Technics SL1000 MK3 (SP10 MK3) performance/value VS modern turntables?

When you say hard to beat at the $7500 price point, do you refer to your idea of its value AFTER you do the upgrades, or what?  Because first of all, it's probably worth more than that just as is, in terms of market value.

Hello Lew,
I don't really know what these are selling for now?
Yes, I was wanting a comparison after all the restoration/upgrades.

I'm just thinking ahead... love the Technics, but just wanted to make sure I wasn't putting money into something that I may get better performance/value buying new?  I have saved just enough to do the upgrades and don't want to limit myself.
Hope I make sense... :)

Also... great to see your post, you are one of the most helpful I know :)

You can sell it as is, without any upgrades if nobody touched it before, the buyer will do the rest if needed. Price depends on condition, if you have original box and everything else like new then the price is very high! As you suggested even for used mk3 it can be $5-7000. If the unit in NOS it will cost twice as much.

Or you can send to our JP Jones for inspection if you want to make sure about condition of the electronics.

Not sure why do you think you need Kreb’s mod for mk3? It’s amazing turntable without any mods!

One of the best turntables ever. Even if you will spend up to $60k I doubt it will be any better.

As for the new one you have to check Technics SP-10R (and its retail).

Competition will probably be the Onkk Cue, which looks to me a lot better but haven't heard and no idea what you'd be looking at in terms of upgrade cost.

@rich121 There is a reason the SP-10 MkIIIs go for so much money used. They are one of the most speed stable turntables ever made. Your turntable is totally worth refurbishing and will be a worthy contender for state of the art if done properly. I wouldn't sell it if it were mine. I would instead equip it with the best platter pad I could get for it and the best tonearm. Great turntable!!

I bought my SP10 MK3 from Steve Dobbins. He recommended the 12 inch Fidelity Research tonearm to me. I might have bought one if I could have found one in nice condition at a good price. I went with a Reed 3Q arm, which is wonderful.

In the $5k to $10k range (msrp), these are the other tables that I have owned:

Sota Cosmos IV,  Kuzma Stabi Reference, and Classic Lenco by Jean Nantais.

They are all wonderful in their own way. However, for me, the SP10 MK3 is an "end game" turntable.

Ditto to what Atma-sphere wrote. Chakster, the Krebs mod is to stabilize the stators.  As you know, in a DD, the platter is generally the rotor of the motor or is affixed firmly to the rotor assembly.  In the case of the Mk3, a gigantic ring-shaped magnet is fixed to the underside of the platter, so the platter IS the rotor. When the motor spins the platter, there is an equal and opposite (in direction) force applied to the stators. Any movement of the stator assembly in the direction opposite to that of the platter can at least hypothetically cause the servo system to "think" there is a speed anomaly that it needs to correct.  This can result, at a micro-level of course, in the servo hunting for correct speed.  Since the Mk3 has the highest torque motor ever used in a DD, to the best of my knowledge, this is a potential issue especially for the Mk3. What Richard Krebs devised is a method to further stabilize the stators so as to eliminate that phenomenon so much as is possible.  My Mk3 was purchased NOS, and I listened to it for about a year prior to having it Krebs-ed by Bill Thalmann, his agent in the US.  I hear a subtle improvement in terms of "smoothness" and therefore "musicality".  (You can jump on me for using those vague descriptors, but they fit what I hear.)  Before the mod, the Mk3 was already the most accurate TT that I own, but in some ways it was a bit clinical sounding compared to the Kenwood L07D which sits right next to it and feeds the same system.  Now I can hardly tell the difference between them except for the fact that the Mk3 is still bang on accurate.  I hope I am not putting words into JP Jones' mouth, but he compared speed accuracy between his tweaked Mk3 and his own new SP10R and found in terms of that parameter virtually no difference.  Which is why I was able to resist buying a 10R in Tokyo, where you can buy one for under $7K.

I think the SP10MkIII is better than the new 10R because it has so much more torque. But a good deal of that was so it could be used for LP mastering and I suspect that was not their goal with the newer version.

Glad I posted!
Just needed some reaffirmation :)
I actually meant to have it gone through 2 years ago, but I had some health issues and needed to re-direct...
All is good now... and taking a quote from thaluza... I want an "end game" turntable....
So.. now to plan for the upgrades.

I really appreciate all the posts and information... you guys are the best!

Rick

Everything about Kreb’s mod is already on this forum in older posts, easy to search. Same about JP Jones service and his new chip for mk3.

I’m just trying to say that if OP would like to sell his mk3 then any further investment prior to selling is not worth it, because buyer can do it himself.

But if the idea is to keep the mk3 then you can invest more in inspection, calibration, modding etc (up to you).

Rich, you need 10’5 inch (or longer) tonearm for this turntable, short arms are impossible to mount (too close to the metal frame). Reed 12 inch tonearm is superb on this table. Technics EPA-100 mk2 is amazing and made for SL1000 mk3, why you don’t have it? Plinth ? 

what changes does Krebs make for 2500 frusciant bucks?

Look for old posts here and there are post from Mr.Kreb himself. 

@chakster
I visited the Krebs website and found nothing in the price list at 2500$ for the modifications of the Technics MK3 you get to max 1200$ and in any case its modifications do not convince me.
I only read many words, words and words but I illustrate something of the work phases ... nothing.

best-groove, "Frusciant"?  I gotta look that up. Actually, I did look it up, and I didn't find it in any on-line dictionary.

"Frusciant"?

lol lol   
the paper money makes a typical sound when it rubs (frush frush) he he he

@atmasphere 

I think the SP10MkIII is better than the new 10R because it has so much more torque. But a good deal of that was so it could be used for LP mastering and I suspect that was not their goal with the newer version. 

Yes but no one has addressed the major problem with the SP10mk3 - that is the antiquated error correction circuitry based on obsolete chips that results in errors and overshoot.

The Technics SP10 servos use algortihms to estimate predicted errors and employ rapid response times (limited by the technology of the day). The servo action includes error and overshoot.

It is no better than the jitter endemic in digital reproduction, and sounds like it to me.

I am surprised that on one offers a modern improved speed control system for the SP10mk3 motor.

Since the Technics was built there have been significant advances in technology. We now have computer simulation software to model motor behavior and generate more accurate algorithms, from which the input parameters are derived. There are now faster chips and amplifiers for driving the motor �- PWM�s are switching at a trillionth of a second today.

The problem is the Technics is full of obsolete chips and trying to optimize the feedback loop would be like trying to tune a car that has a very basic engine management system. You would probably be better to throw the boards away and start afresh. 

By comparison look at the error correction systems employed in newer TT's such as the NVS & Monaco. 

Modern control systems, with enormous computing power, can use statistical analysis, and a continuous shrinkage technique to improve the prediction of error on the fly - resuting in less overshoot and more stability.

In other words with new technology, the input parameters for the speed correction/servos are NOT set in concrete, as in the SP10mk3, they can now be calculated on the fly.

If you believe you cant hear it - have a look at the reviews by owners of the new upgrades to the GP monaco TT's. Omly a few years ago they claimed their TT was state of the art and perfect ( just like CD ). now they have further refined their electronic servos and low and behold - the improvements are audible. And their first TT interation error correction makes the Technis SP10mk3 speed controller system look like the dinosaur it is.


Explanation of Overshoot

 Algorithms are used requiring control inputs based on measuring past errors, the present error and a prediction of future error based on the current rate of change. 
Past errors (Integral) are included to accelerate the process and remove any steady state errors in the present error (or proportional if you want to get technical). 
Since the integral term responds to an accumulation of errors from the past, it can cause the present value to overshoot the set point value (where you want to get to).

In terms of correcting the present error, if the gain is too high you get instability, too low and you get a less responsive controller that may not deal with fluctuations. 

The prediction of future errors (called the Derivative) is required to minimize overshoot.

So, summarizing this then these inputs have to be balanced to maximize the correction and minimize instability and overshoot. There are always tradeoffs.

I visited the Krebs website and found nothing in the price list at 2500$ for the modifications of the Technics MK3 you get to max 1200$ and in any case its modifications do not convince me.

If Technics SP10 owners are contemplating the krebsupgrade they should be aware that there are legal exclusions of liability for any breakages incurred during the modification and that the modifications are irreversible.
I quote from the krebsupgrade website -

Some Legal Items:
All due care will be taken with your precious motor, however there is a remote possibility that a fragile or previously damaged but still functioning part could fail. In the unlikely event of this happening. We will do our best to repair or replace this part but we cannot guarantee a fix and cannot be held accountable for this failure.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
If I dont like the upgrade can it be removed?
Due to the nature of some of the materials used the complete upgrade cannot be reversed.

I also see that no measurements or objective tests have been provided to support the krebsupgrade claims. 

Personally if I had an SP10mk3 I would, at the very least, get a full service of the electronics done by Fidelis Analogue that includes an upgraded chip to replace MN6042 that does actually imrpove the original design, and for which Fidelis has published test data supporting his claims.

Dover, Stop.  Why don't you and Richard just have a duel at sunrise.  Water pistols to be the preferred weapon of choice.  As soon as his name is mentioned, out come your familiar attacks.  New Zealand is a beautiful and wide open country, and I am sure there is room for you both.

JP Jones at Fidelis is very familiar with all the various servo systems used by the various modern and vintage DD turntables, and I am sure he would have a lot to say in rebuttal of your issues with the Mk3.  The MN6042 is the primary controller for the motor (not just one of several such parts), and JP's replacement module made from modern SMD parts is a bit superior to the MN6042 in doing that job, but not all that much.  In my opinion, what you are hearing from the Mk3 that you find objectionable has nothing to do with the servo, unless you have been listening to a subpar unit and assuming in fact that you have ever had an extensive listening experience with a Mk3 in your own system.  Do not assume that the Mk3 is just a bigger stronger Mk2.  It's a whole different and more colorless world.  I can say that having owned both and having had them side by side in the same system. 

Lewm - just to be clear

I use to listen to an SP10mk3 just about every night for about 3-4 years back in the early 80's - purchased NZ new, Technics EPA100mk2, and various cartridges bog standard and immaculately maintained by a precision engineer, fully qualified, who owned the largest die cutting machine in Australasia.
Over the last 40 years I've heard it in multiple systems with different arms along with multiple L07D's and many Sp10mk2's which are more common.
The last SP10mk3 I have listened to at length was fully updated with Krebs mods, Porter plinth, SME V12 & Ikeda 407 mounted.

With regard to the servo system I cant understand why you cannot conceptualise that advances in motor controller technology might improve the SP10mk3 significantly. Are you still using the computer you purchased in 1978, if indeed you had one.

As far as vintage audio goes, rare items are now like vintage cars - if you modifiy them chances are you diminish the value. Do you not think that folk who are interested in modding their equipment should be fully informed when making their decision. All I did was point to the website of the modifier, I did not make any subjective statements on the quality of the work or efficacy.
The modifier in question on his website states that the mods are not reversible, and if any breakages occur in the modification process, the modifier eschews any legal responsibility due to the age of the equipment.

I have very low mileage MK3. JP fully serviced. New chip. No Krebs! FR66s arm. Couldn't be more happy and would def concur with the term "endgame". Don't sell it!

Just to clarify...the $2500 I posted earlier is approximately $1300 for electronics/controller chip restore/upgrades and $1200 for Krebs, which I may wait on the Krebs for now.

Sp10mk3 in good nick with restored FR64S is a great thing. Btw how much was the cost for the FR64S service and rewire at Ikeda?

With bank transfer fees, plus return shipping & restoration/rewire it was $900

No love for the Moerch DP8 tonearm?  :)

FR-64s is good, I also have 64fx, 64fx PRO, Ikeda IT-345 and waiting for FR-66fx. 

Aesthetically 12’ inch tonearms are much better for SP-10 mk3 and mk2. 

My favorite on my ex mk2 was Reed 3p Cocobolo 12’ inch.

Dover, Good to know you have actually had hands on experience with an SP10 Mk3. And yes, of course I realize that computer technology is now way ahead of anything available in 1980-ish.  You guessed correctly; I probably didn't even own a computer back then.  But I also don't think that running a motor at 33.33 rpm is in any way comparable to the complexity with which a modern home computer has to operate. The SP10 Mk3 using the JP Jones module in lieu of the original MN6042 and with the Krebs mod is a superb turntable to my ears. I was hoping that JP Jones would get in on this conversation, because he speaks with an authority I cannot muster when it comes to the electronics. I've often read about the Grand Prix Monaco and the precision of its speed controller out to at least six digits after the decimal point.  Yet the thing was never a big hit with the public.  That could be due to elements of its construction such as platter composition and mass and other factors having nothing to do with its apparently stringent speed control. Could it be that their latest "upgrade" besides being accurately reported (I am not implying fraud), is also a marketing tool meant to revive interest in the product?  Like the old days when one solid state amplifier would tout .01% HD until another would tout .001% HD and so on.  We ended up with the Phase Linear 700W amplifier with .0001% HD and an awful sound. (A red herring, I know.)  Seems to me in the world of servo design for turntables, different engineering groups have espoused different approaches.  Some have favored a "loose" control over a tight one. I believe NVS is one of those that minimize the frequency of corrections.  Among vintage turntables, the Kenwood L07D is in that latter camp.  The art of DD turntable design is as much one of taste and personal listening preferences as it is an absolute science; I think that is another way in which the analogy between modern computer design and operation, where speed and capacity are undeniable measures of performance, and DD turntable control breaks down. 

@dover Sutherland makes a wonderful little device called the Timeline of which I am sure you are familiar.

The SP10MkIII can keep the Timeline's dot on the wall all day long with repeated playing of the LP uncaring of multiple needle drops. Control theory being what it is, the precepts were well understood in the 1980s when the MkIII was designed and Technics had all the expertise needed to do the job right and they did. It is certainly true that computers can now be used as effectively since that is the big thing that has changed in the last 35 years and that is what Technics is now doing in their newer machines.


But their specs are no better, and FWIW this is because the original servo was properly designed and executed, which is also why the MkIII made an excellent platform for LP mastering. 


Unless you can show me that the servo in the older machine is actually hunting or some such, I'm not taking it on anecdote that what you are saying about the older Technics is real. The specs Technics publishes don't seem to agree with you as far as I can make out (but giving you some benefit of the doubt, its also obvious that the actual machines outperform the published specs by a fair degree, so its an unknown as to whether Technics has made any improvement with their new machine).


Now I get that you had a machine but if you are saying you heard something you like better I've no problem with that, but please keep in mind that is a nice anecdote. One variable you did not address is that the stock Technics platter pad, which is supposed to control resonance in the LP itself, does not do that very well. If you did not use the same platter pad on both machines used in a comparison, the results of the comparison are quite suspect!


The one concern I would have in all this (I don't really have a dog in the fight) is that the older machine is subject to the whims of age: electrolytic capacitors can fail, resistor values can drift and corrosion can attach rare semiconductors, compromising them or causing outright failure. But if the refurbished machine is kept in a controlled environment and if replacement semiconductors are around it should be fine.

As I mentioned somewhere above, JP Jones did a head to head comparison of the speed stability of his newly acquired SP10R compared to his own SP10 Mk3, no doubt being run by his module that replaces the MN6042 chip.  The curves were virtually super-imposeable.  Those data were published either here or on Vinyl Asylum, I think.

"…..I may wait on the Krebs for now"
congratulations Dover, you achieved your objective.

When I released my upgrade to the audio community, I did it because I was excited by the prospect of sharing with fellow SP10 owners what could be realized when the MECHANICAL architecture of the motor assembly was optimised. I wrestled with the SP10 MK3 sound for 15 years. chipping away at its, to me, obvious problems. And I felt that I had largely cured them.
What I did not expect was the vitriol and sheer nastiness in these fora over the years since its release, from people who seem to have a personal vendetta. 
Very early on, I built a substantial plinth (the black triangle TT shown on my site) using only the motor core chassis.  I could hear the improvements that this brought but the motor issues were now more apparent, hence my quest.
Exceptional engineering in plinths and electrical work is being done on these TTs It is heartening to see these people and companies put in the extreme effort and skill for the SP line, bringing their product to the market. That said, their work does not address the mechanical  problems in the heart of the TT....the motor itself. This should be self evident 

Yep, there are no measurements, but you would have to be deaf to not hear what it does. Just like there are no measurements when someone replaces the support shelf under a preamp from one material to another, we can hear the difference None of you say, show me the measurements. There are numerous companies selling aftermarket bearings, supports and other bits and pieces for legacy TTs. Most provide no "measurements" supporting the efficacy of their products. 

As to the cautionary notes on my site.
Gentlemen. these TTs are 40 plus years old, bad things can happen which cannot be sorted because parts are no longer available. I make no apology for warning about this risk, which applies to any type of work done by anyone, and prefer to be up front about it. Hey, just owning them is a risk.  The same goes with the irreversible comment. Would you rather I remain silent about this point?

I'm not getting rich selling this, I get a minor percentage of the fee,  it buys me some records now and then. If you can live with a MK3 au naturel, good for you. I find the performance distasteful, regardless of what plinth you surround the motor with or what juice you send into it.

Further, I prefer to pay attention to the comments from discerning listeners like Albert Porter, Lewm, or prestigious companies like Pass Labs and Triplanar who all use my upgrade in their TTs 

I am an infrequent poster here. The nastiness and pettiness of some spoil it for the many who just want to share the joy, fun and sheer beauty of listening to music at home. Giving the few oxygen only makes their flame grow brighter.

OK, I have said what I wanted to say. I will now leave you in peace.

 

Cheers,

 

RichardKrebs,
Let me clarify my statement that I may wait to do your upgrade until a later time is due to cost of doing both upgrades at the same time versus doing the electronic upgrades first and then yours when it is 'safer' financially.
Trying to keep the hobby as stress free as possible :)

rich121.
Thankyou for clarifying things, appreciated.
 And yes, our hobby should be the total opposite of stressful.

Cheers. 

 

The SP 10 Mk.III may be the pinnacle of direct drive design.  I would keep it.  The new SL 1000R is a great table for sure.  It may be one of the best made today but I am not sure it is better than what you already have.  FWIW.

@atmasphere
Very curious what platter mat recommendations you have for the MK3?

@rich121 I like the Oracle platter pad a lot. One problem you may encounter though is that the Technics spindle really isn't long enough. So you may be only able to use a weight instead of a record clamp with that platter pad. The pad has to be stuck to the patter as well, so the screws securing the platter to the motor might be considered optional.

tzh, way above the cost of a fully refurbished Mk3, there is a small universe of megabuck direct drive turntables, let’s say at prices of $30K and way up from there. Although I like my Mk3, I don’t assume that one or more of those turntables might not be even better. Surely, based on JP Jones data, the SP10R at a more pedestrian price point is as speed stable.

Lewm said.  tzh, way above the cost of a fully refurbished Mk3, there is a small universe of megabuck direct drive turntables, let’s say at prices of $30K and way up from there. Although I like my Mk3, I don’t assume that one or more of those turntables might not be even better. Surely, based on JP Jones data, the SP10R at a more pedestrian price point is as speed stable.

That may be true but it is still one of the best.

Ok.

Turntables have already improved enough not to need them over the years, you don't need to improve a performance by 0.1%; rather they should considerably improve vinyl recordings and prints even of ordinary ones lagging behind in technology IHMO.

@richardkrebs I’ve been on the fence of getting your upgrade a few times, but have been hesitant because of the irreversibility. Not really fussed about measurements, but, have you or anyone A/B’d a stock vs modded MK3 and recorded? Would be very intersted in hearing recordings if so!

@au_lait

Good idea, I wish I had thought of pre and post recording. Unfortunately this hasn't been done. 

cheers. 

Late to this, sorry for  not noticing but looks like good answers have been provided for all the questions.
I will add that I have a SP10 MK3 (you can see in my system here at Audiogon) and it has Krebs mod as well as complete mechanical and electrical rebuild.
Short answer is it's the best turntable I've owned and I've had a lot including the Walker Black Diamond Proscenium which the MK3 replaced.
I do not own the new Technics SP10R nor have I had it in my system but I imagine it's wonderful. It’s certainly handsome in both fit and finish. 

As for question about tonearms, the Fidelity Research mentioned is world famous for it's performance but so is the new Kuzma 4 Point 14" which is available new and can be ordered with your choice of wire and connectors.
I‘ve owned several dozen tonearms, both modern and classic.  There are several top flight and depending on match up with your favorite cartridge superb results can be had.

rich121

I was wondering how this would compare to what is out there for modern turntables after all the work is done? 

Any well sorted, restored and serviced Technics Sp10Mk3, in the proper plinth, will very favorably compete with and in many (if not most) instances readily beat modern turntables at this price. 

Or, would I be better off selling it, and adding what I was going to spend for the upgrades to a new turntable?

For $7.5k brand new, I doubt any brand new turntable which retails at this level could compare favorably.  If investing say $13k - $15k on something used you can likely find other decks offering different "flavors" but in certain areas the Mk3 may still prove rather difficult to beat.  If you do keep the Technics, then a properly implemented plinth is mandatory, as the stock SH series obsidian plinth simply does not allow this direct drive design to perform as well as it is capable of.    

Fidelity Research FR64S, in beautiful condition that I sent off to Ikeda/Japan and they re-wired (better silver wiring, I still have original wires) and completely tore it down and rebuilt/re-lubed.... it's just like a new FR64S.

The FR64s is a legendary tonearm design, you should be very happy with this choice.  The Moerch DP8........well, that one is an entirely another story.  IMO, for €4,2k you can certainly do much better. 

dover

If Technics SP10 owners are contemplating the krebsupgrade they should be aware that there are legal exclusions of liability for any breakages incurred during the modification and that the modifications are irreversible. I also see that no measurements or objective tests have been provided to support the krebsupgrade claims.

Over the past decade, I’ve owned differently implemented Technics Sp10Mk3’s from completely stock form, to one with a cld Panzerholz plinth to a Dobbins direct mount and Artisan Fidelity NGS and none have had this specific modification done. The permanent nature of this procedure involving oil(y) substances applied to the internals meant a firm no-go for me.  I listened to a for all intents and purposes stock Sp10Mk3 as well before and after this mod at a friends place as well which did not change or alter my opinion on the matter. 

Chakster

Or you can send to our JP Jones for inspection if you want to make sure about condition of the electronics.

Not sure why do you think you need Kreb’s mod for mk3? It’s amazing turntable without any mods!

One of the best turntables ever. Even if you will spend up to $60k I doubt it will be any better.

As for the new one you have to check Technics SP-10R (and its retail).

Agreed with this posters sentiments.  Btw, a new Technics Sp10R runs about $11k without a plinth. 

rich121

Very curious what platter mat recommendations you have for the MK3?

You also might wish to try one of the following platter mats as well.  I have both of these presently and they are really quite superb.   

Micro Seiki CU-180 (Gunmetal alloy - vintage)
Artisan Fidelity (Pure Copper)

atmasphere

I think the SP10MkIII is better than the new 10R because it has so much more torque. But a good deal of that was so it could be used for LP mastering and I suspect that was not their goal with the newer version.

I agree this is a critical part of the equation.  Many more differences exist between these models though than just the torque output which affect playback. 

Micro CU-500 was incredible on my ex Technics SP-10 mkII
Now I'm using CU-180 on my Luxman PD-444 and I have this spare set (CU180 + ST20 in mint condition). This is definitely the best mat, so rare and hard to find in perfect condition. 

I’m using the TTM Monitor Mat, no complaints and is much better than the stock rubber (in either thickness). I’m curious to hear the difference l, however subtle, between my stainless mat and the Micro Seiki.

I recall seeing the TTM mat in your system pics @albertporter - what was your impression? And have you tried the Micro in comparison?

Thanks!

Nice photo @chakster !

au_lait,
If you have the TTM Monitor Mat you have the best mat, at least in my opinion.   I've had many mats, including the ceramic Kenwood, Micro Seiki CU180 and the more rare Micro Seiki CU500.
Also had Funk Firm, Copper TT Weights platter mat, a glass mat with Teflon sheets on either side (cannot remember name but was from Japan).
I still have half a dozen clamps and weights to use with various mats.   The sound from the turntable pretty much mimics the mat material.  Meaning soft rubber mat or Vinyl mat like Funk Firm is slower and rounder.
A metal mat like Micro Seiki CU-180 is much more controled and the Micro Seiki CU 500 even more so.  

The TTM Monitor is the most controlled, fastest and lowest distortion, some LPs get suprisingly close to my master dubs.  Very low overshoot or smear, very quick but without artificial hardness.

The Micro Seiki would probably still be second choice if I could not find a TTM Monitor mat.  Be aware though, the original genuine Micro Seiki is the best of the "copper colored" mats because it's made from Gun Metal, not just copper. 

Last, if you use either Micro Seiki mat or the TTM Monitor mat the TTM damper with oil is by far the best.  This weight continues the sound of the mat deeper into the music. 

Second best record clamp is the discontinued TT Weights Copper/Brass version with damping and third would be the Pierre Lurne / Audiomeca record clamp.
I still have all these still and continue to retest from time to time.   I recently changed all my electronics so I will go back and see if my opinion will change with this new sound.