Outlet Question

These are a bit more at $89 but have gotten good reviews and compared well to more expensive competitors.

https://www.cruzefirstaudio.com/maestro/the-maestro-outlet

Hi OP!

So, lets get regulations out of the way first. Outlets in a home today must be tamper resistant. I don’t know of any "audio" grade outlet ( and I use the term sneeringly) which has this feature. Of course if you are retrofitting 1 outlet in an older home without kids you may not care.

The minimum I install anywhere in my house is the combined commercial/residential. Meaning they are ruggedized for commercial use but include the TR features for home. Lowe’s has 10 packs of Eaton’s for about $45.

As for hospital grade, Eaton, Hubbell and Leviton are good sources. Again, you should use hospital grade + tamper resistant to be fully code compliant.

Also see the discussion here for accessories to insure a solid outlet.

I also use 90 degree hospital grade plugs which give me back floor space and if you turn them the right way you can put 2 in an outlet. The combination of the HG plug and socket is very tight.

*ensure

@romad Wrote:

Is there any good outlets for about $20 U.S. anyone can recommend?

See here and here!

Mike

@romad, Do not put a 20 amp plug on a 15amp circuit!

Does anyone know if I need 15 or 20 amp? I don't have dedicated line but it's only a dollar more for 20 amp. 

Do not put a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit. 15 amp circuits have 15 amp breakers and 14 gauge wire. The 20 amp circuit has 12 gauge wire and 20 amp breakers.  It the current outlet is only 15 amps it should not be replaced with a 20 amp one. (You can tell the difference between 15 and 20 amp outlets as the 20 amp version has a perpendicular slot off each ground connection -- looks like a sideways "T".)

mlsstl, Thanks for letting me know about the amps to use.

The Hubbell 5362 is a pretty decent unit. 

OP:

A peculiarity of the code is that 15A and 20A outlets may be used on 20A circuits. For this, the two types have identical quality and current capacities. Meaning there’s no point in putting in a 20A outlet in a 15A circuit, it’s not built better. Some makers even use EXACTLY the same conductors in both models, but different face plates to save money.

The theory here is that some circuits, like the kitchen counter, may need a 20A circuit to handle multiple appliances at the same time without nuisance tripping.  So the circuit is 20A, but each outlet may have a 15A face plate. The outlets still have to be safe to use on the 20A circuit, so the construction is always the same. 15A outlets do not have thinner conductors.

However, no, you should not put a 20A plug on a 15A outlet as the T shaped hot pin indicates it is safe to use for 20A devices, like industrial vacuum cleaners.

Which brand is better Hubbel or Leviton? I need 15 amp.

zlone

395 posts

04-29-2024 at 09:15am 

The Hubbell 5362 is a pretty decent unit. 

^^^^^THIS^^^^^

The hospitals that I worked in used Hubble HG outlets , light switches and power plugs .  I replaced all the outlets and switches in my house with Hubble and used Hubble HG outlets and switches on the circuit that my system is on ,  I also used an Audioquest outlet where I plug my amp into .

just a note not everyone lives in the same state let alone same country so check your local electrical codes.

Your probably going to want to be in code as your insurance company will definitely hang you out to dry if you have a fire and they find non-compliant outlets in your house. 

Then there is the why bother if your house is only 4 yours old. I don't imagine the current outlets have lost their grip already. main difference to the hospital outlets if higher grip force on the plug, more robust, built to higher standards. Not much difference in the conductors etc.  We don't generally plug and unplug our audio equipment multiple times a day so I don't see the need for them. your value may differ though. 

Ferrous Steel... Just look at an audio grade outlet company's outlet, that have their outlets made to their specs. You won't see any steel used. 

You don't have to spend big bucks for a good sounding outlet. Just buy one that has a non nickel plated brass back strap an non nickel plated brass contacts.

Wow! 🤔🤕🚯

Incidentally and in case anyone might be interested, here’s a rare comparison of several of the more popular “audiophile” outlets.  It’s 10 years old but still interesting/useful today I think.  Note that it includes a cryo’ed (not standard) Hubbell outlet.

https://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/0114/audiophile_ac_outlets.htm

@jea48 

I installed them about 10 years ago , model 8200W  15amp 

purchased from HD Supply , good deals for 10 or more .

The inside is the exact same as the 20 amp , you pay extra for the cover !

I took a 15amp apart and found the 20amp side blade .under the 15amp cover .

@romad  , a few years ago there was a good run of threads related to the ins and outs of installing dedicated circuits, and because of those I learned something that I had done was violating code and may have nullified my home owners in the event of fire.

Anyway, I had put in some new circuits for dedicated lines and I used 12 gauge wire and 20A outlets, BUT I decided I would use 15A circuit-breaker to protect those circuits with as I felt that since a 15A CB should trip at a lower heat than a 20A CB I would be going the extra mile to protect those circuits.  Which I still think is technically true, however I found out here that regardless of what size wire is used, the breaker determines what amperage the circuit actually is, and therefore a 20A outlet (which will accomodate a 20A appliance) on a 15A circuit (which is what  I turned my circuits into by installing 15A breakers, despite the 12 ga wire) is a no-no.

I assume steel backstrap is fine, maybe non magnetic stainless steel is preferable. No?

Try the experiment yourself. I'm willing to bet a $20 home depot receptacle will sound just the same as anything else on the market. 

Why wouldn't it?? 20A, 12ga solid copper wire. I would far more concerned about quality of power coming from the line than a receptacle. Maybe take a look at the voltage sag at various times during the day and night from the public line. LOL I was sure surprised at that and I'm in a very populated area (10M+ people in a 30mi x 80mi stretch)

Definition of "Audiophile": Someone who listens to wall outlets before music.

There is nothing good @20 bucks. Get the AQ Edison. You generally only need one, and only have to buy it once.

Outlets do not affect audio quality. 

Does anyone know the purpose of the blackstrap on an outlet?

*backstrap 

@zlone : Mechanical and electrical.

Mechanically it’s what keeps the assembly firmly attached to the box no matter how much force you use to insert a plug.

Electrically It is  what the ground conductor screw attaches to.  The same strap then goes to the ground pins in the socket as well as the top and bottom tabs which ensure the box they are in is also grounded, if metal. 

Note the difference between residential and commercial. In residential the strap is internal and towards the front, while in commercial it is wrapped around the back.

OP,

After I installed my dedicated lines, I tested out a bunch of receptacles from the usual audiophile suspects: Oyaide, Furutech, Acme, Synergistic Research, Cardas, Wattgate, and a couple of hospital grade.

The best 3 by a good margin were the Furutech GTX-DG (gold), Furutech GTX-DR (rhodium), and Oyaide R1 (not the SWX series). My personal favorites were the GTX-DG and the Oyaide R1, but I can see someone needing more detail preferring the GTX-DR

I found these PS Audio outlets have grat grip and are reasonable:

great grip!

And then there us always the issue of what happens to your insurance coverage in the event of a fire that starts with a “non approved” outlet?

@snapsc -- regarding insurance coverage, I've been a commercial insurance broker for over 40 years.  I know of no homeowners policy with an exclusion that voids coverage based on poor or faulty wiring.

It is common for people to confuse policy language with underwriting considerations.  For example, if an inspection reveals bad wiring, the insurance company will probably turn you down and not issue a policy, or cancel/non-renew an existing policy.  However, once the policy is issued and in force, coverage is in place until the policy expires or is canceled. The only way to void coverage at that point is if you commit an intentional act (like arson.)

Here's another example or policy coverage versus underwriting considerations -- drunk driving that causes an accident. Your auto policy will pay for the damage to your car and the damages & injuries you caused to a third party, even though drunk driving is against the law.  However, after that, your insurance company will probably cancel you and many other insurance companies will refuse to offer coverage or charge a very high price.