Power cord choice?


Hoping to change (or upgrade) my current PC in use with my ARC CD3 Mk2. Currently I'm using a Locus Designs Polestar and setting a limit $600 max. I'd like to find a cord that can get more micro details from the ARC yet, I'd like to retain the smoothness but, try to open the sound stage and get a little more bottom in doing so. I listen to Alt rock (Sir Sly, The Killers, Gargage), rock, blues using Classe CAP 151 integrated and Apogee Slant 6s. I know this is subjective but, I'm also doing my best to work with my budget constraints and I'm not going to change if the improvement would just be slightly incremental. I'd like suggestions to consider, please.
rsjm80

Showing 17 responses by vinylshadow

@zyphryx

If you are curious about a new power conditioner, take a look at PI Audio's UberBuss. Very reasonably priced and as good or better as much more expensive PWC's.

Also, the power cable to the power conditioner is the most important PC in the chain.

If you are able to get a 20A or 30A dedicated line installed from your breaker box to your equipment receptacle, you will notice a big sonic improvement.

Triode Wire Labs make great cables at reasonable prices. Maybe contact Pete and ask his opinion.
Pete uses very good connectors and his wiring is very good as well.

A CD player has a constant (low)current so you don't need a cable that can deal with high current transient spikes.

A Straight Wire Black Thunder II would also be a good choice and is around $500 I believe for a 1.5m length.
The Puritan 156 was my 2nd choice. It is a very good unit. But I passed on it because it had (9000A) surge suppression chokes or the like and instead had an electrician install a Seimens FS140 with 140,000A protection at the breaker box.

I would look into PI Audio's UberBuss. It has independant outlets, a power factor correction of 1 and a non metal exterior box to eliminate Eddy currents and more. Each outlet handles 20A+( to Puritan's 15A). The UberBuss can actually output 40A+ spikes....It cost less than the Puritan and IMHO is a better power conditioner.

Get a Triode Wire Labs High Power Digital Ameican power cable with the $ you saved and you'll be in the best situation.

Look into the UberBuss before you buy.
That makes a lot of sense. 15A inlets, esp with the female connectors having that notch in it, makes for a swiveling connection. I was advised, and will do it soon, to wrap the connection in Teflon tape to tighten the fit.

That's one reason i went with a 32A Neutrik connector on my power conditioner...That sucker locks in.
You are right...Sorry.

I think for a low current CD player, the OP does not need to spend exhorbitant money on a power cable. I’d recommend either a Straight Wire Black Thunder II(less than $600) or a Vertere Acoustics Redline(more than $600).

I would suggest the Black Thunder II at around $400 for 1 meter and, at 25 pounds, buy 3 Townshend Seismic pods to tripod(or 4) for vibration control. IMHO, the vibration control might be more important than the power cord for a CD player.


@rixthetrick

You make a good observation about total wattage used. It was recommended to me to try to figure that out.

Your Wattage needs are below mine for sure. I have 2 350W Rowland Model 12's, 2 other Rowland amps for surround, a 75W Classe processor, a 450W plasma TV and 6 other lower current analog and digital source components.

One factor was that I didn't want any surge suppression devices/technology in my power conditioner.

The 156 is a very good unit but I couldn't figure out why it had a 20A power cord and IEC inlet but 15A outlets...

Just to mention, the base UberBuss is $1195 and has upgraded outlets. I upgraded beyond that and had a few DigiBuss outlets substituted for standard.
I understand....I've read that while not sustained there are transient current peaks that occur during some musical passages that demand more current.
A properly made power cord and an IC not only can make a difference, they do make a difference.

You are free to believe whatever you choose.


@raysmtb1
That guy spent $28,000 on an Audio Precision sine wave generator?

Who’s the moron now?

All these "tests" are nonsense. It’s how the cables sound to those things on the side of your head.


@bajaed

Great to hear.
I had an audiophile power cable maker analyze the Triode Wire High Power Digital power cable and he said it was a really good, definitely good sounding cable for the money($800).

If I could only spend $800 on a power cable meant for high current devices, I would definitely buy another Triode HP Digital American(especially to power a power conditioner)....So I am not surprised that any/all of Pete's cables are great.

No. Wrong. Max saw that null video and soda pop came out his nose he laughed so hard.

The Audio Science review is nonsense. As is the null bullpuckey video Max chortled at.

I’ll listen to what my ears tell me, thank you.


The Audio Science guy listens to music from his computer, right?


I'll be hooking up my Triode Wire Lab HP Dig American to my Rowland mono amp for my center speaker soon.
@parker65310


How do I find your Virtual system? Better yet, how can I put up my Virtual system. I cannot find the link to do so.


@kozka
I was kidding around!...The power cable initially was for your freezer. Freezer. Cold.....

@buellrider97

Have you ever considered, or are able, to have an electrician install a 20A dedicated line(10 or 12 guage wire) from your breaker box directly to your 20A receptacle?

Makes a big difference in decreasing noise with more and cleaner current.

P.S. I had a Gray 1200 Custom since 2009. Great unit. Though I just upgraded to a
PI Audio UberBuss. No MOV’s or surge suppression. Moved that to the breaker box....