I just watched a few videos about audiophile switches and I don’t understand the need. Cable comes into my home and goes to a modem and then a NetGear Nighthawk router. I can run a CAT6 to my system or use the wireless. If you don’t need more ports, why add something else in the signal path? On one of the videos the guy was even talking about stacking several switches with jumpers and it made the sound even better. He supposedly bought bunch’s of switches at all ranges and really liked a NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS108Ev3) That costs $37 on Amaz.
I'm not sure about the NETGEAR GS108Ev3, but I have the similar TP-LINK TL-SG108. Replacing the nasty wall power pack with a decent, ripple free power supply has made a huge improvement to streaming SQ.
What just happened to my system? I am a newbie to two-channel network switches. I started researching them a month ago. I thought my music sounded fantastic, to begin with. I purchased a TeddyPardo LPS for the very front end of my whole house network to run my Netgear Modem. Then I researched Switches. I have an Araknis 310 and 210 Switch and Router for my whole house but nothing for my two-channel.
I had a long conversation with Rob at Network Acoustics and I decided to buy the Muon Pro Cabling system with filter. He also suggested I try a cheap Dlink switch in between my Cat6 and the server. I could not understand what the switch or the Muon Pro series would do for my system. That is why he suggested I try a cheap switch before investing more money in an expensive switch. I should say that Network Acoustics also has a 30-day money-back guarantee.
I have a relatively high-end system. I could not believe the results I got when I added the $37 switch and the Muon Pro cables. I am befuddled. Wow! My music has never ever sounded better.
I am getting an upgraded Lucas Audio LDMS Music Server early next week. Lucas Domansky is the designer and developer of the LDMS. I currently have one and his Music Server is top-notch. When he sends me the new one, he will include a new network switch that he says will blow my mind. He also wants me to move my TeddyPardo to the switch he is sending me. If my musical experience gets any better I might have to cancel the Aries Cerat equipment that I have on order. I can't wait to get the new server and switch!
A cheap addition would be a PinkFaun Isolator going into the Devialet. You might be pleasantly surprised. Also adding a quality clock to the Etherregen and more importantly a better power supply has major benefits
@ghdprenticeAs a streamer I am using a LUMIN U2 Mini which is tuned with a Farad Super3 (purple fuse & furutech inlet with a AQ Dragon power cord) instead of the standard SMPS. The amplifier / DAC is a Devialet 440 Pro.
Between the LUMIN and the Etherregen there is the new Network Acoustics MUON Pro streaming system which is an additional improvement.
Having a system which is highly resolving I hear every slight change - so very much looking forward what area to address that will gain another uptick in sound quality.
Everyone has differences in their systems and not surprisingly have differing results. I try to normalize my streaming results by comparing it to my other sources. I have four different sources now: Vinyl, CD, FLAC files stored on my music server and Qobuz. I'll stay away from vinyl for now. So on the digital side I am using a CD transport and separate DAC. Then I have a music server with USB to the DAC. I ripped my CD collection into FLAC files stored on my music server. After trying a couple of different USB cables I'd say that my CD to FLAC files are very close in sound to playing my CD's directly. I did some back and forth but mostly I like to listen to a song and then play it again from the other source. I am satisfied that to me the music server and CD transport are very nearly the same. I use ROON but do not use any oversampling or conversion. I have ROON set as basically a pass through with PCM output to my DAC. I tried DSD output with various filters but never sounded as good as direct PCM out.
When I started streaming I was using an ethernet cable from my router directly to the music streamer. Streaming 16/44 was clearly less than CD quality. Then I added a cheap network switch and heard some improvement. Next, I tried FMC's and found fiber was a good upgrade in the sound. The differences between streaming 16/44 and CD was getting smaller. I took out the cheap network switch and found that was an improvement. Next added the Finisar 1475 SMP's (these are the plug-ins found on the FMC boxes) and got a nice improvement. At this point 16/44 streaming was very close to CD and hi-res FLAC files vs streaming hi-res was also very close. Finally, I added the LHY SW-8 network switch after the Fiber and changed to Pangea ethernet cables. I hear no difference now between spinning CDs, FLAC or streaming.
What is the streamer and DAC you are using? The key to this is that performance is highly dependent on how high a quality your streamer is. The better your streamer the less dependent you are on switch’s… also the downstream components matter determining how highly resolving your system is.
For instance, I run my system from a wall wart WiFi extender and a very high end streamer. In this scenario an EtherGen did no improvement. As I have upgraded routers. There has been no sonic difference.
Over the last years also tried Fiber conversation with standard FMC as well as with EtherRegen and very new Sonore OM Deluxe V2 with Finisar SFPs and Farad Super3 with SR Purple fuse, Furutech inlet and a AQ Monsoon power cord, all devices connected to a Audioquest Niagara 5000. All Ethernet cabling is with AQ Diamond.
It definitely reduces noise and makes things more calm, darker/quiet background etc.
Though when using the Network Acoustics Muon Pro things were even more organic and intense / emotional.
Hm, so I guess clocking would be another step up - but instead of getting an external clock for the EtherRegen I would like to get a better switch with a high end clock build in which should be even more effective.
I use a netgear pl1200 lan and a 5 port netgear switch and it sounds great. Go by what you hear, not what people say. If you have a large income and want an expensive network, then ok. It may or may not help the sound. I think your 8 port switch is ok if gigabit. The Electronics of the streamer does the work as long as the bandwidth is good, and you use a decent DAC. Wireless is not as good as wired.
i have tried lan cleansing using network acoustics passive eno, etherregen, and etherregen via optical (via its sfp port into a optical rendu)
in my system, all three sound excellent, give the music a purity and relaxedness otherwise not obtained... but try as i might in comparing, i can not honestly say one of the three sound better than the others, but all were noticeably better than no cleansing at all - maybe it is my home (a recently built one), my service area, my internet vendor's equipment that makes my situation less demanding of these cleansers, i don't know...
i would say (and have said elsewhere) that when using optical modules and fmc’s to cleanse a network feed for audio, the quality of the modules, the fmc’s and power supply are all very important in achieving the desired, positive effect
I keep reading about this fiber conversion step and it has me scratching my head vs the Network Acoustic passive ethernet options. Been there and done that with fiber and the NA passive filter and cables easily surpass the sound quality of the fiber gymnastics options IMHO. I suggest trying the Network Acoustic options as they have a nice trial period. You won’t be disappointed if your system is reasonably resolving. The Muon filter and network cable did wonders for my digital streaming. I have moved up to the Muon Pro and think it is well worth the investment.
Digital is about clocking and power supplies. This is where switches and USB reclockers come in. On Ethernet, the fibre route works up to a point since it doesn‘t suffer from EFI/RFI noise incursion. Alas, the converters themselves aren‘t the best time keeping devices and create distortions of their own. Ethernet can be made to work, but only with a lot of effort. In my case, I employ three switches with associated linear power supplies after the router. The router, which only has the system as client and its own LPS is followed by a simple Netgear router after a 25ft line, this in turn is followed by a LHYaudio Ocxo switch which I can‘t recommend highly enough, which is again followed by an Etherregen, which is clocked by a Antelope 10m clock. Power supplies are LHYaudio and Sean Jacobs for the Etherregen. From the LHYaudio switch onwards cables are 50 cm in length and top quality cat8 throughout. This setup is the result of 3 years experimentation
And btw: on the USB link reclocking and galvanic isolators are required, again with LPS.
So, I was thinking about getting a Denafrips Iris DDC to do the reclocking job, but haven’t made any firm decisions yet.
I bought a Denafrips Hermes a couple of months ago for the similar reason, plus to try converting USB out of my streamer to AES/EBU that I could input into my DAC. The Hermes and Gaia offer more options for clocking, particularly if you have a Denafrips DAC, but my first step was to try it as a converter and hopefully send a lower jitter signal to my DAC.
Regarding the sound, it seems to sound at least as good as running a USB direct from my server to my DAC. This may say more about my server and DAC since they have quite high quality USB interface boards. At the least, I can say putting the Hermes in the chain does no harm sonically but, again, I did not even use the clock function so there is probably considerably more potential to be had.
So you are using some type of Wi-Fi device? That changes the game.
1) Put the fiber section between the router and the Powerline device and see if that sounds different.
2) Try to run an ethernet cable from your router to your music server with and w/o the FMC’s in the chain- if you can to compare the sound.
I bought a long ethernet cable and ran it from my audio grade network switch, which is after the FMC’s, to my TV at the other end of the house. The picture looked so much better that I ended up working 6 hours running that cable through the walls and under the house to the TV. Running an ethernet cable to the 2nd mesh router at that end of the house made the TV picture just about as good but since I had to run one cable to that end of the house it wasn’t much more to run two.
So from the router I’m running a Netgear Powerline. One end is plugged into a UPS and the other is plugged into the same outlet my integrated is plugged in. It’s because of the Powerline device that I went with the Ethernet to fiber setup. Maybe it could be adding noise.
FYI, I can’t hear the difference between WiFi from the Nighthawk router and using the Powerline.
NETGEAR Powerline adapter Kit, 2000 Mbps Wall-plug, 2 Gigabit Ethernet Ports with Passthrough + Extra Outlet (PLP2000-100PAS) https://a.co/d/cKOpK93
All of this started because I read a couple of articles and saw a few videos about cheap switches making a positive impovment in hifi systems. So in answer to your question, I’m exploring possibilities. I had a couple Netgear switch's, but for the life of me I can’t find them, so for $67, I tried another Avenue and bought the Ethernet to fiber boxes.
In the same vein, I have read a few articles and watched a few videos about reclocking. It seems to me that it’s basically the only thing a switch does that could possibly change/improve the signal/sound. So, I was thinking about getting a Denafrips Iris DDC to do the reclocking job, but haven’t made any firm decisions yet.
I am not surprised, and I agree with @tonywingathat you should either hear a change, or not - your perception is not likely to change over time.
I have gone back and forth with fiber or Ethernet multiple times and as I said earlier, subtle changes at most, to the point where I doubt I could reliably discern the change, if there is any - they both sound good.
I never asked, were you trying to fix a problem or simply exploring possibilities to optimize your digital source?
So you added optical fiber in the Ethernet chain from your router to your music server? Anything else between the router and your music server?
And you hear no difference? Well, I’d say that you should have heard a difference immediately if you were going to hear anything. It’s likely that it will not change over time.
So the TP-Link boxes are installed and everything seems to be working, but I really don’t hear any difference. I’ll give it a few more days to break in or whatever and if I still can’t hear any difference, back they go.
This is a really good switch and I was lucky to have found and bought it for about 600 bucks Plus they give you a decent Quality shorter ethernet cable and the connecting power cord is of very good quality.
It's an elegant looking switch and the blinking lights are very subdued. It's built very well and all the underlying technical rationale is very compelling.
If you have enough ports on your router, you don't need a switch. Of course, listen and make sure you are enjoying your music. FWIW, I have a switch between my router and my streaming device, but only because I needed extra ports in the room.
The ifi iPower adaptors should work well and minimize AC noise generation. RELATIVELY affordable given the usual markup on anything that says "audiophile" on it.
I run my DAC on a Power X version, and then use the next level down for my streamer, and network switch in my HT.
The reason I am trying to add a bit of fiber is to remove noise. If you have fiber coming into your home and modem, then you are good to go. You could try running fiber out of your modem to your router, but you probably won’t hear any difference.
@curiousjimIt’s way to early decide anything, but without buying another $500 power supply, is there any decent LPS’s that have two or more 9 volt output connections that I can use on these network boxes?
I used one of these from Solupeak on the streamer end, though my FMC's are 5V:
The price has gone up significantly since I bought mine in December, but still affordable. I can't say that adding the LPS was night and day, but overall the fiber has been a nice upgrade.
First, know I have fully gone to the Dark Side of internet switches. I started with a Etherregen with a quality LPS, added a SOtM with a quality LPS switch then the English Electric with a quality LPS. I clock the Etherregen and SOtM with a Mutec Ref10. I have the ENO Ethernet filter and several SOtM cables with filters.
My experience is more is better.
If you want to start slowly I would suggest the Eno Ethernet filter, you should hear an improvement and if not send it back and stop. From there a quality switch will bring another level of betterness. The switch is a sum of its parts but key partsare the clock and power supply. An off the shelf switch is not going to have a decent clock so don’t try it and its power supply will be noisy. An external LPS is going to lower noise and you should hear it.
There is a level of diminishing returns depending on the resolution and noise of your system. I am all in with streaming. I used to believe streaming (Qobuz) could never sound close to a CD or ripped CD. Now I know otherwise.
There are other brands too, but the Netgear network through AC wire has been solid, easy to setup with pressing two buttons. One at the router and then at the Streamer location or desired device. This is not Audiophile stuff, but let me tell you it would be worth the cost to see if it meets your needs. I am very picky, not a critic, I just love HI Fi accurate sound and excitement from music. It sounds very good. It comes back with no intervention after a power outage. It just works slick. I have had flawless sreaming for 2 years now. A use the netgear switch to go between my Innous Mini Mk III, and a bluesound 2i.
TP-Link Gigabit SFP to RJ45 Fiber Media Converter, Fiber to Ethernet Converter 10/100/1000Mbps RJ45 Port to 1000Base-SX Multi-Mode Fiber (MC200CM) Black https://a.co/d/7JUU7Su
Easy peasy everything works and sounds good. There was no immediate difference and It’s way to early decide anything, but without buying another $500 power supply, is there any decent LPS’s that have two or more 9 volt output connections that I can use on these network boxes? @erik_squires@jjss49@zlone@mitch2and all.
Perhaps. Before I added the ethernet cables and running just wifi, a speed test on my TV would show >250mps. I consider that a pretty good wifi signal. Keep in mind that the main router is connected directly to the modem. I am using a wifi 6e mesh system with the secondary router close enough to have a full strength signal.
I ran the ethernet cable to the secondary router out of the audio grade network switch. 95% of the picture improvement was via wifi from the secondary router to the TV after adding the ethernet cable from the network switch. The additional small improvement came by connecting an ethernet cable directly to the TV from the network switch.
After connecting the secondary router to the network switch, wifi speeds increased to 550 mps in the room with the TV.
@tonywingaSo what I hear you saying, based on your description, is that you have Wi-Fi signal level issues that were remedied by hardwiring. I always recommend hardwiring backhauls from Mesh network nodes to avoid those exact issues.
The differences between cable specs are all about supporting longer distances, higher speeds, and reducing RF noise pickup through known methods. Cat 5, 5e, 6 (tighter twist, shielded, 6a (higher spec Cat 6), and 7 (change to Gigagate 45 connectors).
Luckily audio is a very low bandwidth network load, with few if any commercial offerings requiring more than 5Mbits/Sec (24-bit 192 KHz), well within the capability of even Cat 5'S 100Mbits/Sec @ 100M. If you were having issues it was likely RF interference related that the higher spec cable shielded from better than what was used before.
I just got the Network Acoustic Muon Pro series Ethernet cable and filter. It is an expensive Ethernet cable. I am considering three switches. Paul Pang, Ediscreation, and the new one that is due out in June from Network Acoustics. These switches range in price from $1.8k - 4.4k.
In the meantime, I have the D-link switch that I am inserting into my 2-channel system. If I can hear an audible difference with the $50 D-Link then I will proceed to consider one of my three options above. At this point, all I am out is $50 to try and experiment with. I have Fiber and Cat 6 and I am electing to go back to Cat 6. If I do not hear any difference in SQ then I go without a switch at my Lucas Audio Music Server. This to me is a very cheap test to try before investing any real money. I have absolutely nothing to lose except $50.
I also just ordered a Teddypardo LPS that I am going to plug into my Netgear modem to my Araknis 310 and 210 router and switch for the whole house network that is in a separate area that feeds my theater room and two-channel room which are at different ends of the house.
Interesting discussion @curiousjim. I presently am running two network switches in sequence between my CAT6 router and my Network Acoustics Eno Ethernet filter on the way to my server. The first switch is an inexpensive 5-port D-Link that is connected to an 8-port $200 commercial grade Cisco network switch by a $70 Audioquest cinnamon ethernet cable. Both switches have iFi iPower Elite SMPS’s that are plugged into my AQ Niagara power conditioner. Ideally the cleaner the signal you send to your DAC the better the music will sound in your system. RFI and EMI are the real enemies of internet music streaming IMO.
The simple test that I tried and convinced me of the efficacy of using a network switch was to first use an inexpensive switch between my router and my server. The $50 D-Link switch and a $20 L-Com ethernet cable were enough for me to notice that the music sounded less digitally harsh and smoother. Of course the amount of money you can spend on anything in streaming audio can get pretty outrageous. But you don’t have to go crazy to get positive results. I think it’s definitely worth a try.
@jjss49to do this assessment correctly you should have a well filtered or linear power supply on the ’clean’ side (receiving end) fiber media converter... otherwise, the noisy power supply there puts the electrical hash right back in ... before the dac gets the bitstream, thus defeating the purpose...
I added fiber to my system using the supplied switching supplies and could hear a clear difference. I then added a LPS on the streamer end to complete the setup. I think he is safe taking things in steps.
@jjss49- Good point about having a LPS after the fiber conversion. I believe the OP’s intended set-up involves only a short fiber cable so both power supplies will be located near his system. If LPSs are not going to be used for both converters, then it might be helpful if the dirty side SMPS can be on a different circuit from his audio equipment, or at least not plugged into the same power conditioner (could try it both ways). BTW, the linear supply I linked in my earlier post (25W DC Linear Power Supply 5.1V 3.5A) is currently available on Prime with free returns. The OP should confirm his converters will operate on 5v since some do but others, like the converters I linked, require a 9v supply, which are not as easy to find as the more common 5v.
Finally, with all of this stuff, IME, do not expect dramatic improvements or changes in what you hear. For me, these ancillary items have resulted in subtle changes at most.
Seeing as this is only a test, I just ordered a couple of the Ethernet to fiber boxes from Amazon and we’ll see what happens. If I hear anything I’ll get better power supplies and if I hear nothing, they’ll go back and I’ve shelved adding a switch for now. I do have a cheap five channel switch somewhere, but it can stay in the cabinet for now.
to do this assessment correctly you should have a well filtered or linear power supply on the ’clean’ side (receiving end) fiber media converter... otherwise, the noisy power supply there puts the electrical hash right back in ... before the dac gets the bitstream, thus defeating the purpose...
besides putting in the Ethernet to fiber, I’ve also been thinking about getting the Denifrips Iris DDC, but unlike the Ethernet to fiber boxes, the Iris isn’t going to be returnable, so it’s much farther down the list.
Thanks @jeffstrickfor the answer. Seeing as this is only a test, I just ordered a couple of the Ethernet to fiber boxes from Amazon and we’ll see what happens. If I hear anything I’ll get better power supplies and if I hear nothing, they’ll go back and I’ve shelved adding a switch for now. I do have a cheap five channel switch somewhere, but it can stay in the cabinet for now.
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