Who Gets Left Out?

Assuming that this doesn't turn into a "to condition or not to condition" debate/discussion,

I would think that the preamp should get plugged into the power conditioner.

As far as the amps, there seems to be a variance of opinion as to whether a power conditioner actually helps or degrades versus to plugging them straight into the wall.  I guess I'd say experiment with them.  Probably the same with the sub.

I would think that the DAC should get the power conditioner treatment,

but I was also thinking I remember reading posts (on this site) to the effect that digital could introduce noise into a circuit, and if there was a case to be made for isolating a component (with a dedicated circuit, for example) it would be the digital stuff.  I started to do a google on that puritan, but I got bogged down. Does it have outlets that are desigbated as being isolated for digital?  

The subwoofer.   

Sub for sure 

sub

edit: It might be the amps. A/B the amps plugged into the power conditioner and the wall. May sound better plugged into the wall.

I must be doing something wrong, I have 15 components plugged into two Black Lion Audio power conditioners. But I agree about the subs, both of mine are not connected to either.

With my Shunyata Hydra 4's it has always been Dac, Pre, and Subs.

Da sub.

Amps into the wall.

Subs and amps into wall, and I've tried conditioners from PS Audio, Audience, Shunyata, Audioquest, and my present BPT 3.5 Sig (modded), all impact transients to some degree.  Now, I will say the Furutech Flux-50 NCF  I run on 845SET amp is the one conditioner that I don't hear this transient softening. I  run subs and amps, both monoblocks and stereo on a dedicated line, 10guage, 20amp breaker

Sub

I agree with the sub consensus, thanks everyone.  Plugging into the power conditioner does have another advantage associated with the surge protection, but can someone explain to me why plugging the amps directly into the wall is better than getting clean power from the conditioner.  I would think amps with transformers would benefit from conditioned power.  My LTA amps don't have transformers and may not benefit as much, but the surge protections is important.  Thanks

Just get a simple outlet extender a passive one and plug i. Throwing quality devices into it node and sub

Dave  and Troy

Audio intellect  nj

but can someone explain to me why plugging the amps directly into the wall is better than getting clean power from the conditioner.

I’ve read both sides of the argument. The argument against plugging amps into a power conditioner seems to be that the amplifiers are pulling a lot of current and the power conditioner is a choke point.

Back in the ’90s I talked to the tech guy at Cary Audio Design about plugging the Cary amp I had at the time into a power conditioner and he didn’t tell me not to do it, but he didn’t sound like he was crazy about the idea. I have tried it both ways and I, personally, don’t remember ever hearing a significant (if any) difference. As it is, I have my present amp plugged into the wall, my sub plugged into the wall of another circuit, and my pre and my SACDp plugged into a power conditioner that is plugged into the wall of the same circuit the amps are plugged into. And I really only have the pre and the CDP plugged into the power conditioner because I have decided I only want to use one dedicated circuit, instead of 2 or 3 dedicated circuits, for my audio equipment, and the power conditioner gives me more outlets. (Except for my sub which is on an altogether different circuit.)

What I am not sure I understand is: with the priority subs seem to play in everyone’s systems these days (good clean bass and all) why everyone relegates them to unconditioned power.

Also, will your power conditioner be plugged into a dedicated circuit? From what I have read on this site, a dedicated circuit might be more important than a power conditioner.

If you have another outlet on the line pick up a Furman PST-8 for the sub, and you can always experiment by trying other components with the Furman (for kicks).

I have 2 of the PST-8’s and they seem to be sonically OK as far as I can tell plus the surge protection WORKS (I live in LA/West Hollywood) and we experience gobs of electrical events here.

Per "Erick" (sp?) the expert who’s currently taking a vacation from A’Gon the Furman PST-8 is the lowest you want to go in their line for competent surge protection along with what I feel is good conditioning/SQ.

For a sub it’s a no-brainer, IMO, as it will do the job for around $200.

My big APC for the computer conked out a while back and I’ve got the computer plugged into the PST-8 now along with the mini system we use @ the computer (no noticeable drop in SQ).

I have 2 separate conditioners in the living room system (one for digital and one for analog), but this was done years ago prior to the power transformer feeding our building being replaced/updated, so perhaps doing so is not a big deal now (too lazy to check/experiment).

It’s not clear (to me) what Audiotroy is suggesting, but if it’s just a dual/splitter outlet then that could be done for a few bucks.

DeKay

The Entire System.....and while you're at that, the house as well....

Have the new power panel focus All of the amps and whatts to the audio den of aud-iniquity, replacing all that backward dalliance devices with The Truth.

Power systems that deliver near demonic Power.....

"Clarity.  Bigger than Fright..."

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...sign nothing with your own blood...

troutstreamnm

I do not own a sub, but I would not plug it into a power conditioner.

I run all of my "low amperage" components into my power conditioner: preamp, CD transport, DDC (digital to digital converter), DAC, streamer. I do not run my various amps through my conditioner, as I have found I prefer the sound when they are plugged directly into the wall outlets.

That said, I did find three things that helped greatly:

(1) Having 2 dedicated lines pulled, one for the conditioner and one for amps

(2) Using audiophile receptacles, I can highly recommend: Furutech GTX-D $170 (gold plated) or GTX-D $205 (rhodium plated), Oyaide R1 $180, and am testing the Acme Audio Labs Silver $55 with good results for an affordable option

(3) Using higher quality power cables, but I've found no need to go to ridiculous expense. Excellent options are: AntiCables Level 3 $330, Zavfino Fina OCC $345 (signal components) or Zavfino Majestic MKII OCC (power amps) $450, and DHLabs Power Plus OFCC Cryo $20.....are all great affordable options.