To power strip or not
I use this Tripp-Lite power strip and find it has no ill effects compared to direct plugging into wall outlets! https://www.tripplite.com/1u-rack-mount-network-server-power-strip-120v-15a-6-outlet-rear-facing-15-... I also use a FURMAN for my other system! |
More often than not what would seem logically to work best turns out to be beaten hands down by something you cannot explain. Go get a 20 year old Synergistic Research Master Coupler power cord for $175-250 and when you hear how sick it makes everything else you have sound get back to me. I like to DIY, built my turntable, several speakers, interconnects, etc and modded a bunch of stuff. Which is how I know what you can DIY well and what you just can not. Certain things it does make sense. Power cords, speaker cables, interconnects, power conditioners, power strips- forget about it. Unless you really enjoy tinkering. Some guys just love soldering and screwing so much its worth it to them. Just don't kid yourself. Every single one I have made, tried or heard was utterly slayed by what could be bought new or used for far less than your cost of parts. Tired of telling the story of the 30-year DIYer whose masterpiece was crushed by something cheap, old, and random pulled from my used cable drawer. Okay in reality the cable was fine. It was him that was crushed when he heard how awful it was compared to really old cheap crap I had long since discarded. Wish I could tell you what to get but sadly you just have to try a bunch of stuff out and buy- not make, waste of time and money, but buy- whatever sounds best in your system and to your ears. |
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I would suggest using a high-quality power strip with high grade or audio grade outlets. Something like these for example: https://www.vhaudio.com/powerstrips.html Purchase already built or DIY, as long as you are using the higher-end outlets. I also like the Furman PST-8. https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Aluminum-8-Outlet-Protection-Conditioning/dp/B000YYVLAK/ref=sr_1_1?hva... |
I use a Cullen Cable power box in 6 and 4 outlet versions like these: http://www.cullencable.com/gold-series-power-box-6-outlet-receptacle-strip/ They work just fine and don't cost a fortune. All the best,Nonoise |
If using a power strip for little money Brick wall brand works well without sacrificing dynamics,and NO MOVs which Rob dynamics , class B component up there with items several times their cost under $300 ask for the Audio version. If you have a few bucks more a steal is the new Audio Quest 1200 surge- line conditioner $1000 you can shop online for under$900 a true great value |
I’ve had my eye on this one: AC Power Filter Power Conditioner - WAudio AC Power Purifier with Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XWL2VVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_stUSDbNXZ1PTP Yes, Chinese made...but Sean at Zero Fidelity tried it with good results. Chinese equipment has been consistently on the rise in terms of quality and attention to detail. Nonetheless, not many reviews otherwise. Wondering if anyone here has tried it. |
@phusis My experience is there is not a one size fits all answer. If you happen to have really clean power, then you can probably utilize a "non audiophile" sanely priced type of power strip. Therefore, I'd suggest that you buy a returnable audiophile device and one of the better tripp lite models and see if you can detect a difference. I live in an area where I am fortunate enough to have clean power and am not using an audiophile device as I could not hear an improvement. The power strip is grounded and all of my devices (player, preamp, power amp, subwoofer) are plugged into it and they are grounded as well. I have zero hum and great sound. This is the model I am currently using...but again, you should run your own trial. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Right-Angle-Protection-TLP810NET/dp/B00005T3Q2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=29Z... |
I use a Wiremold UL210BC ten-outlet power strip, which does not provide any surge suppression or filtering. It is plugged into a two-outlet Audience aR2p surge suppressor/power conditioner, which mounts directly on the wall outlet. To minimize the possibility that high frequency noise that may be fed back into the power strip by my digital components or power amp may couple into other components via the power strip I have a Shunyata Venom Defender plugged into an outlet on the power strip. Although with my particular components the Venom Defender doesn’t seem to be making much difference. (In that regard it may be relevant that my amplifier operates in class A, and therefore does not draw amounts of current that fluctuate significantly with the dynamics of the music, in contrast to class AB or D amplifiers). I am happy with the results. Like the previous poster I live in an area having clean power. Regards, -- Al |
I use a pair of Furman 6B-SS power blocks simply for surge protection and convenience. Didn't notice any audio improvement or degradation but i have the comfort of protecting my gear and the added simplicity of disconnecting my whole system from power with the flick of a switch. Great piece of mind when I'm traveling or otherwise away from home. Got em both new for $66. Cheap, effective protection. J.Chip |
What I did, not that anyone cares, is buy a box of good-quality ac duplex outlets like the ones in your walls, some 14 or 12 gauge wire like the wire in your walls, and a good power cord, and build a little frame/enclosure for it all. So the outlets on the contraption are exactly the same as the outlets on your wall. And unless you are the kind of person who tears down his walls to install audiophile power cables, it's probably within the range of good enough. |
@phusis - "power strips" have a place in a system, but you have to be careful... - I only use a power bar for source components, because they draw less current and tend to have less of an impact on other source components - I recommend plugging the amp directly into the wall Of all the commercially available products, I would ONLY use Furutech products. But being a DIYer I build my own... - I use high quality metal plug boxes - I use Pass & Seymour MRI plugs - regular hospital grade will also do - I use a breaker in the box - just in case - I use high grade bulk cable from furutech - I wire the plugs to a central "bus" - do not wire them in parallel - I use Sonar Quest mains connectors I do not use any kind of filter or surge protector, but I do have a surge protector on my electrical panel - which seems the best place for it. What to look for in a power strip... - a metal case - sockets that really grip the plug tight - a resettable breaker - an IEC connector - allows you to easily use a good power cable Anything else (like surge protectors, phone/LAN sockets and antenna sockets) is just "fluff" and drives up the price. My panel surge protector cost $150 (installed) and is much better than anything in a power bar. More expensive versions are available for sensitive audio gear. If line noise is a problem then you should invest in a very good power conditioner/regenerator, but that's a whole different conversation. Hope that helps - Steve |
Decware ZLC does the trick for under $1K. Steve Deckert is a great engineer. https://www.decware.com/newsite/ZLC.html |
riccitone, I bought that W Audio unit for my main home theater system. I don't use the system too much and just got it a couple of weeks ago so I don't have a ton of feedback, other than 1) it is well built and relatively heavy - has a good heft to it and feels and looks solid. 2) one of the common complaints on amazon was that power cord plugs don't fit tightly into the receptacles (ie, slop). That was not my experience. i'm happy with it so far. Can't say I noticed big change but wasn't expecting big change |
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An all-in-one desk clamp power strip with 3 standard US outlets, 1 USB port, and 1 USB-C port. It allows for a power supply that's easily accessible at just an arm's reach. |
