Hoping to change (or upgrade) my current PC in use with my ARC CD3 Mk2. Currently I'm using a Locus Designs Polestar and setting a limit $600 max. I'd like to find a cord that can get more micro details from the ARC yet, I'd like to retain the smoothness but, try to open the sound stage and get a little more bottom in doing so. I listen to Alt rock (Sir Sly, The Killers, Gargage), rock, blues using Classe CAP 151 integrated and Apogee Slant 6s. I know this is subjective but, I'm also doing my best to work with my budget constraints and I'm not going to change if the improvement would just be slightly incremental. I'd like suggestions to consider, please.
If you want to claim that the engineer in the podcast I’ve posted above doesn’t know about cables since he designs amplifiers, this series of articles might be more to your liking:
For those of you that think that "science" proves that cables can’t sound different, please review the podcast and these articles and report back with the ways in which these articles are wrong. THAT would be a post that I would be interested in reading.
Here's what an electrical engineer who designs audio equipment for PS Audio has to say about why cables sound different. He's got better credentials than any of you. Commentary starts at 55 minutes into the podcast:
What if measurements don’t actually capture everything about how a cable sounds?
To the folks that say that you have miles of electrical cable that run to your outlet, what if a power cable has the effect of filtering out EMI/RFI?
I’ve had a limited amount of experience with power cables but even those sound different. One cable that clearly sounded better on one DAC sounded worse on another DAC. Can anyone explain how psychoacoustic factors would yield that result?
My contribution to this thread: Use the recommendations from others as a starting point only. I suggest trying whatever power cable you are considering in your own system. I would not underestimate the impact of system synergy on what cable works best with your existing components.
Great. A guy comes on looking for power cable recommendations and some tone deaf Troll derails the thread with unsolicited, ignorant opinions. Nice.....
I have listened to several different power cords in my system and yes they sound different with everything else being an equivalent . Get a couple of and check out them out. the foremost expensive ones don’t always win either, but your brain may convince your ears otherwise.
Dynamic Design. Lotus AE15. Trasparent, 3-D (layered and wide) big, quiet, easy detail, neutral, etc. etc. There's one for sale on USAudioMart that would fit your budget. The different will be notable. I'm using the bigger brother Titania and have heard the Lotus. Less tonal density, but that's just being picaune and not true compared to other pc's in the same range. I wouldn't fault that at all - not really noticeable without a/b comparison tp the Tiatnia - you don't miss your water 'til it's gone kind of thing.
Have you ever considered, or are able, to have an electrician install a 20A dedicated line(10 or 12 guage wire) from your breaker box directly to your 20A receptacle?
Makes a big difference in decreasing noise with more and cleaner current.
P.S. I had a Gray 1200 Custom since 2009. Great unit. Though I just upgraded to a PI Audio UberBuss. No MOV’s or surge suppression. Moved that to the breaker box....
Well it looks like everyone missed the most important fact . Those are some REALLY NICE FISH ! My system is low powered tubes , Richard Gray conditioner, Morrow cords . After that was well listened to, I switched my 15 amp outlets to 20 amp medical grade and switched my cord on the Gray to a 20 amp Shunyata Venom HC . That made a noticeable difference . And I bet a really nice bamboo rod would make your system sound considerably better ! I’m so envious! Regards , Mike B .
Since my music was a bit too warm to my ear (I probably overdid with my $4500 speaker cables by Roznent II Bis...could not return them or exchange :( ) so I just cut off power cord that was feeding my upright Frigidaire freezer and spliced it into my system...wow...just wow! Everything came to the right balance. And with the freezer...I just used that cable for charging smart phone...was tricky with all the thin wires to get them settle in a typical plug...but I did it!
ps. sorry of all the product name dropping...but have no association with Roznent or Frigidaire
Hydraulics provide a good analogy for those who do not understand electrical flow.
My recommendations in an AC cord would be limited to those that are either large diameter (small gauge number) with great material (best copper - I do not know about silver for this application) and good connectors. If you can solder, I also highly recommend making cables, although I do not know if this is appropriate for power cables.
I also have personally found that Audioquest or Synergistic Research power cords with potential EMF surrounds also sound better. In your price range, I would recommend Audioquest Blizzard or preferably Thunder (high current).
My system is custom mains from box to wall (underground line direct from step down transformer in a rural setting - power is measurably excellent) > Audioquest wall receptacle > Nordost power system with ground > SR Euphoria power cords to all equipment > Esoteric X-01XD SACD player with external Cybershaft OCXO master clock (OP-19) > Luxman CL1000 preamplifier > Audio Research 250SE power amplifier > Wilson Audio Sasha DAW speakers. Balanced XLR connectors are Shunyata Sigma (1st and 2nd generation), speaker cables are SR Galileos. Custom underground listening cavern with passive absorption and active spectrum reflections at pre-determined locations.
cables and cords will affect your pocketbook more than your system. find a nice looking, well-made cord that puts your mind at ease and enjoy your music. so many better ways to spend money.
A free flow of electrons for those last few feet is critical. I recently replaced a good $600 pc with a better $500 one and the sound must have increased by 25%+.
I personally like the Pangea AC14SE and AC9SE which both use Cardas copper core. I’m sure this choice will be dismissed as not expensive enough, but, this forum is full of nonsensical unprovable opinions, so 🤷🏻♂️
danvignau901 posts07-30-2021 9:31am I have always enjoyed watching people continue wasting time, as I am now doing, striving to adjust their psyches to try to gain approval, both from others and from their view of themselves
This is very odd indeed. I cannot help but observe from your post that both groups are wasting time: 1) audiophiles in their pursuit for perfectness, and 2) you
I wonder who is really wasting more valuable time here, the audiophiles with their systems and enjoyments of music and good audio, or you, reading and writing about them
Each of us has different equipment and different power supplied to us. Mine comes in underground in a large community. Others live in electrically noisy condos. Some systems are mid-fi where small changes aren't apparent to the sound. Others are big bucks where everything you do is audible, good or bad. No one here can really make this choice for you. To choose for my low six figure system, I did a personal cable shootout. With owned cables and and borrowed from many dealers and The Cable Company lending program (Recommended) I accumulated about a dozen PC's ranging in price from $500. to $5000. from all the major manufactures mentioned here. Fortunately, price seemed to make little difference to the sound advantage. I ended up with Shunyata from a dedicated wall outlet to a Denali 2 conditioner and Audioquest Hurricane and Tornado from there to the tube amps and dCS digital sources. Expensive, yes, but far from the most costly and appropriate to the rest of my system. I can't say they are the right choices for you... just get well recommended cables ON LOAN and try them out. I buy nothing that doesn't make a positive difference in the sound of my system.
Once
again, sales pitches from commissioned people are influencing buying
choices.
So it's a conspiracy, is that what you're claiming?
... I have
always enjoyed watching people continue wasting time, as I am now doing,
striving to adjust their psyches to try to gain approval, both from
others and from their view of themselves, as they strive for perfections ...
That's an odd hobby - even weirder than being an audiophile.
I saw this thread a little late. I recently picked up two Shunyata Venom 3 power cables on the used market to pair with PSE Studio V Monoblocks. Really tightened up the bottom end and opened up the soundstage. I know it's some of Shunyata's older technology but at $200 for the pair it is a very effective tweak. Check out the reviews. Happy cable hunting!
I have been exceedingly happy with the AudioQuest Thunder power Cord that I use with my AQ Niagara 1200 power conditioner. As I worked my up the AQ line, from the NRG thru the AQ Blizzard and finally the Thunder, I became more aware of a much better sound quality in my system. As Garth Powell from AudioQuest explains in his many videos and interviews, power cords and conditioners on their own do not add anything to the music, they increase the clarity and detail in recorded music by removing RFI and EMI, and nothing more.
Rsjm80, the problem when you ask a question like yours is that people start recommending power cords and don’t really consider or realize the issue. I myself can not recommend any power cord to you unless I personally hear the cord your presently using and can then know what cord I’ve heard that might give you what your looking for. I think anyone who’s posted info to help who’s heard your present power cord might offer the best advice. I have a ton of cords, amps, preamps, cables etc and I would not guide anyone unless I’m familiar with the item they are presently using.
Once again, sales pitches from commissioned people are influencing buying choices. I think the best person to consider for this advice is the designer of the product. If he, or the bean counters, compromised on such a simple piece of wiring, you should buy a different product, rather than second guessing a compromised design by pouring more money into it. If the power cord is not the best needed for the application of an expensive piece of equipment, the engineer/designer has wasted his time with the rest of the design, and more than likely also used other cheap parts inside the unit. AS far as asking another audiophile, one must control for all possible differences, from the amps, speakers, sources, and of course the room acoustics. But! Keep trying. I have always enjoyed watching people continue wasting time, as I am now doing, striving to adjust their psyches to try to gain approval, both from others and from their view of themselves, as they strive for perfections that continue retreat from us, maybe logrythmically, faster than we can learn that the idea of finding perfection is futile. Just enjoy the music! Don't worry about it. If you hear something that sounds better, decide if it is for you. Quit inventing problems to solve. There are only a few hosts who are worse than an audiophile who, rather than playing good music for his guests, obsesses over a few bars of music, while asking... well, no matter what he asks it is always, "Am I cool enough, yet?"
Anticables power cords are audibly better in my systems. No doubt there are other manufacturers who make good power cords but I think they are exceptional. They have an easy trial policy that makes trying one a no risk proposition. I was quite sceptical before about power cords (and regenerators) - no longer.
If you can find a used Audioquest Thunder, that would be my pick. I never believed in power cords other than having at least a proper gauge to provide enough current until I tried the Audioquest Storm series. I too couldn't believe that a power cord could make any difference. I was wrong. My experience with the AQ cords is that they lower noise. I would have been very happy not to drop $$$ on power cords but the right ones can make a difference. Also, if you are using a power conditioner like a PS Auido P20 or similar using something like the AQ Storm Series cords between your conditioner and equipment is a real plus. The very low impedance of a well engineered power cord with reduce compression of the sound stage in complex passages.
Power cords often cross other cables. The radiated noise can affect the audio in those cables. Look for a shielded power cord from Mouser or Digikey. Don’t get the biggest cable as large gauge wire is cumbersome. 16 gauge is normally sufficient.
I’ve tried many power cables from $ to $$$$. It is not only system dependent but also dependent on which component it’s used on. Therefore be sure you can try or preferably compare several at same time before final sale. Interesting effect I’ve come across is ‘ground path’ plays big role with power cables check out stealth brand cables to learn about/understand it although they are out of price range. A dark or bright cable could be exposing noise in your system to investigate. I found Greatest power related benefit using equitech balanced power standalone unit. Undid my 4 separate dedicated lines in favor of balanced unit. If you go that route wait on cable purchase because it changes things. Btw Subs and computer/hardrives are big noise producer on ac lines to other components. Obtained huge benefit with furutech top line connectors opposed to same cable without them. On lower price end try vh audio airlsine great for price and for very basic budget but good quality try signal cable brand in ny. Upgrade a/c outlet in wall porter port ac outlet inexpensive furutech also good but more expensive option. My preferred order to proceed 1 wall outlet 2 balanced power 3 cables - biggest improvement preamp then music server then dac Hopefully saved you some time and $$ Happy Listening
I’ve got Apogee Duetta II Signatures with a big BAT VK-600 with bat pack solid state amp and VK-5i tube preamp with a Node2 streamer and MHDT Orchid tube DAC. My speaker cables are Symo LS4X. All of my power cords and interconnects are entry level Silnote Audio and I’m extremely happy with them. The power cords are only around $100 each. For more details check out my virtual system.
Make your own get good Furutech Copper good connectors and buy Furutech nano fluid bulk wire it will compete with $1200 cables for less then 1/2 that cost.
Picking up my TWL 7 PC today. It's going on my integrated and I'm going to try the loaner TWL 10 on my phono pre. Also am demoing an Analysis Plus Power Oval 2 that I will rotate in. Should be an interesting few days. We have some friends visiting as well so listening time will be limited till Tuesday.
I guess I am the moron now. I’d rather trust you guys over Armirm at Audio science Review. He’s not that accomplished of a guy, I looked him up, He probably bought that $28,000 piece of review equipment off of the interest he made on his money this month after retiring from Microsoft. He’s probably bored so he decided to start a website. Here is his story.
I am Electrical Engineer by degree (and hobby) although most of my professional experience has been in software development. After 35 years in technology sector, I retired as VP of Digital Media at Microsoft in 2008. I am founder of Madrona Digital which is a company that specializes in mid to high-end electronics for residential and commercial properties. I also advise local companies in digital media and co-founded a company in that domain that was sold a few years ago.
Hey Polly and vinyl shadow why don’t you post your chops up here and let’s see who the group would rather follow.
Great to hear. I had an audiophile power cable maker analyze the Triode Wire High Power Digital power cable and he said it was a really good, definitely good sounding cable for the money($800).
If I could only spend $800 on a power cable meant for high current devices, I would definitely buy another Triode HP Digital American(especially to power a power conditioner)....So I am not surprised that any/all of Pete's cables are great.
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