What's the weak link in my system?


     I've pieced together the best budget system I could afford over the years but I'm just not thrilled with the sound I'm getting. Can anyone help me identify the weakest link (s) in my system so I can upgrade? I only have the budget to upgrade one piece at this time. I'm most interested in listening to vinyl.
Currently Configured:

Pro-ject Genie 1.3 Turntable w/ Sumiko Pearl Cartridge
Bellari VP 130 Phono Pre w/ Tung-Sol Tube & Replaced Power Supply  
Marantz CD 6006 CD Player
Parasound P3 Stereo Preamp
Parasound A23 Power Amp
PSB T6 Platinum Speakers
Bluesound Node
AKG K702 Headphones
Audioquest Daimondback Interconnects
Audioquest Rocket 33 Speaker Wire

Also Have:
NAD C235BEE Integrated AMP
Monitor Silver RS6 Speakers
Marantz SA8260 SACD Player (Used to sound great but doesn't work consistently - not sure if worth having repaired)
Musical Fidelity V Can Headphone Amp


So.... I think I have put together the best possible system configuration using what I have. What would be the weakest link / first to upgrade? Turntable? Phono Pre? Pre-Amp? Suggestions of products to upgrade to without breaking the bank? I've accumulated a bunch of stuff but I'm really a novice so any and all feedback would be greatly appreciated!   

jdm11
Did you remove the power conditioning?  If so, what were the results?  If not, why?
I've need been in your position before. If your like me you probably think to your self, it sounds good but I'm not feeling the magic. 
I don't think changing one component is going to make the difference your looking for. What you need to do is start swapping out your gear piece by piece with gear that is a level or two above what you have. I get it, when you don't have the cash it's difficult. But if you look for deals and swap it it slowly piece by piece, it's do-able.
 For example I'd lose the amp and preamp and get a Classe,  Belle's 150a ref, McCormack, krell, exposure jolida or bryston for your amp or pre. I actually just bought a jolida tube pre for 400 and I love it.

Next unload the marantz, I've personally never found a marantz cdp that I thought was more than Mediocre. Instead if you want to stay with traditional cdp I'd get a rega appollo, exposure, naim or if you can afford it an older wadia. NAD had a pretty decent little cdp a few years ago, I think it was the 542 or perhaps there silver line. The best sounding and cheapest digital source I found was musical Fidelity v90 USB  dac on a computer using Jriver software. It was wonderfully dynamic and detailed.
Your turn table could be switched for a higher grade rega, but I'm not really up to speed in LP so others would give better advice on your LP player.
Your cables I would change to at minimum audioquest Columbia or similar grade Tara labs or harmonic tech, for your interconnects. and For speaker cables I'd look at Dh labs for a cost effective good cable.
  As far as your Speakers go, I'm not familiar with those, but you may get the magic out of them after you change your electronics. If not then you need to audition a few until your zero in on what you like in a speaker. If it were me I'd be looking at a pair of thiels, sonus Faber, Dali,  something a long those lines. 
Let your ears be the true judge of what you like. Obviously your not hearing the magic as of now, so something's gotta change. 
As far as what order, typically people say start with the front end, but I'd start with what you can get the best deal on first. If there's a sweet Classe or Belle's 150a for a great price, I'd get it, I wouldn't wait around for the source to come up. Buy the stuff as it comes available.
In closing I really think you need to break out of the midfi stuff before you'll get the twinkle your looking for. As you start switching stuff out you'll start seeing the improvements. 
Best of luck

@jdm11 - I totally understand. I had to leave for several hours, but before I left I just saw how you described what your "problems" were and what you wanted:

- CDs sound a bit harsh and thin.

- I’m looking for a more "3D" kind of sound with depth and warmth but clarity as well (not muddled or fuzzy).

If these are your problems, there are several things I can think of that could help you move towards your goal:

- power cords. If you are still using the stock power cords for your equipment (cd, preamp, amplifier), then looking at an upgraded power cord can significantly improve things. I have recently found that the Audioquest power cords which use solid-core conductors are an excellent solution. I listened to the Audioquest NRG-4 model before I re-terminated the ends with Furutech rhodium connectors. The stock NRG-4 cable sounds very nice. It has a very solid sound with warmth and power. The solid-core conductors ensure that music impacts hit with authority and power. The gold-plated copper connectors give a nice warm sound. I would avoid any of the power cords with silver-plated connectors in your situation.  I have gone through testing with many different power cord material and geometries.  Solid-core conductors win every time.  Stranded wire power cords can sound good, but they just don't have the same "solid" audio character and they sound very "lo-fi" and "digital".  I have tested this with a very high end Furutech OCC copper power cord.  They just don't work as well as solid-core conductors.

Stock power cords usually use very small 18awg stranded conductors and may not even be copper. The stock cord connectors are also poor quality. These stock power cords can introduce a bright/harsh character to the sound.

- fuse upgrade. This is only a slight suggestion as fuses are definitely a controversial subject. I have also found that stock fuses will sound bright/harsh. Although, the right choice of fuse can be difficult to determine. I usually recommend Isoclean as being a very nice warm sounding fuse. This may end up being to warm for you as it can roll-off the high frequencies in some scenarios. You can try the Furutech/PADIS fuses, but expect a 200+ hour burn-in and these fuses can be very fast and revealing to the point where the system becomes too thin/lean/cold. There are other fuse choices. I would avoid the silver Hi-Fi Tuning fuses in your situation because you feel you have too much harshness/thin character.

- Interconnects. If you want, you can start backing off from the silver-plated elements. Your Audioquest Diamondback interconnects have excellent conductors, but they do have the silver-plated connectors. These will conduct electricity a lot faster than other elements and will contribute to the very bright/thin character. If you want to look into this, I would say to get the best Audioquest interconnects you can that still use gold-plated connectors. The Perfect Surface Copper and Foamed Polyethylene Insulation are excellent items in Audioquest cables.

- switching power supplies. All of your listed equipment uses linear power supplies, but you don’t describe power distribution. Are you using a single power strip or going to different outlets? If you have any device with a switching power supply connected to the same power strip or outlet, this can cause your audio to have a bright/harsh digital solid-state character. These can be things such as bluray players, satellite receivers, or anything else that has a switching power supply or wall-wart.

It's funny you say that inna you're right on the money; I got called away on an emergency short notice business trip a couple days ago and just got back tonight to find all this informaion. I''m so glad to see the discussion and thankful for the interest and all of these perspectives. I'm going to need some time to sort through it all! 
Post removed 
I noticed nobody commented on the Marantz SA8260 SACD player.  It looks to have a superior analog section when compared to your CD 6006.  You could look into having it repaired and possible get back a better source.  It depends on your threshold.  Would you spend $200?  $300?  more?  Also, it looks to be about 10 years old, so the mechanical of the transport has a higher risk of failure.  If the disc transport itself is a problem, it could be challenging for a technician to find a replacement.

@jdm11 - there are a lot of different opinions and suggestions posted here.  I do agree with several opinions that your source is very important.  One thing I have found is that if the sound quality or sonic signature of the waveform is not there from the beginning, there is nothing in the middle that will "bring back" that sound quality or refinement.  A $10,000 preamp with a $200 CD player may sound very good, but it is not going to magically "fix" the poor sound quality from the CD player.  That being said, you can spend more and more on a source that you get to a point where you are not able to hear the "differences" between two high priced sources.  One thing that could happen here is that your middle layers (cables / preamp) do not have enough resolution to allow you to hear the differences between sources.

I have taken a look at your equipment list.  Nothing really jumps out at me as a "weak link" because everything on the list is pretty equivalent.  I have absolutely no experience with turntables, so I could not comment on that.  Your Marantz CD 6006 is a fine source.  Marantz has excellent focus on power supply and also its discrete analog stages.  The Marantz equipment is voiced to be on the warm side, so if you like that sonic signature, it's great to stay with the Marantz.  The Parasound P3 looks to be a fine preamp design with good power supply.

As I said, I do not have experience with turntables, so the previous comments that the turntable / phono preamp should be upgrade might be correct.  That being said, I have noticed your PSB T6 speakers are 4 ohm.  Usually, speakers have a drop in their impedance curve where the impedance can reach as low as 2-3 ohms in the bass/midbass area.  This speaker is mostly higher than 4 ohm, but there is a drop to 3 ohm between the 250Hz and 700Hz region:

https://www.stereophile.com/content/psb-image-t6-loudspeaker-measurements

Based on this, I would say that your Parasound A23 amp -might- be somewhat of a weak link here.  If I had your system, I might look at upgrading to the larger Parasound A21 amp.  It has a power supply twice as large.  This may handle that low impedance area in the low midrange better than the A23.  Also, the A21 will just be a much more refined sound than the A23.

@willemj - I can see that you are definitely a person who is completely reliant on specs and you seem to have the traditional old school opinion that cables do not matter at all. That is perfectly fine. You are perfectly okay to disagree on certain points, but please do not drop down to name calling or insulting people because you do not agree with their points of view. This creates a situation where there is no objective discussion and the thread degrades into a flame war.

Please always try to approach things with an open mind. The traditional engineering approach that states "since a fact is written down as a fact, it is therefore always a fact" is not always correct. We are always discovering new things. Also, the engineer who believes that something is fact may not be able to hear the differences that certain audiophiles can hear.

I took a quick look at your ODAC. I would not say the specs are that great (for a DAC chip). The (now aging) ESS 9018 beats the specs of the ODAC. The ODAC states lowest THD at 0.0015% and DR of >112db. The ESS 9018 THD is 0.0001% (-120db) and DR of 129/135 db. However, this does not necessary mean that the ESS DAC will sound and be superior over your ODAC. There is a lot of missing stuff here such as I/V and LPF audio stages, which will work on further shaping the waveform that is just flat DC voltage injections from the DAC chip. We haven’t even talked about power supply (such as high capacitance, linear power supply filter, cable material, etc.). The ODAC is powered from USB cable, which is a bottleneck and, in most cases, will have a switching power supply from the transport (definitely switching if it is from a common computer).

The ODAC is also designed by NwAvGuy. I’m sure the design is fine, but I have read NwAvGuy’s posting on op amps and I don’t necessarily agree with all his points, especially his statement on the "MYTH" most op amps sound different. I have tested many different op amps in a highly ideal analog circuit. This means a high capacitance (2 x 10,000uf) linear power supply with R-Core transformer, fully discrete Class-A based voltage regulators, very high end electrolytic capacitors with minimal electrical resonance, OCC solid-core chassis wire for power cable, film-on-foil feedback capacitors, etc. etc. In all cases, I can definitely hear differences between op amps. And the specs on an op amp do not necessarily mean they will sound good. You can disagree here if you wish. However, for those of us who can sit down and hear the differences, this is a fact for us that there are differences in different elements.

Current  consensus among most audio gurus is that the most important part of a system is the first 6 feet out from the wall to eliminate noise coming from your power provider. Some deliver as much as 3% THD. I get on average 1,5% from APS here in Phoenix. After cleaning it up I enjoy less than 0.1%. 

Next, I’d consider getting the PS Audio DirectStream DAC, a Mac Mini to serve as your dedicated music streamer that will connect via USB to your DAC. Rip your CD’s to your Mac and LOSE CD player. At the same time, download the Pure Music player which overrides iTunes but attaches to iTunes and takes over as your music player. I have a 7.5K Krell CD Player and never listen to it as a bit perfect copy of a CD streamed from my Mac sounds BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL CD!  Make sure you get a Mac with a flash hard drive so there is no spinning /noise and use a good external HD to serve as your storage device for all of your music.  This confog will, 100%, sou d better than any vinyl and de,overs a virtual transcendent analog type experience since your files are converted to DSD in your DAC before output via analog to your preamp or receiver. 
I’m an audiophoole on a tight budget. After experimenting with speaker placement and carpet/furniture alternatives, here’s how I’d approach it; just my 2 cents.

I’d focus on vinyl first. A phono pre upgrade would not have to be very expensive. A Schiit Mani or Emotiva XPS-1. The XPS-1 is an especially good bargain and will let you play with cartridge loading. Experiment with different platter mat materials. Cork/rubber, acrylic, none, Teac Washi. Experiment with VTA. This is important: Phono cables should be designed to be phono cables! Any old RCA IC will not do. Usually 22-24 awg silver coated copper with the lowest capacitance possible. They don’t have to cost an arm and a leg. https://store.wireworldcable.com/collections/interconnects/products/luna-7-audio-interconnect-cable?... All this is intended to help you not give up on your TT unless absolutely necessary, because as pointed out, that will run into real money. Try a cartridge upgrade as a last resort; but before you spend that kind of dough, make sure it is also a good match for your dream TT/arm. None of the above would be wasted if you have to bite the bullet and get a new table.

Try to change one thing at a time. The experience may lead you to a common solution for CDs. I wish you well!

Jim
Dave,
Your argument is valid if more expensive sources made a difference, but not if they don’t. I am not quite sure where the minimum is exactly, and it may be wise to pay a bit extra to be on the safe side, but sonically perfect sources do not have to cost an arm and a leg anymore. See here for the specs of my usb DAC: https://www.jdslabs.com/products/39/odac-objectivedac/ Those are well beyond the hearing acuity of any human. That is the great benefit of technical progress. Perfection can be defined in relation to that human hearing acuity. There is no possible audible advance beyond that perfection, but such perfection is getting cheaper, and we are there. I admit to a kind of naughty pleasure in referring to the ultracheap Chromecast Audio, but it is indeed the best example of the progress we made, even if it does not measure perfectly (but almost). The good news is that at least for this part of the chain perfect audio is now within reach of all social classes, and not just to those who want to brag about their wealth. So to continue the bragging, they have to invent their alternative facts. I for one will not waste money on the advice of some spoonbenders, against the advice of the designer of my speakers, and against the advice of the designer of the original cd format. Did you actually read the Chromecast Audio test, or any of the other tests on that site? Is anything wrong with the test?
As for the plasma screen, my Quad speakers are dipoles so do not radiate sound to their sides. How else can you watch opera or ballet (or don’t you?). My experiences with live acoustic music do matter (and yes, I did sit in e.g. the Mariinski in St Petersburg) because they provide a yardstick.
There is one thing I forgot to mention about my system, and that is the house itself. It is a detached home in a quiet leafy suburb, and that is important, because detail resolution is obviously greatly impaired by background noise. So when it was designed we set about making sure it was as quiet as possible. Construction is concrete (also for the roof) and brick, and the heating and water piping system were designed to be as quiet as possible (no air heating or air conditioning, which we do not need/use here anyway). The same applies to our modern ultra quiet kitchen appliences. Ventilation openings to the outside are muffled, and the window glazing is specially sound deadening. These are cheap things to do when you build a house, but obviously hard to achieve afterwards. But they make a real sonic difference, comparable to listening in the middle of the night. Money much better spent than on cables or other quack stuff.
Agree with Handyman.  The front end is probably your weakest link - both analog and digital.  I owned the Bellari and found it lifeless. Did not keep it. Get a good solid state phono preamp, like a Dynavector DV-75, used. I prefer tubes, but good tube phono preamps are expensive. For digital get the best dac you can afford. Everything else should be ok.
There are so many things to consider. Always make your front end the best u can possibly afford. If it starts out crap, u can't hope for anything more at the end. Not saying your cart sucks, but invest in the very best u can. I had the preamp u are using and it sounded good for what it is. High current amps and good speakers are a must. I realize, this comment doesn't give u a lot to go on, just saying. As with women, the front and back end are a must. 
If you don't know ... then nothing is weak.    Once you hear something, you will know.
after months of torture in winter i found that sound improved greatly with the increase in the relative humidity in the room. Was generally about 20-30 % in winter, and around 50% in summer. so get a humidifier would be my advice. not only the stereo equipment itself but also all the furniture etc affects what you hear. obviously sound bounces off them. 

I have a budget system, too (WAY more budget than yours!). So maybe my experience will be useful.

I went with the advice I was getting, that the turntable and arm are the most important item in a vinyl playback system. Which meant replacing an old Technics with an old Thorens TD-160 (I told you it was a budget system).

Then I kept following the advice, which was to get as good a cartridge as you could afford. I was enjoying an old Grado with upgraded MZ8 stylus ($200 here in Canada!), which has a very attractive warmth and depth (as others have noted), but when a Linn ASAK came up for sale for $50, I bit.

Then I needed an MC preamp, so I bought a Pro-ject Phonobox S, but it was WAY too noisy. I found a Rotel receiver with an MC stage, for dirt cheap, so I am using this until I can afford a big ticket item like an AR tube phono stage (my Tannoys are bi-amped, with an old Electrohome SET amp powering the aluminum horn-loaded tweeters, and an old Nikko Alpha II powering the woofers. It sounds very nice.

So, long story short:

Best Turntable/arm you can afford
Best Cartridge/Preamp you can afford
Then the regular order - speakers, amps, accessories/room treatments

Hope that helps.

If somebody likes vinyl I wouldn’t suggest getting rid of it. I have some very good sounding vinyl that beats an equivalent digital source. 

In my reply above, I didn’t mention anything about cables because this is a controversial topic and the poster has a few purchases to make before looking at cables. at audio shows, I have attended seminars/demonstrations comparing cables worth $200 all the way to $8000 all from the same vendor and I heard differences between each cable. My thoughts were always, is it worth the upgrade for the price? I go for great cables that cost usually less than $1000 each. 

If if I was setting up a system I would wait to buy everything that you need in your room and bring in 5 or 6 different cable brands in your price range and do a cable shootout. It’s actually fun and then you can rest after your purchase knowing you bought the best cable that sounds best in your price range 
OP, a good example of a turntable to consider would be Rega or VPI

but if the room is taken care of as per the post above, I’d rip the CDs onto a mac mini or purpose designed storage system and get a good DAC, while paying attention to galvanic isolation - Schiit makes one called Eitr and it can be returned if there is no improvement

you have the best or one of the best $500 CD players from a few years ago, but that does not mean it is the best possible way to get digital sound from a CD to your pre-amp

also be sure you have the best recording/mastering of any music you care about

you have a very good system already so improvements in SQ will not be inexpensive
It is good that you listen to a lot of live music and especially that you enjoy your system. My point is only that you have little to no evident experience with any of the recent digital gear, nor cabling, so it is not helpful to post your opinions on those things. Looks like you could contribute quite a lot of good advice on the music threads...

As for turntables, I doubt that you will be effective at changing anyone's mind on that one way or the other, so why not give it a rest. 

The big flat piece of glass is the plasma TV you listed as part of your system.

Dave
Geoff, sorry about the spelling mistake - English is not my native language.

Dave, you made a philosophical mistake that is taught in undergraduate class. That is all I said.
Beyond that, I knew you would play the heads I win, tails you loose game. Still, that does not mean you are right. I know I will never convince you because science and the scientific method are irrelevant in your phantasy world, but here is a proper test of the Chromecast Audio: http://archimago.blogspot.nl/2016/02/measurements-google-chromecast-audio_27.html
As it so happens, I also listen to real live (acoustical) music, and I must say that on the main system the recorded version (if recorded well) comes pretty close, apart from the inevitably more limited dynamic range compared to a live symphony orchestra or choir. But then, we don't live in concert halls or churches.
Not sure what you mean by the piece of glass, but go and listen to a live classical concert, and you will discover that there is not that much soundstage and imaging going on either when you close your eyes.
Many here are not as students but as colleagues. I trust that you do not treat your colleagues as students, at least not with any success.

We have one thing in common: not proned to the upgrade virus, at least not for me in what I call the "Foundation System" (downstream of source).

Your sources and cables preclude confidence in your recommendations. Low resolution from the former leads to false perception regarding the latter.

Placing a big flat piece of glass between your speakers is a sure-fire way to kill imaging and soundstage, but perhaps your (now) unique and excellent speakers minimize that in your main system.

As long as you are happy, that’s what counts.

Dave
willemj wrote,

"Sure, if you want good audio you have to say goodbuy to the vinyl romance anyway."

goodbuy is almost certainly a Freudian slip of some kind. 

As I teach my students, the truthfulness of a statement does not depend on who is making it, (let alone on the content of their living room). However, I don’t mind. I have two serious systems:
1 main system in the large living room
Speakers: Quad ESL 2805 (at full range), with B&W PV1d subwoofer and Antimode 8033 room eq. Crossover at 33 Hz, and 4th order slope.
Amplifier: Quad 33/606-2 (both refurbished, of course). The pre amp had its input senstivities modified to match modern sources (this is very important).
Sources: a modest Panasonic BD player, a Panasonic Plasma TV, a Chromecast Audio.
Souces still connected but no longer used: Linn Sondek/SME/Shure V15iii turntable, and Quad FM3 tuner (I now use internet radio for its superior sound quality).
And for those of you who are interested in cables: ordinary heavy duty speaker cable and quality interconnects with Nakamichi connectors, put together by a pro audio engineer.
Upgrade plans include firstly a second sub for even smoother response, and perhaps a DSpeaker X4 pre amp for improved room eq and its inbuilt DAC (but maybe it will be an Oppo 205). The Quad 33 is getting a bit long in the tooth.

Secundary system in my 18 sq m study
Harbeth P3ESR as desktop speakers, raised to get the tweeter exactly at ear height (crucial for all dynamic speakers, and often overlooked).
Amplifier: Quad 405-2 (refurbished of course), input senstivity lowered by inline attenuators.
Volume control: Emotiva Control Freak
Source, desktop PC, with external ODAC usb dac.
Because the speakers still had a slight bass boost as a result of the proximity to the desk surface I equalized them a bit with the equalizer APO.

So as you can see I live by my conviction. Also, I am not one prone to the upgrade virus. My first system was QUAD esl57 with the 33/303 and that Linn SME combo and that was in the mid seventies. I later added a Philips cd player, subsequently replaced by a Marantz unit when we wanted a DVD player and similarly now the BD player. If and when there will be enough UHD video content, I will probably replace that with an Oppo 205 (perhaps also used as a pre amp). For years, the system in my study used the Rogers LS3/5a monitor, until I replaced it by the far better Harbeth P3ESR.
I do like having my tv screen attached to the stereo. I am not a home video buff, but I like better sound when I watch tv, and I think the video is an important part of the recorded opera/ballet experience. A good example is the magnificent Gergiev recording of the Ballets Russes at the Mariinski theater.

willemj,

With the confidence that you exude in your opinions on every topic, you should post your system on a Virtual Systems page so we can all see what you have chosen and your experience level. Short of that, we can only hope that your advice is taken with some caution.

Dave

Moving speakers around trying to find the best locations is like trying to solve 3 simultaneous equations in 4 unknowns. You'll never be able to find the absolute best locations without the out of phase track on the XLO Test CD. The best you can do is find local maximums. This is one of the few cases I can think of where measurements are superior to listening.

Sure, if you want good audio you have to say goodbuy to the vinyl romance anyway.  However, if you really want to hang on to your vinyl setup, you can also do the equalization in hardware.
Great advice on the digital equalization. Then you can just throw your turntable and LP collection away. lol

Dave
As for speaker placement and room modes, the simplest way to procede is to use REW (room equalization wizard, a free software package, see here: https://www.roomeqwizard.com/) and a cheap calibrated microphone to measure in room response. I am sure you will be horrified. Next, move the speakers around and add some rugs etc, as per advice here, to see if you can improve the response. If you want to improve the response more, you will need to use a parametric equalizer, either in software or in hardware. See here for a software one: https://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/

As others have said, focus on speaker placement, listening position, and possibly placing equipment stand to one side of listening position as opposed to between speakers. Treat the room using acoustic panels behind speakers, at primary reflection points on sidewalls, and behind listening position. Use bass traps in corners. GIK and ATS Acoustics are two companies that can help with this. They offer much information/products online.

After addressing the above, then consider upgrading your components. I agree with those that consider your preamp/amp/speaker combination to be fine and feel they would support improvements on both your digital and analog sources. Once you have optimized your room/system placement start another thread regarding each source.That said, my thoughts are to consider using a separate DAC to support the CD player as a transport as well as the Bluesound Node. With vinyl, given that we are talking table/arm/cartridge/phonostage the upgrade path becomes more complicated, and can be more expensive. I think I would start with the cartridge, then look at the phonostage.

Good luck with whatever avenue you choose. 
Thanks so much everyone I really appreciate the time and thoughtfulness that went into these responses. I'm getting a ton of great information. 
Since you enjoy spinning vinyl and have a good collection, upgrade your TT and cart. You can do much better than the entry-level Project, for starters, it doesn’t seem to have much vibration control. You need a solid platform or base (plinth) to isolate the rig from vibration in the room and from the TT itself. Some TT's use a suspension system, some use a solid base with bracing and damping.

In the mean time, I agree that you need to set up your speakers and the room correctly. If music sounds congested, the speakers are not positioned well and you could use some absorbtion or diffusion on the wall behind the speakers. This will result in a more focused image.
Look thru the Virtual Systems section at how our members place their room treatments. Also read thru the GIK site for info...and you don’t have to use every panel they suggest. Also, you can make your own panels.

http://www.gikacoustics.com/basics-room-setup-acoustic-panels-bass-traps/


lots off good suggestions here but one that seems to be missing is your phono stage the Bellari is good for a starter system but from what I've heard lacks quite a bit. you should take the next step up there something like the IFI Iphono2 ($499)or similar will give you much improvement and more flexibility.  if your budget allows think along the lines of a used Manely Chinook. I have not heard your Cart but maybe a entry MC would liven things up there are some good ones under $500 like many of the Audio-technica's.
You scare the man with big $$$, though I know what you are talking about. I'll just say what I have. Some will think it is all junk, though in fact it is not, it sounds very acceptable with enough room for improvement. Everything except the cartridge was bought used:
Nottingham Analogue Spacedeck/Spacearm - $1350.
Goldring 1042 MM cartridge - $375 from the UK.
Acoustech PH-1 phono stage - $650.
Purist Audio Colossus cable from phono to integrated amp - $330.
This set-up is hard to find used but I took my time.
many variables and not enough info. how big of a room do you have? room treatment? speakers/listening chair using the 1/3 ratio for positioning?
if the room and system is setup, i'm assuming you asking what is your weak link because you want to replace the equipment, if this is correct, how much do you want to spend?

IMO, sorry to say, but both your analog and digital equipment are your weakest links. For digital, ALL cd players under few thousands of $$$ sound terrible unless they are specifically built with a very good quality dac, even the oppo is compromised compared to a decent cd player/music server/mac mini with a nice external dac. I used to own a really nice wyred 4 sound dac2 dsd dac which was < $2000, but when I spent 3x that for my new dac, performance increased accordingly. I would suggest at 1st using your cd player and buy a very good dac with the best digital cable you can afford.

I don't agree with previous comments about analog sounding compressed, just the opposite if you get a nice analog setup. But there is a price you have to spend to get great sound from analog, its not cheap. I spent almost 3x more for my analog setup than my digital setup and when the vinyl album is mastered well, it sounds better than straight redbook digital. DSD/MQA sound as good as good analog but it costs more to get this capability from your digital setup. This would entail getting a music server or pc/mac server setup to stream MQA or read DSD ripped music.
IMO, you will need to spend many times the cost of your digital setup to get equivalent sound quality from analog. A $300 cartridge, $100 tonearm isn't going to cut it. You will need to replace all of your analog not just 1 piece. If you replace just the tt, what about the arm? cartridge? you can put a $300 cartridge on a $50,000 turntable and it will still sound like a $300 analog setup. If you start with the cartridge, you are limited with the tonearm you are using, so you won't be able to get a GOOD cartridge. you could spend the $$$ and get a good tonearm and cartridge and use your existing tt base/platter, but you are limited what type of arm will fit your tt. If on a tight budget, look at the vpi scout or vpi prime. You can get a nice ortofon/soundsmith/grado cartridge that you can afford and still have room to upgrade the cartridge at a later time, these turntable packages are that good. I just upgraded to the VPI 3d arm for almost $3000 and it was a large improvement over the vpi metal arm i was using prior, so every little piece can make a big difference.
You can get a used external dac with dsd/mqa and even with a music server capabilities built in used for a couple thousand $$$.
Same goes for a used VPI setup. The grado sonata cartridge is a nice entry level piece for around $500-$600, or a soundsmith zephyr or carmen cartridge for the $$$ are excellent. 
Good luck.
There are very notable exceptions re: power conditioners but agree with sbrownmw that your Furman may not be doing your system's SQ any favors...

Dave
Every power conditioner I've tried has killed dynamics and openness in my system except the Emotiva CMX-2 DC Blocker and Filter. I've tried Furman, PS Audio, UPS units and a DYI one. The CMX- blocks most of the DC on my line and all of my sources plus preamp are plugged into wiremold power strips and then into the CMX-2. My amp is plugged directly into the wall. You can get the CMX-2 for $100 from Amazon with a 30 day trial (free shipping both ways with Prime). I would try your system first without the Furman. 
Since you have invested in good vinyl and have been at it for good long while imo another cartridge would be a logical step. I had the pearl. Nice cart but there are better for a not unreasonable amount to use with your table. I like Grado but that's me. Certainly warm no problem with depth but that's a room speaker thing ime. 
Experimenting with speaker placement and (not or) getting your room acoustics improved should be your priority right now IMO.

Someone here started a thread on trying placing household pillows on the floor. Not a long term solution to be sure and make sure the wife is not home, but worth a try to see since you have a bare wood floor right now. Gotta get that wood floor between the speakers and you covered even if with just a moderately priced rug and a heavy pad underneath.

Lots of good feedback here on GIK brand acoustical treatments for bang for the buck and I know from experience that SR stuff is great, if pricey. If you are handy and willing, you can make almost identical products to the GIK yourself and save a ton of money. I can tell you how if you wish as I did just that several years ago. You can see my bass traps on my Virtual System page. One warning: do not be pressured into buying a ton of absorption products all at once. Start with some quality bass traps like the GIK Tri-traps and some economical panels for the first reflection points on the side walls. You will be amazed.

I hate to write this, but based on recent experience, after room acoustic treatment and given your current source situation, I would recommend that you invest in a good computer audio setup. A good DAC and music streamer (not PC/MAC) can sound pretty fantastic.

Don’t know your financial limits, but a used DAC in the $700-$1000 range to pair up with your Bluesound Node and a subscription to Tidal Hi-Fi would be a great start. Read up on DACs at computeraudiophile.com and digitalaudioreview.com (Jon Darko) before buying. Pay more attention to the input filtering, analog section, and power supply (preferably external) than the specific DAC chip/DAC section at this price point. 

I still ultimately prefer my TT but big investment is required to get excellent sound, so take inna’s advice there.

Good luck to you,
Dave

+2 for Dave

Concentrate on the room and setup before replacing any equipment. I know it's difficult to use spikes on hardwood floors, but hopefully you at least have something on the bottom of the speaker cabinet, rather than sitting directly on the floor. Do you have an area rug on the floor between you and the speakers? If not, get one.

Problem with big turntable upgrade is that soon after that you will want to follow up with cartridge, phono stage and tonearm cable upgrades. But if you are thinking about it, I would not upgrade either cartridge or phono stage right now, especially the latter.
Thank you Frank I just read your post. I had never heard of those before I'll check them out! 
Thank you Dave. I don't; my disposition is naturally diplomatic. Listening room is 18 x 22 with hardwood flooring and one door. I haven't installed any acoustical treatment so the walls and ceiling are sheetrock. I also have experimented some with speaker placement but the link posted by cd318 above is an article suggesting specific spacing / placement for the PSBs which I'll try. Good to hear the feedback on the preamp / amp speaker from you and loomisjohnson and by inference from inna as well as the vote of confidence in the Marantz from willemj. That helps narrow it down to take a harder look at turntable, phono pre, speaker placement and acoustical treatments. Any suggestions?      
+1 for Dave ...

The room should come first. Get it dialed in. A good place to start is with a ten-pack of SR's HFT's and install as directed. 

Frank