Bang for buck, what are the best high-current power cords for power amps/sub amps? Seems an obvious question but I haven't found it in the AG archives.
The whole debate about AC power cords is ridiculous. Same with speaker wire. It’s ridiculous. If it can carry enough power to the device, it is adequate, and using a more expensive cable isn’t going to make a damn bit of difference. Sorry, but all of you are just bullshiting yourselves. There been many blind test done, and nobody can tell the difference, and I’m sure none of you are any different. Perception is reality. By the way, I can afford any cable for any component that’s available. So it’s not a case of Envy with me, it’s just a case of understanding how electronics and electricity works . It’s for that reason that well-regarded companies like McIntosh don’t really believe in expensive cables. They sell them because they can make money on them but if you talk to the people in charge there, they too think it’s a farce.
I wonder WHO this is? Some folks are a little thick.. I guess he makes it up as he/she goes.
"Mcintosh don't really believe". LOL was that a direct quote from Jethro?
I've never heard a Mac repairman or salesman say that.. EVER.. They recommend GOOD cabling, plain and simple...
50 years ago they did some silly test with regards to "current" speaker cable production vs what was available at the time.. There was nothing ELSE to compare it with.. SO lamp AC cable was just as good as Speaker cable... NOT so now.. Thing have changes.. A LOT..
The problem 50 years ago was every cop, fireman, airplane, ham and CB radio, on the planet, could key up and blast through your cheap speaker cables, now there is no RFI around me at all. The cable construction is better than ever..
Cable is Cable is a silly way of thinking.. No need to spend a fortune, but you better pay attention to what your trying to do. Shielding is a biggie.. I don't use it if I can get away with it..
HMM:
@millercarbon that is just a stupid post dude. Just ignorant.
Budget high current, why not take 2 or 3 freebie power cords, cut the ends and solder em all into one? Wouldn't that be three times the current? With four or 5 you could get lots of current. How much current are we talking anyway
I don't think that's stupid at all. Isn't that what hi end braided cables are doing, taking individual strands and combining them to present a heavier gauge wire? I'm really curious why would this be stupid at all? It wouldn't work, it would create a black hole why?
Have you read the reviews of the RCA MFF adapters that combine two separate RCA into one to reduce resistance? They actually get pretty positive feedback.
I keep looking at the old 240V dryer power chord that they replaced when the old dryer failed. Heavy gauge wire and 4 strands. Since I'm a believer that the common neutral causes noise in the system for the price of connectors it would be a very robust high current Power Cable combining the four strands into two and I believe that both multiple standard or 240V cable would improve the sound over the stock molded cables that come with unit.
No one was debating here a question was asked and we answered.Your post looks as if you are looking for a fight.
So what is wrong with wanting a power cord that is better constructed? I know some make claims of better sound imaging and bla bla bla. I have replaced the power chord on every device (TV or Audio) in our home for a higher quality after market solution that is moderately priced (under $200.00) and for sensitive equipment (susceptible to external EMI, Noise) with double shielded PC.
That is our choice but to call people idiots for buying the BS? Not buying the BS just want better than lamp shade wire for my $15K speakers and $7500 Integrated.
You want to use cheap minimum spec OE cable and lamp cable that is fine go for it, just don’t call us suckers and idiots.
You made some friends with that post.
knowitall12 posts11-02-2021 10:33pmThe whole debate about AC power cords is ridiculous. Same with speaker wire. It’s ridiculous. If it can carry enough power to the device, it is adequate, and using a more expensive cable isn’t going to make a damn bit of difference. Sorry, but all of you are just bullshiting yourselves. There been many blind test done, and nobody can tell the difference, and I’m sure none of you are any different. Perception is reality. By the way, I can afford any cable for any component that’s available. So it’s not a case of Envy with me, it’s just a case of understanding how electronics and electricity works . It’s for that reason that well-regarded companies like McIntosh don’t really believe in expensive cables. They sell them because they can make money on them but if you talk to the people in charge there, they too think it’s a farce.
Nothing really - they will deliver power to a component and probably do a better job than the standard cables most components ship with
However, if you are looking for a cable that is capable of improving the performance of a component then you have to look deeper than the nice red sleeve and "fancy looking" connectors.
What’s Wrong...
they use OFC copper, which is OK, but no where near as good as UP-OCC copper
They employ a conventional wires and cable geometry - this actually creates noise within the cable itself
They have Rhodium plated connectors - no info as to what the metal under the plating is - for best results I use Silver plated copper connectors from Sonarquest. Their IEC connectors grip like a vice
they are shielded. Cables without shielding are more detailed and open sounding
they have a "rubberized" outer sleeve, which reduces overall clarity
Compared to other better designed cables their level of performance would not "cut the mustard".
But if $32.90 is a person’s budget I would probably recommend they wait until they can afford something significantly better, such as the entry level Zevfino cable
I started my cable journey with many cables just like this one and now I have some cable knowledge I realize how much I could have saved in time, effort and money by learning about cable design first.
I now rate my cables every bit as important as my components
@williewonka I assume you still prefer your Helix to the Zavfino?
I rely on feedback from other members that have tried and compared the HELIX DIY to other cable brands and to date the Helix DIY seems to be standing up very well against the branded products they have been compared too
So until I hear otherwise the Helix DIY are still my go-to cables
However, I do keep my eyes open for those brands that get rave reviews from Agon members AND which employ interesting cable fabrication methods, cable geometries and approaches.
The Zevfino line was recently highlighted by a member - I then looked at the web site and Zevfino provide in-depth details of their construction approach.
they use UP-OCC copper, which would make their cables very dynamic
they use a tight perfect pitch twist to construct the conductors, which should result is a lower noise floor
they use Cotton filler insulation which should also help reduce noise
Basically - Zavfino have put a lot more design effort into their fabrication techniques than most other brands AND they seem reasonably priced for such a complex build.
Many members are not into DIY cables for many reasons, So I try to provide some feedback as to what brands are available in the marketplace that I feel might provide a noticeable improvement based on their details design.
Right now, for branded products, I tend to recommend...
Nordost - because I have heard the improvements they provide
In-Akustik - because they have one of the most advance and effective cable geometries I have seen
Zavfino - because they have combined great quality design, excellent copper, interesting geometry and competitive pricing
This list also reflects what I believe their level of performance that the three brands will provide and their cost.
So if you want a more budget oriented cable. the Zevfino will offer a very good performing cable for a more modest price.
Step up to the In-Akustik for lower noise floor with improved details
and if you want the best performance, then a TOTL Nordost should provide that
Apologies for such a complex answer to a seemingly simple question.
I made my own with Furutec connectors and bulk cable. The other items like shrink wrap and cable covering came from Amazon. I was able to make custom lengths between my power conditioner and each unit. It was a fun project. I estimated that each cable cost about $150. FWIW.
Miller's right. An ordinary power wire will pass all the current required.
My Krells can draw nearly 2kW from the wall. Each. The wires supplied by Krell are fine. Besides the amps have huge power storage so there is plenty available all the time.
For me the wire gauge is less important than the materials the cable is made from and that goes double for the connections. Audio Envy makes good flexible cables with quality materials for good prices.
The recently discovered: Adequacy Equation ~~~ knowitall (raised e to the 3X ridiculous) divided by bullshit (raised to e of the blind constant) = farce less envy
The whole debate about AC power cords is ridiculous. Same with speaker wire. It’s ridiculous. If it can carry enough power to the device, it is adequate, and using a more expensive cable isn’t going to make a damn bit of difference. Sorry, but all of you are just bullshiting yourselves. There been many blind test done, and nobody can tell the difference, and I’m sure none of you are any different. Perception is reality. By the way, I can afford any cable for any component that’s available. So it’s not a case of Envy with me, it’s just a case of understanding how electronics and electricity works . It’s for that reason that well-regarded companies like McIntosh don’t really believe in expensive cables. They sell them because they can make money on them but if you talk to the people in charge there, they too think it’s a farce.
Such a trove of valuable leads, thanks to all. Can't guess how any particular cords will sound in my own (ever-evolving) system, but I feel sure the worthiest contenders have all been named, many of them dittoed. So I'm starting with Zavfino (thx to lalitk & williewonka) with the other thirty candidates standing ready in the playlist. After all, it's more about the journey than the illusory destination, right?
Look at Synergistic Research. They make high quality products. Ask for Jason Ressler when you call. He is extremely knowledgeable and honest. Tell him Larry from Denver sent you. You will really talking to him. One of the most knowledgeable in the industry.
Take a look at vhaudio.com. They sell premade cords and Chris has a Diy page to make your own where you save alot. I made 2 Flavor 4 power cords and others. His plugs are really nice but too pricey for me. I order Viborg solid copper with gold plating plugs on amazon and i couldn’t be happier.
I’m a big fan of Silnote Audio out of Roanoke, VA. They only sell direct and have unbeatable prices for the quality of their product. Couldn’t be happier with my purchases from them (power cables, XLR to XLR, RCA to XLR and optical to RCA interconnects). I’ve also only bought their entry level so far.
I am rolling with the Signal Cable Silver Resolution at 12 AWG for my X200 and their Magic Power Digital Reference 12 AWG and has double shielding for my CDT and DAC. Not overtly expensive by any means. http://signalcable.com/power_cables.html Just because I am frugal. Rather spend money on music and my kids.
@twoleftears I tend to believe it more along the marketing lines than what is actually necessary. IE, used commercial / industrial circular saws when I was in business (Builder/contractor/carpenter I used 12ga electrical cable to run my saws which drew 13-15 amps. A typical amp draws 4 -5 amps. Consider that back when most things came through with an attached PC, the ga was 14-16...many were 16 gauge. That said, I believe that PC's do make a difference. But I doubt I need a 7ga or 10ga for my amp, even though I have one now
This post/query raises an interesting more general point.
Some companies sell a range of one-size-fits-all power cords, only differentiated by construction and price.
Others sell power cords designed for higher power and lower power applications; sometimes there are different "versions" of what is otherwise the same model. Almost always, the high power versions are constructed with smaller awg (i.e. thicker) wire.
So, who is right? If some companies believe the same awg is more than adequate for all applications, are other companies just taking advantage of the situation to charge more for more copper (or whatever). Or...?
I recommend looking at DH Labs and Wireworld. They have cords at different price points. Both offer excellent options at the $500 price point. Both are highly respected brands.
I have used both while saving for higher end cords.
Many lessons here, and thanks for them. Seems there are more worthy PCs in heaven and earth than had been dreamt of in my philosophy. Maybe should have asked "non-DIYers, what PCs do YOU use for wall out to amp, conditioner, subs?" My budget for current project is <$500 per cord.
DIY Helix, many recipes, mine uses three or four strands of VH Audio Airlock for hot wire. I've either owned or auditioned tons of PC's in range of $1k-$5k, DIY Helix now the only pc I use in all important equipment. I'd assume gauge of cable is the critical factor in differentiating high current to lesser current pc. I do change amount of hot strands in my DIY Helix, always min. 12 gauge for neutral and grounds, vary between 11 and 13 gauge for hot.
I like Transparent Audio's lower cost cords (as well as speaker cables and interconnects)... low priced and often overlooked because of the company's very expensive offerings...
@millercarbon that is just a stupid post dude. Just ignorant.
Budget high current, why not take 2 or 3 freebie power cords, cut the ends and solder em all into one? Wouldn't that be three times the current? With four or 5 you could get lots of current. How much current are we talking anyway?
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