I"m using a spray 'advanced vinyl record cleaning solution' with a cleaning cloth.
It creates GUNK in the grooves which can be fixed by cleaning the needle 5-7 times during playing one side.. It gets into the grooves and fixes the problem. I'd rather find a better way to clean the discs. Sounds dumb, I know.
First if after you "clean" a record it keeps leaving deposits on the needle, you did not clean said record. You just released some dirt. You might not be using enough fluid, letting it soak in enough, or removing enough of it after the final wipe.
For me, do a manual clean with Grovemaster products, then it goes in the ultrasonic. After that it goes into a new premium sleeve. Use 6 drops of Grovemaster ultrasonic cleaner per gallon of distilled water. Some used records need to go through the process a couple of times.
Most of my records have 0 pop, hiss, clicks, very low noise floor. If they do, they get cleaned again. My needle almost never needs to be cleaned. I got a nice little ultrasonic cleaner for that.
Woo all this process for a record.Not my tune, I switched to CDs to avoid all this, now I breath on the disc wipe it on my shirt, put it on the tray, push play and chill.
I use KLaudio 200 ultrasonic with distilled filtered water and no additives with very good results. Every time i play vinyl a use Furotech III static removing device
I don't like the concept of adding anything to the surface of a record: Solvents always a risk. Soaps, additives, surfactants etc all accumulate and removing anything is rarely possible once applied
An ultrasonic cleaner is the best way that I have found to clean vinyl records. I built my first ultrasonic cleaner in 1979 and used it to clean over 1000 records with excellent results. With my spindle assembly, I typically cleaned 8 to 10 records at a time and the total process (cleaning, spin rinsing and spin drying) took less than 20 minutes for 8 to 10 records. All you need is distilled water and a proper surfactant in your ultrasonic bath. No need to spend a lot of money on an ultrasonic cleaner. A reasonable ultrasonic cleaner can be purchased on Amazon for about $200.
I always wondered why “quiet” is a virtue correlated with goodness when discussing vacuum based RCMs. I keep my noisy VPI in my basement workshop. When I clean records, I’m cleaning records, not listening to music. I’ve got a table radio in there for sports listening if warranted. It’s a vacuum cleaner; they’re supposed to be noisy. Quiet might mean weak vacuum.
Add me to the voices saying that bad record cleaning is worse than none, but a good ultrasonic cleaner (with frequent changes of water) is excellent. I use an Audiosysteme box, but those are now a silly price - if I did not have it, I too wouod be a degritter or similar.
A cleaning machine is the answer. One with a vacuum to suck up the fluid and residue or ultrasonic. I had a VPI for over twenty years and have now upgraded to the much quieter, semi-automatic Nessie. These are very high quality.
On a budget purchase a "label protector" such as the one I will link below (or purchase a less expensive Amazon version/offering for 50% less) and use your sink (soft/plastic tub inserted) to clean your records.
The first step (prior to rubbing/brushing the LP with anything) is to protect the label and then flush out the grooves with warm water.
You can do this with just the water tap or you can get more involved by using a repurposed WaterPik (dental cleaner) or something similar that increases the water flow/pressure.
If you use a brush prior to the flush you will be brushing possibly hard contaminants against the vinyl surface (and if they are harder they will scratch/damage it).
The above paragraph describes the main error in many established vinyl cleaning methods (flush, flush, flush before applying any brush).
As far as inexpensive DIY cleaning solutions go Google it (mine is a simple Google find).
I also use filtered tap water for final rinsing and as far as comparing the PUR filtered water from my tap to distilled water from the grocery stores (by evaporation) the filtered water has less/no visible contaminates VS the the distilled water -w- visible contaminates.
My local audio shop cleans vinyl with the Humminguru for $2.00 a disc. The Guru costs approx. $500.00. so I can have them clean discs 250 times instead.
First, I know this process is/was excessive. I previously worked in an analytical chemistry lab, so I was accustomed to excessively clean processes/equipment.
Background: I have cleaned ~4500 LPs using the following process:
Tap rinse
Spin Clean w soap - 6 revolutions, each side
Ultrasonic clean w soap at 2 different frequencies (Elmasonic P, from Germany, 37/80 kHz), the 80kHz produces less heat,- which is a key issue for LPS (most units do not offer this feature).
Tap rinse / drip dry
Spin Clean w D.I - 6 revolutions, each side
Drip dry in a rack / wipe with Spin Clean drying cloths
Store in new sleeves...
I avoid excessive heat, strong acids, strong abrasives and organic solvents - not needed (and can damage LPs).
With the 'deep cleaning' accomplished, I simply dust each side with a Disc Washer brush before playback.
I recommend you try a few steps to see what satisfies you, your needs and your time-budget.
Second, please know that cheap equipment is CHEAP ONLY ONCE. After that, you pay every time you use it... (a lesson that my favorite boss taught me years ago).
Best of luck with your adventure and feel free to message me if you want more details...
I wouldn’t go any higher than 80… the issue is you can’t start there.. the water continues to heat up due to the friction of the vibrations… If you set your temp lower you’ll end up at 80 and beyond at some point if you doing several batches. Make sure to keep an eye on it because once the damage is done you’ll be stuck with a warped record.
I have had excellent results using a "Spin Clean" type cleaner that I bought off Amazon. I have also used a painters brush with the usual DIY cleaning solution (distilled water, alcohol, a drop of Dawn detergent) followed by a distilled water rinse, for times when I have picked up 1 or 2 records at a yard sale, etc. and I don't want the hassle of setting up the record cleaner for just a couple of records..
Key for me is the "aftercare" once the record has been cleaned. I use rice paper inner sleeves, a clear vinyl outer sleeve to cover the record jacket, and then I have a carbon fiber brush that I give the lp a light dusting with before playing. I also have a separate carbon fiber brush for the stylus, which gets a light brushing every time I use my turntable (and of course, dust cover down whenever not in use...)
I have found that my lp's stay 'clean' almost indefinitely using these methods. I have played lp's that were cleaned 2 - 3 years ago (and not played since) and they still look and sound as good as when they were first cleaned...
I'm sure an ultrasonic cleaner would be even better - but I balked at spending several hundred dollars for record cleaning.
@skiznfliz - What temperature did you ultimately choose for your US record cleaner? Do you heat the water before you start your first cleaning? I'm currently using 30 degrees C.
I’ve been using a Record Doctor with pretty good results. Ideally, I would also have an ultrasonic cleaner. I’ve heard good things about the Humminguru.
These comments from vinyl enthusiasts have convinced me that I have achieved an ideal audio system. The total cost of this system was about $1000, maybe less. The listening process is simple. I just lay down horizontally on the couch with my head on a pillow and cover myself with a light blanket. I plug the speakers into my iPad, select something on Amazon Music, and away I go.
My speakers are Monsoon MM-700. They're a plannar magnetic, nearfield design, and sound great! They are arranged in an ideal nearfield setup, as you will see in the photo. This arrangement is so effortless that you might call me lazy. And that's alright with me! 😊
...I tried to post a picture here, but it didn't work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I accumulated a lot of records over the decades; stuff I bought when I was an "audiophile," and even more when vinyl was proclaimed "dead"- Tower had moved all the LPs to the annex at the Lower Broadway store and I used to come out with bags full- shopping bags of stuff. A lot were treated as "cut outs" but I also bought at Princeton, Academy and in the last couple decades, started to seriously collect --albums from heavy psych to "free jazz," often used, attended record shows, bought a few collections, and got to know a few vinyl collectors.
I had been using a VPI since the early ’80s--a 16 that was converted to a 16.5 and experimented with different methods as a dug down-- some of the used records were contaminated and when I bought my first US machine, an Audio Desk, it was not entirely effective in cleaning some of these used records. That forced me to go back to manual cleaning and vacuum used together with US. I eventually moved away from the AD to the KL machine, which does not use chemistry.
My non-scientific take: a lot of these "used" records suffered from noise and contamination because of bad "cleanings"--I’ve seen guys at shows wipe records with mystery sprays and cloth. I suspect some of the LPs that I was able to revive were casualties of bad prior cleanings, rather than kludgey tone arms on changers which caused groove chew. (I was focusing on a lot of late ’60s and early ’70s LPs, which took us into the oil crisis and a real low point in vinyl pressing quality due to the compounds, including regrind).
Disclaimer: I publish TheVinylPress where that book by Neil Antin (@antinn) was published. I credit Neil with all the heavy lifting, the science and pulling it all together since he wrote the Mil-Spec for cleaning life critical systems on our naval fleet and is himself an audiophile who wanted to apply his life’s work to another of his passions-- music and recordings.
It isn’t a light read, but more of a reference. There are any number of ways to effectively clean a record. Neil’s starting premise is that you don’t need thousands of dollars in record cleaning equipment to get records clean in a measurable, repeatable way. I’m far from a guru, I got to where I was through what I would call amateur experimentation. I do use very high quality equipment, having cleaned thousands of records.
As others have pointed out, the "spray and wipe" will not get the contamination out of the grooves- but probably only add to it. Some folks like the simple convenience of US made for LP cleaning--which involves the least labor. I’m somewhere in the middle--I still manually clean using a good commercial fluid and vac using a big Monks, then pop the record into the KL US. If the record is new and does not have apparent contamination, including fingerprints, I can rely solely on US, but since my thing is older copies, those usually go through a multi-stage, multi-method process.
Once clean, I rarely have to re-clean. I follow a protocol of new inner sleeve, jacket cover and keep the original inner if it has any artifact value.
There’s a ton of material out there, in writing and on video, about record cleaning.
Neil has done something that no one author has done- to assemble in a logical way, the steps involved in cleaning and why those steps are important, taking into account chemistry as well as materials science. For that, I thank him.
Like most things in audiophile land, it all comes down to how much you want to spend. Want easy, no fuss and effective? Get the Degritter Mark II. Want a more inexpensive alternative that will be just as effective but more laborious? Fashion a system of your choice from CleanerVinyl.com or consider the contraption(s) suggested by reubent. Improvements on the latter two ideas would be using an Elmasonic P60H US cleaner instead of a basic 40 Hz US machine and doing a final rinse in only distilled water with a Spin-Clean or Knosti Disco Anti-Stat. Of course, there are very effective and minimal cost manual methods to consider, as well, but that's as labor intensive as it gets. For cleaning solutions, however, that is a whole other dialogue! Think Tergitol, maybe Liquinox but, by all means, listen to what viridian is telling you! Not an easy read but worth the effort and then some!
Oh yeah, I forgot, I'm gonna add the little bit of Jet Dry Rinse to the spinner tank with the Distilled Water next time. I was putting it in with the cleaning fluid.
I use a similar unit & Spin Clean Rinse Afterwards as well and achieved excellent results. Allows you to pick up some gems from the dollar racks as long as there’s no scratches through to the groove. Scuffs are ok though… I’ve gotten to the point I can instantly determine whether a record can be salvaged or not… Picked up quite a few GREAT LP’s for sure.
I’ve cleaned over 1000 LP’s …A word of warning using these types of ultrasonic cleaners…WATCH YOUR WATER TEMPERATURE…as I’ve had many a record warp from the water getting too warm.
Ill be checking some of the links posted here. But basically, any product you use, should get an proper rinse after, in case any of the cleaning chemicals are left behind. You need to first use a tool that will clean it properly, then rinse. I use an Okki Nokki at the moment, but I want to try the Humminguru in the future and keep the Okki Nokki to rinse clean it after (if necessary - to be tested)
I previously used a SpinClean and it did a pretty good job. Recently started using the inexpensive UltraSonic Record Cleaner as sold on eBay and it does a remarkable job. Mine is the version with the tall bracket that the record turning motor mounts on. I like this version as you can loosen the knob and raise the motor and record spindle up high enough that 12" records are completely out of the water. It's sold by several different vendors, but they look essentially the same. Here's a link to an example:
my new 4" magnifier mirror, 30x, with built in LED, keep on the deck below your cartridge. lift it up from the side, angle it this way and that to see stylus tip, cantilever, suspension
You are loosening, but not removing junk that the stylus is digging out. You need to get the gunk out before playing. Advanced stylus profiles get deeper into the grooves than the spherical and elliptical they were played with previously.
For ’normally dirty’ lps’ I’m thinking of trying a compact ultra-sonic clean/dry unit, waiting for some guidance from members here in another discussion
Meanwhile, I aggressively scrub old dirty lps, mine from high school and college days, many given to me by friends when they got rid of their TT’s when CD’s took over, some purchased knowing they need a good bath, as long as no scratches. They go from unlistenable to an enjoyable listen, surprised me.
I add alcohol 91, and a few drops of jet dry rinse agent to the purchased mix in a small spray bottle, thus ’my mix’.
plastic lid from chinese soup container to protect the paper label.
vigorous, repeat vigorous scrub with baby scalp brush and my mix
manual spin machine is for rinse with distilled water, a pre-dry wipe with a cloth, into the 10 lp rack that comes with the spinner.
batches of 10 while listening, whistle while u work.
Yes, @viridianrecommends that booklet that offers a great review of cleaning techniques. I think many just use distilled water in an ultrasonic cleaner, of which there are many to choose from, each with their own advantages.
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