Verastarr
... WHAT POWER CORD(S) ARE PLAYING IN YOU SYSTEM TODAY?
HELLO TO ALL...
Not really a discussion - more like a survey: prompted by a recent article about Power Cords that showed up in my browser. PLEASE NO DETAILS: NO IN-DEPTH REVIEWS OF ATTRIBUTES, WISH I HADs AGAIN, or WANT TO TRYs -
just component (CD, PRE, DAC, INT, POWER, SPEAKER) and Mfg Brand, and model (if known) and length
mine: CD: GOLDMUND /JOB SWEET CORD; 2-1/2 METER
INT: JOB INT: PS AUDIO XSTREAM SC STATEMENT, 1 METER
Not really a discussion - more like a survey: prompted by a recent article about Power Cords that showed up in my browser. PLEASE NO DETAILS: NO IN-DEPTH REVIEWS OF ATTRIBUTES, WISH I HADs AGAIN, or WANT TO TRYs -
just component (CD, PRE, DAC, INT, POWER, SPEAKER) and Mfg Brand, and model (if known) and length
mine: CD: GOLDMUND /JOB SWEET CORD; 2-1/2 METER
INT: JOB INT: PS AUDIO XSTREAM SC STATEMENT, 1 METER
171 responses Add your response
Mostly Nordost mid level offerings. I spent years poking fun at the whole idea of ridiculously high priced wires and still feel that way for the most part. The big change for me was when I swapped out stock cords on my amps and I had to eat crow. I was eager to tell my buddy who brought them over that I heard no difference but I did. Bass was much fuller, highs were less grainy were the 2 most pronounced differences I heard without question.I had to rerun room correction to balance the sound again as the bass was so much fuller. Not bloated or muddy, just louder and more prevalent. Scott |
I'm not sure if one strand of copper is better than another, but what I do care about how well a power cable is shielded. I've have had some pricey cables in the past but they did not pass this simple voltage meter test as described here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVn7UsaDmcQ I since sold those expensive cables and went exclusively with Pangea for this reason. They sound fine as well. |
Power cords definitely change the sound. There is no objective neutral cord to be found. What is good for your system may not be for another. So which is the best cord? If you only had a different speaker, or amplifier? The one you just got rid of would have been the best. If you have the money? Experiment with the time you have to do so. |
For the sake of the survey (device, cable, length): Velodyne VDR-12 - Audio Sensibility Testament – x2 2.0m / 1.5m Bryston BIT-15 - Nordost Frey 2 2.0m Esoteric K-01X - Nordost Frey 2 2.0m Bryston 7B-SST2 - Nordost Heimdall 2 – x2 2.0m Bryston BHA-1 - Wireworld Electra 7 2.0m Esoteric G-03X - Wireworld Electra 7 1.5m Marantz 8802A - Wireworld Electra 7 1.5m |
Cullen Cable Crossover II - Nuprime IDA-16 integrated amp Cullen Cable Crossover II - APC H-15 power conditioner Cullen Cable Avius C7 - Blusound Node 2 Cullen Cable Avius - Arcam A19 integrated All 2 meter length http://http//www.cullencable.com/ Cheers, Scott |
For what it's worth, I leaned pretty strongly towards the cables are all the same camp just because it seemed logical. The power cord I mentioned above is the single biggest improvement I've made in my system. When it arrived, the set was off, and I just switched it out cold and powered up. My immediate reaction was "no way, what??" Powered down, changed to the old cord, powered up again and could not believe the difference. L. |
BONE STOCK: BlueSound Node 2i = stock IEC Power Cable Yamaha CD Player = stock attached #16 AWG Power Cord AR "The Turntable" = stock attached #16 AWG Power Cord NAD 7220PE Receiver (Used as Pre) = stock attached Power Cord Emotiva XPS-2 = Stock #12AWG? IEC Power Cable They are ALL quite suitable for the loads that are carried to each component, and are bundled / physically separated from other low-signal-level wiring. I find AC Power here in the Milwaukee area to be solid, well-regulated, and reliable. |
