New Dedicated Line - Almost No improvement


Hello,

Newbie here and electrical idiot. Just moved to a new to us house in Tampa. Before we moved in I had an electrician put in a dedicated line (has it's own breaker switch) which is 10 gauge and two Furutech GTX-D outlets - Rhodium.

When I hooked up the EMI meter in my old house, which didn't have a dedicated line, the reading was usually around 26 or so IIRC. At the new house the outlets are 89 usually and the dedicated line is usually around 82 - so not much help for the cost of the "project" and pretty noisy.

Also, when the ac /hvac is running the meter reads about 100 points higher (!) for both the regular outlets and the dedicated Furutechs. Not good.

Thoughts? Does the dedicated line need it's own breaker box? 

I'm also considering a line conditioner but wanted to see what could be done here. Thanks.

laynes

Showing 6 responses by carlsbad

Like almost all threads here, this one has some good information and a lot of misinformation.  I have to feel sorry for the layperson trying to figure it out.  

There are power requirement "believers" and power requirement skeptics.  I'm on the side of the believers with the following caveats:

1.  You don't need an expensive power cable, just a heavy one.

2.  Many expensive power cables fail at condition1 above.

So I see why some of the skeptics treat expensive cables as snake oil.  On the other hand, some of the skeptics think you can size a power cord based on an amps normal current draw  This ignores dynamics and will generally result in disappointing results.

I recently bought a wonderful amp on the used market that there is a 2 year wait for new.  I was very happy to get it.  The selling included the aftermarket power cord that he had bought to use with it.  I looked it up.  It cost $300 and was 18 gauge.  I wouldn't even use that cord on a 15w streamer.  No wonder he sold the amp.

I googled the power cord that the OP uses and found paragraph after paragraph of flowery prose about it but never mentioned was the gauge of the wire.  Would you buy an amp that had 3 pages of description but wouldn't tell you how many watts per channel?

So my advice is to always use a heavy power cord (I use 10 awg, because they are easy to get).  Whether you use a $50 generic one or a $2000 high end one is up to you but make sure it is at least 12, preferably 10, awg.

Jerry

@clearthinker You must be big on gedanken experiments--consistent with your name.   I'm pretty sure you haven't implemented what you suggest.  If you have, I'd love to hear how you solved the many problems you would have to overcome.  --Jerry

 

EMI meter is useless.

dedicated line ensures your amp has plenty of power and no other equipment on the line challenging the system.  Means that 24/7 you have the power your amp needs.  Maybe at low demand times with nothing else running, the old line was the same or similar.

I installed a new 10 awg line to my system.  I didn't have an obvious problem but now I know I don't have a probelm.  Did it myself for a couple hundred $.

Adding a power condidtioner will generally do more harm than good.

Adding a regenerator will likely be a positive, but will not fix inadequate power.

symptoms of inadequate power supply are weak dynamics and bass.  

You should feel good in knowing that whatever problems your system may have, power isn't one of them.

And get rid of that meter.  ASR has made people thiink that if they can measure a parameter, it must be the right parameter to measure.

Jerry

I see people recommending adding 2 dedicated lines, one for amp and one for evrything else. If you do that, there is one more thing you can do that gives you opportunity. 

Your home has 2 legs of 120V power, generally one red and one black.  (Sometimes electricians aren't careful and they can get mixed up, since they are identical wrt 120V power).   But if you run one leg off of red and one off black, then you have 240V between them for running a european amp.  the great thing about that is that at 240V, the current is half that it would be at 120V for the same power.  Thus your wire is effectively larger.

What I did was just run 240V power to my audio wall.  I pulled 120V off the red leg for one set of 3 hospital grade outlets and 120V off the black leg for the other set of outlets.  I took the red and black to make a 240V outlet for my european amp (an Ayon).  

Those of you who understand electrical  (not many on this forum) may be asking yourself what about the neutral?  Indeed the neutral wire is shared between both legs but I don't find that to be a problem.  If the shared neutral concerns you then run 10-4 plus g instead of 10-3 and you can have seperate neutrals.

Jerry

@theaudioamp Just pulling "isn't that against the code" out of thin air isn't helpful for anybody.  No, it is not against the code. There are a lot of 240 appliances that need outlets.  My home had 3 different 240 outlets for different appliances.  There are codes that govern the installation.

But you did hit on one of the big problems with battery systems--the cheap inverters they use.  The inverters for most commercial battery systems produce little more than a square wave.  They would be a huge step backwards.   One reason power regenerators are so expensive, the main reason, is that an inverter that makes a perfect sine wave is very expensive.  In fact, I don't know where to buy one except in an audio market power regenerator.

And I see mention of rhodium like it is the latest supermetal.  Shows how eager people are to jump on a buzzword.  Rhodium is a poor conductor of electricity and has no place in audiophile electronics.