What's the weakest link in my stereo set up? I live in a townhome, so limited on space.

A damn shame, that....but, given the era and where Frank grew up in SoCA, understandable....as a '69 HS grad, got swept up in 'all dat'... ;) 

...an Escher-ist checkered past......

@vrikkian I have been following this thread for the week and am kind of surprised that a near field set up has not been suggested. There is a lot of info out there and Cardas has been documented having some set up perimeters, which more or less take the room out of the equation. Enjoy the music

I am not a Cambridge Audio fan. But if you wanted buy new /used speakers

https://speakerchoices.com/

And +1 for a cartridge upgrade

@travelinjack it's funny you mention the SVS 3000 Micro because I am thinking about getting it! It has good reviews, it has come up in a lot of research I've done, and even Crutchfield rep recommended it when I talked to them.

The rep also said that I shouldn't have to worry about my cabinet vibrating with this little sub either, but if it does I can just add some isolation feet on it.

If the sub does vibrate my cabinet, would it be insane to put the sub to the SIDE of my cabinet? That would mean it wouldn't be between where my two bookshelf speakers are... but that's the best I could do since I cannot put it behind or in front of my little Ikea Kallax cabinet.

@grislybutter my new cartidge for my MP-150 should be here tomorrow. I'm popping it on and ensuring my tonearm adjustments immediately, then going to toss something like early Dream Theater on to see if things sound different.

sweet! Enjoy the new cartridge :)

@vrikkian to the side should be perfectly fine. 

Google "subwoofer crawl". Bass is somewhat omnidirectional so putting it between the main speakers is often not the best position for the room.

@travelinjack got my sub in. Definitely need to crawl around on the floor to find the best spot. My wife is going to look at me like I'm crazy. 

@vrikkian if she's anything like my wife then looking at me like I am crazy is nothing new.

SVS 3000 Micro – a great choice, fast and punchy. You might consider adding an isolation platform to mitigate noise, as you were initially concerned. Enjoy.

pair of restored AR3a’s near you

think of them as the smallest big speaker, easy to have refinished if you love them.

put them on stands, tilted back, toed-in: rear level controls for tweeter and mid range like my AR2ax’s which have 10" woofers, the AR-3’s have 12" woofers

"The Acoustic Research AR-3a Loudspeaker:

The AR-3a is a 3-way, full-range, 4-ohm acoustic-suspension loudspeaker—technically a bookshelf speaker for very sturdy bookshelves—which includes the well-known AR 12-inch acoustic-suspension woofer and dome midrange and tweeter drivers, based on the original AR-3.

The AR-3a was designed by Chuck McShane and Roy Allison of Acoustic Research, Inc., and the speaker was introduced at the New York High Fidelity Music Show in October, 1967. The basic design goals of the AR-3a were originally established in 1965-1966 by AR cofounder Edgar Villchur, with the objective of improving the already excellent off-axis dispersion of the renowned AR-3. The result was a speaker containing one of the widest and most uniform midrange and treble dispersion of any forward-facing loudspeaker ever designed for home sound reproduction.

The acoustically sealed, heavily braced (nine internal braces screwed and glued to the inside of the cabinet) and critically damped (the "Q" of the AR-3a is 0.9 - 1.0) AR-3a enclosure volume is 1.7 cu. ft., which is optimal for the 41-43 Hz resonance frequency, and the woofer’s suspension restoring force ratio is approximately 85% acoustic and 15% mechanical, far greater than nearly all current consumer loudspeakers using the a/s design. For this reason—and the basic design of the motor system in the AR woofer—the AR-3a has much lower harmonic distortion than any conventional, current-design loudspeaker of a comparable size. Julian Hirsch measured the woofer’s harmonic distortion at a power level ten-times higher than usual test input voltages, and the distortion in the AR-3a’s woofer was under 9% at 20 Hz, setting a new standard of low distortion, especially at this high-power testing.

The woofer used in this pair of AR-3a speakers has a large 9.6 lb Alnico-5 magnet assembly, cast-aluminum frame and a long-throw, 2-inch heavy copper voice coil with a linear excursion of 5/8-inch and a maximum physical excursion of 1.2 inches. The midrange driver has a 1½-inch treated-cloth dome (hemispherical) diaphragm with 1½-inch copper voice coil on an aluminum former assembly. The midrange driver is critically damped with fiberglass pads under and above the dome assembly itself. The magnet assembly is a large ferrite unit. The AR-3a tweeter uses a ¾-inch treated-paper dome diaphragm—similar to the original AR-3 phenolic-dome tweeter—suspended by urethane-polymer foam pieces in the outside portion of the voice coil with a layer of clear butyl-rubber sealing the outside of the magnetic gap. The magnet assembly is ferrite. The drivers have LCR crossover frequencies of 575 Hz and 5,000 Hz.

The speaker’s impedance ranges from 2.7 – 4.9 ohms, and the speaker is approximately 0.5% efficient, meaning that an amplifier capable of at least 30-50 watts-per-channel into 4 ohms is the minimum suitable power. The AR-3a physical dimensions are 14” x 25” x 11-3/8.” The AR-3a’s net weight, each, unboxed, is 54 lbs., and in the double shipping carton 64 lbs gross."

Ignore any of these people recommending something as ridiculous as upgraded cables and power cords.

Back here in reality, where science triumphs over snake oil marketing, I think you should start by looking at your room acoustics before buying any new gear.

Ignore the dullards who tell you cables don’t matter because of science. They know nothing about science and are too dumb to try something.
I note below where you can borrow cables to try out. 
 

Your equipment would benefit from good cables. You have entry level high end gear. You don’t mention what you are using for cables.

start with speaker cables. I will recommend kimber kable 4tc for your setup.

contact thecableco.com.
they will let you borrow a bunch of cables for a small fee (that’s put towards purchase). They may recommend other cables in your price range. Borrow and try them. Very worth it.

@sudnh I use Blue Jean cables for both speakers and interconnects. I've read many times they are not low end, but I'm also not spending hundreds of bucks on cables. 

Is there a brand you would recommend me try that is also "entry level high end" that isn't a laughable price?

I say this because 90% of thr cable threads I've read say most of the times it's snake oil. 

I'm interested in the times it's not. 

OP,

I recommend DHLabs interconnects and cables as a reasonable cost quality interconnect. I have these around a quality connectors when I get a new piece of equipment and want to spend the first six months with the new component, getting it broken in and getting to know the sound. 

Blue jeans are budget interconnects ... low end, often marginally better or not at all than consumer. I tried them to see just to see how they sounded. I have nearly fifty years of experience in high end audio. You can see my systems under my user ID. Everyone's system is different so the impact on the sound quality is highly variable. The difference in high end wires increases as the sensitivity of your system goes up. Typically the rule of thumb is think of spending 10% or so the value of your system. More or less can be appropriate. 

If you are reading cable threads that 90% of the time say it snake oil. You are reading the wrong threads. This is categorically wrong. 

First off anyone who says cables don’t make a difference is because they dont have a system revealing enough to hear it. And if this is true about yours then definitely don’t waste your money. Focals are very revealing but Macintosh and Cambridge (and I’m a fan of what Cambridge does and offers for the price) however are right on that edge where cables may or may not matter for you, use your best judgment if you think your system is fully open as oppose to veiled. In my system I hear differences in every cable I’ve swapped. But let’s be honest, they are waaaaay over priced. I had my Silver XLRs hand made from a gentleman in Australia, I don’t know if he’s even around anymore. But I have a solution, make your own!!! Im making a pair for my subs bcs I couldn’t stomach spending another $1k on cables. Supplies cost about 200-300 and you couldn’t get this quality under several thousands from any manufacturers selling high end cables. Plenty of step by step videos on YT for making your own interconnects and speakers. Its alot easier than you realize. As far as power cables I’ve never tried swapping out or upgrading so my opinion isnt worth much other than I’m less optimistic on the effects of different power cords. Anyways hope this helps

@ghdprentice 

I took a look at DH. The prices are not terrible, but they have multiple cables for what type of sound you want. I am not that well versed in sound to know if I want ones that are warm, emphasis highs, etc.

I think cables are a water I shouldn't wade into without knowing what I'm doing.

So, if are talking about  speaker cable, for instance, the Q-10 looks like a good choice.

In general, your Focal speakers are going to be a little hot on the top end, so you don’t want to get too fast and detailed. I’d stay in the middle to warm and natural to make sure you get the most musical / natural sound out of your system.

Yeah I'm another guy with Cathedral ceiling .Your system seems fine ,sit back and enjoy.I like the set up I have and the speakers playing out over the balcony. It fills the room with sound and I feel like I'm at a concert. 

@ghdprentice I appreciate your recommendation on speaker cable. Do you have a good recommendation for interconnects?

You have some excellent equipment.
I live in a townhome as well, and my stereo sits in a 15ft x 20ft open area to a dining room. The ceilings are 25ft high.
Because of budget and space limitations I went with an integrated amp setup. I have separate DAC and steamer setups.
I have curtains in back of where I sit so minimized reflection from the windows in back of me. I appreciate your sutuation. Amazingly, the sound is great here!
I suspect my sound would be better in a dedicated room with four walls and a lower ceiling , but for now, this is the best I can do.

My suggestion, besides room treatments, is get a Furman with SMP.   I did the apartment lifestyle most of my life and Furman always cleaned up the sound.

Air Matrix, sounds about right. I trust these guys. Over twenty years ago I used to call up and talk to the founder. Since then he died and his brother took over (last I heard). I suspect the Air Matrix Cryo may be worth it... but I have not tried them. Just on the basis of my experience with them would I trust that the additional cost is worth it.

@vrikkian

thats why I suggested borrowing cables from thecableco.com.
you should find out for yourself what is true or not.

a poster after me suggest DHLabs cables. They are also good but a different sound signature than Kimber Kable.

ask the folks at thecableco about DHLabs cables as well.

you really gotta try it, I suggest.

Would love it you report back here after

trying a few different borrowed cables.

It was a Stratocaster with a whamy bar

I live in a small apartment and have similar limited placement issues.  I have a large LP collection (housed in IKEA Expedit) and recently moved the LPs out of the listening room to a small bedroom in place of a smaller IKEA Kallax and lower speaker stands.  The change yielded huge benefits and added more room around the speakers and now it sounds like an entirely different system.  Go check out my system here for the pics

 https://www.audiogon.com/systems/9905

@vrikkian Perhaps you can make a similar change that doesn’t cost anything but a little time to move things around?

I'd agree with the recommendation for room acoustics, there are very attractive diffusers and absorption panels these days......they even can use your own pictures or art for panels.

Give GIK acoustics a call, have your room dimensions handy, and see what they might suggest.