Dual Subwoofers?


How about the idea of a separate subwoofer for each channel, using passthrough to bookshelf speakers.  What say you?

128x128mikeydee

I'm considering a pair of martin logan subs, heard them and like them. Lotsa setup/control features.

+1 et al.

I had one SVS SB300 and it was very nice. I then got a second and everything got much, much better. Stereo separation and imaging improved.

2 subs much better than one.  A couple SVS SB1000 Pro subs will get you down to an honest 20Hz with minimal size at less than $1000 and absolutely transform your listening experience.  

@mikeydee , Above mentioned or the SB2000 Pro would be the most affordable solutions if you have never heard dual subs set up correctly before...and looking to get your feet wet.

 

Price goes up from there...

 

Here are some very good subs ... 

Rythmik F12 (12 inch), F12G (12 inch), G22 (dual opposed 12 inch) 

KEF KC62 (dual opposed 6.5 inch , KEF KC92 (dual opposed 9 inch)

Elac Varro DS-1000bg (dual opposed 10 inch), DS-1200bg (dual opposed 12 inch)

 

 

 

What ever direction you go, be patient with the implementation—and reconsider where your mains reside. It will take time to nail the placement of the sub(s) and integrate them properly. But you will get there and it will be worth it.

Finally +1 to the other comments on Swarm/DBA. It’s the ultimate and you’re not giving your money to big brands and you will accomplish way, way more.

 

@portoalegre wrote:

[Are two subs better] "even if the two subs are at the corners close to the walls?"

Yes but the improvement is not as much as if the two subs are in acoustically very different locations... like one in a corner and the other along one of the walls opposite that corner.

The basic idea behind a distributed multi-sub system is this: You want each sub interacting with the room as differently from the others as is reasonably feasible, so you want them to be in locations that are acoustically dissimilar. This way each sub produces a significantly different room-interaction peak-and-dip pattern, and the SUM of these multiple dissimilar peak-and-dip patterns is smoother than any one alone, and this improved smoothness extends throughout the room. And, perceptually, "smooth" bass is "fast" bass because it is the in-room peaks which take longer to decay into inaudibility.

If you have no other option than to place your two subs in the corners, here are two things you might try: If they have adjustable phase, set their phase controls 90 degrees apart. And if you can get away with it, elevate one of the subs so that it is closer to the ceiling than to the floor.

Disclaimer: I have been commercially involved with distributed multi-sub systems for many years.

Duke

If you’re running amp to sub to bookshelf and high passing the bookshelf speakers then it seems to be essentially using a sub for each channel and if you’re running subs that high (80+) I’d situate them very close to the speakers to get ’full-range’ speakers.

Otherwise, if not high-passing the mains, I might consider two asymmetric locations for the two subs (not necessarily by them) for better low bass integration in the room and low pass them lower than normal. Depends on the small speakers I’d say.

I moved from an REL B1 to three active SVS subs and added another sub recently for four total, set up asymetrically in my main room. It works superbly for really low end bass, and stays out of the way when not needed.  I'm a +1 on D.B.A. setups.

 

As it’s been said, two is better than one.  Being a bass head I finally broke down and implemented a (DEBRA) four subwoofer system and the improvement is remarkable. An immersive experience, better imaging, not just more bass but a new window into recordings. I will never go back to a single or dual sub setup. There’s lots of online information on setting up multi-sub systems or you could purchase an AudioKinesis Swarm. 

In the living room we use a pair of KEF KC62s that integrate with LS50 Wireless II speakers controlled by an a KEF app that runs on an iPad.  Each speaker has an output to a sub.  In the media room we use a pair of Velodyne SMS-1s that take LR output from an Ayre KX-5 Twenty preamp and send room corrected output to one of a pair of HGS-15s.  I'm not sure about the stereo contribution of the subs, but pairs of subs are certainly effective.

db 

As others have posted their recommendations, I feel I should post mine.

Though a bit pricier to gain entry, the Vandersteen subs are quite unique in that the employ a high pass filter (adjustable to amp impedance). The result being that you have near seamless integration with your speakers.

The new Sub 3's have built in equalization, which allows you to 'tune' the subs to your room.

Using first order crossovers also benefits time and phase alignment.

Yes, there are less expensive ways to add subs (I also use HSU in my office), the Vandy subs make anything else look and sound silly.

Bob

The Rythmik F12 is great, and is also available with a paper cone instead of aluminum, model F12G (for GR Research.). For those wanting to move more air, there are also the F15 and F18, aluminum cone only.

For those with dipole loudspeakers, there is the amazing OB/Dipole Sub, a collaboration between Rythmik’s Brian Ding and Danny Richie of GR Research. Available as a kit only.

2 subs are better than one, and 4 are better than 2. Charge the room correctly and you will be rewarded with much more than just better bass, but with added clarity across the frequency spectrum and an expanded soundstage that will immerse you into the music. 

Qty 2 Rythmik subs
F12SE-XLR3 piano black, A370XLR3 plate amp

I bought the second about 6 weeks after the first.

I’m still amazed at the difference after adding a second.

Overkill for your application but IME 2 is better than 1.

2 subs much better than one.  A couple SVS SB1000 Pro subs will get you down to an honest 20Hz with minimal size at less than $1000 and absolutely transform your listening experience.  

2 subs are great. I bet you'll hear from the DEBRA (distributed Bass Array) users, too.

Though, I would opt to using the amp outputs instead of the preamp.

Bob