Good outlet for amplifiers

@brunomarcs 

Great for bringing up that point. Mine came from Japan. But this highlights a huge problem with new and used accessories these days. 

You must be very careful when purchasing today. 

Also about the plating, but I've also bought (but never used yet) contact enhancers. The two that I have are the Stabilant 22A and the Furutech Nano Liquid Ag/Au enhancers. Still have a ton of research to do, but that'll have to wait until the fall

That's what I plan on doing, sure can't hurt (unless you forget to shut off the breaker!)

@thecarpathian

Maybe it’s applied in such a thin coat it’s conductivity isn’t so much an issue.

That is my understanding, but then why does it sound the way it does? How can a few microns of a coating make a difference to the sound? No idea, but it does. Cardas and all those other plug, connector and cable companies must have had some reason to use it over brass/silver/gold. Caelin Gabriel is the only guy who has stated he didn’t like rhodium to my knowledge, and does not use it in his stuff.

...on the all copper is your attaching bare copper wires to it anyway some decades old

You know, I’ve never thought of that. It never occurred to me to clean the ends of the wire with some emery cloth. Obviously I don’t think the most anal and eccentric audiophile would do this on a regular basis, but yeah, if you’re installing the plug it would be a good idea- why not? I am sure some audiophiles use some deoxit there.

And silver tarnishes too, don't forget. 

@ghdprentice  Those Furetech's on Amazon might be fakes according to furetech website 

thecarpathian

Gold plating works best for me, and then silver plating. Rhodium is loved by some, but it's just too much for me, and that incessant break in period is hard to take

@vthokie83 ,

Thank you! Yes, thinking about it copper is too soft by itself. Perhaps the use of rhodium is because it’s a very hard metal. But there are so many more metals with superior conductivity. Maybe it’s applied in such a thin coat it’s conductivity isn’t so much an issue.

Carpathian, here are some copper units. I tested and liked the Furutech FPX-Cu and the Oyaide R-0, but the Oyaide R-0 is better in my mind. The ACME is very good, but silver plated

Furutech does have the FPX-Cu receptacle which is phosphorous copper, because pure copper is too soft to provide strong contact - $63 Cable Company

Acme Audio Labs have silver high purity plated copper - $65 Acme Audio Labs

Oyaide R-0 highly polished beryllium copper (same here, not pure copper because of clamping strength) - $151 Cable Company

Shunyata SR-Z1 high copper content brass - $100 Cable Company

Not sure that is all, but those are the ones I know of

Hi, @mclinnguy ,

Yes, I know. Was wondering if anyone had them, and thoughts. Rhodium I don’t understand, it’s a lousy conductor. All copper or better yet silver coating seems the way to go. My thought on the all copper is your attaching bare copper wires to it anyway some decades old and they I imagine never get cleaned and polished. Personally I’d go with the silver. Can someone explain to me why rhodium is even in the equation?

@thecarpathian 

It is just the coating that is rhodium in the one described above, the contacts are all copper. You can't have uncoated copper, unless you want to clean the corrosion off weekly. 

Viborg VM02

Anyone have all copper receptacles?

@vthokie83 

I'm not sure what caused the long break in to be honest, I just know the Rhodium took me over 3 months.....not sure of the total hours. I was working with 8 (9?) receptacles for about 13 months. I also tend to prefer gold plated, then silver plated, then rhodium plated in that order

The GTX-D(G) took about 6 or so weeks

Thanks, sounds like it is the rhodium then. 

Just received a Viborg rhodium outlet, and I'm debating putting in on the freezer in the garage for a month instead of into the hifi system. One hand it is interesting to hear the changes, but 400 hours again; even listening for 12 hours a day that is 33 days. Think after just doing that math I have decided the former. 

Don't waste money on power cables receptacles plugs fuses conditioners etc.. nothing but snake oil. Take your wife to concerts if you have extra money. 

I don't see much better grip from a duplex outlet than the top offerings from Hubbell and for a fraction of the cost Pass & Seymour.  I use both and frankly I always recommend 20 amp P & S's with the clamping from the back to the wire for thirty plus years and everyone I've checked is still very tight.  When I added P & S (now discontinued) Grey/ clear body colored ninety degree male plug to the end of a power cord, the two gripped like a permanent bond.  To this day they hold well as a recent visit to an acquaintances home where I did this in the early 1990's.  Still my fav right angle plug if you can get them that  was reasonably priced.

And I don't want to abuse the Furutech rhodium plated, but they are REALLY detailed and it was too much in any of my systems. I could see it being really helpful for people with "dark" systems

mclinnguy

I'm not sure what caused the long break in to be honest, I just know the Rhodium took me over 3 months.....not sure of the total hours. I was working with 8 (9?) receptacles for about 13 months. I also tend to prefer gold plated, then silver plated, then rhodium plated in that order

The GTX-D(G) took about 6 or so weeks, the Oyaide R-1 about the same. In my new listening room I'm installing two Furutech GTX-D(Gs), one Oyaide R-1 on the dedicated lines.......and the Acme Audio Labs silver/cryo/CFC elsewhere.

Best - Furutech GTX-D(G Gold) - The GTX-D(R Rhodium was too bright for me, but it is a detail machine...but took forever to break in)

@vthokie83 

I have the GTX-D Rhodium and did notice it took more than 400 hours. So it was the rhodium that caused the long break in, and not the NCF? The gold broke in with less time? 

OP

I tested a bunch of receptacles over a year, and here were my findings:

Best - Furutech GTX-D(G Gold) - The GTX-D(R Rhodium was too bright for me, but it is a detail machine...but took forever to break in)

Best (just a hair down) - Oyaide R-1 (not the SWX series)

Really good and less expensive - Acme Audio Labs Silver plated, cryo'd, with CFC coating....really good for about $70

I'm currently using Furutech GTX-D Gold. 

.....go with the best Furutech along with their wall plates. You will not look back and I was surprised what a difference it actually made. 

I use Shunyata Z-1 cryoed outlets.  They grip tight and were around $100 each when I purchased them. All the wall outlets in my living room are by Shunyata and I use 2 dedicated 20 amp lines for the system.  All my power conditioners and power cords with one exception (Acrolink for the Esoteric player) use Various Shunyata cords.  

I've never experienced a satisfactory result after trying several hospital grade outlets over the years.

I've had good, consistent results with the product linked below. I've made the recommendation to other folks and all have been satisfied as well.

cruzeFIRST Maestro Outlet

Edit:

This armored cable is apparently MC cable. Manufacture calls it Metal Clad. Must be new. I have never seen MC cable with a bare aluminum ground wire. Junk for feeding audio equipment, imo.

I doubt very much that’s what you have. No way that could be considered as an IG conductor.

This is AC armored cable. A different animal than MC cable.

.

I think this is the armored cable used.

I hope not... That’s AC armored cable. Commonly called BX cable.

Hopefully yours in MC, (Metal Clad) Cable

https://www.southwire.com/wire-cable/metal-clad-cable/armorlite-type-mc-isolated-ground/p/MC40

https://www.southwire.com/wire-cable/metal-clad-cable/armorlite-type-mc-isolated-ground/p/69599901

.

Hi Peter, I use a pair of PS Audio PowerPort Classics. They have a fantastic grip on heavy power cords. I haven't worried about connections since I installed them in 2007. It looks like PS Audio stopped making them, but I see them for sale on HiFi Heaven website. The price is reasonable at $50 each. The Furutech GTX-D NCF(R) are quite pricey at $281 each. I hopes this helps. 

Yes, as you described, there is a green insulated wire included in the run.  I will need to open things up to see if there is also a bare copper wire for grounding the box and to confirm that the box is metal... but I know we used an armored cable running on the outside of the wall to get this additional dedicated circuit to my amps, and so the armor on the cable acts as further shielding/ground, but is not the same as the green wire (isolated) ground. 

ya, that would be a good idea. Saves a lot of guess work what the electrician used.

Don't forget to turn off the breaker. Verify the circuit is dead.

While looking inside the outlet box look for two green insulated ground wires.

Write down the number of, and colors of, all the wires in the armor cable.

Are you sure the duplex outlet(s) are IG grounding type? They are orange in color or have an orange triangle on the face plate? Like this one for example.

Here is an example of a Hubbell IG Hospital Grade duplex receptacle.

I assume your house is wood framing. Why did you go with IG outlets and IG ground. What did the electrician say about it? Or was it his suggestion?

I'm glad you didn't say the IG ground wire connects to a dedicated ground rod. That's usually the cause.

FWIW not that many IG outlets are installed these days. They really are only used in commercial and industrial facilities. They where big in the 1970s, 1980s, and into the 1990s but really dropped off in the 2000s. 

..

I think this is the armored cable used.

@jea48 Thanks for your attention.  Yes, as you described, there is a green insulated wire included in the run.  I will need to open things up to see if there is also a bare copper wire for grounding the box and to confirm that the box is metal... but I know we used an armored cable running on the outside of the wall to get this additional dedicated circuit to my amps, and so the armor on the cable acts as further shielding/ground, but is not the same as the green wire (isolated) ground. 

When I bought the house, the home grounding went to a water pipe, but the electrician added a outdoor rod. Unfortunately, I am convinced that the rod is sunk just in loose sandy soils rather than moist clayey soils, and I may look into relocating it to something with better grounding properties.

I appreciate your input - feel free to offer more.  If I buy the Furutech and want to maintain the isolated ground, I would need to snap off the metal strap that connects the ground lug to the mounting plate.  I assume this is doable???

@peter_s said:

@jea48 That’s the word I was looking for. "Isolated Ground". Thank you! Can any/all of the recommendations above be wired as isolated ground? I think this is the case if one uses a plastic box for the outlets, or uses plastic washers and screws to attach to a metal box. Agreed???

Isolated ground? Therein an insulated green wire, Equipment Grounding Conductor, EGC, that is used for the safety equipment ground contact on an IG, (Isolated Ground) type receptacle. The green insulated, isolated, EGC is ran in the same raceway or cable as the branch circuit wiring current carrying conductors to the electrical panel the branch circuit is fed from? Is that what you mean?

Not an outdoors dedicated driven ground rod?

Here is an example of a Hubbell IG Hospital Grade duplex receptacle.

Note the IG EGC  green color ground screw and contacts are insulated, isolated, from the supporting back strap and the center 6/32 threaded hub on the front of the outlet that holds on the wall cover plate.

What is the branch circuit wiring ran in? Conduit? Or a Cable like Romex?

The specialized sockets in a hospital have red plates. The pos- and neg- blades on equipment plugs are usually thicker than what you usually see and broad, so the fit is tight.  I've never seen one of those things get loose. This is making me think maybe I should rework what I have my setup plugged into, because the fit is not always that good. 

To be clear, there’s nothing good about an outlet plate, especially a metal one coming loose and at best putting the ground up or down is a prayer to the angels at best.

@peter_s  I hear you… But I would also have to construct my own cables in that case. I’m using power cables that have plugs on them.

Your attempting to improve the 'weak link' which is the connection of the PLUG its self.

None of these connection changes will give you more power/high voltage or cleaner electricity or less noise. The only reason for upgraded outlets is for reliability concerns.

Whether ANY of the solutions will give you an audible improvement is doubtful but if you want the absolute best, most reliable connection available eliminate the plug altogether.

Good luck!

@pinball101 Wouldnt I get a better connection, at least to the first outlet, by going directly into the outlet rather than creating a pigtail in the box? That’s what I was thinking and why I would Daisy chain. Because the most important outlet will be the first one where the two amplifiers are set  also, this quad installation is the end of a circuit… So I’m not too worried about other outlets further downstream.

I can't speak to the benefits of direct connection vs the pigtails in line with the connection.  But based on your configuration being at the end of the circuit, I would not bother with the pigtails either.  

I'm not familiar with the isolated grounding you are referencing so I can't speak to that either.

I confirmation of others before me, the Furutech GTX-D NCF(R) Ultimate Nano-Crystal Rhodium-Plated AC Duplex Receptacle produced an audible difference.  
In reviewing your system, I do not see power conditioning listed.  I recognize your post focuses on outlet recommendations, but consider a power conditioner within your means from Shunyata or Audience.  Well kept preowned is good.  IMHO, more of an improvement across the board than an outlet.  

In order to isolate the ground, however, would I break off the tab that wraps around one side of the unit to the ground lug? 

But why the priority for isolated grounds? Why not use Puritan groundmaster instead. Shunyata or nordost have their grounding systems also for much more money. 

@jea48 what are your thoughts on isolated grounds? 

Hubbel 5362. These come in 15 and 20 amp versions and are better made than typical outlets from Home Depot. They are all copper and are heavier duty than a typical outlet. They are under $15 each on Amazon.

They are not copper, they nickel plated brass. Of course brass is half copper. 

@gdaddy1 I hear you… But I would also have to construct my own cables in that case. I’m using power cables that have plugs on them.

@pinball101 Wouldnt I get a better connection, at least to the first outlet, by going directly into the outlet rather than creating a pigtail in the box? That’s what I was thinking and why I would Daisy chain. Because the most important outlet will be the first one where the two amplifiers are set  also, this quad installation is the end of a circuit… So I’m not too worried about other outlets further downstream.

I’m glad to see that I can Daisy chain.  In order to isolate the ground, however, would I break off the tab that wraps around one side of the unit to the ground lug? I think I have a metal box… Because the cable is armored and therefore the metal box and armored cable all provide shielding together.

The best method? Don't use a plug. Hardwire in a sealed box. Cheapest and by far the best. You could simply cut off the ends, strip the wires and solder/connect them together in a sealed box. Then you don't have to pay a rediculious amount for a more 'snug' fitting hospital outlet. Of course the outlet can easily be reinstalled with a plug outlet at any time.

I met Caelin Gabriel (principal at Shunyata) at AXPONA several years ago during a slow time, and we talked for quite a while. When outlets came up he told me the following tips:

Hospital grade outlets are not appropriate for audio because they are designed to withstand corrosion from the harsh cleaning chemicals in a medical facility. That means the the female connectors in the receptacle are made of stainless steel which does not conduct electricity as well as copper. There is no reason to have corrosian resistant sockets in your home.

Caelin said that the best commonly available receptacle for home use is the Hubbel 5362. These come in 15 and 20 amp versions and are better made than typical outlets from Home Depot. They are all copper and are heavier duty than a typical outlet. They are under $15 each on Amazon.

I have just built a house with a dedicated listening room (we are just about ready to move in) and I used 3 dedicated 20 amp circuits for the audio room with one fo them using 10 gauge wire (the other 2 use standard 12 gauge). The 10 gauge circuit will be dedicated to my Krell KSA 300S amp which draws a huge amount of power. I'm using Hubbel receptacles for each circuit.

@peter_s 

Another vote here for the Furutech GTX-D NCF(R) outlets.  I found very favorable sonic improvement of this outlet over a few other audiophile grade outlets.   

Regarding the ability to daisy chain from one Furutech to another, there are two sets of lugs to wire to on each unit.  A better way to extend to a second outlet would  be to pigtail separate leads to each outlet in the same box, or to extend the circuit to a separate box.  This way a loose connection does not affect downstream outlets.  Just did this on 1000’ of romex for four separate circuits and 22 outlets in my basement at the recommendation of my electrician.  If there is a problem with a loose connection for an outlet it will be at the outlet instead of the possibility of an upstream connection.  

Admittedly, the Furutech outlet doesn’t have the tightest connection.  But the sonic improvement easily offsets that.  
 

BTW, from experience, I’m completely against the use of rhodium plated anything in audio for two reasons: It’s not a very good conductor and it’s too hard. I’ve used rhodium plated items in everything from RCA plugs to AC.

You’d think hard was good, but when you have two hard metal objects coming into contact with each other they fail to grip very well at all. It’s bad in speaker terminals (though nickel in this case is also bad) and it makes AC plugs far too slippery.

Copper, brass, gold, silver however deform in all the right ways (they squish together) and prevent speaker terminals from becoming unscrewed and keep plugs in their sockets.

No matter what arguments they may make for audio grade outlets you’ll never convince me rhodium belongs anywhere but on jewelry.  I'll take an affordable hospital grade plug and outlet over any jewel like plugs all day long.

PS - The info I posted above related to ground pin location is not related to the NEC but falls under the category of electrician's wisdom. 

I want it to grip the plugs well. Recommendations?

Grip is one thing, the tendency of the heavy attached power cable falling out is another. Shunyata came out with their cradles for that reason.

https://shunyata.com/product/cable-cradle-wall-plate/

Viborg also has one also: Viborg outlet

Beyond the actual grip, because the cheaper brass hospital plugs do this with stronger springs and more metal, there is the issue of damaging the outer layers of metal on the plug on your expensive cable. In theory this would deteriorate the performance.

That is what is wonderful with the Furutech GTX in that its clamping system does not marr the plug end. And it sounds wonderful too.

The code is silent on the ground up ground down. Back in the knob and tube days there was a requirement that the neutral be on the left leading to the ground pin down. Today either is correct