Does anyone have any diy advice on how to support heavy power plugs that sag from the wall outlet? I have Shunyata cords and I also have Shunyata's SR-Z1 outlet. However the power plugs still sag. Shunyata sells the Cable Cradle, which is the perfect fix, but I feel like there must be some diy alternative.
FYI the Shunyata’s SR-Z1 outlet is basically a stock Hubbell HBL5362, (20 amp), duplex outlet. It has good contact holding pressure but it is no where near that of Furutech Receptacles outlets or the Audioquest NRG Edison Duplex Wall Outlet .
As for making a diy cable support device I made a duplex plate plug single cup support like the photo on the left in this Link. Sonore Power Cord Support .
Though I do not have any big heavy power cords I made the plug support just to see how hard it would be to make. Hard to believe they sell for $80.00. Once I decided how I would make it, based on looking at the photo in the above Link, from start to finish it took me about 30 minutes.
There are three components that are needed to build the plug support unit.
* A good strong white non breakable duplex plate (Like a Leviton or Pass & Seymour.)
(One coupling will make two support cups. So you could build two outlet duplex plate units.)
* Glue to bond/fasten the cup to the plate.
I used a Miter Saw to make the three cuts needed to the PVC coupling. With The Miter Saw from layout to finish making the three cuts it took maybe 5 minutes. Some sanding with 120 grit sand paper on the two cup tails to round off the sharp cut edges maybe another 3 to 5 minutes. (Only sanded the tails on one cup).
I’ll try to download a a couple of photo of the unit I made later this evening.
"Hospital grade" plugs are a large part about hard to unplug. they are hard to plug in and I don’t think they will sag.
The only difference between the Hubbell HBL 5362, 20A, Extra Heavy Duty outlet and a Hubbell 20 amp extra heavy duty hospital grade outlet is the hospital grade outlet has a beefed up equipment ground contact and the green dot on the face plate. Downside of most, maybe all, of the Hubbell hospital grade outlets manufactured today have nickel plated contacts and a galvanized steel supporting back strap. Neither are good for feeding audio equipment.
@jea48's idea is clever. I know Furutech makes an even more expensive cord support. I glued hockey pucks together in stacks, use 'em for this purpose. Cheap but effective and requires zero skills.
I first cut the coupling down from 1-1/2" to 1-1/8". Reason for making it shorter is for plugging the plug in, but more importantly, unplugging the plug from the receptacle. Therein not pulling on the cord to help with unplugging it.. It gives the user 3/8" more of the plug body to grasp when unplugging it. There is still plenty of the cup to support the plug body. 3/8" may not sound like much but 3/8" makes a difference when trying to unplug the plug from an outlet like the Audioquest NRG duplex outlet. My Son gave me one a couple of years ago. It’s a pain in butt to pull a plug out of the duplex outlet. I’m not sure how how easy it would be to unplug a plug from the NRG if it was installed in tight place like behind an equipment stand.
As for using two uncut couplings... That wouldn’t work... I think the single cup support will support the plugs of two cords. When plugging in two Furutech plugs into a duplex outlet the bodies of the two plugs touch, rest, against one another.
The glue I used to fasting the cup to the duplex plate I used some GORILLA Super Glue I already had. I let it dry for 24 hours before applying pressure on the cup. Applying a lot of downward pressure it held with no problem. If I was to make another plug support unit I would buy a two part epoxy glue for plastic/PVC. Just an added note. I sanded, scuffed, the finish off the duplex plate real good where the Cup would be glued to the plate. That’s a must no matter what glue you use. For a better word you need to establish a "saw tooth" in the area of the plate the cup will be glued to. I also lightly scuffed up the side of the cup I cut off with the Miter Saw blade. FYI I used a piece of 120 grit sand paper on a flat surface. I then placed the cut edge of the cup on the sand paper, keeping the cup firmly flat against the sand paper while scuffing the edge of the cup. Point is you don’t want to round either side of the cup edges.
Thanks for this explanation. The connector housing is something I hadn't thought about and you're absolutely right. I might try this. Can you send a photo if possible?
My Daughter is come over tonight. I will have her, hopefully, post a couple of photos on the thread.
FWIW, I like @whartidea of the Hockey Pucks. You could get creative and start with a puck laying flat for a base.
Then two standing vertical
One flat
Two vertical
And so on until you reached the desired height.
For fine tuning you might have to double two horizontally for the base
Even tvad ideas were good. If PVC pipe, say 3/4" or even 1", were used for the riser, the base could be a no thread PVC floor flange. I’m sure there a top PVC fitting that could serve as a cradle support.. And the top cradle fitting could be made adjustable for different heights.
One thing about resting, supporting, from the floor it ain’t gonna give...
Edit:
The top cradle support could be a 1-1/2" Tee with a reduced sized leg. The top of the 1-1/2" tee would have half of it horizontal length cut away making a cradle to support the plug body or cable.
Thanks for posting those photos. It looks very professional and elegant. I don't have a Miter saw but I could make a rough cut and then sandpaper. The vertical support is also a good idea but that would be a challenge in my space because of how things are arranged down below. The easiest thing would be drill a wall anchor above the outlet and secure with a zip tie but that might not look very neat.
If you use that method,... I would recommend you use what is could a Plastic Toggler for the wall anchor. It’s clean looking and it really holds when installed correctly.
Drill a 5/16" hole in the drywall for installing Toggler. I assume it is 1/2" drywall...
From the manufacture:
Grips and locks on walls or ceilings 3/8-in to 1/2-in thick (e.g., residential drywall) for medium duty holding, but also works if you hit an unexpected solid, like a wood stud. Holds up to 143 Lbs. in 1/2-in drywall with #8 x 1-1/2-in Combo head screw included in the package. (Industry standards recommend 1/4 of this ultimate load per anchor. see our technical bulletin.) also works with any screw #6 through #14 with a minimum thread length of 1-1/4-in plus the thickness of the item to be anchored. Needs only a 5/16-in drill bit
FYI IF the outlet rough-in box is a standard 2" wide, nominal, (which more than likely it is), The box will be fastened to, (I assume), a wood stud. If you are going to center the anchor exactly centered on the outlet, above the outlet, use care drilling the 5/16" hole through the drywall. Stop the bit just as it goes thru the drywall. You don’t want hit any Romex cable that may be stapled to the Stud. It’s suppose to be stapled in the middle of the stud, BUT! Don’t take a chance. Also I would stay at least 6" to 8" above the top of the box to avoid the chance of hitting any Romex entering or exiting the top of the box.
When installing the Toggler install the wings vertically.
You might want to fasten something like this to the anchor on the wall.
Mounting base . With this base, if it will work, use a flat head sheet metal screw to fasten it to the anchor. The FH of the SMS won’t interfere with installing the Tyrap through slots in the base.
I would probably use at least a 3/16" wide, maybe a 1/4" wide Tyrap. Use a black color Tyrap. Not a clear...
Hmm, Have you thought of using a Velcro strap instead of a Tyrap, zip tie?
/
FYI, I have an idea for a plug support, using a flat metal bracket that will fasten to the bottom 6/32 machine screw that supports the bottom Yoke of the wall duplex receptacle to the wall box. The trap will have a slot that will allow it to slide between the outlet support Yoke and the box. (only the 6/32 screw will need to be loosened to install the bracket.
The flat bracket will go down just below the bottom of the outlet wall plate then turn out away from the wall around 2" and then turn up toward the plug body of the plug. I’m still working on how it will turn horizontally under the bottom of the plug. Also I thinking about making the vertical riser and the piece that supports the plug two pieces . Splitting the two will allow the riser to be adjustable for different outside diameters of plug bodies being used. It’s a work in progress.
I used a fat shoestring crossed above the outlet and screwed it into the stud that was there. Use a 1.5" drywall screw to fasten it. Needs to be just big enough loop to slip the cable through and then plug it into the outlet. The tension behind the plug holds it in place. It works. Is it beautiful? Not a bad look.
@jea48- what a nice, neat job you did, looks like a finished product.
Using Legos- when you really want to let people know you are "serious" about sound.
Fun thread- it is an issue. Mine was just a quick fix and I don't mind the appearance in a dedicated room. Those big power cords can be a PITA.
One thing you can do with the pucks is stack more or less before gluing (and I guess you don't even have to glue them together) depending on height needed.
I’m pretty sure I could improve the product if I were to build another one. I mean I only spent about 30 minutes making it. If I built another one I might modify the plug support cup slightly with a heat gun. Bring the two tails in just a little bit. I would also try a 2 part epoxy glue to fasten the cup to the duplex plate. I hate working with epoxy though. I probably would have to design, make a jig, so the cup couldn’t move while lowing the cup in place onto the plate. Epoxy is slippery, as I remember when wet.
.
Using Legos- when you really want to let people know you are "serious" about sound.
You could use a small shelf bracket and then place about six inches above the plug in and attached the plug in and using zip ties to attach the wires to the bracket. It will definitely secure the plug-in. The six inch bracket has holes that are pre drilled to attach screws.
You basically made what Sonore sells for $80! I have to say, Sonore's solution is ridiculously expensive for a molded piece of plastic. Well done to you!
I think , as for me personally, I would rather look at 10, 11, or 12 hockey pucks stacked on top of one another pushed against a wall, or slightly out from the wall, than see an anchor above the outlet with a Zip tie hanging from it. That’s just me though.
Heck who knows, Hockey Pucks glued together may absorb vibration from the wall outlet, plug, or cord. You know like them expensive carbon fiber wall plates do.
Hockey Pucks come in different flavors too. Black seems to be cheapest though.
I'm inclined to use multi gang power strips with over currant protection. There are many different ones available and they can be mounted on the baseboard with the floor supporting the cables, others sit on the floor, some with covers to duct multiple feeds.
Common residential receptacles are fed from a 15 or 20 amp circuit so be careful of the load multiple devices connect to each circuit. Most sound systems will not require more than one or two 20 amp circuits. Remember, in a residence there are usually multiple, up to 8, receptacle outlets per room that may also add load to the receptacle circuit you are using. Another option might be to replace the plugs with side wired plugs that will allow the cord to run in various directions close to the wall.
Commercial applications can be designed to provide multiple circuits adapted to heavy load requirements and cable support doesn't have to be as aesthetically pleasing.
If you are referring to the pictures I posted maybe the manufacturer asked Admin to take them down. I did copy their plate. ???
If you are going to build some like the one I made and are going to use a Miter Saw to make the three cuts to the repair coupling I used a blade made to cut plastic and PVC. I already had the blade.
FYI, I used a 24" piece of PVC pipe to hold the coupling when making the cuts. Safety first. My Miter Saw has a 12" blade. A lot of damage to fingers and hands with any rotating blade.
Do not use super glue. For a another test I doubled the downward pressure force on the cup and the glue failed. I did push down pretty hard, but... I would try a clear 2 part epoxy made for plastic and PVC. the duplex plate is only around 40 cents. Start out making just one to make sure the epoxy holds.
Thanks again! Can you describe the three cuts? Did you split them into half circles, then take the small amount off the cut edge to keep the outer edge smooth? Ken
Cut the 1-1/2" PVC coupling. (You’ll make three cuts.) (One coupling makes two cups.)
First I cut the length of the coupling to 1-1/8". (Use a piece of 1-1/2" PVC pipe to hold the coupling against the fence of the miter saw. (Around 18" to 24" PVC pipe) Don’t cock the coupling against the fence. You want a nice square cut.
Next cut the coupling in half. (Again use the piece of 1-1/2" PVC pipe to hold the coupling.
My Miter Saw has a 12" blade. To Cut the coupling in half you will need to do a practice setup first. I lowered the blade toward the bed to see approximately where the center of the blade would contact the center of the 1-1/8" length of the coupling. The end of the coupling toward the fence was out about 3-1/2" from the fence. A piece of 2" x 4" wood stud laying flat on the bed against the fence worked just fine... I already had a short piece of a 2" x 4" to use. You only need about an 8" to 10" piece. (The width of your fence block depends on the diameter of your Miter Saw Blade).
Next find center of the coupling. Mark the center on both sides of the coupling using a lead pencil. Also mark the factory end of the coupling so you can see the center. You will use this when turning the coupling to cut the other side of the coupling, making two halves.
(Make sure the end of the 1-1/2" PVC pipe is a good square cut. Verify by making a fresh square cut.)
Slide the coupling over the piece of 1-1/2" PVC pipe. Flush up the outer edge, (the cut off edge), of the coupling to the front of the PVC pipe.
This next part I did free hand. You could probably clamp the pipe to the saw bed. I felt comfortable doing it free hand. YMMV... Hands are not near the blade. That’s what the 18" to 24" piece of 1-1/2" PVC pipe is for.
Next:
Firmly push the PVC pipe/coupling against the 2" x 4" wood block. (Your wood block). Make sure you have the PVC at a right angle against the wood block. Lower saw blade. Align the center of blade on the pencil mark you made on the coupling.
* * *(Warning, the wood block is a must! Looking at the blade toward the motor the blade rotates clockwise. The bottom of the blade rotates toward the fence. Without the block when the spinning blade contacts the coupling it would be forced back towards the fence.)
Start saw.
Lower blade, slowly making the cut through one side of the coupling. Note, you will also be cutting a slot through the 1-1/2" piece of PVC pipe holding the coupling as well. Continue lowing the blade slowly until the blade cuts through the coupling wall. Lowering the blade too fast you might splinter the back side, inter wall of the coupling.
Next:
Something I didn’t do but would the next time. Before cutting the other side of the coupling first put a piece of tape evenly spaced down the middle of the cut you just made. This will hold the coupling together, (minus the saw cut), when cutting the other side. I didn’t tape the side I had cut first and just turned the PVC pipe/coupling 180 degrees. I aligned the blade to the center mark on the coupling and made the cut. When the blade cut through the coupling the two pieces went their separate ways. I picked the two pieces up off the floor. No big deal but the tape would of held, kept, the two cut pieces together.
Next:
I took a piece of 120 grit sand paper, sanded off any burr edges. Then slightly rounded the two 1-1/8" sharp cut tails of the cup. Don’t sand, round off, the back edge. The back edge will glue to the duplex plate. You want a tight looking fit against the plate.
I’m having trouble posting a photo so I’ll just describe my diy cable support:
it’s a floor-mounted piece of plywood measuring 3“ wide x 3/4 “ thick with holes cut at the desired height and diameter to support the cable, with a side cutout to slide the cable sideways into the support.
Well, I wussed out and bought the Sonore. The discount made it worthwhile. I also bought and installed the RACO leveling plate. Wow, my plugs have never had it so good. (I tried to post a photo but I don’t see how to do it. The ’gon link asks for a URL.)
I may still experiment with making my own, for fun and for future applications. There are actually a few outlets around the house that could benefit from this type of plug support. I’m surprised that these types of holders aren’t more common. It seems like something you would find amid the vast array of cable management accessories.
See my pictures in my virtual system for the fix I used. Upgraded the outlet to the Audioquest NRG Edison 20 (big improvement in grasp). I also went to a foam store to buy some rigit foam and cut it to size to support the cable. I also have used this to separate interconnect (cut to size).
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