The point of my comment isn’t simply that I don’t care enough about that which seems to be nonsense (I tested a pile of SR fuses years ago and reported my findings...they’re dangerous and useless (the fuses, not my hallowed comments), it’s that few (or zero) serious high end gear manufacturers care about this stuff. If exotic fuse replacements worked at all or any where near as well as claimed either by the the people marketing the stuff or the expectation bias drenched consumers of it, these things would be selling like hotcakes...everybody would be on board...and they aren’t. Far from it. Sometimes, even these days, logic prevails over mythology.
Graphene Sluggo - Unlocking Sonic Scenery
Henceforth to be abbreviated as "g-slug", the Graphene Sluggo from Vera-Fi Audio is getting its own review from me because a few sentences in existing discussions won’t satisfy my desire to fully share my thoughts about these. I feel ready to write, as the last two g-slugs I bought have about 20 hours on them, and the initial four have about 50-60 hours on them. I feel confident enough now to expound. These g-slugs are fascinating creatures; they are not your friendly neighborhood slugs.
For info on the prerequisite purchase needed to use g-slugs, see my review of the companion product, the Swiss Digital Fuse Box (HERE). (There’s an option to choose a g-slug for an upcharge on any SDFB purchase, and currently, SDFB owners get a 20% discount for upgrading.) If you don’t know what a SDFB is, my review was pretty in-depth and should give you most of the info you’d require. I’m a bonafide slug connoisseur with 13 slugs in my digital music streaming system. Yes, THIRTEEN, and soon to be fourteen when a new component arrives! Some devices have more than one slug, and I have them in subwoofers, external power supplies, everything I can manage because sonically it affects each device. Slugs replace fuses in your components’ fuse holders and SDFB is a non-sacrificial overcurrent protection device installed upstream from the fuse holder inline with alternating current. The SDFB is the key to slug town.
I’ll start at the end by getting to the point now, then walk through some details and my recommendations. G-slugs are better than other slugs. They are solid copper cylinders the size of standard fuses that have vacuum deposited graphene on the surface -- and its a thick, solid matte black coating with no etchings on the surface.
If you just want the gist, g-slugs make any device with a fuse holder (and a SDFB upstream) produce more linear, extended frequency response that constructs a soundstage and its sonic images with greater precision and dimensionality than you currently experience 
. They bring you one step closer to 3-dimensional life-like music reproduction and help vanquish speaker locations, perceived room boundaries, and obstacles to musical immersion... your worst enemies!
Okay, first thought: Solid copper slugs sound better than fuses and reduce resistance between fuse holder endpoints drastically... to almost zero, right? Is that all that matters? If that were so, then everyone would use humongous 6 awg copper conductors for all cables to get really low resistance. The reality is that there are many other aspects of the power conduction chain, like dielectric properties, crystal barriers, and a bunch of other properties of various materials, their shapes and surfaces, construction geometries, etc, that result in various sonic consequences. Most of the slugs I had been using were solid copper and I chose to hand-sand and polish the surfaces to a mirror finish and clean them carefully in order to extract the finest high-frequency details (yes, this is effective in resolving systems), which is related to the well-known "skin effect" of conductors. Yet, a graphene-coated surface dramatically outperforms my best attempts at solid copper slug surface modifications.
To get the point across, here’s a hypothetical numerical rating scale of 1-10 with my best estimates to compare sonics of the different options I’ve tried inside fuse holders:
If a stock fuse with a tiny resistive wire is a 1 and sounds the worst, then:
- a custom fuse with crystals, high voltage treatments, etc, is a 2 or maybe 3,
- brass slug is a 4,
- copper slug with original machining surface ridges and an engravings is a 5,
- copper slug with a mirror-finshed polished surface is a 6,
- g-slug is a straight 10.
Before g-slugs, my whole system was filled with mirror-finish copper slugs, which are all much better sounding than fuses, except my subwoofer amps, which have gold-plated copper slugs. Here’s what I experienced...
Firstly, two large sized g-slugs went into the amp. WHOA. When you first install these, it’s very energetic feeling like you are very close to the performance stage due to the inrush of newfound detail retrieval and emphasis on mids and low treble. I have experience using the top capacitors from Duelund, Jupiter, and V-Cap, and this initial experience is similar to using V-Cap CuTF caps by themselves. It’s like viewing the soundstage with a fish-eye magnifiying glass, which is interesting and highly resolving of details within that particular viewpoint, but it isn’t natural or a linear response. The copper in the slugs gives it the appropriately warm midrange similar to the copper in the CuTF caps, and the graphene enhances the top end. But, I found that g-slugs require about 4-6 hours of burn-in to relax, open up, and evenly express resolution across the audible frequency range and up into the very high frequencies, beyond what your components normally output.
In comparison, the best combination of linear and extended frequency expression that I’ve found in the world of capacitors is the relatively new Jupiter COMET silver foil. Using these by themselves or as a bypass cap in combination with the top V-cap or Duelund caps can be stunningly gorgeous, detailed, and realistic. Yet, they still can’t quite transform the listening experience like what the graphene coating on a g-slug does, which is like uncorking latent resolution and frequency extention, particularly beyond 10-12khz for exceptional spatiousness and realism. It brings out more spatial information that informs your mind of the implied locations of sounds within the soundstage. It also gives you more complex sonic textures, more defined images, and a more even and filled-out sonic picture.
When I was doing testing recently, I took all of the g-slugs out and went back to all polished copper slugs in non-subwoofer components. There was still a lot of details with the copper slugs, but immediately I noticed that the the sound stage flattened out in depth and my speaker locations were revealed with the particular recording I was listening to. I had forgotten how non-existent the speakers had become within the room when the g-slugs were installed. The front wall of my listening room had also previously disappeared, but now seemed to be a containment boundary. There was a loss of space/air in all directions with an obvious roll-off in high frequencies and the sound quality took on a quality that I can only describe as "stylized", as opposed to what was previously effortlessly natural. This is hard to describe, but it was like a more artificial sound quality, and the experience was more like listening to a recording of music or the reflection of a live performance off of a wall instead of a live performance itself. It was no longer a natural, linear frequency response, so the perceived realism suffered. Admittedly, I was a little shocked that I had forgetten how I had previously experienced music in the same room only a couple weeks prior.
I began progressively adding back the g-slugs to my components, and what unfolded with each successive addition were greater overall resolution, more evident spatial relationships and image location stability, a sense of space and transparency, and also a feeling of immersion into the musical experience and my satisfaction with it. These g-slugs have some real magic about them, and that’s why I’m writing this. Lastly, I think the contrast between silence and sonic substance widens, so it *seems* like there’s a "blacker background" from which the sounds arise from, but I think it’s actually about your components simply producing more sonic information to build a more convincing sonic scene than it is about removing interfering low-level noise. I think there’s something about the super-conductivity of the thick graphene coating that is more than a noise-filtering application.
In order of highest to lowest impact in components I installed g-slugs in:
1) upgrading from polished copper slugs to g-slugs in the amp had the largest effect, then
2) DAC
3) preamp, tied with the streamer’s external power supply
4) Farad Super3 linear power supplies for modem and Fidelizer router separates. Effect here was minimal, so I’m using the copper slugs in them.
My recommendation is to put a g-slug(s) in your amp. If you don’t like it, ummm, I would be shocked. If you have a DAC, do that too. I think a good goal would be to make approx 50% of your slugs g-slugs, and use slugs with a very smooth polished or plated surface in your other components. If you put g-slugs in ALL of your components that use IEC fuses, then you may end up with a need to balance tonality because of the additional top end energy, but for me, that’s not a problem because I have 101 ways to accomplish that balancing act, from power cable connectors, to which components they are powering, to capacitor combos connected to ground planes, to modifying acoustical treatments, etc. In other words, the things that you previously used to boost high frequencies may become obsolete. Overall, tonality of the g-slugs is really excellent and I'm using a lot of g-slugs to gain all the extra resolution I can. They extend all the way in both directions, and give you meat and bones and body... and the beauty of the finest airy details, too.
I feel justified in my enthusiasm about g-slugs after they’ve burned in for awhile. They are transformative in a way that is similar to going from a stock fuse to a SDFB with a copper slug. If you want a higher resolution sound system, g-slugs. If you go from a stock fuse and zero SDFB’s in your system straight to a SDFB and a g-slug on your amp(s), please leave your comments here for me to read! :)
166 responses Add your response
@gladmo Incredible report. Im curious to know whether you previously treated all connections with graphene oxide (GO)? About 2 years ago I applied Mad Scientist GO to all my connections, one at a time, starting with my transport, then dac/pre,... As I read your analysis I was reminded of how similar my experience in painstaking applying GO to each component connection then listening before moving to the next excited me. Im in no way suggesting using liquid GO would replace the g-slugs, but there might be a little more magic to be had |
@wolf_garcia https://positive-feedback.com/reviews/hardware-reviews/vera-fi-swiss-digital-fuse-box/ |
@pickindoug
The "simple answer" is that FuseBox will hold 100% current rating indefinitely. When steady current consumption gets to 110% it will trip.
The complication is the logic we have developed to analyze current draw at turn-on so we can identify an over-current condition when Fast Blow or Slow Blow are specified, all of which takes place in less that 1 second. We also check if an actual short-circuit condition exists, in which case the current is cut off in less than 1/10th of a second.
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Since I’m clearly too lazy to follow what seems like more florid hyperbole and pseudo science regarding fuses, I’ll simply state again that when people I respect in the high end audio business (Nelson Pass, Stoddard and Moffat, Bill Low...etc.) start paying ANY attention to the tiny percentage of audio fans and manufacturers involved in the Special Magical Fuses Athletic Supporter World, maybe I’ll change my mind about these things. Unlikely...I enjoy listening to great music too much for such distractions. |
@ verifiaudio "You are correct - no B+ or Speaker Fusing please - AC Mains ONLY. SDFB is very safe and has proven itself to be very reliable and easy to use. " That doesn't quite answer my question regarding the response time of the SDFB vs conventional glass / wire fuses, for which the reaction time to blow is current dependent. For example, the fuse standards state: At full current rating, they can take up to 4 hours to blow. At 135% of current rating, 1 hour to blow. At 200%, they blow in 5 seconds. How does this specifically compare with the load to blow reactions of the SDFB? Would a 1 amp FB SDFB blow in 5 seconds at 2 amps? 1 hour at 1.35 amps? |
@veerossi All but one of my audiophile friends have switched from SR fuses to treated Acme fuses. At $22 to $24 each, they are a bargain, don’t tend to blow like SR fuses at the same as OEM fuse ratings and are neutral, lacking in a sound alteration. @wokeuptobose Thank you for elucidating the safety feature of the Sluggo system which has an apparent circuit breaker prior to the equipment. I do have a question. What happens if the equipment itself has an electrical problem that would blow fuse for protection? I’m not well versed on electronics so I don’t know the answer. As to the SR Purple fuse, I also tried an Orange fuse but the former was just altering the sound frequency like SR cabling-distorts the linearity of the signal. Yuk! I liked the SR Blue fuse although it tended to darken the sound. The SR Purple made it brighter, thinner, more open and had less bass. Of course I burned them in for 100s of hours prior to coming to my conclusions. Now a SR Pink fuse at $250, forget it. And of course their vaulted SR White fuse at $650. Just throwing away cash. See my audio system. It’s not SOTA but definitely high end. I will check with Fred and see if the Sluggo/circuit breaker system is safe and approved for the Poseidon. Would an upgraded rectifier tube make a bigger difference than the Sluggo/circuit breaker system? |
Installing a Sluggo or "bolt" in place of a rated fuse and connecting directly to the wall power is dangerous and none of us here are suggesting that. The "bolt"/Sluggo is not the Swiss Digital Fuse, but the Sluggo is what contributes to the improvment in sound. The SDF is a small box that does include a form of circuit breaker, and MUST be placed between the wall and the component where you installed the Sluggo. I was concerned at one point that placing a box with in and out sockets between a Shunyata Typhon 2, 30 amp umbiilical cord and an Audioquest Dragon was going to ruin the sound. In fact for me ,the gain in sound quality over my then Purple fuses was well worth it. After 5 years of periodically evaluating fuses I have found that listening to each fuse going into a component to be a pain in the ass. Sometimes I didn't hear much change and it took real work to figure out if the change was an improvement or just a change. Not subtle each time I put a SDF in a component. It was easy to decide that I should keep the SDF instead of returning it and getting my money back. My order for 4 Graphene sluggos has been placed. I will post what I think of them. |
@larryi How about this instead, if possible, replace with a circuit breaker. My cable/equipment manufacturing friend did so in his amplifiers after he heard the difference my boutique fuse made from the original Littlefuse. That’s one alternative and safe possibility. My Lampizator Poseidon has a warranty warning I assume NOT to use a Sluggo. The manual states "WE ABSOLUTELY DO NOT ALLOW changing the fuses for any larger size than 2A or installing the “audiophile silver bolts” in place of the fuse. Fuses are there mainly to SAVE YOUR LIFE. And we mean that. You can experiment with audiophile grade fuses but not DEAD BOLTS please. At $25K, I will follow the warranty warning (not just advice).
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Thank you for such a well written and well executed test. Trying all those fuses, going back and forth and critically listening to them had to be a chore. I left the TED team almost a year ago, only because with each Swiiss digital fuse and sluggo the component sounded better. I run two in my Gryphon Antilleon EVO, and one each in my Lampizator Horizon DAC and Grimm MU1 streamer. I suspected at the time that Sluggo rolling was going to be a "thing". I will be ordering 4 of the Graphene sluggos today! I used to expect that when I put compatible high quality components together everything would be perfect. As I mature in this hobby I am slowing down the rotation of components and spending small amounts of money on things like physical isolation, room acoustics, grounding, fuses/sluggos, and tube rolling. These smaller, cheaper modifications are making the sound of my system much more lifelike, engaging and rewarding. |
I will add this as it has just posted today |
As an avid audio enthusiast and repair/restoration tech, I'm always eager to learn about opportunities to improve existing gear. This post prompted a poke around the 'net to see what more could be gleaned from the SDFB. First of all, it appears to only be used in the AC line. It's not designed for speaker fuses (as in Magnepan), or B+ rails as are commonly found in solid state. As an occasional tube amp designer and builder, I have researched appropriate devices for both protection and current limiting (for soft start), and this brings me to 3 thoughts on the topic. 1. Standard glass fuses (3AG) typically have the following performance spec: At full current rating, they can take up to 4 hours to blow. At 135% of current rating, 1 hour to blow. At 200%, they blow in 5 seconds. Does the SDFB mirror this or does it kick out at a few % over the rated current (which would actually limit headroom vs a fuse that takes 2x current transients without blowing)? 2. I wonder whether a device, i.e. a DAC, preamp, or other low draw gear) with a well regulated power supply would benefit, as the power supply itself levels the variations, whether transient or those driven by voltage fluctuations. 3. In solid state power amps there are generally other devices downstream from the AC fuse that would be replaced by the highly conductive graphene, such as a power transformer, low value resistors in the power supply for surge control, and banks of large value capacitors on the B+ rail that respond rather quickly to the demand for power. The graphene fuse is on the other side of resistors, rectifiers, and a power transformer. I'm going to leave that one there for further thought, as I haven't taken the time to set up a test to compare B+ rail current output vs AC current demand, but would be the proof of concept. |
Nothing to misread. The rewards from the graphene sluggo alone are very small in your opinion. Hard to misconstrue that. From a read of your discussion history it appears your HiFi experience began April 2020. At that point you changed the UK three flat pin socket faceplate of an electrical socket to one that would fit the US pin configuration and you were shocked at the difference. Since then it seems every tweak gets your approval and anyone who disagrees displays combative horror of arrogant ignorance that boggles the imagination. Seems like kind of a lofty opinion for someone 4 years in.
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@veerossi I very recently installed an SDFB × graphene slug in my tube amp that had an SR Orange fuse in it. The largest difference for me was the expansion of the width and depth of the soundstage, and that sense of 3D surround. To a lesser degree there was a bit more dynamics and accuracy in the bass, and a general feeling of a smoother and more accurate tonality to female voices, sax, and piano. Not jaw dropping like some folks have reported, but an immediate and obvious positive change in the listening sessions. It's a definite keeper for me and I'm ordering a second unit to try in both my DAC and Pre. The fact it's a no risk tryout makes it easy. |
@dwcda - I believe you have misread that quoted statement entirely. No slip there and entirely in keeping with everything else I’ve said. Do not mistake the fuse box itself for what brings the sound quality gains - its only function is to protect the equipment, to the possible effect of subtle signal degradation, clearly. The gains all come from the sluggo that has replaced the fuse, which you could adopt without use of the SDFB, but with the risk of leaving your equipment unprotected. I will not be responding any further - from a read of your discussion history, it appears you have made your mind up based on your unsuccessful experiences with listening tests due to sighted confirmation bias, beliefs that also appear to spill over into the realm of fuses - nothing more I say will convince you otherwise, if so. But if you’re still open to exploration, dont let that discourage you from developing your listening ability to a more heightened state, and also from realising that sighted bias runs both ways, for those who believe only in the rational side of science, while leaving out the empirical. In friendship - kevin |
I’ve spent a bunch of money on SR fuses and they made a meaningful positive impact in my system. Today I come across this ad/thread. Does anyone have experience going from Purple SR fuses to this thingy majigger? If so, where is the best spot for 1 possibly 2 (not 3 or 4)? Preamp, class D monoblocks, DAC/streamer? |
@1971gto455ho, To show how important fuses can be here is a story from Paul at PS Audio, Here's a subject that simply drives some people nuts. Fuses. Change the power fuse in a DAC or preamp and the sound changes, depending on the type of fuse you change to. I first became aware of fuses and their sonic differences in the 1980s. We were working on releasing the 200C power amplifier, designed by Bob Odell. This 200 watt per channel amplifier was the best sounding power amplifier we had ever produced and we labored long and hard polishing every part and decision to perfection. In those days we relied upon an output fuse to protect the loudspeaker and the amp from each other. Too much current passes through the amp and the fuse blows, disconnecting the power amp's output. The prototype amplifiers didn't have output fuses. It wasn't until we got to the production versions that we added them, and that's when the trouble started. The production amplifier didn't sound as good as the prototype: thinner, weaker, with less bloom and midbass strength, relative to the prototype. Why the two sounded so different was a real head scratcher. When faced with such differences, you start removing any changes between the two until they sound the same. It didn't take long before we discovered it was the damn output fuse. Short it with a clip lead and the fullness of the music returned. This vexed us greatly because we wanted the sound of no fuse while enjoying the benefits of its protection. Different types of fuses sounded differently too. We gold plated the fuse and its holder to see if that would help. It did. But not a lot. We even tried bypassing it with a small capacitor. That helped to, but wasn't a good idea. And neither solved the problem. In the end we came up with a clever scheme. We took the feedback for the amplifier not from the amplifier's output, but from the output of the fuse. Thus, the fuse was included in the amplifier's corrective feedback loop, and the fullness returned to the music. (For those of you giving this some thought, we also added a 100Ω resistor in parallel with the fuse so if the fuse blew the amp would remain stable). With the clarity of hindsight there are many explanations of why this mattered, damping factor changes not the least of them. The point of the story is simple. Fuses matter. But why should they matter in the AC circuit? I don't have a great answer handy. But we'll look some more tomorrow. |
@dwcda And anyone else that chooses to listen to my opinion, installing anything in place of an actual fuse designed by the manufacturer is absolutely ridiculous. We’re not talking a yes or no belief in cables there’s actually a total equipment failure possibility. I’m dating myself here but just curious as to how many have actually wrapped a fuse with tinfoil in a car only to have something short and burn out ? With regards to that slug or anything of that nature in the ac line improving the sonic nature of your music that is a preposterous pile of …. IMO. Cheers |
You said the exact opposite of that, in enough detail to make it not a slip of the tongue. If the product is good, it should be good enough not to make up virtues.
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@dwcda - please forgive me, I misread your response, and conflated it with gto’s. Yes indeed, I thought it was clear that the sluggo is what is doing all the work - the fuse box itself merely serves as protection for the removed fuse, and is not there to improve sound quality. The point is that the improvement with the sluggo in place is so great, it renders the degradation introduced by the fuse box marginal. But don’t listen to me, listen to your system with a sluggo and the fuse box protection in your server/streamer/pre - it’s all fully returnable.
In friendship - kevin |
@kevn definitely not rocket science, or any kind of science. Obviously I’m not asking how the sluggo can be used alone, I’m asking by what logic an external fuse can improve SQ vs no external fuse. Using that logic I’d guess you could skip the sluggo and just use your normal fuse with this device and get most of the supposed gain. |
@dwcda - the SDFB set up consists of the externalised digital fuse box, a pigtail power cord and a sluggo. The sluggo can be used to replace the fuse without concurrent use of the fuse box and pigtail, but this leaves the equipment in question unprotected. And yes, with and without listening is best done after everything has been running for a few days already, and after having fresh changes settle in over a couple of tracks at least. It takes effort, but isn’t rocket science ; )
In friendship - kevin. |
Eyes glazed over 2 paras in. I suppose am glad that somebody here understands all that and can maybe apply it to their system. I went to the SDFB website for perhaps a dldimpker explanation but. .nope same electrical engineer goobledy-gook. No idea whatsoever if this is useful info to me for my system. The only components in my system I know for sure even have fuses are the Maggie 1.7is. |
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That doesn't make sense to me. Can someone explain this concept, how this device can improve the sound vs not using the device? I understand the need to use it for safety but how can it be better for SQ over eliminating it?
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@larryi - I’m not sure your question was answered, but I’ve found the greatest gains in their effect on the server and preamp, in equal proportion. Second would be the dac. Last would be the entire linear power supply chain for source equipment; meaning modem, routers and switch. Use on my two other amps equipped with a replaceable fuse came last for gains in SQ. In response to greater clarity of function/application asked for by emergingsoul, the Swiss digital fuse box basically takes the protective function of the traditional fuse out of the equipment in question, and digitises that protection into a little silver box located just before the equipment itself, or right after the power outlet, connected by your existing power cord and an adaptor, or a short length of power cable termed a pigtail. I have not noticed a difference in sound quality either way. What I can say in relation to larryi’s comment about the additional connections required to connect the SDFB to the related power outlet, is that the simple effect of replacing the bottleneck the traditional fuse has always been suspected of creates such a profound uplift to sound realism, that the additional regular connections and single cable required matter so much less in the big picture. While I have no doubt audiophile grade connectors and pigtail might make yet another difference, just what I hear is beyond explanation and belief. Of course we could hardwire within the piece of equipment in question to replace the fuse, but the simplicity of just replacing it with the sluggo has its tremendous benefit of convenience. I have tried the graphene sluggo without the SDFB in place, and the rewards are very small in relation to the replacement of the fuse with the entire SDFB set up, and certainly far too small to leave my equipment unprotected with omission of the fuse box. i have never been in doubt that power delivery meant the most to sound quality and realism: the SDFB merely underlines that fact so convincingly, I have not heard any better with any power cable or distributor prior. It is my belief this technology with come to replace traditional equipment safety in the years to come.
In friendship - kevin |
bill_k I like the Meow GR even more. Notice that it comes in two colors: Titanium Black color will give a high dynamic range. Ruby Red color will give a warm and rich music ambient. https://verafiaudiollc.com/products/meow-gr-by-tombo-audio-titanium-black |
If you think this is "a bridge too far" you should check out some of their other product offerings, like the Lotus Harmonic Enhancer and the Meow Electro-Acoustic devices. |
The UK has the safest electricity supply in the world since all power cords are mandated to have fused mains connections. I remember seeing that in some audio review article and always thought, how neat is that? To have the fuse in the power mains where it connects to the wall. Looks like someone saw the value in that and came up with the Swiss Fuse Box, allowing one the luxury of skipping/experimenting with anything down from the mains outlet. Since it’s a regular thing in England, one would wonder how much a mains power cord goes for. A quick look online shows all manner of English mains cords for anywhere around $3.10 to $141.43 and that was just on the first page. All fuse protected. I’m sure the Swiss Fuse Box is built to a much higher standard and is more versatile but maybe not for what they’re asking, but hey, no one else is making and marketing one for the US. If one could correctly wire an English wall outlet that would meet US standards, maybe one could do this on the cheap provided the cord passes audiophile standards here, stateside. Here’s the audiophile approved one from the UK.
And wouldn't you know, the same company makes one specifically for the US. A fused mains connection that'll work without rewiring your wall outlet.
All the best, |
For those that are into the fuse replacement game AND the cable replacement game it seems you need to buy a sluggo (graphene cost $276 Cdn), the SDFB $547 Cdn plus another high end power cord. I mean if you already have an AQ Hurricane High cord going to your amp you'll probably want the smallest size available to go from your SDFB to your wall. Without the power cord you're in for $800+ Cdn for the fuse gear plus whatever you need to pay to be satisfied with power cord. Wouldn't make sense to go with a stock cable. Multiply that by however many fuses you feel the need to replace, but if replacing one makes a difference it would make sense that replacing them all would be even better. |
