Not only what Tablejockey says but also the motor of any TT is usually its most reliable component and is the last thing I would worry about if purchasing an expensive well made new TT. Proper lubrication is all you need worry about, every few years.
End Game Turntable suggestions
Hello all, looking for insights to help me narrow down to some core choices; I am open to new or preowned. My system details can be seen under my profile.
In summary I have significantly expanded my vinyl collection and as of now I am looking to purchase an end game turntable appropriate for my setup. As you can see I use Mola Mola Kaluga Monos, and I really like the Zesto Pre and Phonostages. I find the class D/tube pre combination very pleasing.
I would appreciate suggestions for around $5-8K (table + arm), new or used. I will have separate budget for cartridge. One preferred option (but not must-have) is universal voltage, as I may move the unit to Europe later. My current vintage turntable (Project Perspective) is 22 years old, and while I don't know how to compare to something really amazing, I can say that my setup is lacking detail and bass. The tonearm is terrible to keep aligned. Based on visits to Axpona and Cap Audio Fest and other research, I am thinking of a few in my budget, but will really value your suggestions of other brands:
- Origin Live Sovereign
- VPI Signature
- SAM Sinner
- Thorens TD 1601 (semi automatic)
Visual appeal is important to me (which is why Technics 1200 is not on my list despite great reviews everywhere). I love the idea of set it and forget it DD tables, but unfortunately mostly out of my budget (eg VPI HW-40 going for abt 11K used)....
Sorry for the long post but my hope is this background and help solicit good suggestions. Thanks
"Many people raise concerns abt potential future problems if motor goes bad - any idea if VPI stocks these motors?" I wouldn't be concerned about future motor problems. Even in the event something goes wrong, VPI historically has been solid with product support-even with MW at the helm. My personal experiences have been positive. VPI's DD's have been out long enough to read about iffy motor or other problems. I haven't come across anything in mags/forums. |
OK, what appeals to you visually? Still want to get DD, that's my choice, best if it is quartz locked if you do. here is a beauty, belt drive, I don't know anything about it, except Micro Seiki makes great quality stuff, often innovative
in a thread on Audiogon the L version allows long tonearms. Pick your own tonearm, with separate advice can be a good thing, and you may want to change to a different tonearm in the future. manual from vinyl engine file:///C:/Users/ellio/Downloads/ve_microseiki_bl111.pdf
see the last post there. |
Questions such as this inevitably result in a sea of recommendations and there’s no value in me just adding to the list. But here’s something important, imo:
I would not be so quick to overcome your bias here. I have found that there tends to be a difference in sound between high mass and lower mass designs, so it’s pretty natural to develop a preference for one over the other, depending on your taste. |
Definitely listen to the Rega Planar 10 but with the top of the line Aphelion cartridge and not the Apheta which I found somewhat harsh and unforgiving of less than perfect recordings. When I tested the Planar 10 and Planar 8 I ended up going for the 8 with the Ania pro cartridge which has a spectacularly refined and "together" presentation. Since both turntables run from an outboard power source one assumes there should not be a problem changing voltages (but check this). |
@musicmatters1206 IMHO...there is a tremendous amount of great info here. As far as the 1601 goes I am extremely happy. I agree with all of the wonderful design concepts from the point of what they contribute to the ultimate sound of the vinyl. However, I do not believe mechanical design can make a bad pressing/recording/mix sound significantly better. I believe the most important piece to the puzzle is the cartridge. With that said, would I hang a $10K cartridge from the 1601? Likely not. However, when the stylus on my Ortofon wears out I will certainly look to spending $3-$5K on one to use on it. Many don't think a $4K TT is worthy of a $4K cartridge. In the case of the 1601 I disagree. I believe isolation and proper set up will allow the 1601 to perform extremely well with any $200 to $5K cartridge installed. At least as well as the cartridge allows. |
Dear @musicmatters1206 : " Basis Signature 2500 with vacuum, i am going to have sleepless nights.... "
Well that unit set you back over 15K: for what?
You need a TT with speed stability mated with an excellent tonearm and these are part characteristics of the RP-10 that you can add the Basis reflex clamp and you are done rith there.
Put your money where it mattters after the RP-10: A Lyra cartridge/VDH low output, Ortofon, MSL, etc, etc and a way better phono stage as this " humble " unit by PS Audio that competes even aginst the very expensive $$$$ Swiss CH units. Please read the review at the Atkinson measurements that no one Zestos can even dream but that helps a lot for you can have a very high resolution and heavy quality performance levels in the sounds reproduction at your room/system:
PS Audio Stellar Phono phono preamplifier Page 2 | Stereophile.com
PS Audio Stellar Phono phono preamplifier Measurements | Stereophile.com
It's your money and your system but don't waste your time and money for " expensive " audio products. Price tag means nothing for any one. A fine tunned room/system will sounds a lot better than a maga$$$$$$$ systems where money can't " fine tuning " job no matters what, yes you have to learn through the time that " fine tunning " but first step yo do it is that your system links have the " hidden capacities " to do it and the RP and PS Audio have it.
R.
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An uncommon brand with a great lineage is Nottingham Analogue. Their Dais design was one of the last by the late great Tom Fletcher. Best to buy from the UK. Price without tax is in your range. I have the predecessor Mentor with a custom plinth and Dais bearing, motor and power supply. It doesn’t perform to the level of my DIY all air bearing (thrust AND radial air) table, but it’s no disgrace in that company. Add a Terminator air tonearm (if available) and you have a superb piece that will last you until you have a six figure itch. One quirk with the Dais: you have to start it rotating by hand. Fletcher’s great insight was to use a precision low power motor, which was only just strong enough to rotate the platter against bearing friction. That leaves very little energy to turn into noise. And it works out that way in practice - the background is astonishingly black.
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Technics SP10 mk3 will usually cost a great deal more than a mk2 and is more difficult to find. If cost is an object, certainly the mk2 is fine. In my own experience the Denon DP80 is a bit better than the mk2 in stock form. I found the OEM mk2 in a slate plinth to have a trace “gray” coloration compared to the DP80 also in a slate plinth. But the SP10 mk3 is a world class turntable even by modern standards, in my opinion. I hasten to add that my mk3 was purchased NOS, now resides in a slate and solid cherrywood plinth, was Krebs modified, runs on JP Jones discrete chip installed and calibrated by JP. Just to say that in my experience there is more than a casual difference between a mk2 and mk3. |
mdalton I inherited a Thorens TD124 with an SME arm. Wonderful! Tremendous quality, that heavy platter, in incredibly close tolerances, best most coherent bass I ever got out of a TT. Design, moving parts below the deck are easy to understand, clean, lubricate, keep in top shape., My problem is my springy wood floors, so I sadly had to move on. The bearing is susceptible to vertical motion, so I traded it, moved to my current setup, also in a firmer location. Perhaps the Thorens bearing would be less problematic there. |
I know Sota and SME and Klipsch and others also have a reputation for long term, excellent after sales support. It might be fun and useful for us to put our collective experience together and make a list of companies that we have knowledge of who have a good track record of support for their products and their customers. Ortofon comes to mind for me too, now that I think of it. |
Mikey Fremer addressed the motor used in the HW40 in his review with very positive commentary. It is an very high grade motor. I know that Matt made a significant investment in inventory of motors to bring the price down on the product. VPI has a track record that is unsurpassed in the industry for providing support for their products. For example, this year I was able to purchase needed parts for my HW17 RCM that is 35 years old. I have newer products from much bigger companies from Japan and Switzerland and the USA that are just decorations because parts are unobtainable. It makes me laugh when I read some of the posts on the web saying nasty things about companies like VPI, or McIntosh, or Conrad Johnson all of which support every product they ever manufactured. Of course things could change, but the foot tracks in the sand are clear. |
I'm adding this post for the OP, as well as anybody whom might visit this thread seeking information at a later date. It does look like the range of TT's and Drive Motor Designs for the TT's has become extensive since the idea of a Used Model extended into suggestions for a Vintage Model as well. It is known that a Vintage Model with a certain level of attention given to the servicing of the designs incorporated critical parts, such as a Platter Bearing, Motor Bearing (Idler Drive) and the Electrics can produce a TT that is a worthy contender to a Modern Design / Produced TT costing much more. Add to the attention to servicing, additional attention for the optimisation of the Speed Control and the Vintage Model will catapult itself even further toward being a worthy competitor. It does not take too much searching to discover ancillaries are being offered and readily available, as 'Off the Shelf' or 'DIY Build', that have the capability to substantially improve on this area of performance as well. Both Belt, or Idler Drives are easily improved on with this approach to additional ancillaries to control speed. I have a Custom Built Speed Control Unit that works on both Idler and Belt Drive TT's. It has proved a substantial improvement on my Idler Drives. I have not experienced it on an owned Belt Drive, but have heard another version of it used on a Belt Drive in another system and am of the opinion, the TT was much improved as a result of the ancillary being added. The DD TT in general is already supplied with a design that will offer a very accurate speed control incorporated. The add on ancillaries for a Belt or Idler Drive can in certain cases cost as much as a complete and functioning DD TT. This is one reason that attracts one to the DD TT as a worthwhile consideration. DD TT's come with a more difficult task requirement, if there is a intention to improve on the Models designed Speed Control. A certain skill level is required to understand the Model of DD TT's electronics and it is best practice to use an EE with a known history of working on these designs, the chances are going to be significantly increased to receive a optimised end product. My SP10 Mkii has a undergone a Overhaul of Electrics and Mechanical Parts. Additionally it has a Modification carried out by a very well respect EE who specialises in these TT's. The Mod' in place has improved Speed Control on this TT when compared to the usual function. Many Vintage TT's in use are not optimised for use. This is ultimately present as a , result of the age of the TT Model. The risk areas relate to the Platter Bearing, especially the unknown quantity of Rotations having happened and the condition within the Bearing Housing potentially being unwanted, whilst these rotations have been and are happening. The Platter Bearing is an important consideration, the common encounter, when being investigative of the inner of the Bearing Housing. Is the chance that the Bearing Housing Internal and Parts that have a Mechanical Interface are Arid Dry. Commonly the evidence to be seen, is that the Bearing Liner Bush, which will usually be produced from a Metal, is in direct contact with the Platter Spindle during rotations. Arid Dry Conditions with abrasive metal on metal operation is not optimised in any description. A less common encounter is where the Spindle Base has a contact with a Steel Ball that has Scribe Marks etched into the Balls surface. The Arid Dry Condition with a Spindle seated upon and and in direct contact with a damaged ball, is certainly an unwanted interface. The abrasive effects of a defaced Ball will certainly have a unwanted impact on the quietness of the bearing in operation. Arid Dry Conditions with abrasive metal on metal operation is not optimised in any description. The Thrust Pad in contact with the Ball, is most likely to be seen with a excessive wear, (indentation) this will increase friction, especially when the contact is Arid Dry. A worse case is when a evidence is witnessed, where the wear suggests that a Eccentric Rotation has been occurring, (this can suggest Bush Wear has occurred). The Worst case is to see evidence of Eccentric Rotation as the suggested cause of the Wear and Metal Powder (Probably Gold Colour) on the Thrust Pad (The Gold Dust is most likely dust from the Bush serving as a sacrificial part, and the dust is present as a result of abrasive contact in a Arid Dry interface. There is today, no need to use Metal Bush Liners, there are Thermoplastics that are totally suitable for this role. Additionally there the same Thermoplastic Materials and other options, readily available to replace a Steel Ball and Thrust Pad. The selection of replacement materials, will depend on how low the end user would like a 'coefficient of friction' to be achieved for the overall function and how fragile one would want their choice of materials to be, that are to be used within the bearing housing. Changing the condition of Arid Dry and creating a Lubricated Bearing Internal, is quite straight forward, there are many different Viscosities for the Lubricant to consider. Where the complication arises is the maintaining the Lubrication within the Bearing Housing, as many designs as their basic are not able to keep a Lubricant, there is a leaching that will occur from the sump local to the Thrust Pad.. Maintaining Hydrodynamic Lubrication (HL) between the parts interfacing is another challenge and it is not known which Bearing Housing are able to maintain this condition from Vintage through to the Latest Designs. The term (HL) is a Buzz Word for Bearing Design, but maintaining the condition throughout operation over a period is not easy to prove is in place, a alternative approach would be best to cultivate a periodical revisit to the needs for lubricant. . Cultivating a discipline to care for the regular maintenance of checking Lubrication would be an advisable practice in this matter. The overhauling a Bearing is getting more support daily, and there are skill sets making themselves available to assist with this task. It is not uncommon for certain Brands Models to see direct swap out replacement Bearing Housings on offer. Built using Thermoplastics at the Metal Spindle Contact Interfaces, as well as having the option to select other materials as well. A Bearing can also have Bespoke Bushes Machined to fit the radius dimension of the actual Spindle in use and the inner wall radius dimension of the Bearing Housing . I have Bearing Housings using the above Swap Out Method and also have original Bearing Housings Overhauled and with New Parts Machined in Thermoplastic to suit the radius dimensions of the parts retained and supersede the use of original metal parts. My experience is that it is quite possible and not too costly to achieve a Vintage TT, that can hold it own extremely closely to any TT up to 10 x it overall cost. I have put my 'go to TT' along side TT's owned by others, to which one has the retail value of £25K, and have seen the responses from the attendees at the demonstrations. At a Public Demonstration, Two Directors of a Company that produces TT's to a value of £50K, told me they felt compelled to return to my Demonstration Room and give me a appraisal, which pretty much stated how impressed they were, and it reminded them of listening to their customers set ups with the most expensive systems. SP10 Mkii's, most recently SP10 Mkii Kaneta and the SP10 R are now the main TT's within my HiFi Group. Prior to this the SME 20/12 with SME V was the Groups revered TT to aspire to. The Groups SME owner has even moved on, originally to a Garrard 401 and now with a Scheu Analogue TT, that has undergone a few mod's and is reported by the HiFi Group as an extremely good TT and very affordable to achieve. I have supplied a costing figure earlier that is realistic if the Donor TT is purchased with a prudent approach. Note: This post is not to promote the SP10, it is to make it known, a Vintage TT of any Drive Type, will need to be thought about with a few extra considerations and associated costs, if wanting the chosen model to be optimised for function. |
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@musicmatters1206 I have a SOTA Sapphire with an Origin Live Silver tonearm. I love it. I don't need to buy another table. If I need something better just upgrade to a a Kuzma 4 point 9. As it sits now it will take any cartridge I can throw at it up to $3k.
The Sapphire and the Nova are sister tables. The difference is the Nova has a stiffer sub chassis (plinth). Both tables have been offered with their vacuum platter. Currently it is a $1225 option on the Nova ($5050). So a Nova with a vacuum platter is $6275 without a tonearm.
The best way to order a turntable from SOTA is the old fashioned way...over the phone. You can ask about a Sapphire with a vacuum platter. You can also pick your tonearm and cartridge.
I can also say SOTA'S customer service is top notch. I also got to meet Donna Bodenet the owner. She didn't want to ship my turntable. I live less than an hour away. It was a beautiful Sunday drive. |
@musicmatters1206 I have no idea if VPI has replacement motors for the HW-40 but they probably do. It is the most expensive part of the HW-40 I am told. FWIW I have an arm lifter on mine that works great. It is the Technics one but I cannot remember the mode. It was not expensive. |
If a Vacuum Clamping of the LP is wanted as a wish list and a TT offering this as a built in design is extending beyond the desired budget. There is other options to achieve a Vacuum Clamped LP. I have had extended use of a loaned Audio Technica AT-666. It will Clamp and Hold Vacuum for the duration of a side of a LP. It does take a short process to achieve the Vacuum, but this period can be used in conjunction with a put in place with a Brush or Anti Static Treatment of the LP, so should not be to much addition to a pre play ritual. The AT-666 when used in a comparison with my selection of Platter Mats, has proved to a worthwhile addition, but is also the one that has produced the leanest presentation out of owned Metal Mats. In hindsight, I wish I had used the AT-666 as a stacked Platter Mat assembly as well to see what else could be extract from it. A AT-666 in VGC should cost approx' £150, I have bought a Pump for £30 and will eventually acquire the mat to add to my collection. The Design is available from other TT Brands as well, maybe having been produced by AT and rebranded. I know this has happened with AT Tonearms. The Link is a few years old and will answer most questions.
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@mijostyn THANK YOU that was an amazing response and a lot to think about. Having now looked at the Basis Signature 2500 with vacuum, i am going to have sleepless nights....any idea what they fetch in used market? Thanks |
This is turning out to be a great discussion, thanks everyone who has contributed. @paulgardner thanks for the suggestion - I saw the ovation at Expona in action and its stunning, but i thought it was outside my budget. If i recall correctly the were showing them with Sonus Faber speakers; i will scan used market. @re-lar-kvothe I really like the design and features of the 1601 but really curious if there is anything lacking sound-wise- I just cant find a place to audition it. I have a vintage Kyocera PL-701 semiautomatic with auto lift, what a convenience. The 1601 is below my budget (even with a great cart), and i am curious what i will miss compared to lets say a used HW-40 if i can get it for abt 10K. Any thoughts welcome. As i raised in my original post, I am surely not chasing the last 5%. Lastly, @fbgbill thanks for your HW-40 thoughts. Many people raise concerns abt potential future problems if motor goes bad - any idea if VPI stocks these motors? Thanks |
"The job of a turntable is to spin at the proper speed, prevent any spurious vibration from getting to the tonearm and sound like NOTHING. Anything it adds to "the sound" is distortion. The job of the tonearm is to hold the cartridge solidly in the proper orientation, move to two directions only and absorb any energy coming from the cartridge to prevent it from reflecting. It should also not have a "sound." The job of the cartridge is to translate the physical waveform on the record into an electrical waveform. It also should not have a "sound." It is the record that "sounds." A record playing machine should not add or subtract anything to the sound that is on the record. The design of turntables, tonearms and cartridges should be evaluated with this in mind. A record player is a vibration measuring device. The cartridge has no way of knowing where the vibration is coming from. It will turn any vibration into an electrical signal. The environment is loaded with vibrational energy and the turntable has to isolate the other parts of the system from all of it. Mass will not do it. If a turntable does not have a proper isolation suspension then it should be placed on one. It is much cheaper if one is built into the turntable. The Dohmann Helix is probably the epitome of a suspended turntable. The classic is the AR XA followed by the Thorens TD 125 and the Linn LP12. SOTA was the first to hang a turntable from springs instead of sitting it on top of springs, a much more stable design. Basis, SME and Avid followed suit. The RP 10 is a lot of turntable for the money. It is suspended on squishy rubber feet. It has a very stiff chassis and a great tonearm. Up from that price wise is the Sota Sapphire with a Kuzma 4 Point 9 then up the Sota line to the Cosmos. At this point we are already above the OP's budget but continuing onwards are the Avid Acutus and the SMEs. Next is Basis then the Dohmann Helix. Both Sota and Basis tables can be had with vacuum clamping. When a tonearm tracks over warps the groove velocity changes and causes pitch to waver which is painfully obvious and far exceeds the minimal wow and flutter most modern turntables have. Vacuum clamping is the best at flattening the record. Reflex clamping Like the SMEs, the Acutus, non vacuum Sotas and the Helix is second best. A record weight does little to nothing. Ring clamps are a PITA to use and an accident waiting to happen. Of the turntables I mentioned above only the Sotas use a magnetic thrust bearing which is an advantage in terms of noise and durability. It does exactly the same thing as Techdas's air bearing at a fraction of the complexity and cost."
Bravo! What an informative post that was. It's a pity that posts like yours above can't be pinned for future reference. |
I am a DD fan, have a pretty nice restored SP10mk2 with FR64S etc. With that in mind ( and caveat I am the NA representative ) you may wish to know about STST. Very mature DD design made to order for you. The Motus DQ ( sans suspension ) is in your price range. Has vanquished a lot of great contenders. Did I say you get to pick the finishes ? :)
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I like Technics EPA-500 Base with interchangeable arms better than the VPI. I just installed one for a friend, a wonderfully made design, easy VTA adjustment here it is with a straigt arm, fixed cartridge
simply loosen a screw (see ’lock’ in photo), arm slides out sideways and slip in an alternate arm wand, like this one with removable headshell. the arms have integral connectors, no messing around with delicate wires. you buy the arms separately
These fit the Technics Direct Drive units like this (another SP-15 in a Technics base) that have round armboards (interchangeable for other arms)
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The set up in the link can be achieved if prudent with the SP10 Mkii Motor Unit Purchase. All seen can be achieved for approx' £2500 as a higher end of the price range costing. This fee will allow for a refurbishment of the TT and a Chassis Recoating if desired. There is also a much more attractive finish in Black for the Chassis if wanted to be created, a Custom Spray Paint Shop is your friend. To help control costs have a look at some of Upcoming Paint Jobs, as this will reduce costs if a Paint is selected already accounted for to be used on a larger project. Lots of Monies left in the Budget for Arm > Cart' and a Mounting Sub Plinth System. There is an attraction in having an input into how a TT can look and being instrumental in choices made for how it can Perform. The SP10 Mkiii will cost more, but I and a few friends are sold on the Mkii. I don't know of many who would reject a VGC Mkii, and would prefer the Mkiii as the alternative to satisfy their needs.
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VPI with Uni-pivot Arm Arm wand with cartridge simply lift off the pin of the base (VTA) Another solution for quick change of cartridges, is any VPI with Uni-pivot Arm. Your main arm wand on the uni-pivot arm base. A spare arm waiting nearby. Simply disconnect the mini-din connector, lift the arm wand with cartridge off the uni-pivot. Place the spare arm with alternate cartridge on the uni-pivot, connect the mini-din connector. Steve has a big VPI he loves, with several arms waiting: to test/demonstrate cartridges, like the Mono one he just built for me. btw, he says new VPI are not as good as prior ones made when the father was in control. You could ask him more about that if a VPI appeals to you. the unipivot base
12" uni-pivot arm wand
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@yogiboy Wow, new SME Model 6 tables at $5999!!! I'd be surprised if they have any left in stock. Thanks for posting. |
This is tangential to what the OP has posted. But because I am primarily a streamer, I decided to sell my VPI unipivot Prime Signature with Ortofon 2M Black, ADS, big custom dust cover, and Wayne’s Audio outer ring. I wanted to reduce my box count and take a little cost out of the vinyl rig, but still have it be nice. So I sold the above rig and replaced it with a Technics SL-1210G with a Soundsmith Carmen mk2. The Technics was easy to setup. Happy with the change so far. |
Some VPI’s can have two tonearms. Steve at VAS knows which models if you like VPI’s .................................................................................... Here’s a custom case with a Technics SP-15 (3 speeds); Two arms,
I bought a SP15 in factory base at Harvey’s long ago, gave it to my friend, Wonderfully accurate, solid. Check SP15 specs against any other Technics including modern models, it’s one of the best. https://vintagetechnics.audio/turntables.php |
I would take a hard look at Dr Feickert. The Woodpecker would fall in line with your budget with an inexpensive arm. Then you can upgrade the arm as you see fit. I landed on the Volare and am very happy. My endgame is to swap out the current arm for a Kuzma 4point 9”. This full package is attainable in your budget. |
I encourage at least two tonearms, one with a removable headshell. And then a SUT with at least two selectable inputs, PASS for MM, and optional settings for MC cartridges, thus only 1 phono input needed for any tonearm. Best Stereo on main arm, Mono ready to go on second arm. Second arm removable headshell for quick change to other cartridges, yours or a friends. Second arm, easy height adjustment for VTA, and if cartridges of various heights are involved. ........................................... I've seen some two arm tables all; assembled, I'll post some later when I have more time if you are interested in the idea. I personally helped a friend mount two Micro-Seiki Arms on this wonderful Luxman PD444
................................................. We know what we have best. Me, personally, I couldn't be happier with mine. Importantly, I have the skills and tools to modify, mount tonearms which makes a big difference is a solution like mine. I put my vintage TT together with help here. Bit by Bit, Plinth and Spinner phase 1. 3 tonearms selected separately, also with advice here. All in, except cartridges, $5,000. I started with two arms, and later squeezed a compact 3rd arm on, so I have Long Arm with MC, any other, and Mono. Mine is Vintage JVC Victor TT81 DD Quartz Lock Spinner in a JVC Victor Two Armboard Plinth CL-P2, seen here https://www.audiogon.com/systems/9511?_gl=1*bdv68k*_ga*NjQzNzE3MDA1LjE2NjQyODIxNDk.*_ga_SR0PMVVEN1*MTY3MTg5MDUwNi4yMDAuMS4xNjcxODkwODkwLjYwLjAuMA.. |
I’m not sure about an endgame table but my SOTA Star Sapphire with vacuum hold down and an SME V arm is probably my last table. Once setup it’s rock solid, quiet and free from footfalls and extraneous noise. Add the SME arm which also is easy to setup and it’s set it and forget, just excellent sound that still rivals more expensive tables of today. SOTA has redone tables with all the upgrades on there website, take a look. I do also have a VPI Aries 2 table with an SME 309 arm which is a fine sounding unit, maybe not as good as the SOTA but still an awesome table. Plenty of VPI’s on the used marked too so choices are plentiful. |
Simply put…buy what you like the looks of and make sure it is absolutely isolated from vibration. If you’re on anything other than a concrete floor consider a solid wall mounted shelf…perfectly level.
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Korf has their new arm on pre purchase.
I would not worry too much. However a lot of people are running pricy power conditioners that among other things sometimes have isolation transformers. By running a 230v to 110v transformer my system seemed to be pretty immune to a lot of power supply issues. I know that on the Sota they have an external supply… And maybe others do as well.
Maybe it only needs an arm? Perhaps an arm with more mass is needed, or maybe a high compliance cart would suit it? The arm+cart is one beastly combo, but the table is generally separate and not part of the bass. Maybe some suspended tables affect the bass…?? Personally I would be optimising the arm before the table, but I am totally guessing at your table. |
By considering Vintage TT's and as already suggested, the Technics SP 10 Mk ii or Mk iii. There is a lot to be had in term of performance for the outlay, and there is plenty of support at hand for this Brand and especially these two Models in both the US and Europe. My own Mk ii is with a Custom Paint Coating to the Chassis costing £200. Finished in the Blackest of Blacks with a Multiple Coating of Lacquers, with a Polished Finish. If visual appeal is important there is not much more to be desired if black is one's preference. There is no shortage of Plinth Designs available for this model, a Web Search will reveal the works being carried out. I feel a SP10 Mk ii fully overhauled, with a New Applied Coating to the Chassis, 'if desired'. Mounted in a Bespoke Plinth will be achievable for not too far from half your budget if donor model is prudently sourced. I can advise on this via email if interested in where to search out a donor. A SP10 Mkii or Mkiii are a very sought after TT, in both the US and Europe with again in both the US and Europe, excellent servicing facilitation seen on offer from a variety of sources. Having the Power Supply concern resolved is a minimum concern if changing from 110V to 230V 60Hz. Well looked after Models hold their Value and are Investments that are appreciating in Value and sell quickly when the need may arise. As the TT is to be a Keeper, the selling on is not really a short-term concern. I have been careful/prudent and have a substantial appreciation in the value, when compared to what my Refurbed and Modified Mk ii cost. For the record the SP10 Mkii, in a Refurbed / Modified condition is the Model that finished my regular usage of Overhauled / Modified Idler Drives. Idler Drives finished my regular usage of Belt Drives many many years past. |
I use a Thorens TD-1601 with an Ortofon Cadenza Blue running through a Hegel V-10. To me this sounds fantastic. The arm lifts and the unit shuts down after the album side is done. The other feature that is/was important to me is the easily adjustable tonearm height, VTA. I can run any cartridge and keep the appropriate verticle tracking. I had a Rega 8 and it was an excellent TT but I hated shimming it when swapping cartridges. I sold it and purchased the 1601 and never looked back. |