∆I/∆t)
For a transformer company, I would have hoped they understood transformers better. If you look at their drawing, the output of the transformer is 1.5K in series into a volt-meter, with a 2.2nF load. Essentially that is an open circuit. If it is a transformer, the open loop output voltage of a transformer is independent of the frequency. i.e. in their experiment, the output voltage should not have changed with frequency. If they had shorted the output (very low resistance), then the output voltage would be affected by frequency. They didn't, so their experimental results do not match their proposed transformer model.
What would match their model? -- parasitic capacitance. I expect there are aspects of both. Either way, their experiment is flawed which means any conclusions are suspect.
They assign the source of all noise to this "conduit transformer" and discuss lamp dimmers. The also say leakage current are very small as a partial justification of this. Use a 2.2nF capacitor as an example
At 60Hz, impedance = 1.2M ohm
at 70KHz, impedance = 1000 ohms
When you swing 120V (or 220) with 1000 ohms impedance, you can no longer claim low leakage current. Parasitic capacitance provides a nice path for noise in the line/neutral to get into the ground.
As a point of discussion, a dimmer can also generate audible noise in an audio device with no ground connection.
90 degree conduction angle for a dimmer is 50% voltage, not 50% brightness. I think it is closer to 10%. Yes, I am being intentionally pedantic.
For most cord connected equipment, 2 or 3 prong, the leakage limit is 0.5mA and 0.75mA, but again, that is pedantic to the discussion. I am just illustrating a trend.
Even installing a “cheater” (3-to-2 prong adapter) or cutting off a safety ground pin from one of the power cords would still leave as much as 3.5 mA flowing in the interface cable ... that’s 10 times the current of the previous 2-prong example, so a serious noise problem would still exist ... as well as a much more serious safety hazard!
Both unlikely to due real limits on leakage in 3 prong audio equipment, and practically wrong as well. How many ground loops have been eliminated by clipping a ground pin? The reason is the configuration of EMI filter capacitors and typical parasitics causing case ground to now be equipotential between line/neutral and little current to flow through the capacitors into chassis ground. However, don't disconnect the safety ground. It is a bad idea.
Zcm tolerance of real-world drivers typically determined by ± 5%
series resistors and ± 20% (or worse) coupling capacitors
Appropriate for this point is that the tolerance of the coupling capacitors is only important w.r.t. the impedance at the frequency of interest. i.e. in audio, at 60Hz, we would typically ensure the capacitance is large enough, so that the impedance is low enough that tolerance is not a significant factor. 20% of 0 is still 0 (exaggerating obviously).
Strange that cable manufacturers still don’t “get it” ... they seem to think “floobydust” is more important.
I don't have any issue with this. I just think it is funny. I like them even if I disagree with some of what they say. I think the discussion on cables is really good. I think most cable vendors could learn something from it.
Keep cables short and do not coil the excess
The reason for not coiling is due to coupling of external magnetic fields into the cable. While obviously this is 100% true for a single wire, a coiled cable is a common mode inductor so will reject most external magnetic fields.
I will give the benefit of the doubt for any cable with a double terminated shield as that would be worse coiled.
Page 150
This absolutely could provide benefit. It all comes down to implementation. If a short RCA is used between the single ended equipment and the transformer, then effectively there is no ground voltage on the single ended side to cause a ground loop noise issue even if high current flows in the ground.
Page 202
While technically true, in most equipment, the capacitors are not parasitic but intentional for emi and noise.
Page 211
Accuses others of fear mongering while doing some himself. Any half decent designed equipment has ESD and similar protection on I/O lines. Since the I/O lines are high impedance w.r.t. ground, the protection circuitry limits the excursion for the required amount of time.
Page 212
Series suppressors do dump current into the safety ground, they just do not dump as much. Simple logic should reveal that. If the inductor is connected to an open circuit, the full voltage is transmitted. Hence there must be a low impedance path for the current.
What fresh hell is this?
Have you been here before?
How many times?
Only here since yesterday and 33 posts.
A lot of similarities with past and banned member(s).
Just saying....
Hi cdc, I discussed this some in this post: "Theaudioamp – good questions. I have done very little listening so far – mostly because of the wife-factor but also time – I haven’t had time to set up my cart yet so only have CDs. I have a Ruby K1 which I read is a good cd player but my vinyl blows away 90% of my CDs. I did just listen to Murder by Numbers (just found out this song was never released on vinyl) fairly loud so I could pay attention. I should have picked a different song or CD rather because there aren’t any extended quiet sections (silent passages). I’ll have to report back after I mount and align my cart and then will put on the Wall which has lots of quiet time. Right now I’m prepping the room as much as possible…doing what I can."
I just ordered some Focal Stellias which will be here later next week and hopefully I will have time to mount my cart and do some serious listening.
On that note, I haven't had much time to investigate some of the great suggestions in this thread but wanted to give this info which is my panel box. I was going to uplaod a pic but don't see how that is possible here w/o a link.
Anyway here is the list of stuff on the right side:
39. Stereo
37. Garage USBs (never use these)
33 & 31, Mini split (garage a/c which I only run when I'm in the garage)
29 clothes washer
27, mbr something or other
25 mbr powder room
23 mbr, something or other
21 DR and LR
19 garage door openers
17 master bath and study
15 utility room and spare brs 2 & 3
13, outlets for garage, outdoor and pool
11 heat
9 heat
7 range
5 range
3 air
1 I think it says "conditioner Leed 20-A"
I'm not sure why heat has 2 switches and air has 1. We are in Tampa and have a single hvac unit. As mentioned earier the EMI reader jumps 100 points when the a/c is running so I'm thinking to maybe move the stereo switch to the other side (?). The other side has the washer and dryer but those can be stopped while listening (a/c cannot down here). Also the hot water heater is on the otehr side. Maybe I should move some of these aroudn so the bigger draws are on one side and the stereo switch is on the side of the smaller draws?
The electrian will be here on Weds for other stuff but by then I will have a list of questions for him from the posts here and hopefully we can come up with somehing.
But if not - as pointed out - an EMI reading is apparently worthless and I may not even notice the sound. We've only been here 3 weeks and still unpacking so have had little free time - but that should change some in the next few weeks when all these other projects and unpacking. is finsihed.
The heater (or furnace) requires a dual-core breaker when current is 30A or higher. It takes up two breaker positions and uses both Legs of the electrical service.
15 & 20V standard breakers are used in lower current situations.
You listed one Leg in your panel, can you list the other phase?
Electricians when installing a panel try to even the load on each Leg. IOW, They’re trying to achieve close to equal current-draw on each leg. When installing an audio system on one leg, some sacrifices have to be made, such as moving a high amperage appliance which may cause noise to the opposite leg as the audio circuit.
As for the layout of the branch circuit breakers in an electrical panel:
Line 1 and Line 2 alternate with one another down each side of the electrical panel.
Odd breaker numbers are on the left side. Even breaker numbers on the right side. If you look closely at the breakers metal panel dead front you should see the numbers. Usually stamped into the metal. If you can’t see them here is how the breakers are numbered. (Note: For standard sized 1" single pole breakers. A 2 pole breaker takes up two 1" spaces.)
L1 = Line 1. (Leg, Bus)
L2 = Line 2. (Leg, Bus)
brk = breaker. (Or unused breaker space.)
L1 >> brk #1 ...... brk #2
L2 >> brk #3 ....... brk #4
L1 >> brk #5 ....... brk #6
L2 >> brk #7 ....... brk #8
L1 >> brk #9 ....... brk #10
L2 >> brk #11 ..... brk #12
L1 >> brk #13 .... brk #14
And so on down each side of the panel.
Note breaker space #39 and breaker space #40 share the same breaker connecting bus tie. Both 39 and 40 are connected to Line 2 bus, Leg.
I agree with giving the system more time. I had a new sub panel, wiring etc installed in my basement while we were in the process of finishing it. I took the system I had been listening to for months and moved it into the basement and it sounded horrible. After more play time the system settled in a sounded good again. Wire break in may not make sense on paper but my experience says it is real. Good luck!
I ran 3 dedicated lines a few years ago. They are probably 12 g. I haven't patched the drywall yet as I have had a lingering doubt I did it right. My electrician did not have heavier wire and he struggled to pass the 12 gage in the walls. I think I need to call him back out to replace add 2 more lines for each of my mono amps and maybe my tube pre amp.
I have found separating the digital and analog front end gear beneficial. I have 2 mono amps on the 3rd line.
I use a PS power regenerator on the digital, a Shunyata Denali on the analog and the amps are plugged into a Furutech outlet.
I have been eyeing the PSM156, I was unaware of the trial. Its hard to know what is snake oil and what works. I tried an Akiko Corelli and it worked so well I bought 2 more. I have one on each front end line and the third on the outlet in the PS Audio P10 that the music server uses. My Linn LP12 has such a noisy power supply I had to take it off the dedicated lines and Shunyata conditioner. The same for the SMPS for a pair of REF longbows. The SMPS's totally polluted the PS Audio P10. They are now polluting the non dedicated house lines.
I have a dozen PS Audio Noise Harvesters. Those little things actually help. I have them on the shared outlets in the conditioner and regenerator.
If you say you have a dedicated line and are getting noise from the AC then you dont have a true dedicated line. A true dedicated has to be brought in independent from the street. At the very least you are sharing a ground on your dedicated line.
I have found separating the digital and analog front end gear beneficial.
I agree 100%! I have four dedicated lines, one for each monoblock amp, one for analog and one for digital. All four dedicated lines use BX/AC cable. I prefer the BX with metal boxes for better shielding. See reference below:
If you say you have a dedicated line and are getting noise from the AC then you dont have a true dedicated line. A true dedicated has to be brought in independent from the street. At the very least you are sharing a ground on your dedicated line.
That’s true, but it has to meet code. It would be so nice to have an extra drop from the power company.
I suggest you spend another several million and put up your own mini nuclear reactor for YOUR house. That way, you can run a single line for EACH outlet--if you still use outlets...I would connect DIRECTLY to the reactor, myself, but that's just me--and that way you will have NO NOISE and be sitting center front at every mix-down studio where your recordings are "created" from whatever the musicians play that day from wherever they are playing.
Oh, spend another million or so on patch cords. They really matter as well.
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