Got the Solupeak 2 in 2 out. Solid unit with good toggles. Sounds great so far!
Amplifier and Speaker A/B switcher
I'm looking for a well made switcher that has the ability to switch between two amps (rca cables) and two speaker pairs (using banana plugs). I am only seeing devices made in China and they don't appear to be of very good quality. Can anyone suggest a high quality device safe for my equipment and not to degrade audio quality? Thanks.
Decided to give this one a try first: https://www.amazon.com/SOLUPEAK-P3-Amplifier-Speakers-Selector/dp/B0BGHMGY7J?th=1
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The Niles SPK-1 is speaker level only AB amp or AB Speaker switch. Voltage activated. Niles SPK-1, Speaker Level A/B Switcher SPK1, 12V switched VG Condition! | eBay | ||
@retroactiv Here’s the link. Good luck with it all! | ||
@tksteingraber thanks, can you link the one you have? | ||
@retroactiv On a leap of faith I bought a Chinese made one from Aliexpress ($70) which is similar to your ebay suggestion. Mine has a 2 to 1 switch. It was offered with a higher quality model with a silver alloy relay, silver plated wiring, nice metal case and toggle switch and full sized gold plated copper speaker terminals. I bought it originally to compare amps on a single set of speakers. Didn’t notice sound degradation (using all the same speaker cables) so I now use it on my home theatre system so i can use a tube amp for 2 channel listening on the same main speakers as the HT system. Works great meets my needs. Find one you can try out that is returnable would be my suggestion. | ||
I'm using a very obsolete Niles CPM -31 6x6 matrix to route sources to equalizers to pre or direct to amp in... however, it's very not ss and used carefully.... Can loop in/out a JVC JX-S777 video selector for that sort of activity, since the pre can deal with the a+v functions if the mood strikes... Note; None of this 'switchery' is done under the influence of Anything. If I was to go at it again, with the budget to do so....? I'd chat up Maple Tree about their SCC-1 at minimum and don't cringe at the cost. Save that for a custom quote for the one of your dreams... Once considered diy'ng a matrix to replace the Niles; keeping the grounds isolated as well as the signal line just during layout would make you pause. I've looked into full digital versions, shelved until I win a Lotto... And a large one at that... @panzrwagn is paying attention to level matches, which would be a boon. Sudden loud can strike unintentional fear....as will *nothing*.... | ||
Of the switches mentioned, the Van Alstine is the only one supporting level matching. Without level matching there simply is no way a comparison can be valid. As for colorations, any the switch might potentially introduce would be the same across the board, so effectively cancelled out when used for comparison purposes. FWIW I used the Advent Speaker Comparator switch during my career, and installed the Audio Authority component switching system in the Definitive Audio showrooms in Seattle. Both of these were level matching devices, and extensie time was spent ensuring that the level match (set with pink noise and a sound level meter) was as close as possible. In both cases what was revealed was far greater than anything potentially lost, especially with speakers and speaker/amp pairing. | ||
You can try Mapletree audio design, the SCC1 is what you need, I had one custom made by Al Freundorfer a few years back and it works perfectly. Welcome to Mapletree Audio Design | ||
Check out the Niles SAS-1, it's obsoleted but can still be found regularly on eBay.
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I used one of those cheap switch boxes off Amazon and it worked fine. I had a hafler xl280 and a Jolida brc 1000 tube amp hooked up to my acoustat 2+2’s. if I was going to listen for just 20 min, I’d go sand amp, 30 or longer- tubes! The problem is they accept very thin wire ( 16g? I don’t remember). I had to connect thin wire to my 10g wire. With that short a run ( few inches) and minor effect of switch, I detected no degradation in sound. I think I have a Niles unit. | ||
Follow up. Paul McGowen does not know of a solid state speaker selector switching module. I looked into them on ebay. Including the TC-7220 2-Way Amp Amplifier Speaker Selector Switch Switcher Splitter Combiner. Several things bothered me, -Their Switches. If there is going to be sound degrading it would be right there. Even on a 15amp toggle the contact surfaces are like millimeter. -They tie the black negative leads together! Switch the red positives. Some solid state amplifiers use differential output drivers. Their black negatives are NOT common or ground to anything but their red +. They only like their + side. -Internal wiring. Far from "audiophile". Another choke on quality. But an easy mod. I could not see inside the TC-7220 to see if they keep the negative leads separate. I also suspect their switch too. Probably will work with the tube amp. I don't know about the Schiit. What to do? Spend the bucks. Buy what has mostly you need and modify. Or build thy own from scratch. | ||
Will checkout Decware too thanks @glennewdick ! | ||
Thanks @8th-note ! I contacted them for a quote. I hope they are not too expensive. | ||
Maple Tree Audio makes custom built router switches. They call these Engineered to Order (ETO) Routers. I have one that does 4 in, 1 out (RCA) and it's nice looking and well built. You tell them what you want and they get back to you with a quote. You can even choose the type of wood for the side panels. Great company to deal with and made in America. | ||
I use this.. it works for me and if I’m A/B some speakers or an amplifier it does the job. Would I leave it in line forever? Nope but I can use it to hear what I need to hear. SOLUPEAK P3 2-Way AMP Amplifier... http://SOLUPEAK P3 2-Way AMP Amplifier... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGHMGY7J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share | ||
Exactly. There are many nice integrateds that have A/B switches. I’ve always felt that’s the best way to assess speaker SQ. At least for me, my “SQ” memory is very short. The time it takes to swap cables would be too long. Assuming both sets of speakers are able to be optimized for location and position, a remote control AB switch would provide instant comparison. | ||
to compare speakers from one amp, or switch which speakers are playing: I used an older version of this Niles unit, individual volume control for each set of speakers https://www.crutchfield.com/p_190SSVC4/Niles-SSVC-4.html
smaller 2 speaker set unit https://www.crutchfield.com/p_190SSVC2/Niles-SSVC-2.html
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I had a pair of such speaker switches, hand made with high quality connectors if you want to buy it from me. I have solved my problem now. One main disadvantage is that you need 6 high quality terminals on each - that is 12 high quality terninals plus quality connections and switch plus high quality labour. You need a budget to get what you want | ||
I used to demo 3 amps: Fisher 30 wpc Tube Mono Blocks 80az; Fisher 35 wpc 500C stereo tube receiver; McIntosh 250 wpc SS MC 2250 stereo amp. Start with some hooks behind each speaker at 'reachable height' Cable from each speaker with female banana long enough to hang on a hook behind each speaker. 3 sets of speaker wires (1 set/amp). I wrapped each set of speaker wires with different color electrical tape at each end to know which amp. With male banana plugs that have tightening pins (also hanging from 'reachable hooks'. They insert loose, then tighten the pin. Tightening because frequent in/out not good for regular banana plugs
Lastly, you need to make A,B,C pencil marks on your volume control so they are 'matched' volume when comparing. Same thing comparing cartridges, pencil marks to match volume. | ||
"swapping the speaker cables by hand" That's the way most of us do it. What about turning the amps around so the speaker connection are facing outward? How often do will you be doing this? If I had to do it again, I.would still go with a box, a bunch of dual banana jacks and a pair of dual banana jumper cables. I don't think there is a switch that is as neutral transparent as a banana plug or screw down connection. High current solid state switch? Works for line level switching. I'll throw this one at McGowen.
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Depending on the concerning ear, everything you put into the signal path will degrade the sound. Years ago, I needed to do what you want. But I needed to be able to switch 4 turntables, 6 amps/receivers, 2 aux and 12 pairs of speakers. Plus, spares of each. I had a hard time finding the switches i needed. And wiring them together would be a rats nest pain. That's why you pay the big bucks. So, I made a Patch Board. Pamona banana jacks for power outs and speakers. RCAs for turntable, aux, pre out and amp in. Using patch cords I could switch. ab, mix every which way. Was not a quick turn or push of a switch but did the job. And all the connections were right in front of me. | ||
What is your equipment? There is a place to show photos and ID you equipment under virtual systems. This will help a lot in answering your question.
It depends on your equipment. The better it is, the less likely there is such a thing. I have tried a couple of very high quality (one was Rotel ((?)) ), (very heavy duty mechanical switchers and the degraded the quality significantly. |