Install A Dedicated AC Line at home

Almost no home system requires more than 15A. A properly installed 15A can supply 20A continuously for about an hour. Other than class A, nothing draws anywhere near that much power.

It’s a bad idea to run multiple circuits for a HiFi, doubly dumb if they are not on the same leg. Earth Safety should be as close together as possible for minimum chance of ’ground’ issues.

On a 20A circuit w ≈700wpc [175wpc tube] and a voltmeter on the input never budges at any volume. Ditto on a ’scope.

The total current of everything besides the amplifiers is probably under 2 Amps.  A drop in the bucket and unlikely to cause any voltage sag at all.  

Hey Guys

Another question about installing dedicated 10 gauge wiring for my audio system. Is it necessary to run 10 gauge for all equipment (pre-amps, phono, phono amps, CD player, etc.) or just my mono block amplifiers? 

Thanks.

Didn’t know that good house grounding for audio was a thing until I read about Fremer’s grounding odyssey.

FWIW, Fremer’s existing Earth Grounding was not his problem with the degraded sound he was hearing from his audio system. The problem was the insertion of the new ATS switch into the normal AC power system that feed his audio system equipment.

( New ATS, Automatic Transfer Switch, for his new whole house back up generator power system for his home.)

 

I would imagine a whole new electrical service helped improved the sound from his audio system even more.

The elaborate low earth to rod resistance earth connection, (deep driven into the earth ground rod), does nothing for the sound of his audio system. The electrical service earth connection, grounding electrode, is mainly for lightning protection. The Earth does not possess some magical mystical power that will suck nasty noise from an audio system.

Major Electricity Upgrade From the Roof Down Produced ...

@zensview 

Please keep us posted on what you find out.  I also live in the SF Bay Area and will someday run a dedicated audio AC line.  I also plan to run a dedicated ethernet line.  Didn't know that good house grounding for audio was a thing until I read about Fremer's grounding odyssey.  

@sgreg1

Seriously, is this how you live your life, “beating the libs”? How about maturing just a bit and ending this political vitriol?

Forget adding a new line and purchase a high end UPS system. This will do a much better job of protecting your equipment and give you all the power you’ll need.  

(FWIW, It beats me why anyone would install an IG receptacle in a house. )

To scare the bajeezus out of the missus so she doesn't plug in the vac or think 'A lamp would look nice over there'

These links are worth reading before wasting beacoup bux on 'special' wall sockets and silly wire gauges

Transmission Lines 

The Impact of Mains Impedance on Power Quality

The “Conduit Transformer” •

This finally explains what drives 99% of all ground loops! • Load current in line and neutral produces opposing magnetic fields since instantaneous current flow is in opposite directions • Imperfect cancellation magnetically induces voltage over the length of the nearby safety ground conductor • Strongly affected by geometry and proximity of wires • Highest voltages with randomly positioned wires in conduit • Lower voltages with uniform geometry of Romex® • Voltage is directly proportional to load current, wire length, and rate of change in current or ∆I/∆t • Mechanism favors high-frequency harmonics of 60 Hz • For constant current in L and N, induced voltage rises at 6 dB/octave

from An Overview of Audio System Grounding & Interfacing - Indy AES 2012 Seminar p31

 

@dpop said:

Just to clarify, AC-HCF is considered better than EMT (see the chart on Middle Atlantic’s page 13). AC-HCF is considered a 1/2" (depending on gauge of wire) steel-clad MC.

I’ve posted about this before...

Actually,

The most effective way to reduce GVI is to twist the phase conductors together and pull through a conduit with a straight ground wire.
This may be time consuming and impractical, but for critical situations where millivolts matter, this may be the best solution.

Page 40 of your Web Link.

Ground Voltage Induction (GVI)

Non ("Isolated Ground) 3 wire MC aluminum armored cable is the way to go in my opinion. Easier to install than EMT conduit. Not to mention the time that would be spent twisting the Hot and neutral conductors together. Imagine a long run... With MC Code allows a plastic box can be used for the outlet instead of a steel box. A lot of audiophiles avoid using ferrous steel boxes. Some avoid ferrous steel conduit.

 

MC Aluminum Jacket
(best for non-IG runs)

See chart on page 40.

 

(FWIW, It beats me why anyone would install an IG receptacle in a house. )

 

/ / / /

 

From page 13:

Armor Clad for Healthcare Facilities (AC-HCF)
Aluminum Armor Clad for Healthcare Facilities (AC-HCF) is the best choice for
Isolated Ground A/V systems. Like MC, it contains an additional grounding
conductor, although with this type of cable it is permissible to use the metal jacket
as the safety grounding conductor, as required with isolated ground installations.
The biggest benefit is that the average proximity of the hot conductor and the
neutral conductor with respect to the isolated equipment grounding conductor is
nearly equal, virtually eliminating ground voltage induction (GVI), even on long
runs.
Steel Armor Clad for Healthcare Facilities (AC-HCF)
Similar to aluminum armor clad AC-HCF, but does not address ground voltage induction as effectively as aluminum (see Ground
Voltage Induction section of this paper). Two other problems are that steel clad is not readily available and is cumbersome to transport
and install

 

/ / / / /

 

Side note:

For those that may choose to use conduit. Best practices for a true dedicated branch is a true dedicated circuit does not share a conduit or cable with another branch circuit.

.

@raam 

All hobbies to me are about achieving superb results but at the most moderate costs possible.

100% with you there (where's that fist up in the air emoji when you need it). Congrats on your sky-reaching endeavors!

Thanks, much appreciated:)

I might be just fine since from panel to each outlet the wires are tightly twisted and separated from all signal cables from 2' up to 7'.

Quad Shield Coax from pedestal to Ethernet switch, looking at upgrades. Only parallel in whole system, 2' from AC lines to outlets then 4ft away at Switch.

CAT6, for now, Ethernet cables, looking into others

Star Quad RCA, tube amp for main speakers, no option for balanced cables.though I have made balanced cables for other systems using it.

As mentioned will make DIY power cords($50 planned, will double if needed but not likely)

I always run good cables but never "audiophile" but well designed and more importantly proper routing distance and methods like 90 degree crossings if needed.

I picked up steel clad flex but the wires were not crossed so returned it, I will take a look at it later today when I go back to the supplier.

------------

 

All hobbies to me are about achieving superb results but at the most moderate costs possible. I have a huge history in many endeavors of doing quite well in that regard, including building race cars. I beat a prior world champion high end mobile audio shop owner in front of his SD Charger starting lineman customers in my 5th SQ audio comp event, all DIY in my back yard:) (Zapco, McIntosh, Dynaudio, DIY cables)

@raam Just to clarify, AC-HCF is considered better than EMT (see the chart on Middle Atlantic's page 13). AC-HCF is considered a 1/2" (depending on gauge of wire) steel-clad MC. 

Optimized Power Distribution and Grounding for Audio, Video and Electronic Systems

@ieales

Adding additional ground rods can reduce the efficiency of the Earth which is there primarily for lightning strikes on the power lines.

Not when tied together, and spaced (a good rule of thumb is the length of the rods) equally apart from each other. I admit (most don’t know this), ground rods *are mainly there* for (discharging) lightning strikes. Having been a Radio Broadcast Engineer for over 3 decades, I’ve always dealt with lightning, lightning strikes and lightning damage (oh what fun; but really, what an experience!), with those big lightning rods (towers) sticking straight up into the sky.

I think what confuses many is when they start beefing up their ground rods, they’re most times simultaneously also beefing up (without realizing it) their audio system grounding and bonding infrastructure; hence the perceived and achieved lower noise floors.

Overkill if you understand electricity.

You do realize this hobby is about excess, headroom and overkill, right? 😉

Great article, thanks for posting it! I might have to swap out the aluminum flex conduit for steel EMT, forgot about magnetic shielding, aluminum only does electrical sheilding:(

I will have to read the section on isolation transformers a couple of more times but it looks like I will want to do something along that line as well.

The rest of my work looks good, nice I had not finished the install, easy to change to EMT/

Thanks!

Rick

These were done a Madter Electrician Audiophile,we changed the original ground rod for they had used brass and it rotted the 2 Solid copper pipe I had Heavy silver plated to not rot , same ground as original but much better 

my system sounds night and day better , that’s the only thing that counts.

and I have at the breaker box a $300 Siemens surge protector which pikes up even little spikes . I had a dedicated 15 amp breaker before , even with a $5000 innuos streamer , in this new Dedicated 30 amp breaker4 wire sounds better then with the streamer vs my little green computer , it’s That good !

You want two, one for your main components and a separate for your amp.

Overkill if you understand electricity. Just be sure to wire the two circuits on the same AC buss. And choose the one without refrigeration, etc. 

2 grounds ,one common ground ,the other a insulated isolated ground on a separate Copper buzz Bar, amd a 2 inch  4 ft long ground 

@audioman58 

Bad choices. Adding additional ground rods can reduce the efficiency of the Earth which is there primarily for lightning strikes on the power lines. Unless it was engineered, you probably made things worse.

For those interested; more white pages on AC power for audio:

Power and Grounding for Audio and Audio/Video Systems

Thanks all, I really apricated. Sorry about delayed reply ( stuck into my busy working day yesterday) This is great leaning curve to me to get onto this really necessary Dedicated AC Line for my home audio system, please continue the thread. 

Also using Square D breakers, already on hand.

Will apply good paste to all connections except plugs into outlets, I will used a can of ProGold to spray those. I saved the military many millions using that stuff, brought in my one can to show them it worked then bought it by the case.

Adding two dedicated lines using materials on hand and a very long history either full time or as a hobby, 60+ years including 20 as a tech on very high end military systems, to gain whatever is actually possible and not just a change in sound as seems to be what most high cost cables, AC, etc cost.

We have a bunch of wifi power meters close by so also shielding the walls as I remodel and metal grounded window screens.

Power Guard RV permanent mount surge suppressor with remote monitor, nice to see the loads on each 50 amp leg as I turn things on and off. Already had this from prior RV, waited to long to install it, just finished it today.

Separate noisy from quieter circuits per leg. All power cables, Ethernet, etc are located at a distance from each other, c

1) 10 gauge THHN 3 wire twisted at 2 inches per turn. 1/2" aluminum flex connected at the panel but not touching anything metal on the way to heavy gauge plastic boxes, any noise goes back to ground at the panel. Leviton Plus+ 20 amp receptacle, not grounded to box or conduit. 33ft run, likely only used to power sub amp.

2) 12 gauge THHN assembled as above except two outlets down low and one up near the ceiling for the TV and Martin Logan soundbar( used when not playing the regular system) Conduit will be connected box to box but not to the outlets.

Far more current capacity than I will ever need, by design.

Computer likely powered off other nearby circuit though I will test all possible combinations with amps, DAC, etc......too see what might sound better.

I have two good quality surge suppressors I can add to the wall outlets to test as well.

Investment, new money of a few items, under $100, total with RV surge suppressor, likely under $600.

After all is done and tested I will then consider some kind of very reasonable priced power conditioner, possibly DIY, rebuild a dead one, etc...but only if it seems it wold be needed.

Also planned, DIY power cables in the $50 range.

For those willing to spend tens of thousands on wiring, cables, conditioners, etc...cool, have fun in this great hobby, at the bare minimum at least it is good for the economy but if you are happy with it, by all means do it!!!

 

Rick

 

 

 

@gdnrbob,  (Bob), thanks for the kind words.

 

Jim

See, I told you @jea48, knew his stuff.

Bob

and to add to that a separate circuit breaker that has no other lines running to anything else.

Carlsbad, you have a physics degree, what does that have to do with knowing how to install a dedicated line and being an electrician? nothing LOL I used to be an electrician I'm retired now you don't have to design a circuit to put in a dedicated line, that's hilarious, all you have to do is run a line from a separate circuit breaker  to your outlet and now you've got a dedicated line, it's not rocket science please don't make me laugh more.

Thanks everyone for your helpful comments — I’ll study them carefully before proceeding. 
 

In reading over the comments, it became apparent to me that I had a typo in my original post. My intent was for the electrician to install a total of 4 dedicated 20 AMP circuits with 10 gauge wiring — one for each of the JC1 amps (2 total), 1 for the AV equipment at the front of the room, and 1 for the HiFi source equipment at the back of the room. I think that addresses the very valid concerns from the first response post. 
 

Thanks again for everyone’s suggestions. 

Everyone, please listen to @urbie .  He has all the answers.  I just have a physics degree from a little technical school in the midwest (University of Chicago). 

Another tip for you; when establishing these new circuits for audio, be sure to protect them with the latest dual-function GFCI/AFCI circuit breakers.

Combination Arc-Fault Circuit-Breaker VS. Dual Function: Arc-Fault/GFCI Circuit-Breaker 

@jea48 

An absolute perfect audio approach I wholly agree. That is of course the house being a new build under construction. Could be an incredibly costly endeavour depending on present electrical service. One might have to deal with noise etc. after the fact, panel reconfiguring and many a PS audio industry out there ready to help.In many cases those are the only options. I’m very fortunate in that I have a small quiet panel 10 feet from my equipment, my installation was DIY overseen by an electrical engineer and a seasoned Audio Technician, there is no Measurable audible noise ! Perhaps I was a little cut and dried with my recommendations, requesting a whole lot of detail would’ve been a better way to go.

Cheers

 

@steeveb @jea48 >>>The two hot conductors must be fed from opposite legs. One from Line 1 and the other from Line 2.<<<

Even though steeveb failed to mention that in his post (I’m sure he just forgot), it would be a must in the 3-wire hookup that he described. You would never ever want to have two dedicated 15 or 20 amp branch circuits, on the same leg, sharing the same neutral (unless it was over-sized, but don’t even go there).

Here are some great white pages put out by Middle Atlantic. Pay special attention to Middle Atlantic’s page 12 of the booklet (AC-HCF). If you’re looking to wire up a branch circuit for audio, AC-HCF is the wiring I would highly recommend using. Obviously some, due to existing building construction, won't be able to utilize this particular cable, but if and when possible, use AC-HCF (with isolated ground outlets) for your audio branch circuits, as it just doesn't currently get any better. Taking that even a step further, it would probably make sense to have a separate dedicated branch circuit just for your power amps, and one for your front end gear.

Optimized Power Distribution and Grounding for Audio, Video and Electronic Systems

 

Would seem you need an electrician and a game plan. A simple question is can I get Dedicated 10 or 12 gauge wires from my fuse panel to my listening room. at this point it does not matter what you’re doing with it, you just want dedicated line information and possibilities. How many outlets you need depends on your equipment now or in the future.

Agree...

Anything is possible... It all comes down to time and money. The electrician’s time and the OP’s money.

Not all electricians are created equal. I imagine that’s why the OP posted this thread. The OP is looking for recommendations for a good Electrical Contractor/Electrician in his area to do the job. A residential house wireman that only wires new homes for a living would not be a good choice, imo. The OP wants an electrician that has umpteen hours of experience installing branch circuit wiring in a finished house that is furnished and occupied. The OP wants an electrician that won’t make a lot of dust and leaves a mess for the OP to clean up.

Layout is important... Proper layout will save man hours in labor costs. And, "Oh I didn’t count on that"...

 

You do not have to listen to what crap others have and or why. No one online knows the electrical layout in your house, suggestions on what to buy… speculation, confusing, and a waste of time.

The OP should do his homework to learn what best practices are recommended for branch circuits that are used to feed audio equipment.

Those that say the electrician knows best and knows what is needed to meet electrical codes that’s fine for installing a branch circuit to feed a freezer or washing machine. May not be good for feeding audio equipment though.

NEC (National Electrical Code) is bare minimum electrical safety requirements.

Bare Minimum...

Quote:
National Electrical Code 90.1 Purpose:

(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity. This Code is not intended as a design specification or an instruction manual for untrained persons

B) Adequacy. This Code contains provisions considered necessary for safety. Compliance therewith and proper maintenance results in an installation that is essentially free from hazard but not necessarily efficient, convenient, or adequate for good service or future expansion of electrical use.

//


The NEC could care less about how your audio system sounds. NEC could care less if your system is having ground loop hum problems.

 

 

@zensview ,

Look at page 16. Read pages 31 thru 36.
https://centralindianaaes.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/indy-aes-2012-seminar-w-notes-v1-0.pdf


It is important that long parallel runs of NM cables (Romex Trade Name) need to be separated from one another by at least 12" or so, if possible, all the way to the wall duplex receptacle outlet boxes. (As soon as possible after getting out of the electrical panel.) If pulled next to one another the chances increase that the hot and neutral current carrying conductors of the branch circuits will induce a voltage onto the EGC, (Equipment Grounding Conductor) from cable to cable.. This can/will cause ground loop hum. Also any noise traveling on one branch circuit will be induced on the conductors of other branch circuits. One of the reasons for multiple branch circuits is to decouple the power supply’s of digital equipment from analog equipment. That won’t happen if the NM cables are running parallel against one another.

Also keep them away from other parallel running branch circuit wiring.
Especially lighting branch circuits. (Therein branch circuit wiring feeding LEDs, dimmers, and any other harmonic creating noise items that could/would induce a voltage, noise, onto the audio dedicated branch circuits.)
Here in an interesting video on harmonics cauded by a lighting dimmer control.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCK5W9vlAE0


If you install more than one dedicated branch circuit make sure to tell the electrician to install both branch circuits on 20 amp breakers fed from the same Line, leg, in the electrical panel. Both on L1 or both on L2.

Why?
Here is an old quote from a White Paper by ExactPower. (The Link is no longer any good. The last time I clicked on the Link was in May of 2013 when I posted it in a thread)

"Less than 300 microamps of ground loop current can cause hum as it flows in an unbalanced audio interconnect cable. However, harmonics of 60Hz that are generated from lighting dimmers or switch-mode power supplies sound like Buzzz mixed with a bit of Hummm and are more easily coupled by even smaller currents. Harmonics can add together when equipment is powered from different phases, so clearly there is an advantage to specifying same-phase electrical service to power the electronics systems in most cases....

Any leakage currents on the safety ground wires of split single phase load circuits fed by different phase legs will add together due to the 240V potential difference....

Power conditioners do not solve any of these common problems: Cross phase coupling (doubles hums & buzzes) .... What actually does solve them: Same phase power.
http://www.exactpower.com/elite/assets/pdfs/theTRUTH.pdf

 

*** Any leakage currents on the safety ground wires of split single phase load circuits fed by different phase legs will add together due to the 240V potential difference....

 

NO multiwire branch circuits... (A branch circuit consisting of 2 hot conductors and a common shared neutral conductor. The two hot conductor must be fed from opposite legs. One from Line 1 and the other from Line 2.)

Multiwire branch circuits are bad for audio equipment.

 

The Type of branch circuit wiring used and the method used for installation is important for a branch circuit(s) feeding audio equipment.

.

 

 

@mikempls Hmmm, this is just me, but I personally have a little bit of a problem with installing 30 amp circuits for audio equipment protection. Even though almost all audio equipment has its own internal fuse or circuit breaker, from gut instinct, it still just doesn't sit well with me (especially when feeding a 15 or 20 amp receptacle). To me, the 30 amp breaker allows just a bit too much headroom for protection, if a piece of equipment blows up. I get what you're trying to accomplish (providing low resistance current availability wiring), but I don't see how it even passes code to begin with. 

Here's what I have done for my power amplifier branch circuit, and even *this* wouldn't pass NEC code, but I still feel it keeps equipment protection a bit more in check (even though, again, almost every piece of audio equipment has its own internal circuit breaker or fuse). 1) 15 or 20 amp breaker in load center (circuit breaker box). 2) #10 AWG wire to outlet box 3) depending on what size breaker (15 or 20 amp) was used, provide the same rated outlet receptacle 4) since it's not very easy attaching #10 wires to an outlet, those wires get capped in the outlet box (using AlumiConn lugs - make sure to torque them correctly), and transferred to 6" #12 pigtails, to then attach to the outlet.

I personally don't have a problem with short distance smaller gauge pigtails. It's the 30 amp breaker I have a bit of a problem with, and the lower current rated outlets attached to it. 

AlumiConn's are my most favorite wire cap - in all situations. They are a bit pricey, and may have to be special ordered, but I feel are worth every cent. When installing the AlumiConn's, if you don't already own one, you must also purchase a reputable torque driver (this is a must).  

AlumiConn Lugs 

@steeveb  >>>The 2 hot wires share the neutral and allow the loads to cancel each other out.<<< I completely forgot about this. Thanks for the reminder.

@ronboco 

no nation wide as part of mush brains “inflation reduction” money laundering plan.

The electrical inspectors in my area don't even need to be licensed electricians, they go to courses that they don't even need to fully attend, most of them go golfing instead. I had a friend that worked there and had a heating and cooling licence, he was the only one with that type of license and they didn't even have him doing the heating and cooling inspections.

I have mulled this idea over for myself. But also you must look at the lines you intend to run in the NEW circuit. I find it ironic that peoplw wil spend thousands of dollars on 1 meter of power cable and ignore the standard 12 or 14 gage of ordinary coper or even worse coper clad aluminum unshielded lines in wall in some cases for 100s of feet. Then what about the breaker? Another thing to look at is the quality of and length of the ground to the breaker box. I was looking at a new line my mother had a LICENSED Electrician put in her 100 year old house. When searching out the ground lead, INSTEAD of running a 5 foot coper line to a standard 8 or 10 Ft. ground rod directly next to the breaker box, he ran over 50 ft, directly to the GAS line coming into the house.

Don’t forget if you don’t get a permit or use a licensed electrician and you have a fire in your home you can forget your insurance company giving you a dime. They will use any excuse to not pay a claim.

@mikempls - If I read the conversion chart correctly 10 gauge is equivalent to 2.5sq twin and earth european cable. That being the case, the electrician is just being lazy in wanting to mix in a smaller gauge cable because 10 gauge is not especially hard to work with  - it's the standard for regular power circuits here - and moreover, he's introducing a totally unnecessary break in the cable - which is definitely bad practice.

@sgreg1 

Is that free install and tax credit only for California ? I don’t drive an electric either but could use the free money! 

Following the recommendations of many a HiFi Guru, I’ve hired an licensed electrician to run 30 amp circuits with 10 gauge wire for my stereo gear. I told him I’d supply the PS Audio PowerPort Classic Outlets (I believe these are similar to the JPS Labs outlets shown above.)

Here’s my question — the electrician tells me that he connects a “tail” of 12 gauge wire to the heavier 10 gauge wire on the outlet end, making it easier to connect to the outlet. 

To my mind (a complete electrical newbie), this sounds like it defeats the purpose of installing the 10 gauge wire — to bring more robust electrical power from the circuit to the outlet to the stereo equipment. 

Can those of you who have more experience in this area share your wisdom so I don’t end up with a botched installation?

Thanks much.

Michael 

Hi Zee,

Was a residential electrician/contractor several decades ago.  Also in Berkeley.  Here is what I would do if I were doing it for myself:

Run 12/3 (#12/3  conductors) metal clad cable (MCC) from the first electrical panel in the house.  That 3rd conductor allows you to create what is called a 3-wire circuit.  The 2 hot wires share the neutral and allow the loads to cancel each other out.  So if say you have 8 amps on one conductor and 5 on the other the neutral will only have a 3 amp load.  This reduces voltage drop as it shortens the return path for 5 amps of the load.  You have to pay a bit extra for the extra conductor and another circuit breaker but I think it's worth it, especially if you have or ever plan on betting monoblocks, you can put one on each circuit.    The MCC provides a metal sheathing around the conductors that is grounded which will prevent any EMI or EMF from radiating from the 120V conductors.  Not really sure that this is of any real concern but it gives some peace of mind.  I would also install the outlet in a metal box as opposed to plastic for the same reason.   Also a metal receptacle plate.  And finally I would probably use 15amp circuit breakers as long as the load would permit as this provides a bit of safety for your equipment in the event of a short.  I have used Grant Fivis at 650-291-2821 for my most recent electrical work.

 

You might also consider running another 12/2 cable for any future or present equipment that might be 240V.  It would be cheaper to do it all at one time rather than for it to be 2 separate jobs.

Would seem you need an electrician and a game plan. A simple question is can I get Dedicated 10 or 12 gauge wires from my fuse panel to my listening room. at this point it does not matter what you’re doing with it, you just want dedicated line information and possibilities. How many outlets you need depends on your equipment now or in the future. You do not have to listen to what crap others have and or why. No one online knows the electrical layout in your house, suggestions on what to buy… speculation, confusing, and a waste of time.

Cheers

I use a awg10  lowest resistance , my Electrician,Audiophile installed a 4 wire 

2 grounds ,one common ground ,the other a insulated isolated ground on a separate Copper buzz Bar, amd a 2 inch  4 ft long ground 

contacts bought commercial 30 amp breaker heavy silver plated copper breaker.

these streamers I tried this ground setups totally eliminated the need ,A little green computer , and uptone audio ether regen is excellent ,the only better 

then the Uptone audio Ethernet hub ,is the synergistic research but is expensive around $2k.   Streaming sounds so much better and buy the Motorola modem router combo it’s $270 on Amazon but excellent.

I lucked out on my current room--the company was both residential and commercial and I tapped the commercial guys when I explained I wanted to install a 10kVA iso transformer as part of the package. These guys were used to doing all kinds of stuff, from auditoria and sports arenas to other big commercial projects. Their work was impeccable. Unfortunately the commercial group splintered off shortly after my work was done (no, I was not the cause) but I found another top tier electrician who did work on our kitchen reno and when I mapped what I wanted to do with a bypass for a Generac, he totally got it-- sort of the Fremer problem (though nobody else I know with a system and Generac has had problems). 

Anyway, it is luck of the draw. I've had some terrible vendors over the years as well. My absolute favorite guy was not a licensed electrician- so I could not have him do any electrical work but he was an airframe mechanic for cargo jets. Man, that guy was so overqualified. He was ostensibly a plumber, but maintained this elaborate boiler system we had in our last house back east. 

If you get somebody good, your life will be improved immeasurably. :)

Or, at least you won't be tearing your hair out. 

Carlsbad, obviously you don't know anything about electricity and being an electrician, all you have to do is run a wire from your panel connected to a separate circuit breaker and then to your outlet it's not rocket science it's pretty simple actually you don't need an electrical engineer planning it out for you. LOL

Carlsbad, obviously you don't know anything about electricity and being an electrician, all you have to do is run a wire from your panel connected to a separate circuit breaker and then to your outlet it's not rocket science it's pretty simple actually you don't need an electrical engineer planning it out for you. LOL

@sgreg1 >>>You live in CA. If you go by the book you will need to pull permit, have three inspections, and an environment impact study done before any work. You will be in at 5K before they touch any wire.<<<

An excellent point indeed. I've heard all about it on Real Time with Bill Maher (how he tried to install solar power, and all of the hoops he had to jump through).

We haven't heard from Zee (zensview) in a while, so we really don't know how capable he (assuming here) is of doing this work himself.  

I have had two installed in my house (20 years apart). You just want to find a licensed electrician… not that you can’t do it yourself. Expect them to look at you like you are crazy. Just tell them to do it. You will be very happy. You want two, one for your main components and a separate for your amp. Go for 10 gauge Romex unless you want to get really fancy with special wire. Use hospital grade duplex receptacle unless you buy audiophile ones.

But running 2 10 Gauge Romex direct lines will significantly improve the performance of your system. Well worth it.

Find someone who can do it for cash on the side. You live in CA. If you go by the book you will need to pull permit, have three inspections, and an environment impact study done before any work. You will be in at 5K before they touch any wire. Might want to have the file for permit claiming it is a plug in station for your electric car then the state and city will pay for it snd also give you a tax break. I don’t and never ever will buy an electric car but put in charger as it was free and a 6K tax credit! Nothing better than beating libs at their own game!

Berkeley local here, 

  Give Din at Electrical Installations a call. He’s a electrical contractor  in Oakland, licensed, and bonded. Worked with him a bunch, he knows his stuff. Just tell him you want a dedicated circuit, he’ll do the rest.