You might try Fidelium speaker cables by Silversmith Audio.
what cable should I buy for my system?
Elements of my system:
Source Esoteric K05X
Rotel Michi m8 monoblocks
B&w 802d3 speakers
With a simple high-quality copper cable, the sound is currently neutral, forward, with an unfavorable wind, but mainly with depth and short decays. It’s dynamic, fast, tight, but it lacks sophistication, especially the ideal space mapping and the long, delicate decay of the sounds. I would think about used cables.. Budgeting is obviously important, but I haven’t done it yet, first of all I would be interested in your opinions on which cable brings what and in what price-value ratio.
Thank you very much for your help.
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I would go with Cardas at the price level of about 10% of your average component costs. Sounds like you want to be careful not to get cables that are too “hot” of it’s honing to get fatiguing. Cardas will add refinement. Alternatively, try DHLabs at your price level. I use Transparent, but have very refined equipment which I want no change to the component sound… so Transparent are it for me.
It is always advantageous to compare about three brands and see which is most complementary. The cable company has a lending library or you can borrow through dealers or purchase. I have a few sets acquired over the decades allowing me to compare for their house sound… then if one is good… I’ll buy new upgraded versions. I also lend them out. |
I agree with @jond Try a good preamp. Source to amp is typically forward and doesn’t excel in layering and soundstage. |
There are Cable Suppliers that that offer a no obligation to purchase home trial for 30 Days. Using such a Cable Suppliers offer, will enable the individual to expand on their experiences. When expansive experiences are able to be had on the Home Audio System, or an Audi System that is very familiar to oneself, the benefits of the learning to be attained are much more that when being sought on a unfamiliar system. Talking about and trying to decipher descriptions offered by others is no substitute for a Direct - Sat in Front Of Experience. As for a Wire Type used for the Cables Signal Path. PC Triple C or D.U.C.C Wire Types are ones I recommend today. |
Thank you for your help.
Unfortunately, there are things I can only describe with a translation. I apologize for that. Has anyone tried michi's own preamplifier with the michi m8 and B&w d3 series? what will happen with p5 or without p5?
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@rolee910 I have been demo'd the B&W 804 D4 Diamond Speakers in a system where a selection of Digital Sources were used with Devialet 1000 Amp's. After a few tweaks for the Speakers (undoing the Speaker Owners choices) that can be achieved using the settings option on Devialet Amp's. l wear it on my sleeve that the 804 D4 Diamond Speakers made a very very good impression. Additionally, a method that can be used to Tune Ported Speakers, which experiences have proved will Tone Down the Upper Most Frequencies and is also a method I have used myself when using Cabinet Speakers with Ports. Is where I have made my own adjustments to the Speakers Port, by reducing the Port Diameter and Increasing the Port Length. If translation is an issue, the following will need to be carefully considered, even though the practice is quite simple and will not cause any issues for the system. To experiment with such a methodology will not cost too much money, and the required fix may be discovered? To get the idea of how a Extension of the Speaker Port can effect the sound, a Plastic Tube with an OD of 1mm less diameter than that of the Speaker Ports ID. With the Plastic Tubes Wall being approx' 3mm, can be used in conjunction with the Speaker Port. A wrap of Tape on the inserted Plastic Tube, to take any slack can be added if need be. Think Trombone as the Tuning Method. To substantially change the ID of the Speaker Port, think about using different thickness Liners to be used within the Speakers Port, when inserted are able to change the Port Diameter. These can be made from a medium soft foam, that can support itself when inserted. Different Foam Thickness will create a different Port Diameter. I have used Pipe Lagging for this purpose? I have also plugged the Port, but did not get the wanted effect from this method, it should not be overlooked as a option to Tune a Speaker Port. If a Speaker Port Tuning is discovered that suits the room the Speaker is set up in for the better. The same Port Liner can be slid forward in 20mm increments to tweak the Port Length. If extending the Port Length adds to the impression being made from the ports tuning, find the ideal extension length and make a new Port Liner that has the Speakers Port Length and Additional Length combined to be inserted within the Speakers Port. The outcome in the Rooms I have carried this port tuning out on, has been discovered as beneficial across the entirety of the frequency range. A tighter/leaner Bass Note + Improved Bass Roll Off + Improved Bass Note Decay. Upper Most Frequencies have become less prominent + improved in their cohesive integration into the mid to upper frequencies. As a side, my Floor Standing 3 Way Cabinet Speaker are also of such a design due to the want to have flexibility in room tuning. The Speakers Construction methodology selected allows for the option to change the Cabinets Internal Volume by approx' 30 Litres per Speaker, ( 45 Litres - 75 Litres per Speaker Cabinet) . As I am a long-term ESL Speaker user as the main Speaker of choice for the home system. I have referred to the Cabinet Speakers after having undergone Port Tuning as becoming more ESL like, producing a Upper Most Frequency presentation, I wish the ESL Speaker could mimic. |
@garebear What exactly is getting old? I firmly believe that speaker cables do make a difference. High-end systems that are highly revealing deserve premium cables, while more modest systems can make do with affordable ones. So, again, what is 'getting old'? |
After experiencing the Micca 14-gauge speaker cables ($25, recommended by Steve Huff) and the Belden 5T00UP 10-gauge cables (DIY for $50; BlueJean for $100), I strongly believe that speaker cables can make a significant difference, primarily due to their RCI (resistance, capacitance, and inductance) properties and the geometry of their construction. However, you don't need to spend a fortune to get decent cables that work well with your system. Although I belong to a different camp, I do agree with Jasonbourne71 that blind testing is essential to achieving an objective assessment of speaker cables—or any cables, for that matter. |
Back to your original question, I have had good luck with both WireWorld and Acoustic Zen cables. They both use OCC copper and in every case, excepting power cables, they have made a positive difference when introduced to my system. I have yet to delve seriously into power cables, hence the comment. And yes, you should consider a separate preamp now, and some digital separates down the road. |
I'm sure you're familiar with the Hippocratic Oath taken by physicians, which simply states: "First, Do No Harm". Audio cables are passive devices, and at their best, pass signal from point A to point B with an absolute minimum of artifacts. That oath can also be applied to cables. Because ANYTHING added in the path of the audio signal WILL do harm. The finest cable is the one which achieves this goal to the extent the state of the art permits. No hype, no games, no glitz. As stated in the Stager Silver Solids website: "it is not how a cable makes music sound great. It's about how it allows music to sound great by not hindering its transmission in any way." Just pure signal. - Like these: |
There is not a Audio Device or Ancillary to be utilised within Audio System that will do Harm to the Signal Path. There are methods that can be adopted to produce a Signal Flow that is a improved efficiency for the Source to Output Signal as the Signal passes through the variety of stages of gain being added. There are a variety of permutations for creating a Path that the Signal Flows through. These Permutations are able to be subjectively evaluated and if one individual makes the assessment that Harm is the outcome of a Permutation that has been demo'd in use. That is their chosen word to describe a perfectly produced Signal being experienced as Sound at the Output. The Signal transferred from Source to Output is not Sound, until the Speaker does the final conversion of a Electrical Energy into a Mechanical Energy, hence, Soundwaves are the final wanted energy for a Audio System. |
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High value (performance above their price points) cable brands:
Power Cables (old prices)
Speaker Cables (old prices)
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@rolee910 If your speakers have ports the easiest and cheapest of experiments that can be carried out is to investigate the Ports Dimensions as described in a earlier post. The effect this practice can have on coupling the Speakers to the room is well worthwhile learning. I will be feeling very confident the dimensions 'as is' will be kept. It is a known fact a Manufacturer can't design a Speaker that performs as per their R&D in all environments that the Speaker Design will eventually end up in. Once the coupling is corrected, the idea of introducing Absorption and Deflection panels into the room, will become quite interesting. These are also not too expensive to introduce, if only wanting to learn of the impact they can have. To have them in use permanently, may require a extra thought for the aesthetics, which will add cost. There are very nice Acoustic Fabrics that cost approx' $15-30 per 3' x 3' There are numerous Fabric Colours and even Printed Designs if one searches. The Links will give the general ideas of what can be achieved
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