Capacitor

Some general recommendations:

- Do NOT change the capacitance value of your capacitor. The design calculations are based on its existing value.

- DO change it as long as you are INCREASING its voltage rating. Never any harm in increasing its voltage rating.

- Do NOT *EVER* replace a bi-polar capacitor with a polar one, otherwise it may blow up.

You can change the value of an output coupling cap and do so safely and do so to better effect. But, as a general principal you want to stay near tolerances as designed.
Sometimes people violate rule no 2 above because they want to better match impedance between amp and preamp. Manufacturers usually try to pick a level that will match with a larger number of combinations yet you can customize this so the gear mates better. There are good calculators out there for this purpose.

Here’s a great calculator to use when matching output caps. 
http://www.v-cap.com/coupling-capacitor-calculator.php

I hardly ever check this forum any more but I did today and I read this entire thread.  And it reminded me why I don’t read threads here.  Same people arguing about the same topics, over and over.  Don’t you get tired of this?  You guys need to move on!

As far as what brand capacitors to purchase, the two choices for us were V-Caps and Audio Note.  In comparing Milflex copper to V-Cap Oils, we preferred the V-Caps.  The ODAMs are an excellent option and the Copper V-Caps are excellent but expensive.

Happy Listening.

cakyol 

I have a question, about, the cap located in this crossover. You know what's going on.

https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=AOaemvISUie9iqEenJQJ0DicyUgdIvgMZg:1630605881434&source=univ...

Can I use directional caps in this crossover?  Hooking the + side of the cap to the incoming  + signal and the - side (marked) in the direction towards the speaker + terminal? OR in the case of C7 where it is going + to -?

Could there be an issue for the amp in any way?

I'm not try to set you up either.. LOL I'm asking because I've used directional caps in crossovers (Vishay 160v) with wonderful results.

Actually one of the most neutral caps I've ever used other than Clarity.

I've found that resistors have a signature too.. I'd like to see some studies on that. 

The exception a LOT of boutique caps. Mundorf is about as colorful as they get. The exception being the little white Classic 630v..

What say you Mr cakyol, I was just wondering, why? Bi pole vs polarized, would it make a difference in a passive crossover? I'm cheap when it comes to 400.00 usd caps that are on the low side.. I'm a 4.00 cap guy.  40 cents is even better. :-)

Russian surplus PIO. 2.00 dollar special. Why not they sound really good?

What about Russian surplus, ANYONE? Who has used what?

Regards

Dear @charles1dad : "" So if a listener actually compared the Duelund CAST, VH ODAM and Wima capacitors and having heard them (In his components/audio system) found the Wima the least impressive he is wrong and misguided?

Wima is the only correct choice ? The other two capacitors are merely flawed, inferior, colored and distorted? It is totally irrelevant if the listener prefers the sound quality of the CAST or ODAM ? This preference is simply borne out of ignorance and lack of understanding? ...""

Answer to each one questions: NO, and NO ! but the colored and " flawed ".

Now, I experienced/first hands for years the " boutique " caps in my system and other systems and I " like " it what I was listened. Wima? no way that I thougth on them was a forbidden cap for me no matters what.

So: I was wrong? yes but the real issue is not about me or you or what I like or you like it or any one else.

The real subject is about caps and what they should do and what they must not do and the why’s it performs well or not. Tha’s why I share the first link in this thread that I was unaware of it when I started my caps thread looking for help trying to find out the: BEST NOISELESS SIGNATURELESS one, this is part of that thread title.

There I discovered WIMA/KEMET/VISHAY caps that was and is the answer for that cap thread title.

The discovery task was really hard for me because I was totally biased/married to boutique type capacitors. So I made efforts to be " unbiased " and started from " zero " with out my really big prejudices against Wima and the like.

I’m totally sure that with out that " unbiased " attitude I just can’t discovered what was in " front of me " for to many " follower " years audiophile attitude.

When I listened my first Wima through the crossover speakers what I listened I still have " present ": dullness sound with no " life ", my first thought was to forget about and return to the boutique ones but I decided to gave a few days not to the Wima caps but to my brain to " digest " that different sound I was experienced and thank's to that I started to learn what I was losting/missing with the Wima/Kemet/Vishay capacitors that existed in the boutique caps that I loved through many years and what I missed were its high COLORATIONS against the way lower colorations in the Wima cap.

R..

@salectric , how many new topics available for any audio forum? Subjective vs. objective argument never ending and futile, as is the best whatever.
Tried the Russian PIO in a Latino clone Dyanco amp some years ago, warm, inoffensive, not top tier resolution, transparency.

Dear @jbhiller  : ""  Wima  are fine caps that do a decent job and meet spec. But they do not come close to things like VCap.  ""

A just two years ago my point of view was way worst against Wima that your nice words about.

Maybe the differences in what we think in the caps specific subject could be that I think you have several years more than me to be exposed to tube electronics and I left tubes ( I was with for around 10 years. ) years ago for full SS electronics when I " discovered " SS technology to sound reproduction.

My first hand experiences and even today experiences listening to other systems with tube electronics still tell me that tubes are more colored items than today SS units. I can say more colored and noisy.  

Could be that those colored and noisy tubes performance don't let to we can listen all the real Wima quality level performance and that those tube characteristics could hide the real quality performance of the boutique caps.

When we are accustomed to some kind of colorations ( coming from tube or SS devices. ) what we want it is more of the same with " higher quality "..

Due that Wima/Kemet/Vishay are low coloration caps just does not hide the weaks in electronic/speaker designs. Wima naked those colored units, so we don't like it what we are listening with the Wimas and prefer the boutique ones.

Btw, between others I used the Teflon V-caps you are using and can't does what the Wima /Kemet/Vishay does.

R.

Raul, I get your points. Well made.  Do you work for Wima?  
Just kidding. 
I do believe I hear better signal through two of the Vcap lines and others. I agree to disagree. 

Oldhvymec

You CAN use polar capacitors as long as you connect them back to back like positives together or negatives together.  This will HALF the value of the capacitance however. So if you intend to make a resultant of 10 uF of capacitance, you will use TWO 20 uF connected back to back. 
So this is one way of kludging it.  Another point to think is the LONGEVİTY of the capacitors. Polar ones will most likely be electrolytics and will NEVER last as long as film capacitors hence adding another reason to not use polars. 

@jasbirnandra 

If you have not decided on which 3.3uF caps, here is some feedback on the ODAM in the Canary.

Ok, I have 4 x 0.01uF CuTF and 4 x 3.3uF Odams. The Odams have 12 hours time on them.

My subjective findings so far. As granny said, these caps take a very long time to break in, and to make matters worse their character swings a little during the process. Even after 12 hours solid I feel they need a lot more time. The sound would go from recessed to so far forward that it felt like it went behind me, and then back to recessed again. Too little 3D to too much 3D, back and forth. 

At first I felt a little underwhelmed by the ODAMs, but the issue is they do everything very well, so nothing stands out to "catch" your attention. It is like a steady stream of good everywhere.

Bass is very extended and sounds very firm - very good for SET amps. The top end is also nicely extend and has a very gentle but crystal clear quality. I had sibilance on a particular George Michael song - its gone; the "S", the "P" and "T" sound is still clear and pronounced. I had problems with high piano note on a Diana Krall track - the problem is gone. I hear the note perfectly - it's still loud but it's no longer offensive.

The most enjoyable for me is the mid range. Voices and strings have a remarkable lifelike quality and I can say in all honest I have never ever heard sound presented on such a neutral way. The way the strings vibrate and change in tone as they decay is as real as it gets. Fantastic.

How much is contributed by the CuTF and how much by the ODAM I cant say. I have two in each channel. 

I'll report back in another 12 - 24 hours and hopefully I get a better handle on the soundstage, which I know is what you are looking for.

Regards

PS. to those condescending folks who feel they need to tell me I am not hearing what I have heard, that I have wasted my money, or that I have behavioral health problems, please spare me. It may come as a terrible shock to you, but your "expert knowledge" is of no interest to me. 

Yes Odams require at least 60 hours before even commenting on them 😊.   They will not go downhill after 60 hours and after 100 hours you are 85% there! 

I have placed the order for the jupiter copper paper in wax 3.3uf400VDC as for the other small caps I had replaced them long time back with the rike audio S2 Al in oil caps.
I am also thinking of changing the audio theta .33uf 600VDC in the canary grand reference amp
Does changing the amp caps also make a difference

" Does changing the amp caps also make a difference"

Yes, definitely. As far as tube components go - wherever you have a cap in the signal path, replacing it higher quality cap will improve sound. DAC, amp, pre amp doesn't matter. Some may have a larger impact than others, but all will contribute. 

Let us know how you like the Jupiters.

" Yes Odams require at least 60 hours before even commenting on them 😊. They will not go downhill after 60 hours and after 100 hours you are 85% there!"

My pre is going non stop. By days end on Sunday I’ll be at 75 hours. From then I’ll resume my standard operating procedure of powering down before hitting the sack.

cakyol,

I knew you would know the answer without the chest thumpin’, and making my brain hurt.. :-)

Thanks again..

Regards

Dear @jbhiller  : ""  I do believe I hear better signal through two of the Vcap lines and others..""

Agree with you because I was seated rigth " there " and was what I like it  even " love " it too.
I was not " stupid " to spend thousands of dollar ( through several years. ) in almost all but the Jupiter caps if I was not satisfied with.
So I understand you perfectly as to the other gentlemans.

Certainly I'm not against you or any one else but only in favor of MUSIC that at the end is what really matters.


Btw,  """  tell me I am not hearing what I have heard, that I have wasted my money, or that I have behavioral health problems, ................................. but your "expert knowledge".. """

Pauly I never posted that kind of words or statement to you or any one else.

The " problem " is that exist on almost all of you a " misunderstood " of what is the main target on the overall capacitor subject.

Again, because I already posted in this thread at least 2 times,: WHAT IT MATTERS IS NOT WHAT I LIKE IT ( or any one else. ) THE MORE BUT WHAT A CAPACITOR SHOULD DOES. WHY EXIST A CAPACITOR.

So the issue are not us but the capacitor true/real operation task with foundation in evidence/facts/measures.

All the boutique caps are colored and its colorations is what makes us happy and this reality is not under discussion but fact is that caps as Wima/Kemet/Vishay with evidences performs as the caps should performs: signatureless  - lower colorations and we are not accustomed to. That's all and that explain why the OP already decided to buy what goes with his priorities.

Is he wrong? no it's not it's what he like it. Simple.

Pauly: " expert knowledge ", here you are wrong because I'm only starting to learn about caps as Wima and the like as a fact thank's to this thread I learned when I found out that first link I posted with technical information and measures that by coincidence ( I was unware of that information before this thread. ) confirm my new experiences about what those " humble " caps can shows.

R...

Raul, I’m sorry. I’m having trouble tracking your points. Sounds like you tried other caps, liked them, and later found them to add too much color. So, you went to or back to a good quality Wima cap. 
I don’t hear material colorations with VCap or ClarityCap. What I hear is better spatialization, clearer pictures, and bigger more defined images. 
One of my favorite records is Lou Rawls and Les McAnn, They Call it Stormy Monday. I’ve listened to it at least hundreds of times. With Vcaps in the signal chain I can hear Rawls move his mouth in different directions while singing into the microphone. It was so spooky on discovery as it made me hear deeper into the recording and gave a stronger sense of realism across the experience.

@jbhiller ,
Lou Rawls and Les McCann? Good taste my friend 😊.
I believe that the vast majority understand and can relate to your upgrading capacitor experiences . I’ll leave it at that. 
Charles

I too hear R as complaining about flavor of boutique caps. When I stated meh as my judgement of wima caps, what I heard was what I'd describe as electronic sounding, clean and clear, but not engaging.  I suppose I could say lacking in flavor, it had no definable character. Perhaps that's what some may judge as best cap.

They also sound flat and 2D which is an electronic artifact, not the sound intended on many good recordings. 

45 hours in and wow! Wow!

My sub is going into the trash. My sub filter was set at 30 Hz so the sub would fill only the range where my single driver BLHs could not go. But now it seems they have decided to drop down into the 20’s. I cannot believe what I am hearing.

My sub is officially unemployed. Anybody interested in a gently used Marchand XM66? 

@grannyring

Good call on the ODAMs. I know you said they need at least 80 hours but they are beginning to shine now. I cannot imagine how it can sound better, but I guess I will by tomorrow evening.

Next on the menu will be the cathode resistor bypass caps 😀

Dear @sns : " I’m generally skeptical when anyone claims objective superiority for any particular piece of audio equipment or part. So, Raul claims Wima is the most superior cap for any use. ..................... I want my caps to have a sound signature, ......... As far as other parameters of sound quality, such as transparency, resolution, more should be better. "

Wima, Kemet and Vishay manufacture a wide range of cap models for different kind of applications. It’s not that one model is for all, at least was not my intention if I posted that. I think I posted for : electronics/speakers.

Now, the specific models on each brand that I posted were selected after tested several other models in each brand even caps that in specific was not for audio but my technical level to know that for sure is to low.

Wima, Kemet and Vishay models posted has a sound signature: neutral/natural. There are not much differences in between those models.

You mentioned: " transparency and resolution... " and I said that the humble caps are: neutral/natural.

You posted: "" it had no definable character. "" Why should has that " character " a well engineering passive device? Let that for the active devices in electronics.
Active devices have its own " problems " as to add passive parts own " problems " in the manufacture electronic units. Passive parts must be not a source of distortions/colorations by it self and if the designer is looking for those " colorations/distortions " for the unit performs in adequate way then exist a severe problem in his design.

IMHO those sound characteristics belongs to the audio system designs quality performance ( including the manufacturers QC in the building its designs. ) and how that system handled both frequency extremes specially the bass range where in a home system MUSIC belongs. No, not belong to the mid range.

I don’t know which Wima models you tested and if were the same model I posted. ( same for jbhiller, grannyrings and others. ).

Please let me talk of : transparency, resolution and system noise floor where system transparency and high resolution can’t exist if the system noise floor is really really low ( that almost disappears. ).
Any system will receive high benefits ( noise floor levels ) when the owner took as a target to set up the system any kind developed distortions at MINIMUM at each link of the system chain.

I will share my first hand experiences about, this is only an example:

I own a custom made SS Phonolinepream that by design is fully balanced input to output, pure class A, fully dual mono, discrete design, non-feedback and several other very good characteristics.

Well, years ago I bought two stereo SPL pots/attenuators ( Elma mechanism. ) that were in a box and never opened/used.

My unit comes with two Elma true hole Vishay resistors and I was really happy with.
Two years ( I think. ) ago I remember I own those pots that came with SMD resistors and decided to change instead the originals and I did it and with the whole system on the first " sound " ( with out playing nothing, no signal through. ) I listened was a " dead silence " as I never experienced ( normally I listened by nigth where the room noise floor is lower than in the afternoon. ): the system noise floor gone lower with that simple change.

What happened when put I the first LP recording and gone to my seat position?; I was totally disappointed because both frequency extremes " gone ", even I listened as the normal SPL where the potswere and that I did not change with the new pots and for me the SPL gone down and I followed my listening session nad measured the SPL and for my surprise still the same. My impression over all that session did not changed.

At the middle of next night session took in count what was happening because all the MUSIC was THERE but with way lower distortions and with higher system resolution than before.

Yes, the SMD resistors made it.

That same experience I had and have with my cap " voyage/adventure " and I posted in my cap thread.

Those kind of experiences ar nothing less than overwhelming, outstanding and makes a real difference in any well designed system, no doubt about.

Through the humble caps sessions I was not totally sure if that noise floor goes down and I return to the boutiques caps and guess what : noise floor goes up and resolution/transparency gone down !.

This is not something that only experienced by me but for other gentlemans too.

Well I have to with my family. Have a good week end and find out if you own a high resolution system and if you are satisfied with that resolution levels.

Yes, we own different electronic technology items but our priorities seems to me is the same: MUSIC and its rigth reproduction or near it.


Yes, my system has very high resolution and ceratinly it's not 2D or lifeless but the other way around. When you are listen to it you don't want to stop you don't want to stop all the feelings and emotions that what you are listening is wake up in you and that only MUSIC can do it.

R.

@pauly,
Congratulations! Glad to hear the ODAMS capacitors worked out so well for you. No longer feel the need for your subwoofer? Now that's impressive!😊
Charles 

@charles1dad

I ended up pulling the cable just to be sure it was really off!

I’m a little overwhelmed. In the past 3 to 4 hours I have not listened to a single track without noticing something I never did before. This is the biggest bump in sound I have had that I can recall.

I suspect the previous caps were particularly bad and holding the system back and the VCaps are letting it through now?

PS. the upgrade was 2xCuTF and 2xODAM per channel. The CuTF were done a week before and I think they were hamstrung by the OEM caps and only showing their stuff now. 

…. aaaaaand my battery has just died. Bummer. 

@rauliruegas Sound character is not necessarily distortion or higher noise floor. I hear lower noise floor and definite sound signature with various boutique caps.
I have no problem with belief wima or any capacitor is YOUR favorite, to suggest they or any cap is objectively best is problematic. I'd just say, prove wima or whatever  cap is objectively best. I believe it when you say wima superior to boutique caps in your system and your ears/brain. They simply aren't in my system and for my brain/ears.

The constant harping on bests of anything in audio is so tiresome and without merit. Taken within the context of our brains, ears, rooms, AC quality, system individuality, whatever else I'm forgetting, I cannot make with even minimal certainty an objective evaluation of your audio system listening experience. Anyone can make any assertion about all kinds of things, it would be nice to see proof for the objective assertions.

In my experience, in my opinion, in comparison to are some stated conditions that promote more confidence and validity to persons making assertions of various kinds. Finally, having open mind in regard to posts stating these conditions may help one in evolving their system. I understand you met the comparison condition, but you then go on to state wima or whatever cap you should be regarded as best based on your experience. I've never regarded my favorite whatever part or audio equipment should be accepted as an objective best.

Quality should not be understood simply as judgmental term, rather it should be understood in regard to audio as a term to explain the qualities  of the sound we are hearing, . Not everything needs to be understood as being on a linear graph of worst to best.
All audiophiles should read Robert Pirsig's novel, 'Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance' more than once in their life. Being mindful of wisdom of this book will bring much greater pleasure in one's system and deter assertions of superior knowledge. Focusing on qualities rather than qualitative judgements will allow one to have greater pleasure in present system, and better evaluation of present system for incremental improvement. And most important for audio forums, these silly assertions that one is singularly in possession of some audio truth.

@sns, 
Very well stated.
Charles 

+1 @sns 

The guy makes MC sound modest. 

Then you haven’t been paying enough attention to his ego driven drivel….

just an objective thought about WIMA based on conversations with two notable designers of top rated gear at Munich. They both know how to get the best out of them including trade secrets. There is a lot more to it than just part substitutes….
Not expecting to change any minds…
Have fun, enjoy the music…

Wilma, Kemet.. sound totally dull, flat, 2D.
Good caps do not add colorations - they show you the limitations of your system through a magnifying glass

@tomic601

Then you haven’t been paying enough attention to his ego driven drivel….

Surely you’re not faulting me for scrolling past anything and everything he posts? 😂🤣

Dear @sns  : Seems to me that you read my posts but " not  really read it.

You posted :

   "" it had no definable character. ""  and I told you:


""  Why should has that " character " a well engineering passive device? Let that for the active devices in electronics.  ""

and told you that W/K/V caps are: neutral/natural. But still you don't give a specific answer to that question and is critical for this dialogue.

Normally electronic manufacturers are not looking for passive parts with that " character/coloration " ( that are, like it or not: distortions.  ) but for neutral/natural and accurate devices. I participated in the design/manufacture of my custom made SS phonolinepreamp where all parts ( active/passive ) were not only measured through a friend of my friend in an University but listened by us and beta audiophiles.

Accuracy is the name of the game in electronic designs/manufacture. Accuracy does not means analithic but that choosed passive/active devices/parts in the design be accurate to defined specs losting and adding the less to the audio signal that pass through it.
If what they choosed are non-accurated against they targets then will try to find out what it is or choose for the best trade-offs for their designs.

Yes, the electronic final unit has its own character/signature due to all the several variables in the different stages and that the parts/devices are not " perfect " are not 100% accurated.

Those sound characteristics that you look for as transparency and resolution ( between others. ) does not comes from colored passive parts or passive parts that develops by it self any kind of distortions but from whole accurated parts in the overall audio system and  not by a passive part as you try  to impply/explain.

Btw, MUSIC is accurated that's why exist tone or semi-tones  and the like ina pentagram. If in a group/band/orchestra one or more players are out of tone you can be sure you will listen it and that is not a coloration but a distortion against the whole orchestra: is out of tone, tone is accuracy.

Fundamental notes and harmonics are developed with accuracy that you can't change it. It's the natural flavor color of the MUSIC that's what we listen at a live event.


"" I don’t know which Wima models you tested and if were the same model I posted. ""

Could you share which W caps tested?


In your posted next statements I can see part of your targets that could explain your bias/attitude on the subject:


"*"* I want my caps to have a sound signature..........." and definite sound signature with various boutique caps *"



You just posted this:

"  "" it would be nice to see proof for the objective assertions. ""

Well 99% of SS electronics designs use W/K/V and around 80% of tubes does it from Lamm to other humble units.

Additional to that you can read again the technical/measures information that comes in that link.
Probably in your electronics comes some W devices.

Btw, I can see in your system your analog rig with the Sp-10 very good TT, a prety decent Jelco tonearm  and what looks as a cartridge from the 103 family. At least in that analog rig and with all respect to you high resolution/transparency or other MUSIC characteristics can't exist but at very low quality levels. Additional could be important to you know which is your phono stage RIAA eq. deviation that maybe could be around 0.5db to over 1db and the swing of the RIAA deviation on those levels is totally unaccurated.


"""  """" Quality should not be understood simply as judgmental term, rather it should be understood in regard to audio as a term to explain the qualities of the sound we are hearing """"


So you are talking of your room/audio system and I have some far away " idea " how could performs when the audio signal not only pass through tubes but a lot of transformers, this audio signal go a cross " miles " of a tortuose path, maybe I'm wrong and is transparent, with high resolution and with the natural color of MUSIC.


" one is singularly in possession of some audio truth. "

I'm in possesion not of an audio ruth, only shared  some kind of facts and information in the cap subject.



This is what other gentleman posted and that I take as if I did it:


""  Good caps do not add colorations - they show you the limitations of your system through a magnifying glass  ""


R.

The Duelund tinned copper is excellent ,slightly better then the Jupiter copper foil but only in a few areas not all ,a bit more top end resolution , the Odam I removed for the Jupiter in preamp section more realism and 
depth of instrument and tone in my system ,if you are using vacuum tubes 
then you may like the vh Odam cap. There is no Best capacitor 
For  every situation from many builds especially with speakers and many DIY guys I know .
the Duelund being Waay to big for many situations, and waay 
over priced for a small % improvement vs the Jupiter copper foil IMO.
the vh audio CU Teflon copper has the best resolution of any capacitor out there ,but very $$ but good to use as a bypass cap.

R, you continue to claim all boutique caps colored and distorted. W/K/V no coloration, only accurate. So, everyone using colored boutique caps has defective equipment which requires colored, distorted boutique caps to sound natural. So, now we've gone from best caps to best equipment which you seem to have exclusive possession of here. So, we mere mortals with defective equipment can't appreciate the accuracy of your chosen cap.
There can be no dialogue with you,  you have the best ears, equipment and caps. Be happy in your delusion, I'm ok with you believing that. Why can't you let us be happy in our sad delusion?  This thread is about why and what we like our chosen caps, not making claims of a single best cap. Your posts rightfully belong in thread attempting to offer proof of an objectively best cap. See how many respond to that, should be a real fun thread.

@audioman58 

“but good to use as a bypass cap.”

Any value in bypassing an ODAM with a CuTF? I have a couple of CuTFs lying around.

Reducing the value not a good idea ,when engineered the UF needs to be the same in s amp,preamp, in a loudspeaker 
maximum different change under3%
bypass caps for small  values very common to use .01 uf 
the vh audio Cu Copper Teflon are excellent as PauL mentioned
the VH CU is superior to the Odam  and can be used values .01 
are typically used in the HF range,but can put on a midrange also.

I would not use a bypass cap in a crossover. Don’t think they sound right in this application. Makes the sound sort of nervous. One great cap is better. Bypass caps are great in power supplies and SOMETIMES in coupling and output positions. It depends on the combo of caps used. 

Odam and Cutf sound wonderful together in electronics.  The .01uf Cutf combined with a .22-3 uf Odam works great.  You get a little more air and detail.  
I personally prefer the sound of Odam over the Cutf used alone. The Cutf is just too lively and exposing for  my tastes. This is a personal preference thing for me however. 

@grannyring 

Are you talking speaker or electronics, or both? 

I used Duelund  JDM-AG bypass on Jupiter VT in my crossovers to good effect. Affected all freq. a little more insight, like lowering noise floor.

My post spelled that out if you go back and look at it. Bypassing does not always work well.  Trial and error at best. Some combos don’t sound quite right. I know Odam and Cutf work well in electronics.  I don’t like bypassing in crossovers as often times the result while impressive at first, more air and details, in the end can sound a tad nervous and not quite right.  Bypassing with film caps in power supplies with electrolytic caps is most always a nice plus.  

Dear @sns  and gentlemans : ""  W/K/V no coloration, only accurate. So, everyone using colored boutique caps has defective equipment which requires colored, distorted boutique caps to sound natural.  ""

Your words not mine. Tha's not the capacitor issue.

""   you have the best ears, equipment and caps  ""

Never posted that in this or other threads any where.

The boutique cap subject is similar to the boutique fuse one where the audiophiles convinced  by ( like me. I used those fuses too. ) use it as tone control/equalizers.
So it's totally normal that all internet " oficial " caps wider comparisons speak not of the true work for what caps were " invented " when using in copupling/filter tasks ow whatever. Yes, no where does comparisons speak which caps make the best technical measured job but the other way around: only speak of differences in tone characteristics when a cap must be neutral doing its task.
Is even " crazy " to see speaker crossover with 4-5-6 different brand of caps ( in electronics that could be because is different down there. ).

Other " weird " fact is that all the boutique caps need from 50 to over 250 hours to settle down ( to shine. ) and the " weird " issue is that in the site of manufacturers do not exist a simple chart/diagram how the cap measures after 5 hours and the huge differences after 100 hours. ! ! ?

Yes, I know that that makes sense to you because you already " experienced " that " fact ". No, W/K/V does not needs 100 hours to " shine ".

""  This thread is about why and what we like our chosen caps..""

Well my understand according the OP thread statement is that he was looking for an upgrade through cap changes.

Almost all of you just do not likes and feel " unconfortable " when some one as me post a totally different well founded " information " that was is your point of view. Yes, I know I'm not welcomed and is ok with me.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.



 

I agree with Millercarbon! Good advice. 

@grannyring

Yes you did. Apologies my train of thought went a little haywire. 

I have in the past also found bypassing on a coupling cap position can have unexpected results, but it’s generally been a mixed bag.

I do like the sound of my pre, much much more now after the VCaps. But the fact that it has 4 caps per side in the signal path is concerning, so further optimizing these is something I believe is worthwhile considering.

Yes indeed. Agreed. The Cutf .01uf and Odam do make magic together in electronics such as your Pre. I use the combo all the time in Orchid dac upgrades.  

There are a bunch of very good caps ,I have over 20 years between electronics ,and Loudspeakers , I have  Vh Odams in a dac. And in a speaker ,very good capacitors . Millflex copper paper poly oil caps very respectable .
but, I find Jupiter copper foil caps outstanding in image depth tone and Bass not perfect but very good on top , the best bypass capacitors higher then 100 volts 
Are without question the VH audio CU -Copper Teflon caps which are VH Audio best capacitors .I mixed roughly 2+% ,to the Jupiter
copper foil coupling caps in the preamplifier ,A great combination now it is open airy and have excellent precision as well as very natural musicality .
personally I like better then  any capacitor out there including Duelund .
everyone has a opinion but unless you have tried this combination ,you are missing a special combination.

I’ve committed to ODAMs so Jupiters are not in my future, but @jasbirnandra may be interested as he said he is going Jupiter.

I’m now pondering sizing the bypass. I see suggestions of 0.01uF and also 1% to 2%, which would be 0.033uF to 0.068uF.

I’m a "go big or go home" person, so I’m considering trying a single pair of 0.068uFs. If the sound gets a little zippy, I’ll leave the 2nd pair of ODAMs un-bypassed.

👍

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here its specs in page 6:

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Have fun and be truly happy.


R.


@audioman58  I had for 3-4 months a Coda amplifier and are really good, unfortunatelly a manufacturer with low profile but very good one.