How much overhang is ok between a speaker base and the stand top plate?
This thread extends another I posted about "mass loading" stands. As I mentioned in those threads, I’m choosing speaker stands for my Salk SS 6M speakers. They measure:
20” H x 9 1/8” W x 14 5/16” D
There are many options for speakers stands, but the choice is complicated by the size of the speaker’s width and depth.
Many stands feature a top plate that is 6" x 6" or 6" x 8" or 7" x 7" etc.
On *any* of these top plates, my speaker would hang off the sides and front/back by at at least 2-3 inches.
For example, I’m considering Target stands but am not sure if it’s worth spending good $$ on a stand if there is this amount of overhang.
Seeking opinions about the "overhang" issue between speaker base and stand top plate. How important is this for the sound? How much overhang is too much?
And if it was necessary to have a top plate made locally to go along with the stand, would I just affix it myself? Have it welded on? I didn’t want this to get so complicated.
Oh, and in my experience, once you have a solid stand, more gains can be had with some iso acoustics orea’s than from a sturdy $200 stand vs a sturdy $600 stand.
The little cups and bearings work well to on a budget if you don’t do isoacoustics.
Thanks for the additonal suggestions. Didn't know that about blue tack. Worrisome. I cannot imagine drilling holes in these speakers. The pad idea is a nice one, too.
good point you make on what is used to adhere speakers to the stands
often blu tack in used, but left in place for long time, it can actually pull off the veneer off the speaker bottom - noooo bueno!!!! so if you use blu tack use just a tiny pellet
I use Audioquest Sorbothane mats to adhere my 1 cu. ft. speakers to Target HR50 stands (with stance plates). These seem to serve well as vibration blockers, metal ringing dampers, and hold the speakers firmly from falling if accidentally bumped. They also don't materially change the height of the speaker, and best of all...don't cost much ($49.00 @ AA). On the overhang question, don't be overly concerned as long as you have a rigid stand and a secure attachment to the speaker, either by adhesive or by screwing up through from the bottom. Don't want to mar the veneer on the bottom...try the sorbothane...
Personally I prefer an ample amount of overhang but there can't be too much. I believe in a good balance between overhang and firmness. Good support is crucial!
Getting technical, you may want to read a female treatise on the subject as your question does involve a "Parallelogram of forces". However, you’d have to determine the centre of gravity of your particular speakers and THAT, when standing on the supports FIRST!
Rule of thumb: if the speaker falls off the stand, you have too much overhang. Also would always recommend heavy metal stand over wood, despite the aesthetic appeal of wood.
Right. Then as long as the speaker is secure and not easily tipped you should be fine. Unless you have considerations like cats that like to jump up there. I don't think the overhang of the speaker will affect sound quality in any way.
I’d go Timber Nation, custom built to your exact dimensions, look, and wood. Then I’d use iso acoustic orea under the speakers.
I’ve been talking about just building some walnut speaker stands and when I priced the wood needed for what I want (2” top and bottom plates, with 4 2”x2” poles) today, it will be close to $200 for me to do that. Walnut is expensive but beautiful.
Anyhow, I digress. Timber Nation or Skylan would be my choice
Buy whatever you like for stands regardless of plate size. Go to a welder and have him fabricate a base plate to your dimensions Then powder coat it in whatever color you like, I'm a big fan of medium Gloss Black. Shocking! But occasionally I like Chartreuse!!
@facten Thanks. That's the kind of experience I was hoping for. I do like the idea of customizing the top plate, though I see it's not necessary.
@nonoise Do you assemble the stands? If I decide to get different speakers down the road, would these come apart? No need to plan for that, but the Skylan and Target stands come apart.
I have JM Reynaud Offrand Supreme V2s in my 2nd system. They are 17H x 17L x 10 W and hand 4 3/4 inches off the back & front and 1 1/2 inches off the sides of the accompanying stands. Zero sonic issues
Maple is a very dense wood and there's no need or way to fill them to deaden them even more, like you have to do with hollow metal stands. Any fill you use in those stands will "sound" different than each other.
What I did with my Timbernation stands was to use some Les Davis constrained layer damping pads to rest the speakers on and they made a slight improvement. I would imagine using something like Isoacoustic Gaia footers would work even better.
skylan stands are solid and stable and come with excellent iso bumpers for the top plate. you can also fill the columns (i used cat litter with excellent results). much preferred to the mass market metal stands. a couple inches of overhang of the speaker panels is not an issue. just make sure they are centered and the center of gravity of the speaker is over the top plate- left to right centering is fine but usually the center of gravity of a speaker is more forward because of the mass of the woofer magnet. in other words it’s better to have a little more overhang in the back than the front for front / back stability and resistance to toppling.
Agreed! -- I might be obsessing, a little, but because I'm at the point of purchase, I wanted to check. And my Salks are really unusually big compared to most speakers. Far fewer 20" stand options.
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