Synergistic Red Fuse ...
Any comments from anyone else who has tried these fuses?
I suspect it might be best to write failures like this off to, "that’s the way the cookie crumbles." 🍪 Failure to obtain expected results can occur - and have occurred - for just about every device ever conceived. And these failures to achieve expected results often generate a certain amount of angst and confusion, especially when they occur for something that's got a lot of buzz going for it. 🐝 Like the Black fuse or the new Blue fuse. There are many perfectly good reasons why these failures can occur; and those reasons have been thoroughly covered by your humble scribe ad infinitum. |
I have to a agree with Frank’s last post. Given the pedigree of @veerapaneni components, i am finding it hard to understand as well. I was able to hear immediate improvements over a stock fuse in my system. May be he was expectating improvements equivalent to those that comes from a equipment upgrade :-) |
Whoa! Hey, that’s exactly what they said about the Black fuse when a couple regulars reported hearing nothing on these very pages. (Say, whatever became of Mapman, anyway?) No matter how many audiophiles go bananas 🍌 over one thing or another you don’t have to look too far to find somebody who doesn’t hear a gol durn thing. It happens all the time. That’s why controversial audiophile thingamabobs abound. Maybe the dude got a dud. 😛 |
Joe (Jafreeman), yes, the reason I asked about the subs is that connecting a sub to the outputs of amplifiers that are balanced or bridged or monoblocks can be tricky, and I’ve seen a lot of posts here in which people have described doing that in an incorrect manner, at least from a theoretical standpoint. Although in many cases the results are still reasonably good, due mainly to the happenstance of the internal grounding configurations of the sub and the amp. And in the case of your particular sub the issue is further muddled by inconsistent and misleading statements in the manual, which I found at this link: https://relsupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/115015632767/REL-ST-Series-Manual.pdf In various places the manual refers to using the sub’s balanced input for amps having balanced outputs or differential outputs or bridged outputs, or various combinations thereof. And in at least one case it refers to "differential output (bridged mode) amplifiers," which is completely misleading. In this case, since it is a fully balanced amp it has a differential output, and the amp’s negative output terminal therefore has a full amplitude signal on it. By connecting the sub’s ground wire to that terminal you are creating a path for that full amplitude signal to the sub’s circuit ground, then through some unknown but probably low impedance within the sub to the sub’s AC safety ground, then through the AC wiring to the amp’s AC safety ground, then through some unknown but probably low impedance within the amp to the amp’s circuit ground. In other words, not quite a direct short of that full amplitude output of the amp to the amp's circuit ground, but a connection of that signal to the amp's circuit ground through what is likely to be a relatively low impedance. Which depending on the particular impedances that exist between circuit ground and AC safety ground in the sub and the amp might degrade sonics, cause hum, or even damage the resistors that probably connect those two grounds in each component. The right way to do it is stated on page 18 of the manual: For differential amplifiers using two subs, one for each channel: connect red to positive; yellow to negative; and black to chassis ground; plug the Speakon into the balanced high level input (Bal Hi Input).The "chassis ground" connection can be to any screw on the chassis of the amp, assuming that paint doesn’t interfere with the connection. As I indicated, compared to what you are presently doing there may or may not be all that much difference sonically, depending mainly on the internal grounding characteristics of the sub and the amp. But this is the right way to do it. Finally, when you try this you may find (depending on the design of the sub’s balanced input circuit) that the output of the sub increases by 6 db, and if so you’ll have to reduce its level setting correspondingly. Getting back to fuses, regarding your mention that... ... the front-panel display on each amp now reads at 120-121V, whereas at lower fuse ratings, the line voltage was at around 117V. The operating range of the ARC 210’s is 105V-130V.That’s certainly surprising, but what I can say with certainty is that if the 7 or 8 amp fuses were dropping 3 to 4 volts, not to mention 3 to 4 volts more than the 10 amp fuse is dropping, while conducting the more than 3 amperes the amp draws even when idle, the fuse itself would be dissipating (consuming) upwards of 10 watts of power, converting it to heat, and promptly melting. Therefore I suspect that either the line voltage has changed, or the fuse holder has loose or corroded contacts, or the meter on the amp is erratic, or some combination thereof. Best regards, -- Al |
I continue find some of the descriptions of the degree of improvement that "special" fuses provide in the systems of the proponents of these things unbelievable, especially since a new round of claims of MORE wonderfulness is begat by the New Blues. It's a FUSE (a safety related device that's supposed to MELT if need be), and until some rational explanation is provided as to WHY and HOW these things "massage the juice" before it runs through the power supplies and all the other caps, resistors, transformers, rectifiers, tubes, transistors and every other part of an audio component's circuits, I'll continue to hold the opinion I've had since doing my own little test of the black version of these things…they're a silly and possibly dangerous (sketchy fuse ratings) waste of time and money when compared to less precious (like ultra reliable way less expensive Littelfuse products) "standard" fuses. Unbelievable. |
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Jay ... That is fine, but useless. That is what I was saying. You're more likely to meet God or the devil, than have it happen in your lifetime. The new BLUE fuses have brought everything up to a new, and unexpected level. I was just listening to Charlie Mingus’ "Tijuana Moods." I don’t care what others are saying ... they were in the room. *lol*. ....... Hopefully I am not being lumped in with that group. I have one on order. I just hope it's not less transparent, like your writing indicates to me. |
wolf_garcia: I continue find some of the descriptions of the degree of improvement that "special" fuses provide in the systems of the proponents of these things unbelievable, especially since a new round of claims of MORE wonderfulness is begat by the New Blues. It’s a FUSE (a safety related device that’s supposed to MELT if need be), and until some rational explanation is provided as to WHY and HOW these things "massage the juice" before it runs through the power supplies and all the other caps, resistors, transformers, rectifiers, tubes, transistors and every other part of an audio component’s circuits, I’ll continue to hold the opinion I’ve had since doing my own little test of the black version of these things…they’re a silly and possibly dangerous (sketchy fuse ratings) waste of time and money when compared to less precious (like ultra reliable way less expensive Littelfuse products) "standard" fuses. Unbelievable. And despite being a "waste of time," you are still in this thread. 🙄 All of the information needed to understand audiophile fuses is out there. It is just either going over your head, or going in one "ear" and out the other. It’s time for you to do further reading, as until you have that "ah hah" moment as to the reasoning, even someone explaining things to you with kiddie gloves will be lost on you. |
Jay23 ... With respect, I'm not trying to lump you into any group. Here in my place, the performers sound like they are in the room ... at least to my ears. I've used the phraseology "in the room" for many years to describe what I hear. Are they actually in the room? No. Have I actually been transported into the recording venue? No. But then there are the times when I kick back and close my eyes ... :-) It behooves us all to remember that this hobby is supposed to be about fun. As far as my writing being "transparent," what exactly does it "indicate" to you? When you get the new BLUE fuse, please post your results here. Thanks ... Frank |
And despite being a "waste of time," you are still in this thread. 🙄 He's for the same reason as Al and others are, to give honest technical views to the gullible who may be sucked into this snake oil/voodoo. EG: picking up 3-4v of mains voltage, this is laughable, as are other improvement statements. Cheers George |
Jay23 ... I did not say your writing is transparent. What you've written indicates to me that the Blue fuse is less transparent than the Black, while reducing more distortion. It appears that the low level highs have been removed along with the noise. The loss of low level ambient cues will create more of an "in the room" sound. There's nothing wrong with this. Many prefer it. It's just like how when highs are cut in level, psychoacoustics deems that objects will sound further from you. This may be preferred by a group of people, but it is a coloration. This doesn't make the audio products that do this lesser, just less accurate. For those that love it, those products could be their holy grail. To put it another way, sugar can be put on a piece of fruit. Some will say it's more delicious and sweeter. This doesn't make it more natural. Better or worse? That's up to the individual. Hopefully the Blues end up being more transparent. I will see... 😎 |
georgehifi And despite being a "waste of time," you are still in this thread. 🙄 To which georgehifi replied, "He’s for the same reason as Al and others are, to give honest technical views to the gullible who may be sucked into this snake oil/voodoo." Gosh, you mean like Catcher in the Rye? That’s no <sniff> touching. 😩 Let’s drink to the hard working gatekeepers. 🍻 Sniff sniff |
Jay23 .... Thank you for clarifying ... much appreciated. :=) Actually, there seems to be more transparency and the highs are extended further than with the BLACK fuses. Not as much as with the bass though. I think I’ve gained an octave or so in the bass. I’ve had two audiophile friends over on separate occasions to hear the difference the BLUE fuses have made in the system and both had the same comment ... "your system has become seamless." On rolling off the highs ... I know recording engineers roll off highs while transferring analog tapes to digital CD’s to get rid of the tape hiss. I don’t like recordings like that. I’ll take the hiss and keep the highs. verapsaneni .... If it were me and I didn’t hear any difference, I’d return the fuse for a replacement and try again. You may have gotten a dud if such a thing exists. These are just too good for you to not hear the improvement. Frank |
oregonpapa wrote, "On rolling off the highs ... I know recording engineers roll off highs while transferring analog tapes to digital CD’s to get rid of the tape hiss. I don’t like recordings like that. I’ll take the hiss and keep the highs." Please someone tell me that’s not true. Mainly because if they rolled off the highs above the frequency of tape hiss there wouldn’t be any highs at all. There would be no air. I’m in deep kim chi if that actually is true since oh, I don’t know, something like 98% of all my CDs are taken from analog tapes. Since tape hiss is primarily in the spectrum 4,000 to 5,000 Hz the engineers would have to start the roll off well below 4,000 Hz to be effective, no? |
The hiss reduction functionality that is provided these days in professional audio editing programs works in a far more sophisticated manner than simply rolling off the highs. For example, the user can define a very brief segment or segments of the material in which there is no music, allow the program to sample and analyze the hiss during those moments, and by taking advantage of modern computing horsepower "subtract it out" from the musical passages. Of course, that is not to say that there won’t be undesirable side-effects. There certainly can be, but to a greater or lesser degree depending on the judgment, musical sensibilities, and expertise of the user. And more specifically on how judiciously he or she adjusts the numerous settings that are involved in using any such program, and on how aggressive he or she chooses to be in minimizing the hiss. And depending also, of course, on the nature of the material and the amount of hiss that is present to begin with. Regards, -- Al |
Al you are probaby aware one can do their own digital mastering at home quite effectively and for free with a tool like Audacity. I use Audacity these days to digitally remaster all my audio files I convert from vinyl or tape. Some ripped from CD as well. Mostly I do click removal with vinyl source and data normalization in general for better dynamics but targeted noise removal is possible as well. Results are clear and distinct. Need not be a fuse lover to hear them. |
"All of the information needed to understand audiophile fuses is out there." It is? Because it's certainly not in here! And not in the minds of most audio engineers and modern gear designers either. SR's gibberish about "Quantum" something or other certainly doesn't explain anything, and their apparent need to mention imaginary patents (a lie conveniently ignored by the "Fusers," as it simply doesn't fit into their SR worship format) doesn't either. Remember, you're entitled to your own opinion, but not to your own facts. I don't consider my posts to be a waste of time as clearly I enjoy poking the Bear of Mythology, and shall continue to do so in the face of this steaming heap of nonsense because I can. |
Again Wolfie ... there are those of us who really don't give a damn how these things work, only that they do. Instead of going through life doubting everything, I prefer to just kick back and enjoy. Pull out your moth infested wallet and pay for one of the new fuses. If you don't like it, get yer money back and yer only out the cost of shipping. Frank PS: I don't care about patents either. And ... I believe you're the only one talking about them. Did Ted Denney mention patents? |
He's for the same reason as Al and others are, to give honest technical views to the gullible who may be sucked into this snake oil/voodoo. Wow! "Technical views?" Have you done any measurements of audiophile fuses, for their resistance, impedance, distortion, and so forth? No? 🤔 At least Geoff has provided measurements of another brand. But they were swept under the rug by your so called "technical views." Measurements only matter when you say they matter. Yes, that's very objective and scientific. 🙄 You should all buy some Revel Ultima2s, a Benchmark DAC3, and whatever amp measures the best, and enjoy your measured sound and cheap cables. 😜 |
wolf_garcia: "All of the information needed to understand audiophile fuses is out there." It is? Because it's certainly not in here! And not in the minds of most audio engineers and modern gear designers either. SR's gibberish about "Quantum" something or other certainly doesn't explain anything, and their apparent need to mention imaginary patents (a lie conveniently ignored by the "Fusers," as it simply doesn't fit into their SR worship format) doesn't either. Remember, you're entitled to your own opinion, but not to your own facts. I don't consider my posts to be a waste of time as clearly I enjoy poking the Bear of Mythology, and shall continue to do so in the face of this steaming heap of nonsense because I can. Some or all of it has been mentioned in this thread. For instance, the patent for "UEF Technology" is the paint. You're just a little, shall we say, obtuse. 😉 |
Jay23 9-29-2017 As a point of information, I had said as follows in a post in this thread dated 9-23-2017: The Blue’s description at the SR website states in part as follows: Mr. Denney’s acoustic paint patent is one of those four. Also, FWIW, Mr. Denney responded in this thread a few hours after a request was posted for someone to identify the patent referred to in the Blue Fuse description, and for whatever reason he did not address that question. Finally, and also FWIW, it should not be forgotten in this discussion that Wolfie did in fact try several of the Black fuses in several different components, with the result being no significant benefit and two of them blowing. Regards, -- Al |
Jay23 9-29-2017 Yes, and you didn't make the connection. As Sir Arthur Conan Doyle stated, "There is nothing more deceptive than an obvious fact." It should be clear. Your own post/comment has the three key words. A patent need not discuss every usage and effect. Ted Denney can wax poetic. "A rose by any other word would smell as sweet." Yes, Wolfie claims to have tried the Black fuses. And by the "technical views" logic, we can say his system is not resolving enough, he is deaf, his listening skills are subpar, and/or his beloved tubes create too much distortion. See how fun that is. 😁 If people don't hear a difference, they can send the products back, and they save money. I see no reason to harp on things that you will not agree with, when any technical reasonings will be dismissed. |
I don’t suppose it would further the discussion to say the Synergistic verbiage sounds like so much gobbledegook, would it? Not to mention their description of how electricity works on their new Blue Fuse page. As I opined earlier sometimes it's better for a manufacturer not (rpt not) to offer an explanation. |
I have now tested Padis fuses and the new SR Blue. I had a $2.50 fuse in my Raven Tube amp before. Yes I experienced an upgrade in performance when I went to the Padis fuse. After installing the SR Blue both ways, I DID NOT experience any uptick in performance from the Padis. I get more performance when I change out my various Russian tubes. I doubt it is a defective Blue fuse. Maybe my equipment just performs better as is. I played Lumineers, Louis Armstrong / Ella Fitzgerald, Mahavishnu Orchestra and Michael Hedges as part of my test. |
@willgolf, Thanks for the update on the SR Blue fuse. For me, it's nice to hear that you didn't hear an improvement over the PADIS fuse since that's what I have and I'd need to replace 5 of them. 😩 I truly feel that these PADIS fuses offer real value not only over a standard fuse but easily compete with the other aftermarket brands and all at their $25 asking price. Just let the PADIS continue to break in as I'm still getting improvements with mine. All the best, Nonoise |
@willgolf - thanks for the feedback on the PADIS and BLUE. There could be a couple of things going on here. One is that the tube amp may not be high resolution enough to reveal any slight differences between PADIS and BLUE (I'm not saying this is true, I'm only saying it is a theory). In my experience, the very high resolution equipment can reveal differences. In stuff that is lower resolution or warmer voiced, the differences between elements such as fuses or interconnects are more difficult to see and sometimes impossible. Having no experience with your specific tube amp, I cannot be sure. The other one is that, in my experience, the differences in fuses for amplifiers have much less impact than fuses in preamp/source equipment. I think that part of it is the fuses in the amps have a larger internal fusewire (because of higher amp rating) and the nature of fuse composition has less influence in amps. In any case, a fuse will still have an influence on an amplifier's sonic signature, it is just much less of an influence a fuse would have in a preamp/DAC. The final option would be that there is no discernible difference between PADIS/Futurech and BLUE fuses. I think more testing with different types of equipment would have to be done before we came to this conclusion. |
Many have said that you should install the fuse and if it does not sound good reverse it and it is now in the correct direction. What if, like other audio gear, the initial listening isn't indicative of its true character? That is, how can you be sure that what sounds not quite right on first listen isn't in fact in the correct direction and will produce the best sound after break in? |
Jetter, that’s why - in most cases - one does not evaluate equipment immediately any more than one would assess a speaker system after 30 hours. I was trained to play music through a component for weeks, and if you have ever read The Absolute Sound, you would recall that they did the same thing for weeks. Amps, preamps, speaker cable, power cords. Everything. I clearly remember Andy Benjamin’s review of Audio Research’s Classic 60 amp, way back in the day. He was appalled by the sound of it out of the box, and it took weeks for the amp to fully burn in, and for him to hear its virtues. Shunyata cable is the same: it takes hundreds of hours to break in (Shunyata demurs on this), but the owners almost universally state otherwise (including me). And God forbid you move the cable around and then listen to it immediately: you have to wait an hour or two for it to "settle." Sound ridiculous? Perhaps, but nonetheless, that’s the reality. I didn’t always know that, especially about Shunyata (I don’t know if everyone’s cables work that way, but Shunyata’s sure do!), but I know if after 15 years of owning their cables, power cords, etc. And I have friends with better ears who have good systems, who will come over and listen, too, and they can hear it as well. And I don’t tell them what to expect. I just let them listen. Some of this is VERY esoteric, but that’s why the non-believers state it’s "hysteria," "hogwash," etc.. Of course, they say this with little-to-no personal experience, or a one-time listen on a poorly set up system at a dealer’s "who has a $200,000 system," they proclaim loudly, as though that means it is well set up. I know otherwise about setup (and the setup can kill even the best electronics and speakers’ ability to deliver the optimum performance). Poor electrical isolation can mask differences, too. The same thing applies to fuses. I don’t know why, but I imagine Synergistic allows a 30-day guarantee because they KNOW it will take time for the fuse to break in. I wonder why other manufacturers of fuses don’t do the same. It would certainly provide assurances for the Doubting Thomases, although some people are simply unwilling to trust ANYthing. That’s their prerogative, but it sounds exhausting, not to mention depressive in nature. I will listen initially, wander in and out of my music room, and then listen again seriously, at, say, 200 hours, and then - if I am missing certain aspects of the sonics I KNOW should be there from having owned the disc for 30 years - reverse the fuse to see how it sounds and then give it time in that (reversed) direction, although I can usually determine where the human voice (unamplified) is displaying its full harmonic palette. Voice is, I find, the easiest way of determining correct orientation, but yes, it does take time. But it helps to use discs you know really, really, really well, vinyl OR CD. You can’t pull some new CD or LP that you haven’t used over the course of years and thru several different components in YOUR OWN SYSTEM and expect to make experienced observations. And even after I’ve tested the new component (in this case, the fuse), I will still take it out and re-insert a previous generation of the same company’s fuse, let IT warm up for a few hours (or, if I’m REALLY unsure, days) and see if the voice is missing information and/or harmonics. Some people don't have the time or the patience, and I understand that. They would also not be hired to write for audio magazines. That requires curiosity, patience, a little skepticism, and a love of music above all. And even then, one can make a mistake. But at least the whole experiment has been conducted in as scientific a manner as is possible. And that's all anyone can ask. |
I've only had experience with HiFi Tuning Silver Star and PADIS fuses and in both cases, reversing them gave me much better sound. The HiFI fuses were in for almost two years and the PADIS fuses were in for only three days and in both cases, they displayed the same deficiency in regards to how they sounded: rolled off highs, an out of phase focus and a one note bass, among other things. I was never in the camp in regards to directionality which is why I waited so long to do it the first time around. With the PADIS fuses, I immediately suspected they were in the wrong direction but gave them three days to see if things cleared up, but they didn't and reversing them improved things considerably. It would appear to me that hearing something amiss the first time around should at least prompt someone to simply flip the fuse. There will be time needed to break in but even at first listen, you should be able to tell. All the best, Nonoise |
I expect vitriol about my personal hearing ability, my tube amp (I tested the SR blacks in a SS amp also…but mostly in a push pull tube amp), my questioning Denney's patent claims (if someone claims something is patented and it's not, that goes to their credibility unless their worshippers don't mind utter nonsense, which seems to be the case), and I get that. Religious people don't like my atheism either, and I see similarities when magic thinking is involved in anything. My basic beef with Oregonpapa and other Fusers is simple: Claiming that the FUSE has such a transformative and obvious effect on the sound of your gear heap is simply not believable, and when you understand why fuses are there in the first place, simply as a safety item protecting your stuff from catastrophic failure, it seems very strange indeed. The main reason I'm harping about technical explanations of this "magic" isn't due to being obsessed with technical explanations, it's simply because in the case of "special" fuses, there are none…a conspicuous absence. None. A scam by SR to sell an item to gullible fans at an insane profit seems to be working well, and since it's only judged by subjective opinion I'm offering exactly that…me and most high end gear manufacturers. |
Many have said that you should install the fuse and if it does not sound good reverse it and it is now in the correct direction. What if, like other audio gear, the initial listening isn't indicative of its true character? That is, how can you be sure that what sounds not quite right on first listen isn't in fact in the correct direction and will produce the best sound after break in? I seem to recall Ted Denney saying to try switching the direction, after the fuse is broken-in. Go with what sounds best. |
I expect vitriol about my personal hearing ability, my tube amp (I tested the SR blacks in a SS amp also…but mostly in a push pull tube amp), my questioning Denney's patent claims (if someone claims something is patented and it's not, that goes to their credibility unless their worshippers don't mind utter nonsense, which seems to be the case), and I get that. Religious people don't like my atheism either, and I see similarities when magic thinking is involved in anything. My basic beef with Oregonpapa and other Fusers is simple: Claiming that the FUSE has such a transformative and obvious effect on the sound of your gear heap is simply not believable, and when you understand why fuses are there in the first place, simply as a safety item protecting your stuff from catastrophic failure, it seems very strange indeed. The main reason I'm harping about technical explanations of this "magic" isn't due to being obsessed with technical explanations, it's simply because in the case of "special" fuses, there are none…a conspicuous absence. None. A scam by SR to sell an item to gullible fans at an insane profit seems to be working well, and since it's only judged by subjective opinion I'm offering exactly that…me and most high end gear manufacturers. 🛫✈️🐺🛩🛬 😁🍻 I guess this falls under, "you can't teach an old dog new tricks." 🙄 If you're going to continue to harp, ask yourself this, do caps, resistors, (tubes, etc.) with the same values and/or that all measure the same sound different? If the answer is no, please replace all of such components in your system with the cheapest ones you can find, and enjoy your system. |
I just came across a review of the SR Black fuse and one of their power cords over at Audio Bacon. Take it for what it's worth but the reviewer(s) ended up replacing all of their fuses due to the results they got. I know, it's all pay for play and they got all kinds of kickbacks and who can trust reviewers anyway and it's all a scam and everyone's in on it and they're all delusional and it's all due to expectation bias and they all keep jars of magic beans around just in case they need to go out on their unicorns in search of giants..... All the best, Nonoise |
An additional thought regarding the recent posts on SR’s Acoustic Paint patent, adding to the previously stated facts that the patent makes no mention of fuses, UEF, or Inductive Quantum Coupling. Or for that matter anything that has to do with the processing of electrical signals or AC power. (It is about **acoustic** paint, after all): A careful reading of the 10 claims in the patent makes clear that all 10 claims are limited to applications of the paint to the walls of a listening room. Therefore if another manufacturer were to market fuses treated with a paint formulated identically to the descriptions provided in the patent, he would be able to do so without infringing on Mr. Denney’s patent. One more reason why the reference to a patent in the Blue Fuse’s description, which states that.... At Synergistic Research we’ve isolated key factors that affect how electricity propagates by changing the behavior of electrons through Inductive Quantum Coupling methods we collectively call UEF Tech. In fact, UEF Tech is so powerful even an electrical chain several miles long is fundimentally [sic] improved with nothing more than a single fuse engineered with our patented UEF Technology.... is dubious at best. Regards, -- Al |
I am a little curious to know what ever happened to Synergistic’s terminology Quantum Tunneling? It was an excellent ploy. Has it been replaced by Quantum Coupling? Maybe someone informed them that quantum tunneling is a very specific quantum phenomenon that would almost certainly not (rpt not) occur, whether you pumped a million volts into a fuse or a kazillion. Unified Field Effects is also a very cool term, quite reminiscent of Einstein’s Unified Field Theory. 😛 Then there's this. Field effect (semiconductor) - Wikipedia Wikipedia › wiki › Field_effect_(semico... In physics, the field effect refers to the modulation of the electrical conductivity of a material by the application of an external electric field. In a metal the electron density that responds to applied fields is so large that an external electric field can penetrate only a very short distance into the material. |
Al Pardon me but I too think the patent leaves open the door for modulation by an external source not just particle motion of the air in the room. If it were just the air in the room then the ambient temp. and humidity would be the constant variable as to how the paint would react and perform at any given period of time. Tom |
An additional thought regarding the recent posts on SR’s Acoustic Paint patent, adding to the previously stated facts that the patent makes no mention of fuses, UEF, or Inductive Quantum Coupling. Or for that matter anything that has to do with the processing of electrical signals or AC power. (It is about **acoustic** paint, after all): The devil is in the detail...and the manufacturer. You still can't see the forest for the trees. 😉 And there are already similar products. |
geoffkait: I am a little curious to know what ever happened to Synergistic’s terminology Quantum Tunneling? It was an excellent ploy. Has it been replaced by Quantum Coupling? Maybe someone informed them that quantum tunneling is a very specific quantum phenomenon that would almost certainly not (rpt not) occur, whether you pumped a million volts into a fuse or a kazillion. Unified Field Effects is also a very cool term, quite reminiscent of Einstein’s Unified Field Theory. 😛 The cables still refer to Quantum Tunneling. Interestingly, the Black Power Cables now mention "UEF Technology Standard Level 2." I wonder if this differs from the "UEF Treatment 2.0" in the Blue fuses. |
Hi Tom (Theaudiotweak), As you are no doubt aware, the claims section of a patent defines in very precise terms exactly what the invention or inventions is or are for which the patent holder is granted exclusive rights. A patent attorney will attempt to word those claims as broadly as possible, to make the protections provided by the patent as broad as possible, but without wording them so broadly that a claim encompasses an invention previously made by someone else, which might invalidate the patent or cause it to not be granted in the first place. In this case, every one of the 10 claims, either directly or by reference to one of the other claims, clearly and specifically refers to applying an acoustic paint to a wall, the paint having been formulated in one of several different specifically defined ways, for the purpose of improving the acoustics of the room. As a licensed patent attorney, I can tell you that if another manufacturer were to market fuses that have been treated with a paint formulated identically to any of the paint formulations defined in the patent, and Mr. Denney sought to bring an infringement suit on the basis of that patent, he would not get to square one with his suit. Best regards, -- Al |