New Dedicated Line - Almost No improvement


Hello,

Newbie here and electrical idiot. Just moved to a new to us house in Tampa. Before we moved in I had an electrician put in a dedicated line (has it's own breaker switch) which is 10 gauge and two Furutech GTX-D outlets - Rhodium.

When I hooked up the EMI meter in my old house, which didn't have a dedicated line, the reading was usually around 26 or so IIRC. At the new house the outlets are 89 usually and the dedicated line is usually around 82 - so not much help for the cost of the "project" and pretty noisy.

Also, when the ac /hvac is running the meter reads about 100 points higher (!) for both the regular outlets and the dedicated Furutechs. Not good.

Thoughts? Does the dedicated line need it's own breaker box? 

I'm also considering a line conditioner but wanted to see what could be done here. Thanks.

laynes

Showing 11 responses by lowrider57

questionable interpretations of how things work

@theaudioamp You're new here. What an insulting statement.

@jea48 's knowledge and advice is above reproach. Jim's interest and expertise has helped solve the issues of many members over the years. In order to troubleshoot, one must ask questions.

I wholeheartedly agree that the receptacles have not had breakin time. A Rhodium duplex takes 200 to 400hrs. of run-in time. Manufacturers such as Furutech state this requirement.

@laynes 

The heater (or furnace) requires a dual-core breaker when current is 30A or higher. It takes up two breaker positions and uses both Legs of the electrical service.

15 & 20V standard breakers are used in lower current situations.

You listed one Leg in your panel, can you list the other phase?

need to look at your panel, you want if possible to have the dedicated line on the opposite LEG of the panel from motors; AC, Freezer, Fridge…. Start there….

Tomic is correct. Before putting the blame on the power grid, separate the noise producing appliances and devices in your home. Opposite Leg of your audio and placement of those breakers away from audio, ie, audio on top of panel, A/C, fridge at bottom of panel on opposite Leg. This may help.

 

The problem is dedicated lines will never be free of noise, all electricals share a common ground and neutral.

I agree with @ghdprentice including the adding of another line (same length cable as the others).

Regarding power conditioners, I have (2) 20A dedicated lines and use power conditioning to lower the noise-floor. I live in an old neighborhood in Philly. EquiCore + DeepCore have been very effective. A very important point about power conditioners is not to use them for your amp, unless specifically designed for high-current components. The sonics of an amp can be affected. Only my preamp and sources are plugged into mine.

When I mentioned audio, he laughed and said to keep my money.  If you aren’t worried about voltage drop when the ac or refrigerator cycles, your at the mercy of the power grid.

Get a new electrician. As stated in this thread, there's more to it than the power grid. I guess he thinks it's ok to daisy-chain your audio system on the A/C and refrigerator line.

@laynes 

Just to review; you have one dedicated 20A line to the service panel. The audio system used the last available breaker (if it's one line, the electrician would have used a standard breaker). Look at the panel, are there any breakers for high-current appliances close to the audio breaker? And are there any on the same Leg (phase) as your audio? Phase will usually be indicated as A or B. Breakers 1,3,5 would be phase A. Breakers 2,4,6 are phase B (in most situations).

Heavy-duty appliances such as A/C, fridge, washer will introduce noise back onto the mains.

 

 

Electricians when installing a panel try to even the load on each Leg. IOW, They’re trying to achieve close to equal current-draw on each leg. When installing an audio system on one leg, some sacrifices have to be made, such as moving a high amperage appliance which may cause noise to the opposite leg as the audio circuit.

@jea48 

Yes, that's how my panel looks.

L1 >> brk #1 ...... brk #2

L2 >> brk #3 ....... brk #4

L1 >> brk #5 ....... brk #6

L2 >> brk #7 ....... brk #8

L1 >> brk #9 ....... brk #10

L2 >> brk #11 ..... brk #12

L1 >> brk #13 .... brk #14

And so on down each side of the panel.

If I provided misleading information, I apologize, it was very late. 

 I didn't realise breaker space #39 and breaker space #40 share the same breaker connecting bus tie. Thanks for the correction.

Jim

If you say you have a dedicated line and are getting noise from the AC then you dont have a true dedicated line. A true dedicated has to be brought in independent from the street. At the very least you are sharing a ground on your dedicated line.

That’s true, but it has to meet code. It would be so nice to have an extra drop from the power company.

@papafrgog

don’t underestimate the value a good ground. BIG FACTOR.

Can you elaborate on the grounding in your system? Was the electrician experienced with installing dedicated lines for an audio system?