Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling
I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!
Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.
That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )
After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…
I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.
You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…
http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables
Enjoy,
Wig
Going to give this a go. Looking at the KLE plugs, that little spade connector tab looks like the absolute worst design I have seen. How do you get a secure mechanical connection with that! You are relying on a bridge of solder as a connector. Ughhhh. I will use the Furutech 111g, Progold the VH copper, and secure directly with a set screw. Will keep you posted. |
That tab is a great connector and design having made at least 150 sets of ICs with those plugs. The Furutech will look better and feel higher quality, however they will not sound as good. I have done the listening tests. Contact me and I will give you some tips. A joy to work with! These plugs do not editorialize the sound. |
For some, those tabs look very fragile, but they actually allow for a much better joint than trying to solder a wire to a hefty neutral barrel like those on the Furutech RCA’s and they are so much easier connect a wire to than trying to get a wire down the center of the signal pin if re-attaching a previously used RCA But they do allow you to apply the heat under the tab while holding the wire on top of the tab for a perfect solder joint. You can see the solder melt right into the wire & tab You do need to secure that little plug though - I insert mine into a old RCA socket that is held in a vice - that leaves both hands free But that’s just my opinion after having reused my Harmony RCA’s many times. As for sound quality - I’m with @grannyring - they are the best sounding RCA plug I have ever used. Regards - Steve |
I certainly wouldn't challenge you guys--you have far more experience than I ever will. I have no doubt those little tabs heat up quickly and afford a good solder joint. My OCD kicks in however when solder is the primary conductor in this type of design. The Furutech 111 plug uses low mass high quality gold plated pure copper for both signal and return. The set screw is on the both legs as well, so no soldering the return to a high mass barrel. It really is a nice design-check it out. |
I’m with @grannyring But the other thing to consider is the type solder you use... - I have recommended WBT 4% silver solder in the past - but I now prefer eutectic solders because they seem to flow more easily, become solid very quickly and make a very robust joint using less solder - CARDAS makes a eutectic solder, but I have not tried it - yet The Furutech 111 plug does look very nice and easy to install for people that do not like soldering or for those who believe clamping is a better method of fastening But for me - the Absolute Harmony RCA is the only plug on my cables Regards - Steve |
When building ICs with these KLE Innovation plugs consider the following aids and techniques. - use WBT 4% silver solder. I like the leaded one better. Just wash your hands after and use a fan/filter to keep the smoke away from your nostrils. - use an old piece of gear or some $10 Goodwill CD player etc... to plug your KLEI male connector into. This makes it so much easier to solder. The jack is now hands free secured and won’t budge! - make sure you have a good soldering iron. Preferably one that offers variable heat settings. Set it to 800 - 850 degrees. Yes this hot. You want to get in and out fast.....2 seconds. - tin the bare VH Audio wire. I find it not necessary to tin the forked tab. The 18 gauge VH Audio wire should rest inside the fork portion of the KLEI tab with a little bit of the stripped wire protruding past (over) the forked tab. I like to place a little weight onto the wire a few inches down from the from the solder point. This holds the stripped wire down with pressure against the forked tab. I rest a set of pliers over the wire to accomplish this. Time to solder. Get in and out in 2 seconds or so with your very hot soldering iron. Use very little solder. Just enough to assure a strong connection. You don’t want to see blobs or areas where the solder is thick. |
Thanks for the above pointers gentleman. I have been listening to my very short 17" IC's using 18g VH copper, single run on both legs, for the last day. Furutech 111g plugs with ProGold, set screw termination. Was skeptical at first but these really are nice. Compared to the Supra EFF-1 cables I have, these seem more dynamic, detailed, less confused sound. Bass has more authority. A very balanced and natural sound. Thanks for sharing this info guys. A great value, fun project. One concern. These cables can vibrate like a spring. That can't be good. Makes me wonder if some cotton tubing on the signal conductor might dampen this tendency. |
@twoleftears - the Mil Spec wire used for the neutral is stranded and the strands will cross the signal wire at a less acute angle in one direction, as opposed to the opposite direction. So which way is clockwise vs. counter clockwise depends on your "perspective" If you are looking down the winding of a finished cable from the end, then the coil rotates in a CLOCKWISE direction as it winds away from you. vs. If you are looking at how the wire is wound around the signal wire then it is wound in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE direction If you are using a double stranded solid signal conductor then twist the wires in a clockwise direction if you used a single solid wire for both signal and neutral, then likely the direction of the coil would not matter Here’s a link to some close-up pics - I use the term Counter Clockwise on this page for the correct direction http://www.image99.net/blog/files/b4d5249616a56bdabfd28b5580db6cec-79.html Regards - Steve |
A quick update on mains plugs... I’ve never really been picky with plugs - performance is all that matters - so I buy the basic Sonarquest silver plated copper plugs with the plastic housing. But after seeing @wig ’s very nice carbon fiber plugs on the stunning black/white power cable he built - I decided to give them a try. OUCH !!! - the Sonarquest Silver Plated Carbon Fibre plugs on Ebay are $130US a pair (you might find them for $120/pair) https://www.ebay.ca/itm/GK-Grade-SONARQUEST-Carbon-Fiber-Silver-Plated-Audio-Grade-US-power-plug-IEC... So I looked around for a more "frugal" solution... I found this set for $40US/pair - but they are NOT silver plated copper https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Rhodium-Plated-US-Power-Plug-Power-Connector-IEC-Plug/202679851071?hash=item2f30a9183f:g:jCoAAOSw8oFX0Qz1 BUT - the regular Sonarquest silver plated plugs are only $33.50/Pair https://www.ebay.ca/itm/SONAR-QUEST-CRYO-Ag-Audio-Grade-Silver-plated-IEC-plug-US-main-plug-sonarquest/181355696313?hash=item2a39a450b9:g:J~oAAOxyhXRTKcHi So if you buy both Silver plated Sonarquest + the Carbon fiber plugs and swap the barrels over - you save $56.50 US per pair over the $130 version But would the carbon fiber barrels fit the basic Sonarquest plugs ??? - the answer is YES ! - they do indeed Granted - you now have some spare plugs on your hands - but if you are like me, I always have some cables that can use them - e.g. like a second or third audio system :-) How good is the vendor Enjoyhifi? - the plugs arrived in Canada after only 9 days - normally takes 3-4 weeks from other vendors in China So why do I fuss with better looking plugs after all this while? - I have some Helix cables that I use for my guitar amps that require a more robust clamping system and the barrel on the carbon fiber plugs are about 1/2" longer, so they do a better job of clamping the cable further back. But they do look sweet on my Audio System Helix power cables as well :-) What I really like about these plugs is the section that houses the cable clamp unscrews, so you can easily remove that additional part of the clamp assembly provided for thinner power cables - PLUS - it also makes it really easy to install. I also tried this plug and it also works with the Sonaquest plug, but it’s not quite as fancy looking :-). - BTW: I cannot vouch for the Krell Authenticity https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Audio-Grade-Rhodium-plated-US-Power-Plug-Male-Female-Connector-hifi/202679851105?hash=item2f30a91861:g:b60AAOSwJRxbPHsZ Here’s hoping someone can take advantage of these savings Regards - Steve |
@aniwolfe - thanks for the link - I’ll tuck that one away for future reference. Parts Connexion is one of those places that you have to at least visit, to see what deals they are currently promoting. For Canadians like me, it’s often cheaper elsewhere because their shipping charges and taxes applied sometimes negate the effectiveness of the the deal But delivery is faster. The prices in the eBay links above were free delivery and taxes included - but it can take up to 4 weeks to deliver. The vendor Enjoyhifi is much faster than other vendors I have tried. Cheers - Steve |
@rx8man - and let’s not forget @grannyring - who brought us the Schroeder "Double Shotgun" version :-) If you haven’t tried (what I refer to as) the Double-Double Interconnect, see my Web Site http://www.image99.net/blog/files/4127b5fe2694586e383104364360373b-74.html I cannot say this often enough - my sincere thanks go to everyone that has contributed in the development of these cables. It is a most excellent exchange of ideas, approaches and observations between many individuals, across many countries, on a large variety of components and systems. Without this cooperative effort we would not have such great DIY cables My Thanks - to everyone ! Regards - Steve |
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@corelli - WRT Is this wire non-directional?If you mean... - will the wire sound different when connected in one direction as opposed to being connected in the opposite direction? - then I would have to say that I have never attempted to maintain wire directionality in the signal or the helix, i.e. during the build process But I did try connecting a pair of IC’s in the various L/R channel permutations and observed no difference. NOTE: I do use different colors of heat shrink at each end of the cables so I can maintain a specific direction once the cables are burned in. Perhaps the effects of wire directionality are far less apparent with the Helix Geometry, i.e. when compared to cables having more "convectional" geometries. Regards - Steve |
Thank you so much for all your work in this matter - I got inspired and decided to join the bandwagon. I will build power chord with Viborg plugs, Chris VenHaus Airlok copper 18ga wire and Duelund 600VA wire. Now, I live in Europe with 230V mains. So I conclude current is lower and I will be able to safe on diameter needed for the same power (half the Amps), right? Also, I have read that running neutral and ground in opposite helix turn might be beneficial. However, does this not make the assembly more difficult and the final cable will be less stable? I very much welcome your sensible comments. Best, Bruno |
@ Bruno I also live in EU and still think you should use min 2x 18awg for the hot/life and 2x 16awg for the neutral + ground. I use this even for my low power LPS Shanti for my AlloUSBridge Signature. If you’re using a high power amp it could be beneficial to use 3x 18awg. I have ordered the SonarQuest Plugs directly from the original China Website and it was flawless regarding delivery, less than 10 days, no Importtax nor addition VAT and shipping cost included. So for 38€ I got IEC and Schuko plug with silverplating in clear housing. I prefer the clear housing, as you can see the better how the cable is fitted into the IEC clamping. |
Bruno - Winding the neutral and ground in opposite directions will complicate the build process and will make the cable much thicker.
But - Will it make an audible difference? If you wound the ground around the Live wire and then would the Neutral wire(s) around the Ground/live wire assembly in opposite directions it would provide a greater gap between the Live wire and the Neutral wire. This should provide some benefit. However, the power cables I have made are all 120v and not 230v, so the higher voltage may cause more interference., which means the additional space would be an advantage. Could you please post a link to the site where you read this - I would be very interested in seeing related information before providing a definitive YES or NO answer Many Thanks. - Steve |
Bruno - just re-reading your post and was wondering which of the wires you mentioned do you intend to intend to use for the LIVE conductor, and which wire you intend to use for the neutral and ground wires? Either the VH Audio wire or Duelund will be a good choice for the LIVE conductor.. For a 230v cable - if you are using the VH Audio wire for the LIVE I would recommend using a cotton sleeve over the LIVE conductor for added safety I would NOT recommend either of these two wires for the neutral or ground conductors because they are not robust enough to maintain the helix coil effectively and the VH Audio wire will not withstand any prolonged handling activity. Mil-spec is still my wire of choice for Neutral. I would even use Mil-Spec for the ground because of it's superior ability to maintain the helix coil shape and it's tough Teflon insulation Regards - Steve |
Thank you very much for your answers, mawe and Steve. @Steve, actually I got this idea of using opposite helix directions for neutral and ground from you website. http://www.image99.net/blog/files/b4d5249616a56bdabfd28b5580db6cec-79.html However, after re-reading, I realize I may have misinterpreted. The mixture of two winding directions is not described actually. I was planning to use Chris Airlok wire for the LIVE conductor (three runs), and admittedly the Duelund wire for the neutral and ground. But I can see that this stranded wire may not be suited to maintain the helix winds. The thing is that shipping charges from Canada to Europe are prohibitive, especially compared to the cost of the Mil-Spec wire. Now, I am not sure whether there is an European alternative to the Mil-Spec wire. |
@ Bruno, an alternative to the Milspec wire would be the Jantzen Audio 2x2,5sqmm or 3x 1,3sqmm copper silverplated PTFE wire, which you can order from audiophonics.fr. There you can order as well the Neotech solid core OCC 18AWG in PTFE. Much more cost effective than the VH Audio wire. I am a Long Time User of VH Audio wires, mainly the solid silver in cotton for interconnects. But shipping cost, Tax and VAT make them really expensive when landed at your place. This is the reason, why I swopped to the french site. Their prices are the most attractive in Europe. For a power cord I think the Neotech is as good as the VH Audio wire, specially in PCs as the solid PTFE insulation is more robust. I put the 3 runs 18AWG Neotech in a 6mmx0,6 Teflon tube (ordered from Conrad) and this into a 10mm PVC tube to keep a certain space to the outer neutral coil. The coiling obviously keeps best with solid core wires. Therefore you can use for the neutral as well some solid core wires. For ground wire I used standard yellow/Green 1,0 or 1,5sqmm solid core wire from the Home Depot market. |
I use a dissected eupen GNLM for neutral and earth. They both have emc/ferrit powder around their tinned strands that acts as a rfi filter for the live wire. It really works. No stray voltages, no rfi, low induction. Pitch black background and oomph in spades. https://www.ebay.nl/itm/10m-Eupen-Kabel-Typ-LP-GNLM-3G2-5-Audio-Line-DIY-Netzkabel-Low-Pass-Netzfilt... For live I use a (dissected) Ramm Amadeus 5 mk2 https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/cable-metre-cables-hautparleur/ramm-audio-amadeus-5-mk2-speaker-cable... Sometimes I use for 2x16 awg, sometimes 4x16 awg (power amp), and 4x16awg in starquad for 2 prong equipment. Oyaide C-004 on IEC and Viborg 511R on Schuko. Some teflon tape, heatshrink and techflex. Very happy with the results. I am done with power cord tweaking. |
I've just heard back from my European contact and he endorses a stranded Silver plated wire from Jantzen Audio and provided the following links https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/006-0051-jantzen-speaker-cable-13awg.html https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/hook-up-wires/jantzen-audio-hewptfe-fil-cablage-cuivreargent-25mm2noir-p-8071.html?search_query=jantz&fast_search=fs https://www.blackdotaudio.eu/jantzen-silver-plated-copper-wire-speaker-cable-awg-13-black-1-metre-p-998.html He has compared it to the Mil-Spec wire from eBay and he prefers the sound of the Jantzen wire. So much so, he is currently in the process of converting all of his Mil-spec helix to the Jantzen wire. He believes the Chryo-treated mil-spec wire from Take Five Audio is of a higher quality than the non-Chryo'd Mil-spec available in Europe. Regards - Steve |
Can anyone throw some light on this conundrum please - it's bugging me :-) I decided to replace the Live conductor inside my power distribution box. - the neutral wires are the same 2 x 12 gauge Mil-Spec wire I use in the power cables - the wire being replaced was 12 gauge Duelund Tinned Copper.with PolyCast insulation - the wire replacing the Duelund is 4 x 18 gauge Mundorf Solid Silver/Gold with cotton sleeve insulation The length of the wire is approximately 12" - I was very surprised to hear any improvement at all - but I observed an audible improvement in dynamic response. The method of connection of the wire inside the distribution box was the same - only the actual wire changed. Here are the different wires I use in the cables connecting the electrical pathway... - Duelund Tinned copper - let's call it wire type "A" - Solid copper VH Audio - lets call it wire type "B" - Solid Silver VH Audio - let's call it wire type "C" - Solid Silver/;gold MUNDORF - let's call it wire type "D" - And the neutral throughout the entire system is 2 x 12 gauge Silver plated Mil-Spec and all cables have the Helix Geometry The change occurred only in the electrical pathway of the Source components, which consists of... - an extension cable - 11 ft of wire type "A" - a power cable to the distribution box- 5 ft of wire type "B" - Distribution box - 1 ft of wire type "D" - previously 1 ft of wire type "A" - a power cable - 4 ft of wire type "C" SO - originally I thought that Dynamic performance was related to the conductivity of of the various wires in the electrical pathway i.e. how fast the power propagates through the wire If that was the case, then the "limiting factor" should be the wire used in the extension cord - wire type "A" However, replacing just a small piece of wire type "A in the distribution box with wire type "D" , i.e. a wire that has better conductivity properties, resulted in improved dynamic response, even though the wire in the electrical pathway preceding it is slower. So my question is - why does that small piece of wire make any difference at all? Any thoughts would be appreciated Cheers |
@tomic601 - A friend of mine made a 24 ft long Helix cable He actually used a 24ft long piece of COAX - stripped the outer sleeve and the shielding. - wound transformer wire around the outside of the insulation for the helix coil - added RCA's - not sure if he used Harmony RCA's He was very impressed with the resulting sound, but it took him and his wife to fabricate the cable. Hope that helps |
My experience in general with cables, but more on ICs than PCs is, that the lower the dielectric of the insulation, the more “open” and “dynamic” it sounds. Could be the reason, why you “hear” more dynamic after replacing the cable with cotton sleeves. I think, the VH Audio silver cable in cotton sleeve is one of the most open and dynamic wire and can only be “topped” with bare wire in an oversized cotton sleeve, where the contact area is even more reduced.However, on PCs I think the conductor material is not that important. Using solid core, ideally not bigger than 18AWG ( and than multiple of them to get total required size) twisted in low dielectric insulation with minimum contact area and a good connection is key. |
@williewonka, 'conundrum' the Extension Cord is obvious weak link in the chain because of Voltage Drop Concerns (contact points etc.). A dynamic gain is a gain ... suggesting the use of 'Type D' Cable as a replacement for existing One) Cable 'Type A' and Two) 'Type B' the lesser of the three cables. Tinned Copper seems to me to be an Ideal choice though ... |
@mawe - thanks - I was NOT taking into consideration the implications associated with the number of strands and the width of each strand, together with the dielectric constant of the insulation - I was merely looking at the relative conductivity of the metal in each wire type in the electrical pathway. @rego - thanks also - I forgot to take into consideration the impact of the connectors and the voltage drop across each "section" of the electrical pathway. Thanks guys - much appreciated Regards - Steve |
Hi Steve Thank you for posting European alternatives to the MilSpec wire, very much appreciated. I believe you are not alone with your observation that short pieces of different metals inserted to a longer wire change the overall sound. For example, this is how Franck Tchang from ASI produces his interconnects and loudspeaker cables.. In the meantime, I have built and installed my first helix power cable according the posted recipe, from wall to the LessLoss firewall distributor. I have also experimented with ferrites (from 1 up to 14 pieces) that snugly fit around the live wires, and I could replicate what has been posted elsewhere: they suck out the life of the music. |
QUICK UPDATE: I’ve just replaced the live conductor in my 11 ft Helix Geometry extension cable, with a 12 gauge solid copper wire from Neotech - the wire replaced was 12 gauge Duelund tinned copper with polycast insulation I purchased the wire from HiFi collective... https://www.hificollective.co.uk/wire/soct-neotech-solid-core-copper-wire.html "Neotech`s SOCT type wire is 99.999% high purity UP-OCC copper solid core wire, sheathed in red, heat resistant Teflon. Can be used for speaker wire, mains cable and general hook up wire" I removed the Teflon insulation and inserted the bare wire into a cotton sleeve to reduce the Dielectric Constant to around 1.3 - down from 2.1 of teflon The wire is quite stiff, i.e. compared to 4 strands of the 18 gauge Solid copper from VH Audio that I have used in other power cables, but since the description states it is suitable for power cables I assume it is pliable enough to take some reasonable amount of flexing without breaking The immediate results were quite noticeable - improved clarity and dynamics - improved control and a little deeper bottom end. Now I’m not about to replace the live conductors in my heavier duty cables, but if anyone is constructing new power cables, this wire works out to be a little more affordable and I believe it would perform a little better than the wire from VH Audio, due to it being a single conductor. My reasoning: - The wire from VH Audo is 18 gauge, so it requires 4 strands to make a 12 gauge live conductor. From this link: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html - 12 gauge single core current carrying capacity = 34 amps - 12 gauge 4-6 core current carrying capacity = 16 amps So there should be improvements in the handling of transient peaks. Initially, I only used stranded wires, for improved flexibility, but it is quite evident that solid wire is superior, i.e. provided you take reasonable care when flexing (no tight 90 degree bends) Regards - Steve. |
Haven't visited this thread in a while so unaware of IC recipe. I will have to build some double barrel IC's with the vh audio airlock. I built my first Helix pc perhaps a year ago, easily heard upgrade over Shunyata Python and Vh audio Airsines I was using. At this point I'm using Helix pc on every major component in system, everyone added only further upgrades sound quality. Originally, I was using Duelund AC rated on hot, started noticing a bit of darkening, rounded bass, highs rolled. Replaced Duelund with Vh audio airlock, lightened up on bass, opened up top end a bit, sound a bit more refined, greater resolution. Whether built with Duelund or Airlock, the most noticeable improvement heard over many other pc's I've tried over the years is the amazing transparency, never heard pc's sound so open. A couple of differences in my recipe are cryo versions of Parts connexion connex ac plugs and bare wire attachment at ac plug. I use two runs of airlock in source components, four runs for tube amps. Thanks to Steve for a really great diy recipe, easily best diy recipe for anything audio related I've experienced in many a year in audio. Having auditioned many high end pcs over the years, I can't really recall any I wanted to use on entire system. These are so natural in timbre, tonality, really very little coloration. |
Received a Helix power cord today, constructed as follows: 6ft with 20amp Furutech CF IEC and a 15amp Male CF (Like Furutech) 5 Strands of Copper Solid Core VH Audio. Black Wire Coil with Single White Ground. Plugs from a Maestro Duplex into an Inakustik AC-3500P, the main PC for my rig. Sound from top to bottom is even quieter and more startlingly real. These Helix cables are seriously off the hook. |
@sns and @rx8man - thanks very much for posting your helix experience - it’s great to hear what others are trying and to see that the helix design is getting some very positive feedback from even more Audiogon members. But wait - there is another Power Cord Update !!! - you just had to know this one was coming :-) As per my posting above RE: my 11 ft extension cable - I tried the same modification on the power cable from the 11 ft extension cable to my amp - so now I have 12 gauge solid core Neotech OCC copper from the outlet to my amp I took the same approach - I replaced the 4 strands of 28 gauge Vh Audio solid copper with a single strand of the 12 gauge Neotech wire. - I removed the teflon insulation and replaced it with Cotton sleeve (see previous post) This really opened up the performance of my Bryston B135 integrated amp to new levels of detail - larger image in all dimensions - more focused image - better low end control and details - improved clarity - better dynamics The improvements were barely noticeable immediately, but really started to improve after about 2 days 24/7 playback (I don’t have a burner) The PC seemed to have settled after about 5 days playing - I haven’t noticed any further improvement However - i am not sure this level of improvement will be achieved using separates, since I believe most of these improvements are achieved within the pre-amp section of the B135 and not so much in the two power amps. FYI... - the B135 is in fact three separate amplifiers in a single case - each has it’s own power supply (3 separate transformers, smoothing capacitors etc...) I believe @wig is updating one of his power cables to this latest development - I look forward to reading his feedback I am planning the same update to the power cable that attaches the extension cable to the power distribution box, which distributes power to my two source components. Just waiting on the Neotech wire from the UK - I will post my findings in about 2-3 of weeks. It will be very interesting :-) Regards - Steve |
Quick Update on PC: I converted my 4 runs of VH Audio 18 Ga Solid OCC to the Neotech 12 Ga Solid OCC 5 days ago and removed them from the cooker last night to discern any notable differences. Typically, I burn-in my PC on the cable cooker for 7 days and then run them another 4-5 days on a refrigerator to get them in their sweet-spot... The coating on my Neotech was left intact. My early observations before complete burn-in is exactly what Steve has mentioned, better focus, improved dynamics/low level details, wider sound stage and just more composed in rendering shadings, depth and my system seems to flow easier... I also noticed while cooking the Neotech 12ga Cabling that my cooker is significantly cooler than any cable I have ever cooked. My Neotech was purchased from Sonic Craft. Should have both conditioner and amp PC cabling integrated into my system by next weekend : ) Wig |
@wig re:... The coating on my Neotech was left intact.Are you referring to the Teflon insulation? If the answer is Yes - are you planning on trying the Neotech wire, replacing the Teflon insulation with a Cotton sleeve? FYI - all of my solid state components run between 5-7 degrees Celsius cooler with Helix Power cables Thanks for the update - Steve |
@wig - your observations WRT any improvements observed when you replace the Teflon with Cotton sleeve will be most valuable. Based on my own observations with similar power related approaches, I think you should experience a discernable improvement in clarity, image definition and artist separation/focus. As always, your efforts and observations are most valuable and are very much appreciated. Regards - Steve |
