Dedicated Vinyl system next upgrade?

@swann36 ok so I’ve spent some time with the new power cable. I really like it a lot! Best $50 upgrade I’ve ever made. I’m noticing a lower noise floor and a slightly tighter bass. It’s not dramatic but it’s definitely there. I really like your suggestion of replacing one thing at a time. Much easier to know what affect each change has on things. I’m thinking about swapping the power cable on the phono stage next!

@paulgardener ....looking forwards to reading what differences you hear with the new power cable when it arrives ....my suggestion is to try different things but only replace 1 thing at a time, that way you will know what impact each part has 

@paulgardner ...

Nordost was my first exposure to Power cables that made an easily discernible improvement
- I was in a demo room at a show with about 15 other audio guys
- so it was less than "ideal" listening conditions.-
- The Nordost guy played a track
- replaced ONE power cable on the source component
- replayed the track
- the difference was easily heard by everyone.

I also agree with @tablejockey..

Tread lightly in the cable zone and keep your ears wide open

I've trusted my ears for several years and have not been disappointed :-)

There are many options/brands looking to get your cash and trying to discern which ones actually provide significant benefits can be time consuming and expensive.

InAkustic - uses an exceptional geometry and metallurgy to achieve stunning results
Nordost - uses a different geometry and materials that also work exceptionally well

Unfortunately - all that development comes at a price point which may not suite every budget.

So keep an eye out for resale cables.
- Even older versions of cables from these two brands will offer great performance.

Regards - Steve

 "sure I will try something from Nordost next."

If you decide to go down that road, this is where to start
https://nordost.com/leif/blue-heaven/blue-heaven-power-cord.php
This power cord is where you get their upper level technology.

Tread lightly in the cable zone and keep your ears wide open.

My system is Nordost wall to speakers.

@williewonka thanks for the post. I have ordered what I’m sure many people here will consider to be an entry lever power cable. I went with the $60 BLE  16mm (10ga.) Hi-End Rhodium Plated Power Cable that a couple people recommended earlier in this thread. I’m sure I will try something from Nordost next. Hopefully the cable I ordered will be better than the stock power cable. We will see! Thanks and yes I agree, lots of great info here. This is a very helpful community. Much appreciated! 
Paul

I'm with the guys above that mentioned replacing the cables.

The right Cables will make a huge improvement to any system and without great cables you are not hearing the best possible performance from your components.

I have spent the last 6 years auditioning some very good cables and designing my own DIY cables and have been amazed at the continual improvements I have observed from comparatively simple cable upgrade, so I believe Cables are the best starting place for any upgrade venture

Companies like InAkustic or Nordost make some very fine cables that will improve most any system - there are other companies, but these two companies are what I consider to be leaders in cable architecture/geometry, which is key to cable performance 

If you are interested in a DIY approach then read this current Agon thread...
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/duelund-conversion-to-diy-helix-geometry-cabling

There are postings from some very seasoned Audiogon members.

Regards - Steve 

@paulgardner

Would upgrading the capacitors require me sending the amp in or is that something I could do on my own?

+1000

if you are asking this question, you already know the answer....

Would upgrading the capacitors require me sending the amp in or is that something I could do on my own?

If you're asking then I'd suggest you're not qualified to do the upgrade. It's something you could research and do or you could just find a tech in your area. Accidentally shorting a couple of fully charge power Caps can be dangerous the you and the amp.
IF you're seriously considering this why not contact Mark and ask him if he's offering any updates to your amp. He's a pretty knowledgeable guy.

https://www.dagogo.com/an-interview-with-mark-obrien-of-rogue-audio/

http://rogueaudio.com/FAQ.htm

Paul wrote: Would upgrading the capacitors require me sending the amp in or is that something I could do on my own?

I don’t know Paul. If you’re an electronics Tech and know your way around a sodering gun, built Heath Kits, and are in the Instrumentation Dept at work, I’d say ya. Other wise I’d look around for a VERT REPUTABLE Tech.

Good move on the tubes, I believe that Amp uses 1 12Au7, 2 12Ax7’s, and KT88, or KT120 power tubes. I also believe Tung-sol is the only company that makes Kt120’s, so that limits that, but I could be wrong.

There’s now a KT150, and I have to admit I don’t know if you can use them in your Rogue (check with Rogue), or if they’re grainy. But the KT150 "should" give your amp more slam, the caps more grace.

Regarding the isolation base, buy with the option to return if not pleased

@thehorn thanks for the post! 
Would upgrading the capacitors require me sending the amp in or is that something I could do on my own?

Regarding the tubes - I have already rolled the small tubes to a Brimer NOS and some Gold Lions. These replaced the stock JJs. I have not touched the larger power tubes. I’ve been told those don’t affect the sound as much as the small tubes, more specifically the preamp tube. Thoughts?
Thanks so much!
Paul

@paulgardner If you budget can afford it, mostly inconspicuous Synergistic Research HFT products can help your acoustics with minimal visibility.  I use them instead of large acoustic treatment panels on my front and rear walls.  I use just four around my 75" TV in a room with a lot of reverb (40' wide, 20' deep, 18' vaulted high).  The TV sound (with separate audio, speakers at the corners of the TV but open to hallways/rooms adjacent to the speakers-hence no baffling) concentrates so that within about 10' wide area from the speakers has greatly increased clarity-eliminates room echo.

Holly law a diminishing returns is right.

Paul you have an outstanding base to start with & moving up the later is going to cost you large, so you’ve hit the nail on the head there. Compound that with the audio disease, meaning what ever you do will eventually lead down the road of discontentment.

Best path IMHO from both a sonic and economic prospective would be to up grade the caps in your Rogue with either Mondorf’s Supreme Silver/Oil or V-caps (do your research), along with some new high quality tubes, . https://www.vhaudio.com/21capacitorshootout.pdf

Another possibly is a Vishay volume control. But that’s getting expensive

The other suggestion would be to purchase only high quality recordings.

As for cartridges .... now you’re racking up the bills. There’s a host of used MM that might tickle your fancy, but as for their condition it’s a bit of a shot in the dark. You already have a far better than average cartridge in the Hana SL, so your next move might be a Soundsmith Aida, or Voice, but now you’re doubling and tripling the price of your Hana. Is it worth it ????? Now we’re back to the law a diminishing returns.

Then of course there’s the listening room. If I may suggest, address that if you haven’t already.

@drewmb1 thats a good suggestion. I currently have a makeshift or rather homemade isolation table. It’s a combination of butcher block sandwiched with foam and some other stuff. Do you think the “proper” $500-$1000 iso tables are going to do a much better job? I don’t know because I’ve never tried, but I think what I have put together is pretty good. Could probably be better. Maybe that’s the disease talking tho! Ha!

Hello, all this talk about a new tonearm is very interesting.  I have a different suggestion.  I owned a VPI classic turntable for years.  One day the unipivot pushed me TOO far.  After futzing with the turntable for years I put it up for sale.  Three is one really good thing about a VPI, it's retail value.  Instead I purchased a Pro-Ject RPM 10 Carbon Turntable.  It's filled with a metal/resin particulate and sits on its own isolation table that is filled the same.  I was SHOCKED at the difference of isolation.  This metal/resin particulate allows vibration to drain out.  I can blast my record now with pure clean sound.
O.K.  here comes the recommendation....
An isolation table for your fine turntable to sit on.  At that point you will be amazed at how much better your system sounds.

@oregon some good advice. I’ll likely keep what I’ve got for now and wait until I need to replace my cartridge before doing anything crazy. Thanks for the idea and thought everyone. This forum is great!!!

I've just been trying out a relatively inexpensive upgrade to my vinyl set-up that has impressed me greatly. I suspect the biggest improvements are to be found with lower-end set-ups, but my experience, with a reasonably high-end vintage set-up, has been extremely positive.
It's an isolator of sorts, that fits between cartridge and headshell, made by the Funk Firm in the UK (formerly Pink Triangle), known as "Houdini".
It's resulted in a lot more depth, space and resolution to the music. What was a bit of a mellow-sounding cartridge seems to have more bite/attack and firmness in the bass, without any harshness.
The cost in the UK is £300, which many commentators on various forums have written off already, despite not trying it, purely on the basis that nothing this small and simple should cost this much money. The entire HiFi arena would be a very small place indeed if everyone believed this!
There are actual reviews starting to appear from sources with more knowledge and experience than I. Houdini will soon be available to the public (FYI: mine was supplied and fitted by Arthur Khoubessarian of the Funk Firm and I paid full price for it). I understand that they're offering a full money-back guarantee to buyers who try it and don't want to keep it.
j.

System:
PT Tarantella/Origin Live Silver/Ortofon Kontrapunkt B/Houdini
Audio Research SP9 mk3
Micromega Solo
Albarry M1008 Monoblocks
Pro-Ac EBT
(VdH/Kimber/Cardas cables, Woodblock/Red Rollers RF inhibitors)
(my primary turntable - PT Too (Anniversary Spec)/SME V/Koetsu Urushi currently out of action)

If I remember correctly (I’m too lazy to scroll to the top) I read the word “love” at least twice. You said, I love my system, I love the sound...something like that.  Very powerful words! Any old school audiophile will tell you that. We fell in love with our stereos and thrilled at the sound of music.  Then...we got bored*, or, had extra money and decided to change something. Years later and thousands of dollars later, we lost that loving feeling and chased the dragon.  You have a very good system. You love it. Continue to enjoy it as it is. IMHO, buy an IKEA shelf and hunt for records and enjoy the music. Do not start down the path of audionervosa.  *After years of working trauma (I’m a surgical RN) I come to realize that boredom can lead to some very bad decisions. 

1. Speakers 
2. table
3. cartridge 

Just a quick observation regarding fuses if you go down that route.  You don't need to change 4. Only the main fuse to get the most benefit.  I've replaced several of my components with them and its a very nice cheap tweak.  

Hah ! I love this forum. It took less than 48 hours for members to recommend thousands of dollars of upgrades, many of which would actually be side-grades, based on their personal tastes / preferences, not just answering your question. It's all good, but damn, it's a rabbit hole !

Paul, the Concept is a fine table. You will have to spend a lot more to get significantly better.

This is the best comment I've read, in my humble opinion.

You have a really nice system. I'd suggest small improvements like a good/better record cleaning system and then look at a better cartridge. These changes can potentially give you the biggest return on your investment.

Vinyl out sold CDs this year for the first time in history so the rabbit hole is growing ;~)

@miostyn that is great!
Yes that is WHY we need or the great benefit with being able to adjust VTA while you play the record! (On the fly) because as you say our audio memory is not that long..

For example this after market tone arm can do that party trick: :)
Stogi S 12 VTA
Or
https://www.analogplanet.com/content/kuzma-stogi-s-se-12-tonearm-vta-tower-serious-overachiever

Paul, the Concept is a fine table. You will have to spend a lot more to get significantly better. Yes, you have to make sure a tonearm fits before you buy it. The spec you need to look at is the spindle to pivot distance. If the spindle to pivot distance of the Zephyr lands anywhere near the center of your tonearm board you are in business. Ideally, you would get a new arm board from Clearaudio and drill it to spec for the Zephyr, plop it in and you are in business. 
I would much rather have a better arm and cartridge in a lesser turntable than the other way around. The next significant step up in a turntable would be to an isolated unit Like the Sota Sapphire IV and it is $3600. 
For less than that you can have the Zephyr and a Lyra Delos. That would for certain put you in hog heaven:)

paulgardner-

If that were my system, I would look at some nice floorstanders, if you get an itch for a different presentation. If itch still persists, go up the food chain in tube amps-separates or  nicer integrated.

After that, knock it out of the park with a $5K+ table & $2K+ cart. Don't forget the US RCM.

Three things Optimize. 1st is I adjust SRA with the platter turning so it is a true 92 degrees. 2nd is every record is a little different by perhaps give or take 10 minutes. So, if you adjust it by whatever method to one record you will be off on many of them. Third is your ear is nowhere near sensitive enough to pick up 10 minutes of error. You can not even hear 20 minutes.   https://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/vta_e.html  92 degrees is all you need. Just make the oncoming face of the stylus 90 degrees to the record surface and you are in business. 

Other than room, it depends on what you want. If you want accurate, uncolored, very detailed sound, a Rega P8 or P10 would be a great option, more for the arms they provide. Cool dustcover that doesn't present any problems. Cartridge that goes for the same accuracy -  Van den hul One Special. (assuming your phono stage goes to 100-200 ohms). It's higher output MC - about .75.

Since vinyl is what you are looking for, the source is key. You can never get better sound than what comes out of the preamp. 

mijostyn. It is good that you like your setup regime of SRA. There is always room for improvements.

For me is that a suboptimal procedure and explains why you do not put that much care in my opinion to it that it may deserve.

Don't get me wrong I also have a USB microscope laying around. The SRA regime you use I call it for the Michael Fremer method.

I am more in the Peter Ledermann camp of method. There we adjust the SRA during when the record is playing. There is a difference between when like Michael F put down the stylus at stand still in stasis.
If you adjust to 92° at stand still and then when you are done, play a record that will put friction and grove modulation on the stylus then you will no longer have 92°.

The dynamic adjustment that Peter L is using is then to do the final fine adjustments by ear.
Now there will a micrometer precision instrument come handy when adjusting the tone arm height on the fly, while you play the record. There is information online on what to listen after and what albums and track to use.

During my years of study how the best do their setups I have learned that there is usually several ways how to go about for adjusting each setting/parameter on a TT.  
 
So that is why I believe that making sure that the stylus is in the groove with all the parameters as close to ideal is more important for sound quality then what tone arm it is. If the angles between the stylus and grove is little bit more "off". The tone arm cannot compensate for that.

And yes the ideal SRA is changing with different records but the ball is on the playing field and not somewhere in the arena. And on the other hand that is then easily adjusted if we want/needed.

@tablejockey 👍 totally agree. I think my best bet at this point is to look into finding a cartridge that’s more compliant with my tonearm. Not sure how long the Hana SL will last. Will I hear an audible difference and know?  I’ve had It for about a year and listen on average an hour a day. So I have 300-400 hours of wear on it now. Still sounds amazing!

You're in the dreaded "it's good, but what's better?" zone.

Endless advice from A-Z. Consider just  playing  clean records and open a beer.
Replace your cartridge when it wears with something different.

When you hear a REALLY good system, you realize just about everything needs to be upgraded.

@mijostyn thanks for the thoughts. I am not super technically versed in some of what you said but regarding your comment on upgrading the tonearm to the Zephyr, how do I know it will be compatible with the Concept table? Is this something I can install myself? The Zephyr is roughly the same price as the entire Concept table. Should I be looking at selling the concept table and applying that to an upgraded TT alltogether? 
@jjss49 yeah I know the B&Ws are a bit on the bright side. It really does depend on the recording in regard to how often/troublesome the highs get. 

paul, as others have said, you have great gear already

your room is probably what is holding back the sound the most, but you have stated your reticence to treat/alter

given this, you would need to speak precisely and specifically about what you would like to improve about the sound as it stands now, to get any useful ideas on what to change in terms of the hardware

you mentioned occasional brightness, but how occasional, and how troublesome?  b&w's will give you that sometimes, no doubt

optimize, the vast majority of us set the SRA to the requisite 92 degrees and forget about it. Many of the very best tonearms do not have adjustable VTA on the fly and IMHO are better for it. Why do I want to spend money on something I would never use. The only arms I would make an exception for, because they are so good are the 4 points and the Triplanar. My personal favorites do not have it. Regardless of the arm I buy I'm going to get out my trust USB microscope, special protractor and set the SRA to exactly 92 degrees. If the groove is off 30 minutes one way or the other it is not going to matter. 

If you are in the mood for an experiment, then try to replace your Clearaudio TT with a vintage direct drive like Kenwood KD990 (or similar) or Technics SP 10 or 12 with a tonearm that matches the wonderful Hana SL. 

Compare the sound of your system to head phones. Good headphones are pretty flat. Except for the presentation your system should have the same tonal balance as the headphones. I think (not sure) that this may be the reason many love their headphones. They sound more right than their systems even though the band is in the middle of their head. I suppose then the mark of a good system is that it sounds like the headphones except the band is in front of you where it belongs.

Regarding tonearm.
If/when try to get one there you can get added functionality. Otherwise you get just the same and probably only little better in some regards.

One added functionality that will generate better sound quality is if you can get one with the ability to adjust the VTA (SRA) on the fly  during playback. Yes we can always do it manually back and forth with a less of a success. So do a tone arm swap that counts.

Another alternate is to get a tone arm that you could in the future could add maybe a "Easy VTA" to it at a later time.

 Anyway good luck with your upgrades. :)

I guess I am on optimize's side in this with a few caveats. Room control will correct frequency and time issues better than any other method by a long shot. But, it will not change the way a room sounds. It is not eliminating reflections or preventing echo. It's time correction is purely between drivers and subs. If you have a reasonable room and sub woofers set up correctly room control is all you need. Unfortunately, this is usually not the case. In the bass if the nodes in the room vary widely the power required to correct them will clip amps and bottom out woofers. With two subs if you put them right up against the wall or in corners symmetrically placed around the satellites you can minimize this. With one sub you can forget it. 
Most people do not understand that room control is done at very high resolution with high bit density. In my unit it is 48/192. Resolution this high is invisible, vinyl sounds just as vinyl always sounds except better.
I am working on pictures of my system including shots of the computer screen with measurements and corrections for the virtual systems page. I am having a hard time capturing the screen without haze so, if anyone more skilled in photography has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.

Paul, if you go for a new tonearm I might suggest in order of expense the Origin Live Zephyr, Kuzma's 4 point 9 and finally Schroder's CB. Before you buy any tonearm please check the spindle to pivot distance and make sure the pivot will land squarely on your tonearm board which is not very large. Again, in terms of bang for the buck just changing the cartridge to one that is more compliant than the Hana will make the largest improvement in sound quality and eliminate some of your woofer pumping. I always assume people are using a full 2 way crossover for the subs. If not, getting a proper 2 way crossover will stop woofer pumping dead and drop distortion in your satellites by an order of magnitude. It will also allow you to raise the crossover point and make seamless integration easier. 

Back to room control, if you think the frequency response of your system is reasonably flat you are sorely mistaken. Unless you have room control This is a generalization I am more than happy to stick to. If you get a calibrated mic and impulse testing program,  https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-omnimic-v2-acoustic-measurement-system--390-792 ,you will see aberrations over +- 10 dB. Your fequency response curve will look like the rocky mountains. I have ESLs and I will show you all their response curve once I get the photography down.  

@paulgardner
NP thanks for the clarification. Then we know that you have reached your maximum of treatment as I said before. ;)

Then it is time to measure and identify issues and solve them with a little DSP in the signal path between preamplifier and power amp/s. With that solution you do not need to put any sound treatment anywhere.
Benefits:

• Better integration between sub/s and speakers by:
• > by be able to compensate distance/time difference between sub/s speakers.
• > by be able to use Lindquist steeper x-over filter that he also advocate for.
• Adjust the unlinear frequency response of your speakers (all speakers has that more or less) or maybe there is a dip that you like.
• Adjust for unlinear frequency response how your room interact with your speakers.
• Being able to adjust for "Equal-loudness contour" (Fletcher-Munson curves or international standard ISO 226:2003)
• Being able to adjust for your own preferred sound preference.

Probably something that i have forgot..

Regarding the integration between sub and speakers.. I am able to turn off my bookshelf speakers. And only listening to the subwoofer. I got very surprised when I could hear faint in the background when the subwoofer were playing the sound of the singer and other instruments that is higher in the frequency range..
And the cut of frequency were at the lowest setting at 40 hz!
I should not be able to hear a singer at all. I suppose the implementation of the knob on my subwoofer were using a shallow x-over slope perhaps max 6 dB/octave.
But with the DSP doing its job and I use 48 dB/octave at 53 Hz. Now the problem is solved with that the subwoofer will only amplifie and play those frequencies it should and nothing else.

As in a previous response, buy records from 50' & 60's and some from early 70's... also grab the record Dr record cleaner machine...it works great if u don't mind spinning the record manually. Buy a good cleaning fluid to go with it, non alcohol. The audio intelligent #6 is a good product. I would not change out either the turntable or the hana cartridge, I think you have done great there. The hana are terrific cartridges for the money, I run the hana el and I love it. I'd go with maybe a nice power conditioner along with at least a high current power cable for the amplifier, maybe try the audioquest thunder and the audioquest Niagars conditioner. Also maybe try a few different interconnects from chord, Atlas, Qed, ecosse....yes I'm partial to UK interconnects lol. 

+1 Lyra cartridge upgrade.

I couldn't be happier with my new
Lyra Kleos. 

@optimize@dannad
The room is 18’ x 30’ with a high vaulted 18’ ceiling. I do not have any room treatment. This is a tricky area for me. Interior aesthetics are important to me. This is both a living area as well as a listening room. I truly hate the idea of hanging RT panels on the wall. I might be able to live with some corner bass traps but my original goal was to build a system that sounds great without making my home look like a recording studio. I understand this poses huge limitations but that’s the deal. I do have my speakers out and away from the back wall. I have played around with speaker/subs placement as well. Thank you all for the great thoughts/ideas, keep them coming if you want but again, I’m not hanging RT panels from my ceiling.

Many things can be done for upgraded sound . You haven't mentioned acoustics . If you have not fooled around and invested into a better sounding room then thats where you should start . Carpets , drapes , tube traps , whatever needed . It could make a much bigger differences then any piece of equipment or tweek . 

You have an integrated . Many sound very good but a Good pre power combination will in my estimation sound better . Unless you have something like a Plinius , Mark Levinson or Pass integrated separate units will sound better , although not all , you still have to be careful buying . Your Rogue Audio for the price is very good but even Rogue have their separates . 

You can upgrade your cartridge but in order to be able to extract best performance a better tonearm might be necessary . You have a very good turntable . Experiment with mats .

Your phono stage seems to be excellent . To finish , cables . I use and will always recommend JPS Labs superconductors . They are excellent and sound great with tubes or Solid State , be it speaker cables , intercomnects or power cable . Their Aluminata series are superlative.
 Hope this helps 
 God Bless and stay safe .

Great we are at the same page. :)

My journey in my dedicated symmetrical 2ch listening room. I got some treatment but far from enough. Even then I had that peek in that room at 73 dB still after many, many different listening positions and speaker placements. 

What I could do is to sound treat and target that 73 hz with Helmholtz or membrane absorbers that need to be tuned to 73 hz..

As we know a DSP will easily take down a peek. 

So best bang (sound quality) for the buck.
The Helmholtz or membrane vs DSP:
DSP will "treat" all frequencies not just one.
DSP will be cheaper
DSP will hit that target issue with greater precision.
DSP can give me 6/12/24/48 dB x-over between my sub and bookshelf speakers.
DSP can compensate for our physical hearing capability (Equal-loudness contour) + "house curves"
And so on..

So it were a no brainier for me to go with the DSP.

And I can now enjoy my HiFi even more with better sound quality despite that I have "degraded" the analog signal with a AD and DA conversion. :)

My question is - what should I consider upgrading next? Should I ditch the integrated amp considering I’m using an external phono stage? Or should I go with a better integrated amp? Or should I look at a better cartridge? Do I upgrade my turntable or just the tonearm? Do I upgrade the power cable on my amp?
Here’s what I’m currently working with - and thanks for your thoughts/suggestions!

He asked for thoughts/suggestions..

Yes you are right. He only rambling on about components and gear.. And I felt that he is missing the greatest one of them all as I wrote. Just trying to help regarding what is the lowest hanging fruit to achieve better sound quality. 

Room?

Yes exactly what I mean.
The biggest "component" in your system. ;)

You can get to a great RT 60 without DSP, go there first :-)

What to upgrade is the question.

The upgrade Itch.. 
I am thinking like this.. You have a stereo setup in a room. Changing/upgrading a component here or there gives you maybe a better sound or different. Give or take some % in improved sound quality. 

Your room is a component that is not coincided that much and now we are talking about much bigger improvements to gain. Some say 30% to 50% of the system sound quality is from the component "room"..

So if you  are seriously searching for better sound quality start with the bigest component the room.

Every dedicated listening room that I have measured has issues. Period. And nobody can as a measuring system say "Oh I hear a peek at 73 hz of 27 dB" yes nobody knows that before but with measuring we know. (Measuring is knowing)

So do not go into that rabbit hole that is a lifelong swapping out component X and Y and repeat. Into the same and lousy sounding room. (Remember you do not know how bad it is when you haven't measured it)

When you measure and fix your room THEN it is the first time you truly hear your gear and get full return of your investment!

So what to buy? Then I suggest a calibrated measurement microphone less than 100$ and install free software REW. Invest time to learn how to measure and how and what room treatment does and so on. Learn where your listening space issues are. And deal with them.

This is the hard way to go, to force you to learn new things. It is SO much easier to swap a cord or place some vibration damper here or there. And most of us do that our whole life because we are lacy. But we will also never fully be able to hear our components full capability.

(As a side note when we have done what we think is a appropriate level of room treatment then it is time to look at DSP/Dirac and those type of "room corrections". 
I love my vinyl system but analog purists do not know what they talk about. They have a obsession that it should be 100% analog all the way. I have done exactly that journey.
We have so much more to gain in % of sound quality than the small loss of sound quality we get from converting to digital and do sound processing and then convert back to analog! 
Just that type of thinking is holding many audiophiles back from hearing better sound quality from their all analog setups! Again we are lacy and have come up with a false logical conclusion "all analog regime" and then we do not need to learn new stuff like room acoustics..)

Side 2 I believe in You is obnoxiously bright and forward. I hate to say this as there are lots of super songs on this disc.... but this might not be a touchstone reference disc ( certainly in its entirety) I hate saying that. Harvest is so much more balanced imo.