Never Owned a Tube Amp and Want Advice

might be true for ralph's amps but this is something that is best NEVER to do

Yes!- in case it wasn't clear, don't pull power tubes out of any amp that has an output transformer while its running.

There are good points about how much tube power you will need for your speakers.  They may not be a good match.  High power tube amps can be noisy, of course there are very quiet well made tube amps with 50 watts or more but well made and quiet tends to be expensive.  If you have the money go for a good one.  
Starting with a pre amp and SS amp may be an  easier way into tube sound and you speakers may be happier.  The Decware CSP3 is a very nice tube pre amp.  Decware also make very nice tube amplifiers.

Be8ng new to tubes my advise, Look at Ayon ,Why they had made in Austria Great build anti resonance machined aluminum not sheet metal  great Lundahl transformers very important for Fidelity 
most important, tube Safety ,Ayon has a Smart bias which is microprocessor controlled, you hit a button a few minute check 
it monitors wear and keeps each tube at optimum range under 80% of max last longer ,and if a tube goes bad ,not like some wear they glow red and explode or poor weak tube it Automatically goes into mute if a bad tube is detected
and you unplug ,or if not in the room after 15 minutes Automaticlly
Shuts off, on back indicator tells you which tube has the fault 
shut off 15 minutes ,replace tube ,turn on wait 15minutes to get up to temperature ,then hit rebias button volume off . In 3 -4 minutes 
processor calibrated blinking Ayon logo stops blinking ,ready for music .  Rebias check 1-2 months the best biasing system 
on the market I just bought another the spirit $5 is the new best of at around $5k the triton is the power house, for the average person 
the new Scorpio xs around $3100  USA tube audio 
is very good answering questions you may have the spirit I have older one 8 years old still runs perfect.

Another great thread, very informative! 

OP, what is your preamp?  Didn't see that mentioned anywhere.  My suggestion would be to get yourself a good tube pre and see how you like it with your DNA 500.  I'm using a DNA .5 (100 watts) with a Rogue Perseus tube pre and very happy for now.  Started small and cheap with a Schiit Saga tube pre which sounded good but knew I could do better.  As you've probably read here and elsewhere this could be the best of both worlds for you and a worry free entry into tubes (no biasing, etc.).   

I do have a Jolida 502b tube integrated (60 watts, Gold Lion KT88) that I used for years and still do occasionally.  The Jolida definitely gives you more of that "tube magic" but the .5/Perseus combo gives better bass control and punch.  

BTW, my speakers are old Snell Type D (rated at 87 dB and 5 ohms) and  not quite so old Gallo Ref 3.1 (88dB, 4 - 8 ohms?).  The Jolida powers them both quite satisfactorily for me in the 80 - 90 dB range.  Although, the Gallos do seem to play just a bit louder/cleaner before any hint of distortion.  I am very interested in trying some speakers over 90 dB with the Jolida.  Unfortunately, can't afford any Tannoys right now!  ;-}

Keep us posted

+1
@pkatsuleas My suggestion would be to get yourself a good tube pre and see how you like it with your DNA 500...

@dsper
Exactly. If you like separates, try this for a while if you want to learn and appreciate the differences a little more.   Allows you to leverage your current DNA-500 on the back end for a while. Add a really nice tube preamp on the front end. Get some good input/driver tubes. Still a bit 2D sounding, but it gets you half way there and its fun to learn how half tube and full tube sounds. 

Then curiosity about full 3D tube sound sets in for some after hearing the tube preamp in the loop awhile with SS amp on the back end. At that point, start eyeballing your future tube amplifier and decent interconnect cables to go along with the all tube setup.  Doing this in steps is fun too.

I own a tube amp and a ss amp. Swap them out to hear the differences and enjoy both greatly. Tube amps are more 'hands on' than ss amps IME. Tube amps also have a few idiosyncrasies that ss amps do not,IMO.
Firstly, what is not really mentioned here ( at least that I could find) is that tube amps are generally more costly to run. One has to budget for expected tube replacement. Also, typically IME the amps run hotter than ss amps. ( particularly Class D ss amps) So, if heat is a concern, and it should be in many parts of the world today, then this needs to be considered. Then we have the biasing scheme required by most tube amps...( unless they are self biasing, which is the way I would STRONGLY recommend you go). I used to own an incredible sounding tube amp, but the biasing protocols were bordering on criminal! This is less common today, but still something to be very much factored in. 
Lastly, expect a tube amp to require more warm-up than the typical ss amp. With a lot of tube amps one has to wait for the tubes to stabilize before listening to music, that generally is not a factor with ss amps. In case it sounds like i am down on tube designs, absolutely NOT, but one has to expect their 'requirements' to get the best sound. ( and that sound is one that I generally think sounds better than the best ss amps, at least that I have heard!).

OP, what is your preamp? Didn't see that mentioned anywhere. My suggestion would be to get yourself a good tube pre and see how you like it with your DNA 500.

I currently use two tubed preamps - CJ 17LS2 and PL Dialogue Premium. In my listening, the CJ is more nuanced and textured while the PL is more forward and analytical. The bass is better with the PL but that may be due to a slight impedance mismatch between the CJ and the DNA - 500. More tube rolling options with the PL, which I have done and can hear with the new Tylers even though they are not broken in yet. 

I also have a McCormack RLD solid state preamp that is not really that bad except it is a bit too smooth and polite for my taste.

My expectation is that a tube amp will improve the imaging, layered sound stage, and sense of aliveness I think I hear when the treble gets better detail without sibilance. 

Thank for listening, 

Dsper

LOL I should have just asked first before adding my 2 cents!

Ok, All I can do is recommend the tube amps that, "I", personally enjoy. Like everything else this is WAY subjective. And the speakers will show the amps differently as well.
But there is more to those which I like than just the sound. And the tube power differential people have talked about? That is a "real", thing. I can't say that I understand it very well. But as the different manufacturers test, rate and also design and build differently? Your going to see a wide range of differences because of that as well!
 I have one pair of mono-blocks that only rates at 4 watts but pushes as well as any 40-50 watt tube amp that I have tried. "Sonance, Opera 300B cyber". And I will say that most tube amps that I have tried rated at 30-50 Wpc  will push as well "IMHO", as most SS amps rated for 100WPC. "Not-withstanding, Pass, Threshold and a few others"!
 My favorite tube amps overall are the "Manley Labs", ALL of the offerings from Manley sound crazy nice and are also built like a tank! And the Biasing is the most user friendly I have ever seen. Marked out for you on the top of the amplifiers themselves. And I believe they even still give you a free multimeter when you purchase them from the factory which is in Ca..
Something i have noticed though in the way you want to power your speakers for the best sound which I have never heard anyone else say before though. When I purchase/use SS amps? Headroom is a GREAT thing. It helps keep the distortion low. Keeps you away from clipping which can destroy some amps very quickly. And is just a good thing all around it seems. With the tube amps? Not so much! You want the amp max, "Where it will clip", To be near your reference listening level. Why?
 Because with a good tube amp that is where most sound there very best! But a SS amp? For most, 
"Again though",
"Not-withstanding, "Pass, Threshold and a few other SS amps, that work a little bit differently", You want that headroom to stay well away from where they clip. That for the best sound you can get from a SS amp. Because distortion from a SS amp is always just horrible noise. 
 I also have to agree with "WolfGarcia", above. The most bang for the buck", I believe would be from "Jolida", Just, now it is named, "Black Ice"!
Black Ice, also has a certain, one Mr. "Jim Fosgate", in the house now. "
"That fellow currently holds more patents than even I! And I believe he's near or even past the ,(Four-Hundred) mark now"! And those patents are all related to audio. Which now, "Black Ice" basically, has free-access to!
 And as far as tubes? they do all sound a bit different. And different as well, each in different gear! The 300B is my favorite, "Output Stage" valve to use. But they can be a bit pricey, even for new tubes currently made!

My expectation is that a tube amp will improve the imaging, layered sound stage, and sense of aliveness I think I hear when the treble gets better detail without sibilance.

Right. Should be fine. Only slight concern is when you say the McCormack RLD is too polite. Never heard that one myself. Had a DNA1, beautiful sounding amp. Very, very close to the Aronov and Melody tube integrateds. Very close in sound, very close in perceived power. Which there's the 150W SS to 50W tube equivalence thing. But in terms of sound, if you like the DNA and just want a little better imaging, layering and palpable presence, you should be able to find that with tubes. Any of the amps people are recommending should do that easily. 

Improved treble detail without sibilance is a sort of hallmark of tubes vs SS. The better tube amps provide extended treble that can seem downright liquid. The last guy to hear my system was into digital and while he was here kept thinking my system should be more cold and analytical. Only find himself yearning for that nice full round warm sound that was missing when he got home. So there's something about it that wins over even those who aren't naturally inclined. Seeing how this is already the direction you want to go its a safe bet you will find what you are looking for.

I’d skip the tube amp altogether and go for a class A SS integrated paired with a Tubed phono preamp. That is if your into analog/vinyl, if not then never mind....

I have owned Rogue Audio tube amp products for almost 5 years and find they deliver a sound that I prefer.
I started with a Cronus Magnum II - KT120 power tubes delivering 100 WPC. It gave me a sound that I really enjoyed over just about every other amplifier I have heard. Powerful enough to be dynamic and more than room filling with 84db and up speakers. Power Tubes last ~ 2-1/2 years or so. Bias adjustment is easy- remove a plate with two captured thumb screws and flip the 4 switches to display the current reading on the built in meter. adjust the screw with the supplied screwdriver until the meter reads the correct value.
Takes 5 minutes every 6 months or so. Usually they do not need any adjustment, just check the value on the meter.
The sound is highly refined and detailed, more neutral than syrupy, smooth with a very large 3D sound stage and excellent bass, midrange and treble.
The possible downsides are that it is somewhat large and heavy (still fits on the top of a rack or shelf), does give off some heat and can have some local hum near the amp that becomes silent a few feet away (never through the speakers). Downsides are never an issue for me and the sound quality IMHO beats every solid state amp below and significantly above its price.
The new Cronus Magnum III is supposed to be even better.  

Hi All,

I appreciate the discussion and advice.

Figuring I had to start somewhere, I decided I had to start somewhere so I found a used CJ LP66S, and will go from there.

Thought it would be a fairly low cost way to see if I can hear a tube difference and sell it down the line if I decide to change it out.

Thanks for listening,

Dsper 

@dsper 
A nice place to start.  What brand/number tubes came with it?

Thought it would be a fairly low cost way to see if I can hear a tube difference

The difference between tube and transistor is usually pretty easy to hear. I've had people walk in from off the street and they were able to tell the difference. I wouldn't worry about that!

A nice place to start.  What brand/number tubes came with it?

  One quad of Penta Labs KT88SC, and one quad of JJ 6550. Seller claims they all test around 75 on his Knight KG-600.

...they were able to tell the difference. I wouldn't worry about that!

You are probably correct, but any time I think I know 100% what I am doing is when I find out I learn something new!
  

@dsper 
A positive comment in a 2009 Absolute Sound test article, fwiw: 
http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/tested-conrad-johnson-et2-preamp-lp66s-stereo-power-amplifi...

"When it comes to imaging, the LP66S evinced plenty of tube magic. Image outlines were solidly anchored within the soundstage. When partnering the ET2, it easily kept pace in this respect, giving full scope to a deep and spacious soundstage."

pkatsuleas  wrote: Unfortunately, can't afford any Tannoys right now! ;-}

They seem to be catching my eye lately as well, though I have never heard them. Seem to have a high cost even used. 

High cost as used is actually a good sign--the market demand suggests that it well liked.

I have a local dealer that carries CJ equipment.  It sounds good to me.  That dealer also carries the Italian Synthesis brand and that brand is quite impressive for the money.  They build two integrated amps that I particularly like, the A40 and A100.  These come with a very good built-in DAC and utilize KT 66 tubes.  This is not that easy a brand to find, but, it is worth hunting down.

Okay everyone, 

The Conrad Johnson LP66S was delivered on Sunday and secreted into the man cave.

I set it up today while my better half was at exercise class: Theta ProBasic III DAC, PWT, PL Dialogue Premium, with the LP66S replacing the McCormack DNA-500, and going into Tyler Acoustics MMX5's. Saving the turntable for later.

Initial impressions after about three hours of listening:

First, no problem about power or loudness.

Second, the overall sound seems more dense. I lost some of that when I switched out the Thiel CS5's for the Tylers. Now it is mostly back about 80 - 90 percent. FWIW, I think the Thiels were known for that politeness at the expense of some dynamics.

Third, the bass seems more solid and clear in the mix while still being textured.

Fourth the "spit on the microphone" is back. I am listening to Adele's "19" and it has clearly returned. On the song "Love", there is noticeably more sheen to the celeste. Also more sheen and brass to the cymbals on JJ Cale's "Troubadour".

Fifth, I think there are a few more ambient clues but nothing near holographic that I can hear.

The previous owner was not using the amp routinely and suggested that the amp capacitors might need a couple of long listening sessions to reconstitute the capacitors.....

By the way, I would not be afraid to buy again from "Tuggs" in Washington state. Excellent packing job and the amp looks like new! No trouble with FedEx.

Lastly, given I have changed out both speakers and amps, I have sort of broken the rule about one component at a time. Having said that, there is still a touch of sibilance I noticed after installing the Tylers and may have to change out their resistors. Easy job as they are wired in behind the connection posts on the speaker backs. Or possibly change tubes in the preamp? Or maybe, I just need more time on the speakers as they are now about 75 hours from new :-)! 

Such a fine mess I have created with things to learn and adjust.

So...right now I am happy. 

Thanks for listening and all of the constructive comments. Much appreciated and keep any thoughts coming!

Dsper

What you see here, ladies and gentlemen, is one of the more interesting effects of the demise of brick/mortar retail. To quote the President: “Sad.”
I recommend massive online research and Bach.
Used to be you could trundle over to the stereo store and get all this out of the way right there in the actual presence of the gear! What a concept!
As an old retailer I can tell you I found this virus-enabled retail revolution to be a bit abrupt. 

Hi All, 

I reread this thread and want to thank you all for your comments and shared information. I did some more homework by reading other threads, referring to Harley's book, etc. and decided I needed "just do it" and purchase a tube amp.  I figured used at $2,000 and a reputable manufacturer was a good place to start and would allow decent resale potential.

I have acquired a Conrad Johnson LP66S. I set it up about three weeks ago while my better half was at exercise class: Theta ProBasic III DAC, Perfectwave Transport, PL Dialogue Premium and then my CJ 17LS2 preamp; with the LP66S replacing McCormack DNA-500 and Coda CS amps, and going into Tyler Acoustics MMX5's. Saving the turntable for later.

Initial impressions after some 30 hours of listening with the CJ amp:

First, no immediately noticeable problem with power or loudness.

Second, the overall sound seems more dense. I lost some of that when I switched out the Thiel CS5's for the Tylers. Now it is mostly back about 80 - 90 percent. FWIW, I think the Thiels were known for that politeness at the expense of some dynamics. The bass with the tube amp seems more solid and clear in the mix while still being textured.

Third, I think I hear more detail with the CJ amp. I am listening to Adele's "19" and on the song "Love", for example, there is noticeably more sheen to the celeste. Also more sheen and brass to the cymbals on JJ Cale's "Troubadour".

FOURTH, I definitely have a layered soundstage and am listening to music and not just the speakers. I think there are more ambient clues and better tonal decay. These positives really showed up with the CJ preamp. The PL preamp sounded lifeless in comparison. I mean like night and day different.

The previous owner was not using the CJ amp routinely and suggested that the amp capacitors might need a couple of long listening sessions to reconstitute the capacitors.....

By the way, I would not be afraid to buy again from "Tuggs" in Washington state. Excellent packing job and the amp looks like new! No trouble with FedEx.

Lastly, given I have changed out both speakers and amps, I have broken the rule about changing one component at a time. Having said that, there is still a touch of sibilance I noticed upon installing the Tylers that has not gone away regardless of preamp/amp combinations. Poor recordings are not a fun listen.

The MM5Xs are brand new speakers with SEAS Tweeters and I have listened to them for about 100 hours. Tyler Lashbrook advised me from the very beginning that they can take a couple hundred hours to break in.... 

Such a fine mess I have created with things to learn and adjust.

Most important, I can hear music and not just the speakers.

Again, I appreciate the responses and advice. You all helped me. Any further thoughts would be appreciated.

Thank you! Dsper

congrats on a good choice and a good result

c-j gear is simply beyond reproach in build quality and sound quality and there is certainly an expected, lovely synergy between the 17LS2 and the LP66...

my premier 16LS2 and ET5 are forever pieces - they may be equalled by others but ever surpassed for the listening pleasure they bring

enjoy!

Regarding the sibilance- that really shouldn't be showing up at all, even on a new speaker (it might be bright until it breaks in, but sibilance suggests something wrong).


Does it do this on all sources?

Does it do this on all sources?

To be clear, I am talking about "bliss" and "sound" versus "blisss" and "ssound".

It is not a problem on all CDs. Better recorded ones seem to be less of an issue.

I had inserted my Hegel HD25 DAC and it was slightly worse and generally more harsh.

My Theta R2R DAC is more resolving and detailed.

I am wondering if the SEAS Excel tweeter is just going to be more work than I thought.

Ty Lashbrook and I had discussed what resistor to use for the tweeters before I ordered the speakers. I do not recall where we landed on that discussion but he said that, once I had a couple hundred hours on the speakers, I could easily change the resistor to shape the sound a bit. I have no idea if a resistor change would solve the problem. And in all fairness, I have not yet called Ty to discuss.

Thanks for listening,  

Dsper 

You’ve been given a lot of really great advice.

I’m going to suggest a different direction - why not consider a tube preamp?

That way you get the best of both worlds!

Edit: Oops! Just noticed you had found something. Never mind. 

I have gone with a Pathos Hybrid AMP after trying a Raven Blackhawk with not much luck.

Love my Raven CeLest Towers and the Raven cables.  

Loving the Pathos and Raven combo. 

tubes...pia

To be clear, I am talking about "bliss" and "sound" versus "blisss" and "ssound".

I get it. Do you have another source besides CD? If no this could be a digital problem... is it in both channels??

Hi atmasphere,

I need to hook up the turntable and have not done that yet.

Hear it in both channels.

Right now I am listening to a Leopold Stokowski remastered CD and things sound fine; of course, no vocals.

Dsper

Some very useful information here.
My Harbeth speakers and room size are nearly identical to yours. I've got a VAC KT88 amp that sounds amazing IMO. Not sure exactly the output perhaps 75w?

mid40sguy   Some very useful information here

You are correct about that; I have learned a lot. 

 

I need to hook up the turntable and have not done that yet.

Do that and try something with vocals.

Okay, I am being obstinate and have not tried the turntable yet.

I took out the LP66S last evening and reinserted the CODA CS (weighs less than the DNA-500). The sibilance pretty much went away. I reinserted the LP66S today and the sibilance same back.

And I also heard what I would term a harsher sound such that I wanted to reduce volume (Yes, I realize that the volume levels between amps are not the same but there was a harshness).

So....

My tube rolling experience with preamps tells me that you can get these types of effect from different tubes. Does the same thing hold true for tube amp 6922 driver tubes?  

Currently, there are Electro Harmonix tubes in the two driver positions and a Sovtek Reflector in the input/phase splitter position.  I know I do not like Electro Harmonix in my CJ preamp.

Wonder would happen if I changed out the Electro Harmonix tubes? Many blog comments indicate that many users do not like them....

Any thoughts?

Connected with Ty Lashbrook and he suggested changing the tweeter  resistors to a four or five ohm from the installed 3 ohm; I am thinking the tube change should come first. 

Thanks for listening,

Dsper

My tube rolling experience with preamps tells me that you can get these types of effect from different tubes. Does the same thing hold true for tube amp 6922 driver tubes?  

Currently, there are Electro Harmonix tubes in the two driver positions and a Sovtek Reflector in the input/phase splitter position. I know I do not like Electro Harmonix in my CJ preamp.

Wonder would happen if I changed out the Electro Harmonix tubes?

You've just put your finger on exactly the problem with using 6922/6DJ8s in amplifiers. Its hard to find a good one! The tube is very prone to microphonics and harsh sound. The Russian tubes IMO made this problem even worse.


Yes, if you have decent tubes the sound of the amp will change quite a lot. I've personally had terrible luck with the EH 6922. IMO, its pretty easy to find better sounding tubes than any of the Russian-made miniature tubes- 12AX7, 12AU7, 6922 and so on. Its not surprising at all to hear that a microphonic 6922 is causing silibance!!

I have a pair of 1960's Amperex NOS "Butt Uglies" coming from Brent Jesse. Figured to try them even though they are like double the price of the Sovtecs and EHs.

If they improve things, then maybe I might try some" really good", i.e., expensive ones.

I remembered that I still had the EH's I took out of my CJ preamp when I put in Phillips....

Anyway I substituted those for the EH's in the tube amp and it helped.

Can hardly wait for the butt uglies to arrive!

Dsper

Butt uglies, any flavor, rule!

Do you have another source besides CD?

It's taking longer than a week for the USPS to ship my "butt uglies" 200 miles. Should arrive on Monday...really looking forward to breaking the covid19 monotony :-) !

In the meantime, I set up my turntable.This is a Technics SL1200Mk 5 with an AT150MLX cartridge. 

I still have a bit of sibilance so I am hoping the butt uglies will help. 

In the meantime, I set up my turntable.This is a Technics SL1200Mk 5 with an AT150MLX cartridge.

Turntables, especially those with high output, can have a variety of issues causing sibilance. Make sure you have a low capacitance cable between the tonearm and preamp- that will help prevent brightness. The cable should not be more than a meter and 12-20pf per foot is a good value for capacitance of the cable.


The mechanical setup of the cartridge in the arm (VTA, tracking angle and the like) also can affect its tonality. The platter pad can too- the rubber mat found on most Technics machines isn’t helpful. This is all probably a topic for another thread, but since it all affects sibilance I felt I should mention this.

My Heresy IIIs (allegedly 99db efficiency) with my recently acquired MQA streamer and higher capability turntable cartridge are clear as a bell using a 12wpc or so little SEP amp...no clue how hard I'm pushing the little amp (it gets loud...sometimes...often alcohol related so SUE ME) but I'm very sensitive to overload distortion and seem to be using a relatively small amount of the wattage as I hear no breakup or distortion...none...the bass under 58hz is covered swimmingly by 2 powered subs.

Well, the 1960's Amperex tubes have been installed about ten hours now and I can hear less sibilance and the sound is clearer to me. This is with both the DAC and turntable. 

I feel I should be using the digital front end to evaluate any further amp changes, as my digital is further along the quality curve. 

The analog seems a bit thin and tipped to the treble in comparison to the digital which is fuller with better soundstage.

I have sent the Technics 1200 off to KABUSA for a tonearm rewire and intend to install their fluid damper that had just been sitting in the box. We'll see after that.

I have both a felt and rubber mat. Not sure I can tell a difference but the best sound has been when using both mats! with the rubber mat sitting on the felt mat; and with appropriate adjustment in tonearm height. 

While cost is not necessarily a quality gauge, with $6,500 list in my digital and less than a $1,000 list in the analog; I keep thinking real improvement is going to require a better table and cartridge.

Anyway, I appreciate the comments that have been shared on this thread. I have learned a lot. 

At some point, I am going to be looking for another tube amp so stay tuned!

Thanks, Dsper

PrimaLuna: perfect starter tube amp. Probably keep it for life too. 

KISS
Hard to go wrong with this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202861166451

https://rogershighfidelity.com

Also
https://www.ravenaudio.com

And ah
https://www.primaluna-usa.com

Keep in mind that sibilance is in a lot of vocal recordings; if you try to kill it by rolling off the tweeter (the resistors you mention), something else might be lost.  The most annoying vocal sibilance I hear tends to be in classical choral recordings, but then again, sibilance is pretty prominent in live choral performances as well.  

Have you tried experimenting with speaker placement, toe-in and rake angle?  In particular, toe-in and rake angle can change the sound quite a bit in the range where sibilance occurs.  

While cost is not necessarily a quality gauge, with $6,500 list in my digital and less than a $1,000 list in the analog; I keep thinking real improvement is going to require a better table and cartridge.

I had what I thought was a really nice digital front end. Very happy with it. Until I got the idea to drag out my 30 year old Technics to compare, just for kicks. The cantilever on the Stanton 681EEE had somehow gotten bent. Pliers bent it fairly straight looking enough without breaking, this is just for fun anyway, oh wait I need a phono stage, drag out an even older Kenwood integrated (back in the 70's they all had phono stages built in) and fired it up. Holy crap. What the.... was still playing records when the wife came home. That sounds really good, what is it? Tom Petty. No I mean what, it sounds so good! (She couldn't see the turntable, assumed it was some kind of special CD.) Its a record. Dang! Well it sounds really good!  

If your $1k table isn't kicking butt on your DAC its not the table. Its the setup, or your choices (AT? Really?). 

Get some Nobsound springs ($30) adjust so its almost fully compressed using the least amount of springs you can. This will improve bottom end while taming the top end, and you will be able to fine tune and tailor the amount by adding springs or weight. Less springs/more weight more bottom end/less top end. And vice versa.

Then when you go shopping for a better table skip everything that uses an interconnect. Interconnects on phono adds a whole bunch of connections, each one harmful to the delicate phono cartridge signal. Interconnects introduce noise, distortion, and expense. Stick with arms with hard wired phono leads. Better sound, less money.

I just have to ask....
 I am curious. Just what amplifiers would I be looking at, if they were "tube amps", which "Ralph", has designed and possibly also built?
    I for one, want to check them out.

http://www.atma-sphere.com/en/index.html