...and, if so, is the degradation of sound quality generally audible?
I’m running a PrimaLuna integrated into JBL L65s whose stock connectors only accept bare wire. Would like to fit the ‘65s with some sort of reasonably good adaptor which wouldn’t entail opening any cabinets/soldering/etc. and would allow me to use a better grade speaker cable (Been looking at Audioquest Rocket 33/44.) that’s terminated w/banana plugs. Any brand/model/supplier for such an adaptor would be most welcome. Thanks in advance.
Any discussion on differences of connectors (i.e. "which is better") apart from being the same brand/manufacturer is a waste of time. The only proper assessment is with the same brand/model of cables with different connectors. I that context, spades are typically superior, but one would have to conduct a comparison with any given set. Adapters typically degrade. Anyone who dismisses such factors is obviously not seeking extreme sound quality.
In the scheme of the entirety of system building, adapters are just one of the many variables that influence the system. It is not absolutely necessary to have optimized terminations, but it will lessen the sound quality not to have them. Read my review of the Iconoclast Cables at Dagogo.com, wherein I comment on the difference between their banana and spade terminations. My finding was in line with the company’s position on the sound of each.
Just like any other connector type, they are just another connector. Unless they are grossly underrated for the job they are assigned to, or corroded to the point where they do not conduct properly, all conductors are about the same.
I use bananas from KLE Innovations - they are the very best I have found to date and make a noticeable improvements in dynamics, clarity details and image.
But they are a little more fragile than most others, so if you cables are heavy (larger than 10 gauge) and the binding posts are further than 20" off the ground th bananas may work loose
I also found these bananas to perform better than bare wire or silver plated copper spade connectors
Update to what I posted earlier. I found the service data for the JBL L65 speaker.
L65s do use a different speaker binding post arrangement then the 43xx/44xx series. Original L65 binding posts are JBL part number 56130 (black), 56131 (red).
I can't tell for sure, but it looks as though the original binding posts are shorter and smaller diameter. The threaded post looks hollow. If that is the what you find, measure the internal diameter of the threaded post.
If you find it to be around 1/8" or 3mm, then you can use a "miniature" banana plug like the 2944.
Hello, There is not a huge issue running bare wire as long as you tin the ends. Depending on how resolving your system is you can get arcs from stranded wire. My favorite banana adapters are the Straightwire BANAUNV. It will convert a spade or bare wire to bananas. My favorite is they utilize the Z banana. This insures a tight fit and a lot of surface contact. https://www.straightwire.com/mobile/connectors.php Scroll down to see the under the connector list. If you are in the Chicagoland area this store is a dealer: https://holmaudio.com/straight-wire/ Another solution is buy Pre- made Straightwire cables and unsolder one of the ends. They are a great value product! I wish I could demo cables but I am in the process upgrading my system so there is no point until I get my electronics first.
Not for me when I had 3 alternate amps going: 3 sets of color coded speaker wires, all with separate WBT Banana Plugs (you manually tighten them when you insert them). I put a 6 ft pigtail with female from the speakers that I could reach without bending! A couple years of comparative listening, myself and with friends.
In the past I used some Radio Shack self-tightening type (fixed pair which maintains spacing). The knurled ends are for tightening the speaker wire, once, then it’s simply push in/pull out. This type, the speaker wire connection to the plug can mysteriously loosen, the WBT uses a pair of allen key set screws, the wire connection never loosened. They are well worth the price.
This is when EVERYONE picked LP over CD; R2R tape over LP; Tubes over SS. I had a Pair of Fisher 80z Tube Mono Blocks (30 wpc); Fisher 500C Tube Receiver (30 wpc); McIntosh SS MC2250 (250 wpc).
You made me think, I still have those cables, Just for fun I’m gonna compare my Fisher 80z Tube Mono Blocks with my ’new to me’ Luxman SQ-N150 10 wpc Integrated Tube Amp that arrived yesterday. I listened with a friend for 3 hrs last night, that little Luxman is amazing. I’ve never used less than 30 wpc here. I knew it was small, but when you take it out of the box, it’s small (but heavy). Beautifully built (I didn’t look inside).
The JBL L65 looks like it has recessed binding posts on a 45° angle.
I have a pair of 4412As with likely the same arrangement. It may be different in the case of the L65, but I doubt it.
JBL thoughtfully made the binding post spacing that matches a Pomona Electronics 1330 or 4892 dual banana plug. That's what I've used for years. Makes connecting your speaker cables a snap, even in the dark.
I have used the cheap banana to spade adapters from Amazon and I thought they were fine until I got a set of XOX Spade Adapters from Black Cat Cable. The XOX adapters not only worked better and had a better construction, they sounded essentially perfect as if there was no adapter attached. I use them to this day and will until the day I depart this life. Just my 2 Cents worth.
If you aren't comfortable soldering and opening equipment it might not be possible. Removing speakers to access the inside of a cabinet can be distressing and extreme care needs to be taken not to damage delicate cones, so I get you concern, particularly if slotted screws were used.
Having said that, it is entirely possible by encasing the screw head with your thumb and forefinger to keep the screwdriver in contact with the screw, and using a very long screwdriver, which helps keep it perfectly perpendicular. Just use as little force as is necessary to keep the screwdriver in contact with the screw and slowly rotate the screwdriver. Gently and slowly is the key, one screw at a time. If your muscles are up to it, consider taking a few goes for each screw, so there are no mishaps.
Not without soldering that I know of, that is what I do with short OCC wire, or one time with Kimber. An extensive search might turn up something, probably bigger and worse sounding
In theory I suppose everything de grades. That said how great was your previous connection? How often did you open it and remake it with a clear wiping motion that cleans oxidation? Getting out of this minutia I can tell you that I can get absolutely superb sound with lots of connectors so long as they are tight and clean my two senses people worry about the wrong stuff
Monoprice bananas are excellent! I use 'em! I hear NO difference between brands! You can make your own bare wire-to-banana adapters with a few inches of some single-strand copper hook-up wire (18 - 22 awg). I have done this myself! NO effect upon SQ!
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