Quantum Science Audio Thread

⬆️ What a tired and bad joke. ⬆️

A fuse:
1: two end caps
2: short piece of fuse wire connecting the two end caps through a glass tube (that’s all she wrote).

To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the technicians of this industry that design your audio products that you have.

AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH THESE FUSERS ABOUT THE SONIC IMPROVMENT DETAILS, AND EVEN MORE ABSURD, AC MAINS FUSE PLACEMENT DIRECTION!!

Just do this before spending your hard earned dollars, and giving it to these very suspect website outlets .

Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.
As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK
(even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)

Cheers to those "non fusers" George

Anyone tried the red fuse?  In what component?  How did it compare to themyellow or violet?

                                      This is just a bump fest for "snake oil"



A fuse:
1: two end caps
2: short piece of fuse wire connecting the two end caps through a glass tube (that’s all she wrote).

To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products you have.
AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH FUSERS ABOUT THE SOUND IMPROVMENT DETAILS AND AC FUSE PLACEMENT DIRECTION, EVER!!!

Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.
As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show the same fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/Vvx39mg
(even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)

Cheers to those "non fusers" George

Again,
any of you guys using these Fuse(s) in a CD/SACD player?

Happy Listening!

Thanks Jeff. I'm definitely going to give it more time......

Hi coralkong: My experience has been that some power cords can take a long time to break in. Sometimes weeks. The break in period can be like a roller coaster ride, sounding good for a while and then like crap for a while until fully run in. I suggest taking a little more time with the break in before ditching the GRs. You may be rewarded in spades. Good listening. Jeff

A quick update on my new GR Research B24 power cable.

When I first plugged it in, I was pretty pleased with it. Sounded pretty good. 
As I have listened to it over the last few days, I could literally hear the sound changing as the hours ticked by, and not necessarily for the better.
The music actually started to sound a bit distorted at one point, especially at higher volumes. Made me scratch my head a little bit, but the result/phenomenon was absolutely real.

For a A/B, (and to make sure I wasn't "hearing things"), I currently have the new B24 cable unplugged and a broken-in Maze Ref4 Power cable back in the system on my Classe preamp.

I'm going to revisit the GR Research cable this week and continue to let it settle in, but it needs to show some improvement soon, or this sucker's going back. Hopefully it's just breaking in (I think GR Research recommends 200 hours), but this is some of the most brutal break-in I've experienced on a cable so far.

An update on my yellow fuses that replace the SR orange.  I installed one in my Lampi Pacific and listened for a couple of days and slowly added one to my Pre-amp and Mono Amps.  At first blush there was an improvement in clarity so I was happy,  I then pasted the end caps with 1260 and went on vacation for a week.  When I came back and listened to my music something major happened.  I could not believe the difference.  Better Clarity, 3D imaging, Soundstage and increased separation of instruments.  

I am debating upgrading one fuse to Red in my Lampi as I think the source of my music is most critical.  Man I wish there was a lending library as the $1400 price for a fuse blows my mind.  

yoby,
My power cords:
I am using the Synergistic Galileo SX on my source, an Audioquest Dragon High Current on my Niagara 7000 conditioner and the Nova power cords on my amps.

ozzy

 I got an idea. Put two fuses in Parallel, with the arrows in each direction! Then let the electrons themselves decide. Plus, double your profits. Wow, like every other electron would pick the opposite fuse, man. 

I've been using Maze Audio Ref 4 power cords for awhile now, but just ordered one of the new ones from GR Research to try out (the B24). 
The Maze Audio ones certainly sound good for the price (running SR Orange fuses in the devices they're connected to).
After a few weeks break in on the GR Research cord (should be here on Friday), I'll have a better idea of which ones sound better to me (at least in what scenario).

And, yep....couldn't agree more. Everything matters.

SR Level III power cords here. Prior to the SR cords, I was using cords built by David Magan. The SR's were a substantial upgrade.

Frank

I'm waiting for delivery of a yellow fuse to replace a Synergistic orange one. In the meantme I was wondering, what combinations of power cords are members using in conjunction with the QS fuses? Are some cords more sympatico than others? Everything matters.

You mean "bump"

oregonpapa

Noted.   Happy Listening!

^^^ As of last night, I'm preferring the SA Orange fuse in the line stage. I'm going to move the Yellow QSA fuse over to the phono stage where it will replace the existing SR Orange fuse. We'll see what happens there. I'll report back on the results. 

Frank

Yes, I found that the midrange is a "little" laid back - my soundstage moved further back -  - and on some pieces the leading edge seems further in the soundstage - so, I suspect some tradeoff...that's why my audition took so long. Overall, I liked what the fuse did, but I don't think you are wrong on what you are hearing. On most music, I preferred what it did musically, more air space, bigger soundstage, while smoother and better dynamics. There was also a little more meat on the bones for instruments and vocals with the QSA fuse. But these could be perceived as reduction in the leading edge, perhaps? It is a system balancing act. I also got more "clarity" - 

jafant ...

Yes, all of that and more clarity too. 

oregonpapa

Thank you for the initial report. Does extended highs mean longer decay, more air,  in the upper registers?

Happy Listening!

@oregonpapa That lush, richer midrange in the Orange fuse was the largest difference from Blue fuse for me.

@ozzy your post got canceled?

millercarbon ...

I had a friend over this morning for a listening session. We did an a/b/a/b comparison between the two fuses. There are richer midrange tones with the SR fuse compared with the Yellow fuse. I like the expanded sound stage, improved bass, and extended highs with the Yellow fuse, but it is definitely lacking in midrange tonality compared with the SR fuse. It may be a break-in issue, and I will continue working with it. I have another Yellow fuse coming at the end of the month that will go into the amp. Stay tuned. 

Frank

Haven't tried Yellow. Only compared Orange to QSA blue. It is not recessed, but way smoother through the midrange than Orange. Planning on getting Yellow and Violet. Tweekgeeks.com gives three months to trade up. Two months to go on that, which I plan on using to allow all the other new stuff to settle in. So we will see.

I’m starting to notice an unnerving artificial recess in the midrange on closely miked instruments and voices using the new QSA Yellow fuse, compared to the SR Orange fuse. Anyone else noticing the same?

Frank

Any of you guys using these Fuses in a CD/SACD player?
Which level/model did you start?  Results in comparison to the competition?

Happy Listening!

I'm interpreting it as looking from the rear. So, in my case, the arrow on the Quicksilver should go left to right (center contact above), while the arrow on the Rogue should go right to left (center contact below).

 @middlemass   
If the center contact is above the left and right contacts, then the fuse should point to the right"

When you write “point to the right” what orientation?  Looking at the component from the front or rear?
 Thanks for the tip!

"It depends on the orientation of the iec input on the back of the component. if the iec input is oriented so that the center contact is below the contacts on the left and right, then the hot is on the right side, and the arrow should point to the left. If the center contact is above the left and right contacts, then the fuse should point to the right".

Thanks again to willgolf (and Mike) for this valuable info. In addition to the yellow for the Quicksilver preamp, I have now ordered the violet for the Rogue Atlas Magnum. Turns out the center contact for the Quicksilver is above while the center contact for the Rogue is below. Without this info, I would probably have oriented both fuses in the same direction.

Have ordered some 1260. Think I will apply it one connection at a time starting with my yellow fuses coming.
Anyone have experience applying it to a system??

Amazing, isn't it?

Something as simple as a fuse can really leave you gobsmacked to the difference in sound.

As I upgrade my system I’ve yet to purchase a preamp for my newly purchased SS amp and dropped a couple of light blues in a NOS Panasonic SA-HE200 reviver and was very jolted to hear a massive, scary even, upgrade of the sound quality of said receiver.

Just as everyone else said. More quiet, dynamic, larger soundstage, black background etc., and it’s only been a few evenings I’ve had the time to play my little rig!

The fuses are not even burned in yet and the difference in PRAT and is non fatiguing and draws you in to listen is only going to get better. My best least expensive upgrade ever.

I emailed Mike and told him: ’send me two black. I’m gonna take the two light blue and trade up within the 90 day grace period for a yellow’ for my new amp. He got back to me in a timely matter at that. Buy these.

@cerberus79
I rarely post anything here. I did so this time because I had direct experience on the topic and reported it in a factual and non judgmental fashion. My reward was to be called a lier by one member and told I was in the wrong hobby by another ( I have been in this hobby for 49 years ). I am and always have been in this hobby for the enjoyment of music. I once got into a discussion with Geof Kait on the directionality of fuses and realized

You/we are lucky GK has disappeared (or been banned) he was a real comic piece of work but fitted in well in these types of threads, and his website is really out there https://www.machinadynamica.com/machina5.htm best one is the pebbles.

As for your Maggies I had quite a bit to do with them owning the big Tympanies also, before going on to big ESL’s.

cerberus79A few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses. I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference. I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference.

As you stated no difference in sound whether 10cent Bussman fuses were in or $150 SR Orange were in, to yourself or when the guys were around to do the A/B with.

cerberus79
Has the purpose of a fuse been lost ? How it is designed to work ? By design there is no directionality in a fuse. it is simply designed to open in an overcurrent situation. If it was directional in relation to the current passing through it would be a diode

Same thing I say to them, if it’s directional then it’s trying to be a diode, and that NOT good in either direction!

But I can tell your Maggies will sound a touch better with just a piece of copper wire soldered lightly outside of the fuse clamps and no fuses. This makes them vulnerable to an amp blowing and going dc, as you know having electronic knowledge background, but no more so than any other speaker would have no dc protection either.

You could try one of these if you want to retain the protection soldered to the fuse clamps.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/5-amp-circuit-breaker/p/SF2254

Cheers George

oregonpapa
If you can’t hear the difference between a stock fuse and an SR Orange fuse, I’d suggest seeking out a different hobby.

Frank

If you can, I suggest you seek medical help (just giving back what’s dished out)

@cerberus79
I rarely post anything here. I did so this time because I had direct experience on the topic and reported it in a factual and non judgmental fashion. My reward was to be called a lier by one member and told I was in the wrong hobby by another ( I have been in this hobby for 49 years ). I am and always have been in this hobby for the enjoyment of music. I once got into a discussion with Geof Kait on the directionality of fuses and realized

You/we are lucky GK has disappeared (or been banned) he was a real comic piece of work but fitted in well in these types of threads, and his website is really out there https://www.machinadynamica.com/machina5.htm best one is the pebbles.

As for your Maggies I had quite a bit to do with them owning the big Tympanies also, before going on to big ESL’s.

cerberus79A few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses. I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference. I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference.

As you stated no difference in sound whether 10cent Bussman fuses were in or $150 SR Orange were in, to yourself or when the guys were around to do the A/B with.

cerberus79
Has the purpose of a fuse been lost ? How it is designed to work ? By design there is no directionality in a fuse. it is simply designed to open in an overcurrent situation. If it was directional in relation to the current passing through it would be a diode

Same thing I say to them, if it’s directional then it’s trying to be a diode, and that NOT good in either direction!

But I can tell your Maggies will sound a touch better with just a piece of copper wire soldered lightly outside of the fuse clamps and no fuses. This makes them vulnerable to an amp blowing and going dc, as you know having electronic knowledge background, but no more so than any other speaker would have no dc protection either.

You could try one of these if you want to retain the protection soldered to the fuse clamps.
 https://www.jaycar.com.au/5-amp-circuit-breaker/p/SF2254

Cheers George

I have a pair of clear stones taking the scenic route (thanks post office) to me this week and will get the blue or open stones next week. So that will give me the complete set, but the red stones on their own are pretty good.Would love to try one of the receptacles but it might be a while.

I know t_ramey has a pair of red stones, has anyone else tried them? I would say that a pair of each color stone (6 total), on top of my power conditioner, has made a more dramatic improvement than putting light blue fuses in my transport, DAC and amp.

Gordon Lightfoot has never sounded better, so relaxed, real and natural!

I'm wondering if anyone here has tried the QSA outlets.

Wondering if anyone has any experience in this area.

cerberus79

You could also try one of these 5A circuit breakers if your worried about no fuse protection, on your MG 3.7i’s instead of the fuse, with a bit of luck the lug spacing could also be soldered to the outside of the 3AG fuse clamp.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/5-amp-circuit-breaker/p/SF2254

Cheers George

Thanks OP interesting..

Regards

@cerberus79
I rarely post anything here. I did so this time because I had direct experience on the topic and reported it in a factual and non judgmental fashion. My reward was to be called a lier by one member and told I was in the wrong hobby by another ( I have been in this hobby for 49 years ). I am and always have been in this hobby for the enjoyment of music. I once got into a discussion with Geof Kait on the directionality of fuses and realized

You/we are lucky GK has disappeared (or been banned) he was a real comic piece of work but fitted in well in these types of threads, and his website is really out there https://www.machinadynamica.com/machina5.htm best one is the pebbles.

As for your Maggies I had quite a bit to do with them owning the big Tympanies also, before going on to big ESL’s.

As you stated no difference in sound whether 10cent Bussman fuses were in or $150 SR Orange were in, to yourself or when the guys were around to do the A/B with.

cerberus79
Has the purpose of a fuse been lost ? How it is designed to work ? By design there is no directionality in a fuse. it is simply designed to open in an overcurrent situation. If it was directional in relation to the current passing through it would be a diode

Same thing I say to them, if it directional then it’s trying to be a diode, and that NOT good in either direction!


But I can tell your Maggies will sound a touch better with just a piece of copper wire soldered lightly outside of the fuse clamps and no fuses. This makes them vulnerable to an amp blowing and going dc, as you know having electronic knowledge background, but no more so than any other speaker would have no dc protection either.

Cheers George

cerberus79
A few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses.
I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference.
I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference.

Kind of just says it all doesn't it?
To those non technical thinking of purchasing this fuse "snake oil" don't. Just save your $150+ and do this instead.

A fuse:1: two end caps2: short piece of fuse wire connecting the two end caps through a glass tube (that’s all).
To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products you have and use.

AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH FUSERS ABOUT THE SOUND IMPROVMENT DETAILS AND AC FUSE PLACEMENT DIRECTION, EVER!!!

Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.
As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out.
As these pics of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK 
(even) the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)

Cheers George

cerberus7943 posts08-17-2021 1:55pm
A few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses. I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference. I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference.

There it is, can’t ask for a better test between a 10cent fuse vs a $150 fuse than that. SAVE YOUR MONEY

A fuse:
1: two end caps
2: short piece of fuse wire connecting the two end caps through a glass tube (that’s all she wrote).

To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products you have.
AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH FUSERS ABOUT THE SOUND IMPROVMENT DETAILS AND AC FUSE PLACEMENT DIRECTION, EVER!!!

Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.
As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK
(even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)

Cheers to those "non fusers" George

cerberus7941 posts08-16-2021 8:55pmA few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses. I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference. I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference.

A fuse:
1: two end caps
2: short piece of fuse wire connecting the two end caps through a glass tube (that’s all she wrote).

To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products you have.
AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH FUSERS ABOUT THE SOUND IMPROVMENT DETAILS AND AC FUSE PLACEMENT DIRECTION, EVER!!!

Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.
As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK
(even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)

BTW this is not free speech here, it is an organized scam of the highest order I have seen in audio, with profits margins that are outrageous. 1000%-3000%


Cheers to those "non fusers" George

Thank you Frank

Keep it up, in the meantime catch this proof for your time and effort!

cerberus7941 posts08-16-2021 8:55pmA few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses. I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference. I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference.

A fuse:
1: two end caps
2: short piece of fuse wire connecting the two end caps through a glass tube (that’s all she wrote).

To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products you have.
AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH FUSERS ABOUT THE SOUND IMPROVMENT DETAILS AND AC FUSE PLACEMENT DIRECTION, EVER!!!

Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.
As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK
(even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)

Cheers to those "non fusers" George

cerberus79 ...

I think I was the one who said you may be in the wrong hobby. I meant it as a joke. In retrospect, I see how it could have been taken as insulting. I apologize for that. My intent here has always been to find ways to improve my system through the experiences of others and to help others to improve their systems through my experiences as well. 

Take care ...

Frank