Search for "Power Cable" on Audiogon and Found 54,758 results. Do we really need another thread on this subject? I think not. IMHO
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Like what @ghdprentice stated, to answer your question, the Dragon is the best power cord for your whatever you got. |
@bigtwin For someone with a Niagara 1200 yes it would be ridiculous, IMO, and obviously beyond the budget. My comment was tongue-in-cheek, but in line with your first post- there are plenty of power cord threads to read. To answer the second question, will it make a difference with a dragon? I think absolutely. Will it make a difference if he gets a $100 power cord? Maybe not.
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@mclinnguy For me, this just seems to be putting the cart before the horse. Since the idea of the Power Conditioner is to "Condition" the electricity feeding your components, and in some cases radically converting the electrical supply as is the case with something like a regeneration unit, it would seem to me that any decent heavy AWG cable, that is transferring current from a wall outlet, may 3 - 6 feet to your power conditioner, would be more than adequate. I could see the use of the really good cable on the other side of the conditioner but not before it. IMHO |
It would be an interesting experiment, wouldn't it? Have a mid/low level system, 10K total between conditioner, amp, DAC, and speakers assuming DAC has digital out. All stock power cords but decent IC's and speaker cable. Then introduce a broken in Dragon before conditioner, then from conditioner to amp, then from conditioner to DAC and see which makes the most difference/improvement to a group of people. If I had a hifi store I would do it! And put it on Youtube! |
@10024skip Another serious consideration should be a DYI cable. IMHO. Here are two fine choices that would cost you well $500 - $1000 depending on the connectors. https://www.vhaudio.com/furutech-dps-4.html https://www.vhaudio.com/neotech-nep-3200.html https://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-ac.html It can be very satisfying to build something for your system. |
AQ Z3 to my 1200, the thunder from 1200 to amp. Imo there will be a more audible difference done this way, rather than the opposite. The thunder, being high current capable, is plugged into one of the 2 high current receptacles available on the 1200. This also follows suit with the logic/belief that the last few feet of the electricity run makes the most difference. |
I will say AQ Dragon and reason it with it being the best power cord AQ makes and the OP had provided no budget restrictions. If we’re talking real world for Niagra 1200, the Hurricane or even the Tornado would do. Keep in mind, the power cord delivering juice to your power conditioner has to be at least on par with the power cords plugged into that power conditioner to realize full potential of that setup. |
Power cables are not power conditioners, a good AC power cord would act like no cable at all. Do you need special cables if you have perfect AC power, of course I'm not talking about in adequate AC cables but decent quality cables perhaps a 500$ AC cable vs a 5k$ AC cable plugging into perfect power? I can't see that it is helpful. |
@10024skip "will it make a difference?” technically “no” |
@10024skip, I use an AudioQuest Thunder power cable with my AQ Niagara 1200 power conditioner, and they work exceptionally well together for my dedicated headphone system. At the time I purchased them they were about the same price from my audio gear dealer. Having been bitten by the clean power bug, I also demoed an AQ Hurricane, and just for kicks an AQ Dragon power cable in my home. I really didn’t notice any difference in SQ when using the Hurricane or the Dragon, even though my mind absolutely wanted to. In my opinion the higher cost AQ Storm cables would have more benefit if one was using an AQ Niagara 3000 or 5000 to power their hi-fi system. |
I can add my own experience. I picked up a Niagara 1200 to use with my TV and KEF LS50 Wireless II's. I used stock PC's for the KEF and 1200. I later moved I moved an extra Hurricane source cable from my main system over to the TV system. I put the Hurricane source between the wall and 1200. I feel like adding the Hurricane made as much of a difference to the system as adding the 1200 did. |
Zavfino Majestic MK II OCC, occ copper, cryo treated, high voltage break in.....$450. If you don't like it, send it back with 15% restocking fee. The next step up Prima MK II OCC is $580, but takes forever to break in. Ice Age Audio OFC "Frankencable", 99.9999 OFC copper, 11 awg, cryo treated, free shipping, free returns if you are not happy. I have not tried one yet, but the reviews are excellent.....I have one on order right now |
I spoke at length with Garth P. (the designer of the Niagara line) about this same issue before purchasing my own Niagra 5000. Although he wasn't trying to simply push his company's products (Garth is NOT that guy), he was clear about designing the Niagara and the AQ power cables to be complementary. He intended the Niagara to be more than a power conditioner, more like the main component in an integrated ground-noise management system and a current reservoir. For this reason, he strongly recommended combining Niagaras with Audioquest power cables that he designed, both on components plugged into the Niagara and for the Niagara itself. Supposedly, working together, they form a topology that shunts AC noise to ground for all components connected to what is essentially an AC-power network. So I spent a few grand on mid-level AQ cables when I purchased my Niagara. Disclaimer: I had no chance to A-B the AQ upgrade with other power-conditioning alternatives. And b/c I had to upgrade cables and Niagara at the same time, I couldn't audition them independently. But at the risk of repeating a cliche, what I heard was so dramatic, even before any break-in, that I immediately lost interest in A-Bing. Sue me, but if you were there, I bet you would have agreed. I'd consider this upgrade to be one of the top three most dramatic improvements in my system -- ever. There was an enormous expansion of soundstage with images spreading across the room in what seemed to be a more authentic d; imaging became more "physical", with images taking on a distinct size in space, surrounded by palpable air; complex arrangements (think ELP's "Closer to Believing") sorted themselves out so that for the first time I was able to easily hear that a background "buzz" on a familiar recording was actually a buried-in-the-mix chorus, not a string section; and, of course, tiny details like ambience/recording-location acoustics ("you are there" v. "they are here") & cymbal fade-outs became much clearer without sounding "etched"; etc. Pretty much what you'd expect by eliminating low-amplitude noise and distortion. Surprisingly, I didn't expressly hear a blacker background. But then again, I was so gobsmacked by the more obvious improvements that I didn't even listen for it. I think Garth's design goals were to reduce what sounded a lot like what we used to call TIM or SID related to interactions between high-frequency/low-amplitude line noise and tiny details in a source signal. What I heard supported that hypothesis. FWIW, at the time I was listening to Harbeths with Silver Apex cabling, and mid-level audiophile components, like Ortofon 2M Black cartridge on a George-Merrill bespoke turntable, Oppo BD-105, Class D Elac Alchemy amps -- nothing fancy. Nonetheless, the all-AQ upgrade was pretty dramatic, almost "shocking," even on this gear. I think we all know about cables. Upgrading can be a crap shoot, since the interaction between a particular cable and a particular piece of electronics is complex & often unpredictable. So although there are plenty of great power cables out there, it made sense to combine this expensive power conditioner with cabling designed specifically to be used with it. YMMV and I'm just reporting on my thought process at the time, what trusted sources told me, and what I heard. But today my significantly upgraded system is loaded with five-figure components and I still have no beefs with the AQ power components I bought pre-pandemic.. If you, like me, have no opportunity to compare multiple cables on your Niagara, at least consider the educated, but KISS, solution that worked so well for me, and that was recommended by a brilliant engineer with deeper experience with your conditioner than everyone on this thread (including me) put together.
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Postscript: Some posters here recommend a Niagara 3000 or 5000 over the 1200. I have to +1. Garth specifically mentioned that the higher-end Niagaras are not just "bigger." They boast more sophisticated functionality and, unfortunately after writing so many words on the topic above, I’m thinking now that the 1200 may not have that ground-noise shorting circuitry that is a core benefit of the more expensive models. I don't want to spout incorrect tech information here, so this may be worth confirming online. Also, one reason why power conditioning may have made such a huge difference in my system is that my house is completely solar powered. Rooftop PV inverters are ridiculously noisy, so my unfiltered AC was probably more compromised than most and the improvement I heard may have been more dramatic than most. Still, I have no problem justifying the cost of the 5000 upgrade. E.g., pre-Niagara, an old $150 phonostage didn’t sound too different than a $750 upgrade. But post-Niagara, it was easy to hear the difference.
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@10024skip 24skip
Try this at PS Audio Marketplace. Because the Niagara cleans the electricity, this is a good option to get maximum power to the conditioner without spending too much. It is a Pangea cord.
You may have to register for the marketplace at PS Audio. |
The specs on the Niagara 1200 show max power input is 15 Amps. This can be handled by regular 14 AWG wiring. Putting a firehose sized cable between the outlet and the N-1200 will not provide any additional current to the device. It simply doesn't draw more than 15 amps. The N-1200 appears to be the only Niagara conditioner without Transient Power Correction, a stored reservoir of current to handle momentary spikes. However, the majority of amps draw a small amount of power when running. 1 - 3 amps is pretty common. The chances of needing more than the 15 amp supply going into the N-1200 is remote. The bottom line is this. If the N-1200 does what it claims, then any reasonably built cable, 14 or 12 AWG, is going to do the job. If you have a burning desire to spend $$$$$, buy a much better power conditioner. IMHO |
@speedthrills +1 LOL |