How much overhang is ok between a speaker base and the stand top plate?
This thread extends another I posted about "mass loading" stands.
As I mentioned in those threads, I’m choosing speaker stands for my Salk SS 6M speakers. They measure:
20” H x 9 1/8” W x 14 5/16” D
There are many options for speakers stands, but the choice is complicated by the size of the speaker’s width and depth.
Many stands feature a top plate that is 6" x 6" or 6" x 8" or 7" x 7" etc.
On *any* of these top plates, my speaker would hang off the sides and front/back by at at least 2-3 inches.
For example, I’m considering Target stands but am not sure if it’s worth spending good $$ on a stand if there is this amount of overhang.
Seeking opinions about the "overhang" issue between speaker base and stand top plate. How important is this for the sound? How much overhang is too much?
And if it was necessary to have a top plate made locally to go along with the stand, would I just affix it myself? Have it welded on? I didn’t want this to get so complicated.
Thanks for your opinions.
As I mentioned in those threads, I’m choosing speaker stands for my Salk SS 6M speakers. They measure:
20” H x 9 1/8” W x 14 5/16” D
There are many options for speakers stands, but the choice is complicated by the size of the speaker’s width and depth.
Many stands feature a top plate that is 6" x 6" or 6" x 8" or 7" x 7" etc.
On *any* of these top plates, my speaker would hang off the sides and front/back by at at least 2-3 inches.
For example, I’m considering Target stands but am not sure if it’s worth spending good $$ on a stand if there is this amount of overhang.
Seeking opinions about the "overhang" issue between speaker base and stand top plate. How important is this for the sound? How much overhang is too much?
And if it was necessary to have a top plate made locally to go along with the stand, would I just affix it myself? Have it welded on? I didn’t want this to get so complicated.
Thanks for your opinions.
44 responses Add your response
skylan stands are solid and stable and come with excellent iso bumpers for the top plate. you can also fill the columns (i used cat litter with excellent results). much preferred to the mass market metal stands. a couple inches of overhang of the speaker panels is not an issue. just make sure they are centered and the center of gravity of the speaker is over the top plate- left to right centering is fine but usually the center of gravity of a speaker is more forward because of the mass of the woofer magnet. in other words it’s better to have a little more overhang in the back than the front for front / back stability and resistance to toppling. |
Maple is a very dense wood and there's no need or way to fill them to deaden them even more, like you have to do with hollow metal stands. Any fill you use in those stands will "sound" different than each other. What I did with my Timbernation stands was to use some Les Davis constrained layer damping pads to rest the speakers on and they made a slight improvement. I would imagine using something like Isoacoustic Gaia footers would work even better. All the best, Nonoise |
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@facten Thanks. That's the kind of experience I was hoping for. I do like the idea of customizing the top plate, though I see it's not necessary. @nonoise Do you assemble the stands? If I decide to get different speakers down the road, would these come apart? No need to plan for that, but the Skylan and Target stands come apart. |
I’d go Timber Nation, custom built to your exact dimensions, look, and wood. Then I’d use iso acoustic orea under the speakers. I’ve been talking about just building some walnut speaker stands and when I priced the wood needed for what I want (2” top and bottom plates, with 4 2”x2” poles) today, it will be close to $200 for me to do that. Walnut is expensive but beautiful. Anyhow, I digress. Timber Nation or Skylan would be my choice |
Getting technical, you may want to read a female treatise on the subject as your question does involve a "Parallelogram of forces". However, you’d have to determine the centre of gravity of your particular speakers and THAT, when standing on the supports FIRST! Then read the answer to your question, see below: https://historyofwomenphilosophers.org/chapter-12-of-composite-motion/ Once done add at least some 20% safety margine for your cat, or other possible interference with gravity. And now have fun. PS how to find the centre of gravity for your setup GOOGLE it, eh. M. 🇿🇦 |
I use Audioquest Sorbothane mats to adhere my 1 cu. ft. speakers to Target HR50 stands (with stance plates). These seem to serve well as vibration blockers, metal ringing dampers, and hold the speakers firmly from falling if accidentally bumped. They also don't materially change the height of the speaker, and best of all...don't cost much ($49.00 @ AA). On the overhang question, don't be overly concerned as long as you have a rigid stand and a secure attachment to the speaker, either by adhesive or by screwing up through from the bottom. Don't want to mar the veneer on the bottom...try the sorbothane... |
These Sanus NF 18B might be a good fit for those speakers! https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/306882-REG/Sanus_NF18B_NF18B_Natural_Foundations_18.html/specs?ap=y&smp=y&msclkid=5e26e2ce01eb1154d3a7bda015a2ac2e |
+1, b_limo At $99, they are unbeatable and perfect for your speakers. https://www.musicdirect.com/vibration-control/IsoAcoustics-Iso-Pucks-Mini |
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